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Title: Present state of Van Diemen's Land : comprising an account of its agricultural capabilities with observations on the present state of farming &c. &c. pursued in that colony, and other important matters connected with emigration / by Henry Widowson.

Author: Widowson, Henry.

Published: S. Robinson, W. Joy, J. Cross and J. Birdsall, 1829

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London Published by S. Robinson, Chapter House Pafsage, 1829.

PRESENT STATE

OF

VAN DIEMEN'S LAND;

COMPRISING AN ACCOUNT OF ITS

AGRICULTURAL CAPABILITIES,

WITH

OBSERVATIONS ON THE PRESENT STATE OF FARMING,

&c. &c.

PURSUED IN THAT COLONY:

AND OTHER IMPORTANT MATTERS

CONNECTED WITH

EMIGRATION.

DEDICATED, BY PERMISSION

TO

THE RIGHT HONOURABLE LORD ALTHORP.

BY HENRY WIDOWSON,

LATE AGENT

TO THE VAN DIEMEN'S LAND AGRICULTURAL ESTABLISHMENT.

London:

S. ROBINSON, CHAPTER-HOUSE PASSAGE, ST. PAUL'S;

W. JOY, ST. PAUL'S CHURCH YARD; J. CROSS, HOLBORN; AND

J. BIRDSALL, NORTHAMPTON.

1829.

TO THE RIGHT HONOURABLE
LORD VISCOUNT ALTHORP,
&c. &c. &c.

MY LORD,

IN availing myself of your lordship's permission to dedicate to you the following pages, I feel much pleasure in the reflection, that the facts narrated will derive an additional recommendation to their perusal, from the knowledge that they are sent forth under the auspices of a nobleman, whose zeal, talent, and indefatigable attention, are ever conspicuous in defending the rights and interests of British Agriculture; whether with reference to the many Societies of which your lordship is the distinguished Patron and President, or in the exalted, though not more important, character of a British Senator.

I am aware that the subjects treated of in the present volume, might have been handled with more ability; but this, I hope, will not be deemed a very material blot in the work, when I add, that I have promulgated no opinions which did not occur to me as a practical farmer, nor indulged in any descriptions which were not strictly faithful. And if I shall be considered as having attained the object I have in view, namely, that of diffusing new information by which the science of Agriculture may be promoted, and my brother farmers enlightened, upon the capabilities of a distant, but rapidly thriving country, I shall be satisfied that my labour has not been in vain.

I have the honor to be,

My Lord,

Your Lordship's most grateful

And most obedient Servant,

H. WIDOWSON,

Harrowden Cottage,

Wellingborough.

INTRODUCTION.

OF all our ultra-marine possessions, vast and valuable as many of them are, no one excites so much interest, in the proper sense of the word, as our different settlements in NEW SOUTH WALES, and VAN DIEMEN'S LAND. They are not rich in mines, sugar canes, cochineal, or cottons; but they are blessed with a climate which, though different in different places, is yet, on the whole, favourable to the health, comfort, and industry of Europeans; they exhibit an almost endless extent of surface, various as to aspect and capability, but, taken together, suited in an extraordinary degree to the numerous purposes of rural economy—the plough and spade, the dairy and sheep walk. The emigrant has not to wage hopeless and ruinous war with interminable forests, and impregnable jungle; as he finds prepared by the hand of nature, extensive plains ready for the ploughshare, and capable of repaying manifold in the first season. He is not poisoned by pestiferous swamps, nor frightened from his purpose, by beasts of prey and loathsome reptiles; he is not chilled by hyperborean cold, nor scorched and enfeebled by tropical heat; and he is not separated from his kind, nor hardened in his heart by the debasing influence of open or concealed slavery.

It is true, that he is surrounded by those who have the brand of crime and punishment upon them, and who are, therefore, to a certain extent infamous; but he has the satisfaction of knowing that it is his duty and interest to improve, not contribute to, the farther degradation of these fallen beings: he feels, or ought to feel, that it is his high privilege to be a reformer, aye, and a radical reformer, of his fellow creatures; that it becomes him, not to strengthen and perpetuate the fetters of physical slavery, but to break the chain and cast away the cords of moral bondage. To turn such delinquents from the errors of their ways, will lighten labour and sweeten enjoyment—it must be a source of the most perfect pleasure, and has the promise of better and more enduring blessings, than any which earthly possessions can bestow.

It is curious and consolatory to contemplate these our possessions on the opposite side of the globe, in the "uttermost parts of the earth," as they are at present, and as they were only a few years ago. The first settlement was literally a "den of thieves," into which were thrown the outcasts of the earth —those who were the disgrace and bane of society. IIow many of them have been reclaimed we have not the means of knowing; but if there were only one, whatever the political economist may think, in the opinion of the philanthropist and Christian, the labour and cost were amply repaid. Since that period, in spite of prejudice, mismanagement, and occasional misrule, especially at the beginning, and notwithstanding the opposition which the bad habits, of the convicts would naturally make to improvement, the advance of those settlements, in skill, industry, and enterprise, towards future greatness, is really astonishing. It would be inconsistent with the place and the occasion, to speculate regarding what they are destined to become, but they form a land which appears full of promise. The seed has been sown, shone upon, and watered, and in some measure cultivated; and if the cultivation be diligently and wisely continued, the produce will be great and beneficial to mankind.

There can be little sympathy with those who, thinking they perceive, in the rapidly increasing population of these settlements, the elements of an independent power, like that of North America, would have us leave them to themselves. For, if it be a deadly error, according to the code of political economists, to increase the number and enlarge the happiness of human beings, the evil is already done. The great body of inhabitants in New Holland, and Van Diemen's Land, possess the moral spirit, moral habits, and moral prospects, which they or their fathers carried from Great Britain—"the leaven which leaveneth the whole lump" —they will continue to cultivate their fields, and enjoy their fruits; they will continue to increase and multiply; they will continue to extend the language, the feelings, and the spirit of the institutions of the mother country, and thereby extend the means and attainments of human happiness, in spite of all calculations and bodings to the contrary.

But granting that such separation should take place, as in the course of years and events it probably will, what is there in it that we should so much dread? Besides, is there nothing to console and cheer us in the distant anticipation of such an event? Is the good already done, and to be done, of no avail in such a prospect? Are the thousands of beings, rescued from utter wretchedness, and stopped in their full career of infamy and ruin, to be rendered useful, perhaps finally reclaimed, and made fit to be citizens of "a better country"—are such things less than a feather in the balance? But what is the balance? Utility, say the political economists. Well, then, let it be utility, if they cannot look at a higher standard; and the question shall be, are such measures useful? We do not tremble for the independence of these "islands of the seabecause, if we continue in our present state of constitutional mind, and retain our present feelings, we shall be prepared for such an event when it comes; because, setting aside all questions of duty, as they regard humanity, we believe it to be our interest to encourage ships, colonies, and commerce; and because we do not think that it would be either disgraceful or dangerous to Great Britain, to add such another member to the great social family, as the United States of America. Notwithstanding their season of anger and undutifulness, they are an offspring to be proud of. Compare them with their neighbours in South America—the political slaves who were to be emancipated and renovated by the pure spirit of republicanism. What are they? The slaves of other masters. The slaves of ignorance, superstition, and error—weak and wretched, while their neighbours are strong and happy, Yet they are equally republicans. Whence, then, comes the difference? From the pure, healthful, invigorating spirit, which we infused into our Trans-atlantic children, and which the change in the form of government did not materially alter. And shall we fear to raise up such another race, that they may join us, by precept and example, to teach others the benefits which we enjoy?

The writer of these pages has been induced to submit them to the public, from the following considerations.

In 1825, he went to Van Diemen's Land in the capacity of Agent to an Agricultural Society established there: a situation for which he deems himself in some measure qualified. In the course of his duty he had the opportunity of examining all the located lands in the settlement, and he availed himself of the opportunity thus presented, with more zeal, if not with more critical accuracy, than a person of different habits could be expected to do. With him it was a matter of pleasure to investigate the capabilities, peculiarities, advantages, and disadvantages of this new world, and to compare them with similar and different things at home, as regards agriculture, grazing, and other affairs of the field. On these matters he flatters himself that he may give bis opinion with some confidence, as the opinion of a practical man. He likewise was enabled to examine and report upon a large portion of unlocated land, by being employed to form a new settlement at Ringaroome River; and his means of judging were farther extended, by suffering shipwreck off Cape Portland, and thereby being detained some time on the North-east part of the island. Even from this untoward accident, he hopes he has derived the advantage of having obtained useful local knowledge.

It is the author's object to state as plainly and shortly as possible, the facts of which he thus became possessed, for the benefit of future settlers. The time is past when the man who travelled to a distant region, might, on his return, write a splendid fiction, and call it a true and faithful account of what he had seen, done, and suffered. People are not now in the mood to be told of El Dorados; of cities, the gates of which are gold, and the pavements silver;

"Of Anthropophagi,
And men whose heads beneath their shoulders grow."

The traveller must either tell truth, or suffer exposure and disgrace.

A great deal has been published on New South Wales; but little, as yet, of Van Diemen's Land, and nothing lately. Mr. Curr's account of the set tlement is good and correct, I believe, as far as it goes; but so much has been done since, and the face of things is so much changed, that the emigrant can derive little information from it. To supply the defect—bring down the condition of the settlement to the present time—and communicate the essential information requisite to the emigrant, is the aim of the author in this publication.

Between the settlements in Van Diemen's Land and New South Wales there is, and no doubt will continue to be, if both continue to prosper, a spirit of rivalry. This, if it be manifested by endeavours at outstripping each other in the improvement of their respective conditions, individually and socially, will be a mutual benefit; but if it assume the form of detraction and recrimination, it must be injurious; inasmuch as it will have the effect, in the end, of hurting the character of all, and of stirring up hatred and alienation when there ought to be affection and sympathy. In Mr. Cunninghams work on New South Wales, the author is sorry to see the working of this spirit, in attempting to elevate the character of that colony, and thereby disparaging Van Diemen's Land. Each has its peculiar advantages and disadvantages, and it would require a great deal both of observation and impartiality, to strike the balance between them. The former has a warmer climate, and therefore its vegetable productions approach more nearly those of tropical regions; while the latter is more perfectly healthy, and is better fitted for the maturation of the grains and fruits of our native land. There is in it, in short, more of the character of home; and it is surprising, after having traversed half the globe, to find, when culture has done its work, things so like those which we left. In justice, however, to Van Diemen's Land, it ought to be said that it is comparatively in its infancy, and therefore comparatively unknown; that where it is equally known, it is generally preferred, and that in consequence, public opinion is now beginning to set strongly in its favour.

But it is not the author's object to tempt those who can live well at home, to go either to Van Diemen's Land, or New South Wales, or any where else, beyond the limits of their own happy island. He has no interest in either, except in so much as they may become subservient to the comfort of his countrymen, and therefore has no inducement to become a thorough-paced partisan and panegyrist. He speaks of things as he found them—a mixture of good and evil, such as are found, though not in the same proportions, every where. Van Diemen's Land is not a Paradise, where we may eat and drink of the abundance of nature, without the sweat of the brow, or some equivalent sacrifice. The "thistly curse" is not repealed, and the man who migrates there, expecting to live and prosper without labour, in some shape, will find himself miserably disappointed. But there is ample room, and abundant opportunity; there is a benignant sky above, and a fruitful soil beneath; there is, since the extirpation of the bush-rangers, protection for property and life: and there are laws suited to the present circumstances of the place. And the emigrant who carries with him moderate means of beginning, habits of industry, and skill, will soon acquire "competence," with the fair prospect of enjoying "health and peace"—a good, though poetical summary of human happiness; and that too in a short, the author believes, a shorter time than in other settlements. If he perseveres he will, in no long time, acquire all that riches can give, if not hoards of gold and silver, the means of good living, even to luxury—all the fairest fruits of the earth, and abundant flocks and herds.

To smooth the way, to remove petty though vexatious obstructions, and to facilitate labour at the outset—a most important period, when unavoidable difficulties, privations, and sometimes hardships, are too frequently increased by want of information, inadvertence, and consequent error, to such an extent that fair prospects are often darkened, and the emigrant is first disheartened and then abandons his purpose, at a time when a little better information, and a little perseverance would have led him to independence and comfort—to assist him in such circumstances, and to prevent such results, is the principal aim of the author. He does not pretend to write a full and accurate account of the colony, in its various relations, connections, and aspects; he has confined himself chiefly to rural affairs, the affairs of which he was most capable of judging, in which he took the greatest interest, and which are most interesting to the new settler. Respecting these affairs, he presumes to say, that the information communicated is faithful, and to hope that it will therefore be available to the end proposed. Tradesmen, artisans, shop-keepers, &c., if they are intelligent and well behaved, meet with encouragement, and profitable returns in Van Diemen's Land; but to such persons the author is not competent to give advice, and to such, little advice is necessary. To the agricultural emigrant, however, it is of vast importance to see his way clearly before he start; and to him the hints thrown out regarding preparation, the voyage, landing, location, building, stock, servants, farming, grazing, &c., will be useful.— Assisted by such hints, and taking with him a moderate sum of money, good character, good health, some knowledge and perseverance, he can scarcely fail to prosper—doubts and difficulties there maybe, but the end will be success. He is requested, above all things, not to despond till he has been in possession for one year. He will then find his difficulties diminished, and his prospects brightened, having the well grounded hope of living comfortably, and of dying in peace upon his own estate; and of leaving the land which his patient labour and industry reclaimed from the wilderness, to be cultivated and enjoyed by his children, who shall transmit his name and it to distant posterity—a source of the most pure and perfect gratification which man can enjoy.

As the author has not been accustomed to write for the public, he feels himself very incompetent for the undertaking, as far as regards manner. He is aware that a good deal depends upon arrangement and style, and that in these matters he will likely be found deficient; but he trusts that his literary inexperience will excuse, and the practical information which he communicates, will justify his conduct.

ERRATA.

CONTENTS.

PRESENT STATE
OF
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND,
&c. &c. &c.
CHAPTER I.

HINTS ON FIRST SETTING OUT.

ALTHOUGH it is not absolutely necessary for an emigrant to obtain the sanction of the Secretary of State for the Colonial Department, to enable him to proceed to Van Diemen's Land, I would certainly advise such application to be made, as the party is then entitled to a grant of land immediately upon arrival in the Colony, which otherwise would not be obtainable without having first sent a petition to the Governor, enclosing a statement of his property, verified by two or more witnesses; this application is sometimes not replied to for a month, thereby incurring great loss of time and much vexation; whereas the letter which an applicant receives from the office in Downing-street, in reply to a request for an order for a grant of land, is to be presented to the Governor upon arrival. The tenor of the letter is that, on complying with the conditions required, and satisfying the necessary inquiries as to sufficiency of capital, a grant of land is accorded. The smallest amount of capital required by the regulations was, in the first instance, £500, but I have known many instances where a much smaller sum has enabled its possessor to obtain a grant. The regulations which are sent as a guide to every settler state, in brief:—

That the Colonies are to be divided into Hundreds and Parishes; when completed, a valuation of the respective parishes will be made, and an average price set on the land in each; all the land not hitherto granted will then be put up to sale at the price thus fixed: any individual wishing to purchase land previous to the division of the country, must apply to the Governor, through the Survey Office, through which department all correspondence respecting land must pass.— Purchase-money is to be paid by four quarterly instalments, or ten per cent, allowed for cash payments. On completing the purchase, the whole grants, in fee simple, are given at a pepper-corn rent. The largest quantity said to be allowed on sale to any one individual is 9,600 acres, or five lots of three square miles each; but if more be required, application must be made to the Secretary of State, explaining the party's object and means. A purchaser may claim the return of his purchase-money any time within ten years, but without interest; and if he can prove that he has employed convicts to ten times the amount of the money, every convict is estimated at an annual cost of £16. The largest grant I have heard of, made without purchase, was 2,560 acres, and the smallest 320; but in all cases grants are refused unless the party can shew he possesses property, and intends to expend it in cultivation to half the estimated value of the land. A quit rent of five per cent, per annum upon the estimated value is fixed upon every grant, but this may be redeemed within the first twenty-five years, on payment of a sum equal to twenty times the annual amount. In redemption of this quit rent, the same regulations as to the maintenance of convicts are allowed, as in the purchase of lands. No quit rent is chargeable upon grants without purchase till the expiration of seven years, but at the end of that period every grantee must satisfactorily prove to the Surveyor-General, that he has expended in the cultivation and improvement of his land, a sum equal to half its estimated value; on failure of which the land again reverts to the crown: nor can any additional grant be made, unless the applicant can prove that this stipulated sum has been laid out upon his original grant. Should, however, a person receive a second grant, the quit rent is payable immediately. Any individual wanting land upon terms not in accordance with the above rules, must lay before the Secretary of State, in writing, the reasons why he considers himself exempted from the customary regulations.

Should the emigrant not have a letter from the Secretary of State to present to the Governor, (which if he has one, must be presented in person), his application goes through the Surveyor, who hands in the original document, with a report upon it to the Governor, on the first and fifteenth of every month. Many persons have thought that by laying out the stipulated sum in sheep or cattle, to stock their locations, they were complying with the regulations; but such is not the case, the Government expect the money to be laid out upon the improvement of the soil; nor are settlers to allow their assigned servants any portion of their allotments for their own private advantage, on pain of being deprived of their services and all other indulgences. No one, in fact, is by law allowed to suffer an assigned servant to work at any occupation for his private emolument. The fees payable at the Survey Office, upon obtaining a grant of land, are proportioned to the extent. Forty acres, which is the smallest, being charged 7s. 6d., and one thousand acres £3 5s., with a progressive 4 s. above that sum upon every hundred acres. A town allotment, for building purposes, pays Id. per foot of street front, and a farther charge of 5s. for marking off the ground.

The foregoing is a compendium of all the rules laid down for obtaining a grant, and although not one-half of them are strictly acted upon, it is nevertheless but fair that Govern ment should have some security from settlers, numerous instances having occurred of land having been obtained, and sold the very next week, or perhaps the following day; a much stricter system is consequently now adopted than formerly. I have already said, that land granted without purchase, is not liable, for seven years, to be charged with any quit rent; during that period, therefore, it is not too much to expect, that an industrious man may have amassed enough by the produce of his farm, to be able to pay the rent upon the very low valuation set upon it. The present plan is, not to give the settler a grant at first; in reply to his application, he gets a letter of location for a specified number of acres, from the Colonial Secretary in Hobart Town: when this is selected, and memoranda taken of what farms or other marks constitute its boundaries, the settler must apply at the Surveyor's Office, where the location is accurately noted down upon the map, with the settler's name, who, upon payment of the office fees, receives an order to be presented to the district surveyor, authorising him to measure out the land and strike the boundary line.

The grant, however, is seldom given up to the occupant, until the surveyor is satisfied that the land is about to be cultivated, and the specified regulations complied with. The grant once obtained, the place becomes a freehold to its possessor in the fullest legal sense, conferring the same right to bequeath or sell it, as if it were an estate in England.

CHAPTER II.

ADVICE TO SETTLERS PREPARATORY TO THEIR LEAVING ENGLAND, AND DESCRIPTION OF THE VOYAGE OUT.

THE proper application having been made, and the order obtained for a grant of land, from the Colonial Office in Downing-street, the next important consideration is the choice of a vessel. There are in general from six to ten ships advertising in the London newspapers, for freight and passengers to both colonies; I would recommend great care in making a selection. A captain who is, what is termed, in command of a regular trader, having made several voyages, is on many accounts to be preferred; the information to be obtained from him during the voyage is frequently of service, and as these men have most of them grants of land, and are personally known to the Governor, it is in their power, if they please, to introduce you not only to his Excellency, but also to the principal merchants and settlers. There are many other advantages also consequent upon sailing by a regular trader, in preference to such as are taken up for the voyage: the regular traders may be depended upon for the time of their departure, to within a few days of the time specified in their advertisements.

When an individual has determined upon the vessel in which he will take his passage, I would have him, on no account, neglect obtaining a letter from the captain, stating what the allowances are to be. This is the more necessary, from the many instances of ill-treatment that have occurred from bad and insufficient stores. If the owners or commander mean what is correct, this request of a passenger will be readily complied with; whereas, on the contrary, if deception is practised, the letter will be an effective document for sustaining an action against the captain, which the courts abroad will assuredly mark by awarding the plaintiff wholesome damages. I should recommend the voyage to be taken in a trader of not less than 350 tons; the accommodations in a vessel of less tonnage are much too confined for requisite exercise. Small vessels, lacking free circulation of air, are also much warmer in crossing the equator; and are very damp and uncomfortable when round the Cape, from the necessity of shipping more water than larger vessels. The rates of passage by the regular vessels are about 80 guineas in the cabin, and 40 in the steerage, with an abatement for children, or a large family; the payment is generally made previous to embarking, but this is not always required. If a person is disposed to invest a sum in the purchase of goods, for sale upon his arrival out, he might arrange with the broker or captain, to reserve the passage-money out of the proceeds of the goods; but it must be remembered, that the broker will charge commission, and expect to effect and hold the policy of insurance, to recover in case of loss; added to which, the shipper not having the controul over his own property until the claims upon it are paid, might not be able to effect a sale upon the most advantageous terms—freight is, I admit, generally payable abroad; but the passage-money it is much better to pay in England. All goods are freight-free that can be stowed in the cabin appropriated for a passenger to sleep in; every thing that cannot be so disposed of must be paid for. From the middle of March to the end of June, I should recommend as the best time in the year for embarking: in the first place, fine and moderate weather may be generally expected during the whole voyage. Arrival may be calculated upon in from four to five months, which, in the Colony, will be the spring season and the rains quite over; consequently the best time for a settler to travel over the country and choose his grant. When he has taken a place suitable for his purpose, he has plenty of time to arrange about the construction of his dwelling, See. previous to any bad weather setting in; but these advantages are pointed out in another part of this work, where I have spoken more fully upon the subject.

Vessels are generally advertised to touch at both ports, Sydney and Hobart Town, but my advice to the emigrant is, not to sail by any vessel that does not go direct to his destination. I have known persons detained six weeks and two months in Hobart Town, whose destination has been Sydney, and no doubt the same has frequently occurred in the other settlement; it were superfluous to dilate on the mischief arising from such a loss, both of time and money. It may not be amiss for emigrants having large families, and residing, previous to their leaving home, in the West of England, to keep in view the possibility of sailing by a vessel that will call at Falmouth, or a port in the channel, thus avoiding the expence of a journey to London, and perhaps a protracted stay there. When the vessel once leaves Gravesend there is seldom any detention but from foul winds; whilst the ship is getting down channel, the persons to whom this relates, have time to pack up their goods and get to the specified port to join her upon arrival; their departure is then effected without delay and at considerable less expence. In a good vessel, the allowances in the cabin are so ample, that except perhaps a few Seidlitz powders in bottles, the passengers are not in want of any thing. Steerage passengers have generally a paper put into their hands by the broker, stating what they are to be allowed; amongst other things, standing in a very prominent place, in a printed form I saw, was the article of fresh meat; upon enquiry I found, as I suspected, that this was a ruse de guerre of the broker; for three days after leaving Deal, the fresh meat was expended, and the usual allowance of salt beef or pork served out, and although mutton was abundant enough in the cabin, none (except perhaps occasionally for the sick, or when the weather was so hot it would not keep), found its way into the steerage. A trifle, therefore, expended in the purchase of a few articles which are not served out by the ship will, during the voyage, be found exceedingly comfortable. On the passage out, vessels generally touch either at Madeira, Teneriffe, the Cape de Verd Islands, Rio Janeiro, or the Cape of Good Hope, to obtain water, fresh provisions, fruit, vegetables, &c. If a vessel can make Tristan d'Acunha, any quantity of delicious water, with potatoes, fowls, sheep and vegetables, may be procured in a few hours. The allowance of water generally served out to all hands, varies from two quarts to five pints, per diem, according to circumstances; but when many sheep or cattle are on board, less even than this must suffice; this allowance is intended not only for washing and drinking, but each passenger is obliged, out of his quota, to contribute towards the necessary supply for cooking on soup days, and for other purposes; the strictest frugality, therefore, in this article, is absolutely necessary. A friend of mine told me that he had frequently given a bottle of porter from his private stock, to a fellow passenger, in exchange for a similar quantity of pump water!

The first part of Van Diemen's Land made by vessels arriving from Europe, is generally South West Cape, in Lat. 43° 39'0" South, and Long. 146° 10'0" East; from thence passing De Witt's Land on the left, and the Mewstone on the right, you round South Cape and Recherche Bay, which brings you to the entrance of Entrecasteaux Channel, on entering which is a reef called Actæon's Reef, from the circumstance of a ship of that name being lost there. A vessel rounding the South Cape, with the intention of entering the Channel, ought not to bring the South Cape head to the Southward of West, until Cape Bruni bears N.E., to avoid the two islands, and the extensive reef which lays off to the S.E. part of the Channel. When the Actæon struck, the South Friar off Tasman's Head, bore E. by N. ½ N., Partridge Island N. by E. ¼ E., distant off the S.E. point seven or eight miles. The island where the Actæon was wrecked, is about two miles long, and half a mile broad, divided by a narrow neck in the middle that overflows at high water and is separated from the southernmost island by a channel two miles broad, with soundings from three to eight fathoms, and many shoals. There is a passage between the islands and the main, but it is intricate and only should be attempted in case of emergency: the entrance into the channel between the reef and Bruni Island, is seven or eight miles wide, and quite free from danger. In the channel is a shoal opposite the North entrance of the Heron river, opposite Green Island. It is now marked by three buoys, the Southerly, white; the second, black, N. 3° W. from the former; and the third, red, bearing N. 9° W. from the black buoy. Should a vessel going round Bruni Island, and taking the Storm Bay passage in preference to the channel d'Entrecasteaux, I do not conceive, unless under very untoward circumstances, that any mistake can be made. The ship Hope, on her passage from Sydney, contrived in the night of the 7th April, 1827, to run ashore on the South arm at the back of Betsy's Island, and was entirely lost; owing, as I always understood, to one half of the crew being drunk, and the rest asleep.

The tide in the Derwent rises between four and five feet only; the current is, however, generally running down, and as the wind is most frequently from the Northward, the passage, although not more than fifty miles from Tasman's Head to the Town, frequently occupies several days to accomplish, constantly obliging the vessel to come to an anchor; this is provokingly annoying, the only relief being the sight of land. The eye so long wearied with the tedious prospect of the wide waste of waters, reposes at length, with a pleasure not to be described, on the hills rising on each side, and covered to the summit with gum and other trees, exhibiting a dark and sombre foliage. On arriving at the north part of Bruni, the farms of Mr. Kelly, the pilot and harbour master, peep out, beautifully sloping down to the water's edge, with every sort of herbage (should it be the season of the year I have recommended the settler to choose his voyage,) growing in the greatest luxuriance; but should it be any other period of the year, the yellow wheat ripe for the sickle, or the dark brown fallow, pleasingly indicates the operations of the English plough. Before you approach the farms spoken of, you will have either the said Mr. Kelly come on board in his character of pilot, or Mr. Mansfield his coadjutor, loaded with a basket, containing eggs, vegetables, fruit, milk, &c. If a bullock has been slaughtered on either of their farms, a piece of roast beef will serve to give the new comer no very bad opinion of his adopted country. The portly looks of Kelly, and his unequivocal appetite, will also serve as a proof, if any were required, that the air of these regions is any thing but insalubrious.

Proceeding up the river, Mount Wellington, rising 3,800 feet above the sea, presents his hoary head covered with snow. The signal-post at Mount Nelson, comes in also for the stranger's notice; from this signal-house, which communicates with the Battery, full information has been given of the vessel's movements, since she was abreast of South-West Cape. A little below the Battery, a boat with the Collector of Customs, Rollo O'Ferrall, Esq., comes alongside, when the manifest, register, and ship's papers, are given up, as also the letter bags, which it is his duty to forward to the Post Office for immediate delivery. These forms being disposed of, the Collector takes his departure, and the vessel passes by numerous delightful farms on both sides the river, which is about two miles wide. Bethume on the right, coming up the river, is a long tongue of land, upon which is a very pretty attractive house, the property of Mr. W. A. Bethume, one of the most respectable and respected men in the island. After getting round the Battery, a view of the town, harbour, shipping, &c. immediately opens upon the view, and the decks are crowded with merchants and others, all as anxious to hear news of Old England, as those on board are to learn the state of what may now be called their newly-chosen country. The joyful sound of the dropping anchor at length brings you to the moment of disembarkation; and here, landing upon the jetty, I will leave the expatriated wonderers, contemplating the motley assemblage attired in grey and yellow trowsers; all of whom, it may with truth be said, had "left their country for their country's good."

CHAPTER III.

HISTORICAL INFORMATION.

IT may not be absolutely necessary in a work of this description, to give a history of the early settlements of these Colonies; but having derived, from various sources, an account of the rise and progress of these infant settlements, I shall, in as concise a manner as possible, communicate what I trust may not be deemed altogether uninteresting.

On the 4th of August, 1642, a Dutch navigator, named Captain Able Jansen Tasman, sailed from Batavia with two vessels belonging to the Dutch East India Company, and touching at the Mauritius, proceeded thence steering Southerly and East; Captain Tasman made land on the 24th of November, in Lat. 42° 25' South, which he named Van Diemen's Land. On the 1st of December, Tasman came to an anchor, in what is now called Frederick Hendrick's Bay, a little to the Southward of Maria Island, and on the following day, the master of his ship was sent with an armed boat in quest of fresh water, wood, &c. which they succeeded in getting, but saw no human creature, though they heard, not far off, sounds as from human voices, and music not unlike that of a trumpet or gong. On the 3d, Tasman caused a pole to be set up with the Company's mark, and a Dutch flag, which was accomplished by the carpenter swimming ashore and fixing the pole near four lofty trees, an ineffectual attempt to land having been previously made by the captain and a boat's crew, owing to the surf and a heavy gale of wind then blowing. On the 5th of December the vessels sailed from Van Diemen's Land to the Eastward, in order to find the Solomon Islands, but. their efforts were frustrated by contrary winds.

We hear nothing farther respecting Van Diemen's Land until the year 1770, when Captain Cook made the discovery that New Holland, which up to that period was supposed to be continental, was insular. On the 10th of March, 1773, Captain Cook, in his second voyage round the world, was accompanied by Captain Furneaux,* Lieutenant (afterwards Governor) King, Sir Joseph Banks and Dr. Solander, came to an anchor in Adventure Bay, on the East side of Bruni Island; the next day they landed on the Island near Tasman's head, where they had a friendly interview with the natives, and caught several birds, wild ducks, teal, fish and native beasts. Leaving this place, they proceeded to coast along the shore, but meeting with rough weather they were obliged to give up their design, and steered for New Zealand. In Captain Cook's last voyage, he again discovered the coast of Van Diemen's Land, bearing N. 45° W. On the 25th of January, 1777, he anchored in Adventure Bay, where they procured wood and water, with grass for the cattle. Lieutenant King landed under the protection of the marines: a small tribe of natives made their appearance, without any apparent dismay, and received several presents with the most apathetic indifference. Some bread and birds were given them; the former they either returned or threw away, but the latter were devoured with great avidity. Two pigs being put on shore with the idea of leaving them in the woods, the natives seized them and attempted to carry them off, for the purpose, as was supposed, of making a repast of them. A musket was fired to induce them to abandon their intention, which had its desired effect; as, on hearing the report, they made a precipitate flight into the woods, leaving behind an axe and two knives which had been given them. The pigs, however, were left as a present.

It is remarkable, that the same total incapability of attending to any thing beyond their immediate wants, is to this day the predominant characteristic of these people. The day succeeding this interview, which terminated so abruptly, the natives again appeared, and seemed to desire farther intercourse. Captain Cook was not backward in promoting this, and directly went on shore. He had not long landed, when he was joined by a party of about twenty men and women, who exhibited no symptoms of fear at the interview. They had small cords of fur round their neck, and slips of kangaroo skins round their ankles. They received some beads with apparent satisfaction; but did not seem to value iron, or know the use of fish hooks. Some of the sailors in attempting little gallantries with the women, were repelled with obvious indignation, a circumstance that induced the men to order all the women and children away. On the morning of the 30th of January, Captain Cook weighed anchor, and proceeded on to New Zealand.

In the year 1787-8, the British Government having resolved upon establishing a penal settlement in New Holland, Commodore (afterwards Governor) Philips was appointed to the command, having under his orders the Sirius and Supply frigates, with several transports and store-ships having prisoners on board; after their disembarkation at Port Jackson, they were agreeably surprised by the arrival of the Count de La Perouse in the French ship of war La Boussale, in company with the L'Astrolabe, Captain de L'Angle, who had come to these distant regions on a voyage of discovery. They arrived in January 1788, and rendered Governor Philips every assistance in their power, during the time of their remaining. On the 11th of March of the same year, the unfortunate nobleman departed, and was never heard of more, until the year 1809, when Captain Bunker in the ship Venus, put into Adventure Bay, in Van Diemen's Land, to refresh on his way from Calcutta. On the shore was discovered the stump of a tree, on which were some French words rudely cut, but which time had almost obliterated. Captain Bunker, however, deciphered enough to induce him to dig beneath the tree, when he found a bottle sealed up; on opening which, the contents proved to be three letters left by the Admiral; one was addressed to the French Government, the others merely stated who he was, that he had touched there, and was gone on in search of a Southern Continent. As these letters were dated one month after his leaving Port Jackson, the opinion became general that the expedition must have been lost upon some of the reefs of Van Diemen's Land, or in that part of the South Seas.

In consequence of this idea, the French Government in the year 1791, caused the ships Recherche and Esperance, to be fitted out for an expedition to make enquiries as to the fate of Perouse. Rear Admiral Bruni D'Entrecasteaux was appointed to the command, having his flag in the Recherche, and Captain Huon 6econd in command, in the Esperance. It is to this expedition that we are indebted for most of the names that the harbours, bays, islands, &c. at the entrance of the river Derwept, now bear. They dropped anchor in Research Bay, and reconnoitring the North side, discovered the Huon river; and that Tasman's Head was part of Bi uni Island, which was divided from the main land by D'Entre-casteaux Channel. Had they gone into Adventure Bay, they would most probably have discovered the bottle, found so long afterwards by Captain Bunker. Of the grand object of their search, the fate of La Boussale and IS Astrolabe, nothing could be ascertained, though they afterwards learnt that Captain De L'Angle, the companion of De La Perouse, was killed at Navigator's Island, on the coast of New Holland, by savages, similar to those inhabiting the Feejee Islands. In consequence of bad weather, the expedition departed for Cape Diemen to procure water; from whence they pursued their course to the southernmost parts of New Holland, where, after remaining for some time, pursuing inquiry as to the fate of the lost navigators, they returned to France, entirely unsuccessful.

Nothing more was heard of La Perouse for many years; but during my stay in Hobart's Town on the 6th of April, 1827, a vessel called the Research, under the command of a gentleman named Dillon, came into harbour for the purpose of procuring provisions; this vessel had been fitted out by the British government at Calcutta for the purpose of endeavouring, amongst other things, to discover where La Perouse was lost: as Captain Dillon was kind enough to furnish the public press in Van Diemen's Land with a variety of particulars connected with the objects of his voyage, it will not, I hope, be deemed an useless occupation of the following pages, to impart to the reader a concise detail of the occurrences as they were extracted from Captain Dillon's relation.

In September, 1813, Captain Dillon was an officer on board the Hunter, Captain Robson, bound from Calcutta to New South Wales, the Feejee Islands, and Canton. While at the Feejees, they discovered that several Europeans were living amongst the islands, some of whom had been left by their ships, others were deserters, and some of them had been shipwrecked. Whilst these men were getting a cargo of sandal-wood, beche-le-mer, and other articles for the ship, a misunderstanding arose between them and the inhabitants of a town named Wilain, on the sandal-wood coast, and which led to a fatal affray on the 7th of September, when all the Europeans were killed, with the exception of Captain Dillon, a native of Stettin, in Prussia, named Martin Buchart, and a sailor named Wilson; these three, and a Lascar called Chonlia, with his wife, a Feejee woman, got on board the Hunter, and as they would have been killed had they landed again, Captain Robson gave them a passage to the first land he might fall in with on his voyage to Canton. The ship sailed from the Fejees on the 12th of September, and on the 20th made land, which proved to be the Island of Tucopia in Lat. 12° South, and Long. 169° East. The Prussian, the Lascar and his wife, were at their own request left upon this island. On the 13th of May, 1826, Captain Dillon, who then commanded the ship called the St. Patrick, was on a voyage from Valparaiso, bound to Pondicherry, again in sight of Tucopia; prompted by curiosity to learn the fate of an old companion, he hove to, when a canoe put off from the shore, and upon coming alongside, was found to contain the Lascar; and soon after, in another canoe, came Martin Buchart, both in good health. They had, it appears, during this long interval of time, seen only two English whalers, which had touched there at separate periods, each staying but a few hours. The Lascar had an old silver sword-guard, which he sold to the people for a few fish-hooks: upon enquiring of the Prussian whence he had obtained it, he stated that upon his first arrival on the island, he saw in the possession of the natives this sword-guard, several chain plates belonging to a ship, a number of iron bolts, five axes, the handle of a silver fork, a few knives, tea-cups, glass beads and bottles, a silver spoon with a crest and cypher, and a sword, all apparently of French manufacture. As soon as Buchart could make himself understood by the Tucopians, he inquired how they became possessed of them; when he learnt, that in about two days' sail in their canoes to leeward, was a large group of islands, called the Malicolo Islands, to which they were in the frequent habit of making voyages, and that they had obtained them from the inhabitants, who had many similar articles still in their possession. Upon an examination of the sword hilt, the initials of " La Perouse" were clearly discernible. By aid of the Lascar and the Prussian, Captain Dillon questioned the islanders as to the way in which their neighbours had become possessed of these things, when the following important information transpired. Many years ago, two large vessels arrived at the Malicolo Islands, one anchored at a place called Whanoo, and the other at Paiow (two islands a little distance from each other). Some time after they anchored, and before they had had any communication with the natives, a heavy gale arose, and both vessels were wrecked. The ship at Whanoo grounded upon the rocks. The natives came in crowds to the sea shore, armed with clubs, spears, and bows and arrows; some of the latter they shot into the ship. The crew, in return, fired upon and killed several of the natives. The vessel continuing to beat on the rocks, shortly after went to pieces; some of the crew took to the boats, but were ultimately run on shore, where they were every one murdered by the islanders. Of this vessel's crew, it seems, not a soul was saved. The other vessel, which grounded on Paiow, was driven on a sandy beech; the natives shot their arrows into her, but the crew, instead of resenting it, held up beads, axes, and other presents, upon which the assailants desisted. When the wind moderated, an aged chief came off in a canoe; he was received with caresses, and presents were offered him, with which he went away and pacified his companions; many of whom then came off with yams, fowls, bananas, cocoa-nuts, hogs, &c. and confidence was mutually established. The crew of the vessel was obliged to abandon her and go on shore, taking with them a great part of the stores, and out of the wreck of the large vessel they built a smaller one, with which they departed, taking as many of their people as they could carry, and promising to return for the remainder, whom they left among the natives: the vessel, however, was never heard of after her departure. Those who remained of the crew, distributed themselves among various chiefs, and having some muskets and powder, they were of great service to their new friends, in the occasional contentions which took place among the neighbouring islanders.— The Prussian, it seems, had never been to Malicolo, but the Lascar had been there twice; at Paiow he had seen and conversed with the Europeans in the language of the islanders. They were old men, and told him they had been wrecked many years in one of the ships, the remains of which were still to be seen: no ship they said, had touched upon the island since they had been there; most of their comrades, too were dead, they believed, but thfiy had been so scattered over the islands, that they could not exactly say how many were alive.

Such remarkable coincidences, coupled with the sight of the sword-guard, determined Captain Dillon upon proceeding to the Malicolo Islands to examine the wreck, and, if practicable, to bring away the men with whom the Lascar had spoken. The Lascar declined to accompany him, but the Prussian on the contrary was anxious to go, and a Tucopian went on board. The vessel made the Malicolo Islands in a few days from her departure from Tucopia, but as she neared the land, it fell a perfect calm, and continued so for seven days: the provisions became short, and the vessel was leaky from long continuance at sea; Captain Dillon was therefore, reluctantly compelled to take advantage of a breeze, and arrived after great difficulty at his port of destination.

In the last advices, received in Europe, from De La Perouse, he thus announces to the French Government his future intentions. " I shall bear up for the Friendly Isles again, and shall fulfil most strictly all my instructions respecting the Southern portion of New Caledonia, the Isle Santa Cruz of Mandana, the Southern coast of the Arsacides of Surville, and the Lousiade of Bougainville, attempting to determine whether the last is separated from, or is a part of, New Guinea. I shall proceed about the end of July, between New Guinea and New Holland, by a different passage from that of the Endeavour, if any such passage exists. During September and October, I shall explore the Gulf of Carpentaria and the Eastern coast of New Holland to Van Diemen's Land, but only so far as to enable me to return to the Northward in time to reach the Isle of France by the beginning of December, 1788.'' Both before and after his visit to New Caledonia, the course of De La Perouse must have lain immediately in the positions of the Malicolo Islands, which are situated between Queen Charlotte's Archipelago and New Caledonia, all three being nearly North and South of each other, as the following latitudes and longitudes will plainly evince:

A farther confirmation of Captain Dillon's idea, is the story published in the Asiatic Journal of October, 1825, of a whaler having found vestiges of De La Perouse, such as swords, medals, and a cross of St. Louis, on an island between New Caledonia and New Guinea. Under all these considerations, too much praise cannot be given to the Governor-General of India for the present undertaking. Captain Dillon's ship, the Research, is a fine strong cruiser, belonging to the Company; mounting sixteen guns, and has seventy-eight men. Owing to a disagreement that took place between the captain and Dr. Tytler, the surgeon to the expedition, which ended in a law suit at Hobart Town, the sailing of the vessel was unfortunately delayed for some time, but I trust they will still be able to learn something satisfactory of these unfortunate people*.

To return, however, to the subject of Van Diemen's Land. The British Government, seeing how well the settlement of Port Jackson thrived, resolved to form a new establishment at Port Philip, on the Southern coast of New Holland, as a penal settlement for the worst description of convicts from England, as well as for those who might commit offences at Port Jackson.

With this intention, on the 27th April, 1803, H.M.S. Calcutta, Captain Woodriff, accompanied by the transport ship Ocean, Captain Matthew, sailed from England with three hundred and sixty-seven male prisoners and twelve free women, (the wives of prisoners who were permitted to accompany their husbands); the whole under the government of Colonel David Collins of the Royal Marines, with a chaplain, surgeon, and other requisite officers. Of these there were still remaining alive at my departure from Hobart Town, the following gentlemen who were on board the expedition: the Rev. Robert Knopwood, senior though not principal clergyman; Dr. E. F. Bromley, the surgeon; A. W. H. Humphrey, mineralogist (now Police Magistrate), and Lieutenant Edward Lord, R. M., who at the present moment is one of the largest landed proprietors in the Colony. The vessels arrived at Port Philip on the 9th October, 1803, but no sooner had they arrived, than every one saw the impracticability of remaining, in consequence of the great want of water; an open boat was, therefore, sent to Sydney to Governor King, for instructions how to proceed; when Lieutenant Governor Collins waa ordered to form a settlement either at Port Dalrymple, or upon the banks of the Derwent, in Van Diemen's Land, whichever might be deemed most eligible; after mature deliberation, it was resolved to locate the latter place, and the whole establishment was removed from Port Philip, in two separate drafts, by the Ocean, and a Government brig called the Lady Nelson, the Calcutta having been obliged to sail for Sydney to quell an insurrection that had broken out there. The first draft, with whom went Lieutenant-Colonel Collins, left Port Philip on the 30th January, and arrived on the 16th February in the Derwent; the second draft did not arrive until the 23d June following. On the arrival of Colonel Collins, he found a party which Governor King had sent to take possession, (for fear of its getting into the hands of the French), as far back as August, 1803, under Lieutenant Bowen; they had settled themselves at Risdon, where they were nearly starving. The Lieutenant-Governor having surveyed many parts adjacent, at length fixed upon the present scite of Hobart Town, as the most eligible place for forming his little camp. In October, 1804, another settlement was made at Port Dalrymple, on the North side of the Island, and Lieutenant-Colonel Patterson, of the 102nd Regiment, was nominated commandant. From 1804 until 1810, the greatest privation was felt in the Colony, the people being frequently without bread or flour, and living principally on kangaroo and Botany-bay greens. In 1807, sheep were first introduced from India, and Norfolk Island, when the latter place was evacuated. The cattle were most of the inferior Bengal breed, although at Port Dalrymple a better sort had been introduced. On the 24th March, 1810, Colonel Collins died suddenly, in the seventh year of his government: until the beginning of 1813, the government was administered, pro tempore, by three commandants in succession, viz. Lieutenant Edward Lord, R. M., Captain W. Murray, and Lieutenant-Colonel Andrew Geils, both of the 73d Regiment. Colonel Davy, R. M. was the second Governor: he arrived oil the 4th February, 1813, and continued his functions until the 9th April, 1817, when he was succeeded by Colonel William Sorell, who remained till the 14th May, 1824, when he returned to England, taking with him the good wishes and affectionate regards of all who knew him. Colonel Sorell was succeeded by Colonel George Arthur, who is the present Lieutenant-Governor.

On the 3d of December, 1825, a proclamation was published, declaring Van Diemen's Land and the Islands adjacent to be independent of the Government of New South Wales, and giving full power to Colonel Arthur (in the absence of the first Governor, Lieutenant-General Ralph Darling), to act without reference; Colonel Arthur, thereupon, assumed the title of His Excellency.

Until ten or twelve years ago, Van Diemen's Land continued in its original state of a penal settlement; but since then, it has had perhaps as great a share of free emigrants as New South Wales; a progressive improvement has been the result. The declaring the Colony independent of Sydney, has also been of essential service; previous to that event, robberies might be said to be committed with impunity, as few would take the trouble of prosecuting a felon to be compelled to go to Sydney, leaving (as I have before observed) their business, to incur the risk of what is always a rough, and frequently a dangerous passage.

In the years 1798-9, Van Diemen's Land was circumnavigated by Lieutenant Flinders, in a sloop called the Norfolk, when it was found to be 30 leagues distant from any known part of New Holland; the main land lying between the Lat. of 41° 20' and 43° 43' South, and Long. 144° 35' and 148° 22' East of London; and containing something more than 18,000 square miles of surface; the greater part of which is yet unexplored; the daily locations of fresh settlers, however, are rapidly bringing the country to be better known. The Van Diemen's Land Company having taken their grant upon the North-western point of the island, it is to be presumed that, ere long, a road will be opened from their settlement into the high roads, communicating with Launceston and Hobart Town; when this is done, as it must be sooner or later, an immense extent of country will be laid open, which will no doubt materially tend to enrich the Colony in general, more particularly if any rivers should be found, which in my opinion there can be no doubt of discovering in so large a tract of country.

* Captain Furneaux, who had separated from Captain Cook in a fog, proceeded to Van Diemen's Land, which had been recently found to be also insular, and divided from New Holland by a Strait, now called Bass's Strait.

* Since my arrival in England, I have received from a friend the following intelligence respecting tlie expedition; the letter is dated Hobart Town, 9th January, 1828:—"Accounts have been received from Captain Dillon, that he has discovered several articles belonging to De La Perouse; and there can be no doubt of his having been lost at the Malicolo Islands. A French corvette, the L'Astrolabe, has been here in search of Captain Dillon for the same object."

CHAPTER IV.

HOBART TOWN.

IN giving a description of this, the capital of Van Diemen's Land, I must preface my observations by stating, that the alterations and improvements, both intended and in progress, are so numerous, that many things I shall describe are now either removed, or so much renovated and beautified, that new comers will in many instances find my history at variance with existing appearances. My aim, however, is to detail things as they were, during my stay in the Colony.

The first object seen on coming into the harbour, is the Mulgrave Battery, a poor pitiful mud fort, with half a dozen old honey-combed guns, which (perfectly harmless to the artillery-man who fires them) serve to make a noise on the King's birth-day, and on one or two other public occasions in the course of the year. At the top of the bay is the governor's house (which has lately been much enlarged), with neat grass-plats, garden and shrubbery, extending down to the water's edge; in the distance, on the left, is the church, court-house and gaol; on the right of the harbour is the pier or jetty, an artificial work carried from the main land to what was an island, but which is now connected by a substantial causeway of masonry, wide enough for two carts to pass, and a good path for foot passengers. The first store next to the sea is Mr. W. A. Bethume's, government having what is termed a reserve, to erect a battery in case of need upon a rock that runs into the water. Mr. Bethume's country residence is on the opposite side of the river; from this spot you obtain another view of the house and grounds.

There are many other warehouses on the jetty, belonging to various merchants; the principal one is the property of the Edinburgh Australian Company, and is perhaps one of the finest buildings in the town, and bearing no mean comparison with some of the principal warehouses in London or Liverpool. At the top of the pier are the government stores, a large stone cdifice, and the Commissariat Office and stores: on the right was a large piece of swampyground,nearlyimpassable in winter, and through which the town rivulet emptied itself into the Derwent, serving as a receptacle for all sorts of filth; this disgusting nuisance is now removed, the rivulet is turned another way, and the swamp is filled up. Here it is intended to hold a market, a convenience which has been greatly wanted for a long time. On entering the town from the jetty, the stranger will be gratified with the view of so many substantial houses, and well made M'Adamized streets, running at right angles with each other, lhe town contains about one thousand houses, and the population may be computed at from six to seven thousand. Judging from the new buildings now erecting, the number of children, and the immense shoals of emigrants and convicts lately arrived, I should say that both houses and population bid fair to double their numbers in a few years. The houses, generally speaking, are of wood with a small garden before them, but which is usually kept in so slovenly a manner, as to be any thing but ornamental to the premises. Almost all new buildings are either of brick or stone; the former appear of a good quality; the freestone is very beautiful, but excessively dear: many houses are built of a rough-hewn stone, and then cemented with stucco; when this is well done it makes a very handsome and durable building. Proceeding up Macquarrie-street, in a straight line from the jetty, on the right stands the bank of Van Diemen's Land, and several good brick dwelling-houses, being the town residences of various settlers and others; at the corner of this and Elizabeth-street is the main guard, a poor low building fronting the gate of Government-house, which, with the grounds, are between Macquarrie-street and the harbour; here are generally to be seen some tame kangaroos hopping about, the governor generally having two or three in the garden. Proceeding forwards, on the left, is the court-house, a stone building; and, separated by Murray-street, is the gaol and factory; the latter place is where refractory female convicts are sent, until their manners are improved by a system of correction that will be pointed out hereafter. At the back of the courthouse is a space of ground running down to the sea, upon which it is intended to build a new gaol, having communication with the court: the present prison is certainly neither secure nor proper for the purpose. The females in the factory are also to be removed a little way out of town to a more airy situation, when it is to be hoped some little classification and attempt at effective discipline will be made amongst them.— Opposite to the court is St. David's church, a plain-looking brick edifice, with a weather-boarded steeple and a clock. This church has a very fine-toned organ, and is said to be capable of containing a congregation of one thousand persons. The governor, with the military and civil officers, merchants and free residents, take their seats in the body of the church; in the gallery on the right are forms for the private soldiers of the regiment stationed in the place, and in the left gallery are the prisoners from the Penitentiary, who are in government employ at the Lumber-yard or other works. The clergyman is the Rev. William Bedford, who performs service three times on a Sunday; the first commences at nine in the morning, and is for all prisoner servants either having tickets of leave, or assigned to various masters; this serves also as a muster to see that these people are in their proper districts, as previous to going into church their names are called over by the constables, when if a ticket man is absent, he is deprived of his ticket, unless he can get a note from his employer certifying that he had urgent use for him; if the absentee fail to do this, and is a prisoner, he receives a flogging, and is turned over to government again, who put him in the road gang for a month or more; the second and third services at the church are attended, as I have already stated, bv the governor, &c.

Proceeding up Macquarrie-street, on an eminence to the left are the soldier's barracks; from this place you have an excellent view of the whole town, harbour and river, with the opposite shore; this building is about to be much enlarged. Returning into the centre of the town, you cross the rivulet which runs from the hills, and which not only amply supplies the town with water, but turns as many mills as will nearly produce sufficient flour for the use of the inhabitants. There are several bridges over the stream, one of which, at the lower end of the town, near the Hospital, is called the Palladio. Why the name of this celebrated architect should have been given to such a trumpery concern, unless it is meant ironically, I am at a loss to know. The Hospital is a long brick building, standing upon an eminence in* a very healthy airy situation: at the back, in some very extensive brick-making fields, is the prisoner's barracks, alias the Penitentiary, alias " The Tench," by which latter name it is most frequently called by its inmates: here, every evening, the men in government employ are called over and locked up for the night; the chain gang who are employed all day in mending the roads and streets, are also lodged here, after the labour of the day. Near the barracks, is the office of Mr. Lakeland, the principal superintendant of convicts, to whom application must be made for assigned servants. In a piece of ground to the left of this office, is the Scotch church, a neat stone building, where the Rev. A. Macarthur is the minister. The Rev. B. Carvosso is the Wesleyan clergyman, and presides at a very neat stuccoed meeting-house in Bathurst-street. The Catholic chapel is a small edifice on the North side of the town in Patrick-street, where the Rev. Father Conolly performs the service. The principal inns, are the hotel in Macquarrie-street, kept by Mr. Hodgson; the Ship, by Wise; and the Derwent Hotel, by Stocker, both in Macquarrie-street; and the Commercial Inn on the jetty, of which Mr. Deane is the landlord; this latter is not the best house, though the best situated for persons having business on board of ships in the harbour.— There are, besides, upwards of thirty licensed public-houses in the town, which with sixteen in the country and nineteen on the Launceston side, give a pretty sufficient aggregate; to these also I believe, I may safely add, a like number of "sly grog shops," as they are called. In Liverpool-street, there is a very good boarding-house, kept by a widow lady named Wood; this is perhaps the best lodging for a family, being much quieter and more respectable than an inn.

There are day charity schools on the Lancasterian system, established in Hobart Town, and other parts of the island, where the population is sufficiently numerous to make them serviceable. An orphan school has been long talked of and is much wanted. An asylum is, perhaps, more necessary than a school for these unfortunate children, of whom there are a great many in all parts of the island. Of private schools there is one for boys, kept by a Mr. Thomson, in Melville-street, and another across the river at Kangaroo-point, kept by a Mr. Giblin; the hitter gentleman has been lately appointed superintendant of the government schools, and therefore will, in all probability, give up his establishment. Of the Cornwall Collegiate Institution, lately founded at Launceston, I shall speak when I come to a description of that side of the country. The establishment of Roxborough-house, in Elizabeth-street, for young ladies, under the direction of Mrs. Midwood and Miss Shartand, is fully equal to the first-rate seminaries of the same description in England, at least, if I may be permitted to judge from the accomplishments and elegant manners of those pupils I have the pleasure of knowing. Indeed, I conceive it to be of the utmost consequence to respectable emigrants having daughters requiring education, to know that the unexceptionable character of the seminaries in this part of the world, will obviate the painful necessity of leaving their children in England. I have not the pleasure of being personally acquainted with either Mrs. Midwood or Miss Shar<and, but I have been confidently assured that they are fully competent to the instruction of young ladies in all the attainments of polite literature, music, drawing, &c. This is the only ladies' school in the town; Mrs. Clark, who formerly had a number of pupils, having removed about seventy miles from Hobart Town.

The Post-office, situated in Murray-street, is under the management of Mr. I. T. Collicott, who, to the united character of post-master and auctioneer, adds that of a most excellent and worthy man, possessing the respect and esteem of all who know him; the business of the office is transacted with the greatest regularity and dispatch, nor is any opportunity ever neglected of forwarding letters to Europe, either by the way of Sydney, Batavia, India, Sincapore, or the Isle of France. The inland post to Launceston, is made up every Friday night, and gets there, (a distance of 123 miles,) by Sunday evening; returning from thence on Tuesday morning, so as to be in town by Wednesday night. Posts also leave twice a week for New Norfolk, the Coal River, and any other settlements adjacent. Every settler, previous to going to his location, should see Mr. Collicott, in order to effect the necessary arrangements for the forwarding his letters; indeed no person in the colony is able to give better general advice to new comers; in his capacity of auctioneer, Mr. C. can frequently inform a purchaser where sheep may be had at a low rate, and of improved breeds, with other useful information.

The post not leaving until Saturday morning for Launceston, the office is enabled to transmit the newspapers, of which there are three printed weekly. The " Government Gazette," edited by Dr. Ross, comes out on a Saturday; this journal is scarcely any thing more than the organ for advertisements, notices of convicts, and all official affairs emanating from the different public departments. The " Colonial Times," which is the best conducted paper in the country, is managed by Mr. Andrew Bent, and comes out on a Friday.* This was originally the government paper, but Mr. Bent chose to think for himself, which not being relished by " the powers that be," they took the business out of his hands and prosecuted him for two libels, of which he was found guilty, and sentenced to fine and imprisonment. Nothing daunted, he returned to the charge under his present title, assisted, as I have reason to believe, by most of the merchants, with whom, unfortunately, the present governor is not upon the most amicable terms. The third paper comes out on a Thursday, and is called " TheTasmanianit has changed its editor so often, that I know little more about it, than that one writer endeavoured to persuade his readers that usury was so beneficial to an infant colony, that one would have almost imagined the writer to have been a banker or money-lender: and another scribbler, who is, or had been, a convict, had a weekly lamentation because emancipated prisoners had not the benefit of enjoying the society of the free inhabitants; the absurdity of such remarks was only to be equalled by the lack of knowledge displayed in the paper generally.

The Police-office, situated in Harrington-street, is a filthy disgraceful place, and totally unfit for its purpose; a house has been taken in Elizabeth-street for a new office, but had not been made use of at the time of my departure. By a vessel which arrived in August, 1827, three officers who had belonged to the police in England were sent out; two of whom are to remain in Hobart Town, and the other to be stationed at Launceston; it is, therefore, to be hoped that a change in police matters will now take place for the better. The constabulary, with the exception of the principal, and one or two others, are, or have been, convicts; the plan of " setting a thief to catch a thief," has not been found quite so effective as was generally supposed; indeed there is little doubt that many culprits who have been able to raise the means of bribery, have been suffered to escape. It is also notorious that the sly grog-shops (as they are termed) are the very bane of the country, being the principal repositories for stolen goods, and the occupiers having a constant intercourse with, as well as giving regular pay to, a number of the worthless constabulary, so that a conviction rarely ensues even when they are found out. Since the arrival of the officers from England, however, several of these compromisers of justice have been fined, and where the party has been a ticket-of-leave man, his ticket has been taken from him, and himself incarcerated in the Penitentiary. This persevering vigilance, if continued, cannot fail to strike a death-blow to the iniquitous practices that have so long existed, and in the end ensure to the colony the most beneficial results.

At the licensing clay in September, 1827, the magistrates granted new licences to a number of publicans, and it is expected that this will be attended with considerable advantage in the suppression, by information, of many of the grog shops.

Proceeding by the banks of the river from a place called the Lumber-yard, (a lot of dilapidated sheds) at about a mile and a half distance, you arrive at a place called, originally, Hang-again Point, but now termed Loretto; it was the intention of the governor to have built himself a palace here, there being an excellent free-stone on the spot, a great, deal of which was laid out and cut ready; the plan of the house and foundations were laid, and a garden planted; but the project was eventually abandoned, owing, as I understood, to the great expenses that would have been incurred before its completion.

Returning to Hobart Town from Loretto, at the top ot Macquarrie-street, is Belle Vue, the residence of Mr. Edward Curr, the agent to the Van Diemen's Land Company, and author of an account of that colony; this gentleman has since left Belle Vue for a residence upon the company's grant at Circular-head. The breweries of Messrs. Dudgeon and Bell, and of Mr. George Gatehouse, are deserving of attention; the former (where most excellent ale is brewed) is in Macquarrie-street. Mr. Gatehouse's concern is carried on at New Town; the porter brewed by this gentleman, bids fair to rival, and eventually to render unnecessary, the importation into the colony of London porter, which is selling retail at two shillings per quart, while Mr. Gatehouse's beer, if bought in small casks adapted to the use of families, will not cost more than that sum per gallon. There are several other breweries, but none of sufficient magnitude to require particular notice. The Scotch gentlemen of the colony have established a club for the benefit of decayed or distressed country-men, under the denomination of " The St. Andrew's Charitable Institution;" but to the honour of the " land o'cakes," be it recorded, that very few of Scotia's sons are to be found among the convicts, and those who come free, except from accident or unforeseen casualty, rarely require eleemosynary assistance, the ruling principle of their country, perseverance and industry, invariably directing them to the attainment of an honest livelihood. The anniversary of their tutelar Saint day, is uniformly observed by the sober enjoyment of an excellent dinner and jovial reciprocity.— Dr. Scott is the president, and Dr. Hood the vice-president of the institution.

Persons desirous of occupying houses in Hobart Town, will find rents very exorbitant; a small cottage with only four rooms, and those of very contracted dimensions, and a kitchen at the back, will let for sixty to eighty pounds per annum; larger houses, adapted for stores, obtain from £200 to £300 per annum, in proportion to the eligibility of their situation.

Having now, I believe, noticed every place in the town deserving the reader's attention, it may not be inappropriate in conclusion, to advise all persons who intend to settle in the country, to proceed to their destination with as little loss of time as possible; for I must confess, that the people of Hobart Town are the most mercenary I ever met with, in their incessant contributions upon the stranger's pocket.

* Since my return to England, I have learnt that this paper is suppressed, and Mr. Bent again sent to gaol.

CHAPTER V.

POPULATION OF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND, STATE OF SOCIETY, &c.

THE number of inhabitants in Van Dieman's Land has been estimated so very differently, that it is almost impossible to come to an accurate conclusion, as to the extent of population; no census has ever yet been taken, nor do I think a correct one could, from the scattered situation of the houses. From various friends, who have had the best opportunities of gaining information, and whom I have consulted frequently upon the subject, and also from what I have myself seen, in various journies about the island, I should say there cannot be less than twenty thousand inhabitants, including convicts. The increase in the year 1826, was upwards of one thousand to twelve hundred, of whom six hundred and two were prisoners! (ninety-nine female, and five hundred and three male convicts). It should be remembered that, in February, 1804, the Colony was first located; and for many years subsequently it was a close port, there being no communication direct from England except for convict and other government vessels. All goods for the use of the colony were brought from Sydney,* for which place Van Diemen's Land served as a receptacle for their felons, or, as it is termed, a penal settlement: out of these desperadoes, were formed the bush-rangers, of whom I have treated in another place.

The atrocities of these people, up to the end of 1826, operated considerably in preventing respectable settlers coming to the country; it becomcs, therefore, a matter of wonder that the population is so great. The bush-rangers being now entirely suppressed, the tide of emigration has already gone into its usual channel, and steady respectable men are daily arriving as merchants or settlers; government ore also assisting them and the colony materially by the very large numbers of convicts that have been lately sent away. One of the principal inconveniences of which all complain, is the great scarcity of females; and consequently the number of births does not increase so fast as might be expected; the same remark, I believe, equally applies to Sydney; a few years, however, will no doubt obviate this cause of complaint. The prosperity of the country does not, in my opinion, so much consist in the increase of the number of its inhabitants, as in their apparent comfort and growing independence. This is the strongest proof of the respectability of the country, and the greatest inducement for the people of England to continue to send in still larger numbers, the criminal disturbers of their peace to a settlement where the ends of justice and reform are accomplished at a comparatively trifling expence.

There is much visiting going on in Hobart Town amongst the merchants' families; but I regret to say, there is not so amicable an understanding between them and the military and civil officers, as there ought to be. A stranger arriving out with letters of introduction to a few of the first merchants, soon gets introduced to the rest, and in a very short time is acquainted with all the respectable inhabitants in the place. Persons going to these colonies, are naturally anxious to get as many letters as they possibly can, for which purpose they seek for them in every channel, when it not unfrequently happens that some officious gentleman volunteers to give, or procure letters to all the first people in the island, although perhaps he never had more than a bowing acquaintance with the persons whom he pretends to be so intimate with. Therefore the emigrant will do well to take out no letters but such as are from persons of unquestionable respectability.

The politics of the colony I would particularly recommend settlers to abstain from meddling with; the inhabitants are, I regret to say, opposed to all the measures of government: the military and civil officers, as may be supposed, are on the contrary side, and between the two there is a continual paper war carried on, by means of the various newspapers; this, more than any thing else, serves to keep up the disunion. Balls, except at private houses, are not often given; two or three concerts, held at the court-house under the immediate patronage of his Excellency and Mrs. Arthur, have been very well attended. In the country the long distance that generally intervenes between the residence of one settler and another, is a bar to frequent visiting, but in those parts which I have pointed out, as being much located, the greatest hospitality exists.

In travelling across the country, the slightest introduction to a settler will always ensure a welcome reception, both for himself and horse. Some years ago it was a matter of consequence to have a friend on the road who would afford a night's lodging; now, the numerous inns supply a place of shelter and rest; but still the solitude of an inn is not altogether so pleasant as an evening spent with an agreeable companion, who can most probably also, give a new comer a great deal of useful information.

I have stated that the increase of population in the year 1826, could not be estimated at more than from one thousand to twelve hundred, of whom six hundred were convicts. It appeared, however, that the value of goods imported was in a much larger ratio. This increase, it is gratifying to know, consisted more in British goods, and articlesof clothing, than in rum and other destructive liquors, a fact that speaks much in favor of the improvement of the morals of the lower classes. I can safely assert, also, that this increase, great as it may appear when compared with the importations of 1825, was not sufficient to supply the wants of the settlers and the people generally; goods of every description were in great demand, and continued so during the whole of that year, and until July, 1827, when the arrival of four large ships, within a day or two of each other, from England with merchandize, amply supplied the colony. The imports for

I cannot pretend to account for this great increase in the consumption of goods in any other way, than by supposing that there is a general increase in the wealth of the inhabitants, who naturally would lay out their overplus money in those comforts, the deprivation of which they had been obliged to submit to, till they could turn themselves round in their farms. Having once been able to surmount the difficulties consequent upon a beginning, a settler finds things go on pretty smoothly, and, if occasionally there is a little cause for discontent, something soon turns up in another way to make amends; for instance, wheat when I left was at the miserable price of four shillings, and a dollar, per bushel; by the last advices, the crop had failed at Sydney, and consequently wheat had risen in Van Diemen's Land to twelve and fifteen shillings, and was expected to be as high as a pound.

I have stated that the increase in the import of goods was not so much in rum as in articles of comfort. The following list entered at the Customs in Hobart Town for the quarter ending December 31st, 1826, will verify the truth of this assertion:

Imported in five ships, burthen 2,615 tons.

The "sundries not enumerated," consist of goods belonging to passengers, or packages containing articles of varied description, but which however, paying no duty, it is unnecessary to detail. The only expence in landing British goods, baggage, or any thing that is not hereafter specified, is one shilling for obtaining a permit, and a small wharfage for each package, according to the size. The exports during the above period were—

There was no wheat exported this quarter from Hobart Town.

We have here again an immense sum under the head of unenumerated articles; this appears as if there was a great want of regularity in the Custom-house, and I think a little more explanation might be given. I am aware why it is thought unnecessary to go into detail, but that is not satisfactory to every one. The greater part of these goods were commodities transhipped to Sydney, and therefore being considered as going coastwise, were not deemed worth attention. A large number of sheep went also to Sydney about that time ; but still many things were shipped to the Isle of France, for the purpose of procuring return cargoes of sugar, &c. At all events, it must be confessed that both the imports and exports are put down in a loose and slovenly manner. The imports into Launceston, for the same quarter, are detailed in a much more satisfactory way, though even this is susceptible of improvement, viz.

The duty upon rum is charged at proof, as per Sykes' hydrometer, consequently the spirit in the above list was a great deal above proof. The quantities of wheat and flour exported during the same period, were very large, but no return whatever was kept of the exports, for the same sapient reason given at Hobart Town, namely, that every thing went coastwise! Spirits, tobacco and all other things chargeable with duty, are warehoused by government; when sold, they are transferred to the purchaser, who pays the duty as soon as he requires to take out his goods for consumption. The Custom-house or Naval-office, as it is termed, is in Daviesstreet, near the gaol. The Bonded Stores are under the building, at the top of the jetty, which I have described as the Government Stores.

The following will be found a correct statement of duties,* fees, &c. chargeable upon the importation of goods, &c. and on vessels arriving and clearing out:

SECRETARY'S OFFICE.

NAVAL OFFICE.

The duties on all spirits, either Colonial, British, or Foreign, are increased in proportion to strength, according to Sykes' hydrometer. On all merchandize of foreign produce or manufacture, an ad valorem duty of five per cent, upon importation, agreeably to the act of 4th George IV. cap. 96.

WHARFAGE.

Colonial produce when landed, or shipped, is not subject to any charge, except for a permit.

FEES.

TREASURER'S OFFICE.

The duty on colonial spirits is received by the treasurer.— Any merchant or other person can sell spirits in quantities of not less than five gallons, without taking out a license; the purchaser previous to taking it away, must get a permit from the police-office, for which 6d. is charged.

PILOTAGE AND HARBOUR FEES.

No charge is made for any number of inches below six; above that, one foot is charged. Colonial vessels are exempt from pilotage, unless the master make the signal for a pilot, and accept of his services. The fees of the harbourmaster for mooring and unmooring a vessel within the harbour, two cents per register ton, and the same for each removal of the ship within the harbour. Colonial vessels under eighty tons, are exempted from these fees, unless the service of the harbour-master is specifically required. No vessels are deemed colonial which are not registered in Van Diemen's Land or New South Wales.

GAOLER'S FEES.

CHIEF CONSTABLE'S FEES.

WATERMAN'S CHARGES.

The number of general merchants in Hobart Town, when I was there, did not exceed twelve or fourteen firms, but all are conducted by gentlemen of the highest respectability. The sales of European goods are generally effected by giving a certain advance upon the invoice, in proportion as goods are in demand or plentiful. This advance is seldom less than fifty per cent, and generally more. Porter, spirits, and wine, are sold at a given price, fixed by the holders of the various articles, who usually agree what they shall charge according to the supply, and bind themselves respectively not to take less than the price specified. In selling to the retail shopkeeper, the merchant takes his draft for the payment of what he buys, at three months; this bill, by procuring two more names upon the back, is discountable at the bank. The merchants charge five per cent, upon effecting sales, and a small warehouse rent for storing. For a new comer, if goods are plentiful and a sale cannot be effected but by bills, it is decidedly the best and safest plan to pay a del credere commission to the merchant, thereby avoiding the possibility of loss. Two-and-a-half per cent, is the general charge for guaranteeing a bill. Many persons sell their own goods in order to save all commission; they ought, however, to be very circumspect with whom they deal, for, though many of the shopkeepers are wealthy men, I do not know one that will not take advantage; and, certain it is, that there are many who, to obtain such a prize, will give any advance the seller may ask: the goods once in their possession, the result is that a pretended discovery is made of short measure in one package, damage by salt water in another, and so many plausible excuses for not paying, until deductions are made to such an extent, that half a dozen commissions would have been as nothing to it; and when you have at length obtained the bill, it is no very improbable event that, after all, it is not paid, particularly if it be "long vacation," as it is termed in England; in Hobart Town they say, "The court is not sitting."

Persons emigrating with two or more thousand pounds, are frequently puzzled in what way to invest it. Many recommend lodging the money in the hands of a firm in London, and taking their bills on the Colony; a very good plan no doubt for the London merchant; but, independent of having been a witness of one or two equivocal transactions, and heard of several more, I think unquestionably the safest way for emigrants is, to have their property in their own custody, either in cash or goods. The money now current in Van Diemen's Land, is nearly the same as in England; all accounts are kept in British sterling. Crowns, half-crowns, shillings, sixpences, and copper pence, are given in exchange for sovereigns and local notes of the bank. Dollars pass at 4s. 4d. each; when they can be bought at less in England, they are, of course, a good investment. Nothing is got by British coin; and, if the owner does what he ought to do, namely, insure it from sea-risk, it is a losing remittance. Upon arrival, if you pay a hundred or a thousand sovereigns into the bank, you get but the same again; there is no profit upon them whatever, nor, in my opinion, is there likely to be any. In the month of January, 1827, the Success frigate, arrived from England, with gold and silver coin for the use of the Colony, in order to carry into effect the order in council of the governor, for abolishing all currency accounts, and resolving them into British sterling. It may be safely remarked, that so long as the present state of things continue in Europe, and the merchants can get treasury and other bills in Van Diemen's Land, wherewith to make their remittances, the alarmists need be under no apprehension that the specie will disappear. As regards the investing of capital in goods, if they are purchased at reasonable prices, and such commodities selected as are suitable for the Colony, there can be no doubt as to the result; I should, myself, lay out the whole of my money in an investment, were I going out again. Goods, properly selected, are sure of sale. If the market be over-glutted, on your arrival, you are not compelled to an immediate sale; and, when it is known how many things are brought out totally unsuitable, and consequently unsaleable, customers will seldom be wanted to treat for a well-chosen invoice.

Presuming a person means to settle as an agriculturist, and having, in a previous chapter, recommended his going himself in search of land, he can leave one invoice of his investment with his merchant, and take a copy with him; he will find plenty of individuals who will exchange sheep, cattle, or any thing they have, for an assortment of goods. A farm with a house upon it, may be readily procured in barter, if one can be found suitable for taking the location which the new settler is entitled to, in right of the property that he has brought into the Colony. On the presumption, therefore, that some individuals may be induced to invest, at any rate, a part of their funds in goods, I will proceed to give a detail of such articles, as may be said to be, more or less, constantly in demand:—

Slops—Strong corduroy jackets and trowsers, narrow-striped blue shirts, shirts of all sorts both for convicts and better people, ladies and gentlemen's gloves, ribbons, baby linen, and children's clothes of all kinds, millinery, thread lace, a few ready-made clothes of a good description, men and women's fine cotton stockings.

Ironmongery—Cast-iron cart boxes, cart arms, tire, flour sieves, nail, rod, and bolt iron, sbear-steel, iron teakettles, sauce-pans, shingle, batten, and paling nails, saws, spades, axes, bullock chains, harrow-tines (large), cutlery.

Miscellaneous.—Earthenware, Snuffs, tobacco, paints, brushes, hats (superfine), stationary, linseed oil (boiled).

Rum—As much over-proof as it can be procured.

Spirits—Generally, ditto.

Wine—Of low price, but of fair quality.

Supposing the emigrant is not desirous of embarking his capital in goods for sale, it is still necessary to take out certain articles for his own immediate use as an agriculturist. The following list will, I believe, be found to contain every thing requisite both for farming and domestic purposes:

For Domestic Use—Iron pots with legs, large and small sizes; large and small tea-kettles, frying-pans, scales and weights, steel-yard, delf of all descriptions, liqueur and goblets, decanters, and glasses, time-piece, milk tins, and utensils for dairy, tin-ware of all descriptions, tin pannikins for prisoners, bedsteads (not large), flour sieves, looking-glasses, linen for family wearing-apparel, (packed in tin), soap and candles, one or two sets of knives and forks, butchers' ditto, steel and cleaver, hats, gloves, and fur caps, writing-paper, quills and ink, blacking, brushes, &c., small quantity of brandy, saddle and bridle, collection of useful and amusing books:— White's and Clayter's Farriery, Loudon's Encyclopædia of Agriculture, British Farmer's quarterly Magazine (a very useful publication); a very small quantity of plate (article plated on steel last much longer in Tasmania), good double gun, and pair of pistols, gunpowder and shot, bullet-moulds, glass for windows (ready cut), 12-10 or 14-12: slops assorted for prisoners.

Implements of agriculture, and the different purposes of a settler—The iron-work of two or three ploughs (made strong), iron axles, boxes and tire for two or more carts, iron safe, tires for large and small harrows, strong timber chain and bullock chains, cross-cut saws, with up and down teeth (several sets), pit saws of various sizes, wedges assorted, and maul rings (a good stock of them well headed with steel), felling-axes, mortising ditto, knives for splitting paling, shingles, and laths; two dozen strong spades, one ditto shovels, one ditto large potato hoes, half-dozen garden hoes, half-dozen garden and large iron rakes, corn drag, one dozen good sickles, one dozen scythes, a chest of useful (carpenter's) tools, a dozen of American augers, one dozen sheep-shears, locks, bolts, HL and H and Thinges, and other requisites for a house, padlocks, strong hookand-eye hinges for barn and stable doors, two good crow-bars, an assortment of rod, bar, and flat iron, nailmoulds of useful sizes, winnowing machine with extra sieves, forks assorted for farm use. [The patterns of the above articles, and a constant supply, may be always seen and bought at Messrs. Richards and Wood's, Martin's-lane, Cannon-street, London.] Six dozen jacks, tarpauling, winnow sheets, bushels and scuttles.

According to the settler's means, these things may be increased or omitted; the freight is a great consideration: but the articles I have named, in consequence of their being more essentially necessary, are generally very dear. A man with small means, will select such as appear to him most useful; and in packing them for sea, every attention should be paid as to stowing one thing within another, so as to diminish the freight.

There are many other things that I could enumerate as being regularly saleable, but I now merely put down such articles as the new settler can dispose of almost immediately after his arrival, either in barter or upon sale. If your vessel touch at the Brazils, you will, of course, purchase tobacco there; as to sugar, I think, upon the whole, unless it be very cheap and you can get it carried at a small freight, you had better have nothing to do with it: it is brought from the Mauritius at so low a price, and there is frequently such a large importation of it, that it is very often heavy of sale.

In the purchase of ironmongery, it is necessary to be very particular as to the description, sizes, and quality; what you want, therefore, should be procured of a person who well knows the market; if the things are not the patterns in use, thev will not be even looked at much loss purchased.*

One of the greatest sources of wealth to which both these Colonies may look forward to the possession of, is the whale fishery. A company was formed in 1826, for the purpose of carrying on this business, but there was not a great deal done: one or two other firms have since been formed, and last year the fishery was conducted with much spirit, and with a very favorable result; a great many fish having been taken, which, of course, produced a large quantity of oil. None of the parties yet engaged in the fishery, have more than a small sloop each, (just to enable them to fetch the oil up to town), although all have several whale-boats. When the situation of the Derwent is considered, it appears strange that more has not been done in this branch; but from want of larger vessels, the fishing is almost exclusively confined to Frederick Hendrick's Bay, near Maria Island; and here frequently are to be found so many boats, that upon one of them striking a fish, accidents frequently occur from the eagerness displayed by the numerous competitors to obtain a share, and which very often terminates in the escape of the whale. These enormous fish are occasionally seen up the Derwent as high as Hobart Town, and one, I have been credibly informed, has been taken as high as New Norfolk. The fitting-out of a vessel in the Colony, sufficiently large for this trade, is a work of great expense, and from the nature of the crews you are compelled to take, piracies frequently occur. It appears to me somewhat singular, that so many convict vessels coming out, most of which are obliged to go to Batavia or some other place for a cargo home, it should never have occurred to the owners to turn their attention to this trade.

In my view of Hobart Town, I mentioned the Scotch Australian Company's Store, upon the jetty; when this concern was established in 1822, it was supposed their attention would have been directed to the exports from Tasmania, and that, consequently, the whale fishery would have claimed a prominent consideration. They have, however, hitherto confined themselves to the importation and sales of European goods, principally Scotch, and are regarded in no other light than other merchants, and possessing much less enterprize than many. They have now constantly employed four fine vessels, making together 1684 tons register; all of which are obliged to go to some other port for a return cargo. The greatest benefit they have conferred upon the Colony, has been in encouraging the migration of industrious artizans and their families from Scotland as settlers, and for this they certainly deserve all due praise.

Until the establishment of the bank in Macquarne-street, in January, 1824, the currency of the country was in a most disordered state; of specie there was scarcely any, every thing being managed by notes of hand of the tradesmen, payable on demand: this crazy description of circulating medium pervaded the whole country, beginning at the low rate of two-pence, and gradually ascending by numerous intermediate amounts, up to the payment of several pounds. As soon, however, as the bank was put into operation, the paper currency gradually withdrew; there are still some afloat, but generally on presenting them for payment to the persons whose names they bear, the holder is informed that the note is a forgery, and payment is refused; from this it may be inferred, what a precious concern it must have been, when in full play some years ago; but still every body took them for the reason that they themselves were issuers, and if any one refused his neighbour's note, it might have generated such a feeling of ill blood, as to cause an immediate run upon his shop, the consequence of which would have been that, unless the holders would take their demands in whatever article the bank-note manufacturer had to vend, there would have been what is termed in most commercial countries, a suspension; but this event was not very likely to happen, for though sometimes squabbles ensued, like Peachum and Lockit in the play, a most cordial reconciliation soon took place, and the parties went on in their old system of gulling the public. The bank, however, as soon as it was in operation, almost immediately altered the face of things. The capital subscribed was 40,000 dollars, in 200 shares of 200 $ each, as a joint stock company, with a right to every subscriber to sell or transfer. Further capital to be raised, if required; and no person to hold more than five shares: interest to be charged upon discounting bills at the rate of ten per cent, per annum; no bill to have more than three months to run, and to have at least three ostensible names upon it. There are many other laws as to the choice of directors, governors, &c., but it will be clearly seen that at first starting, and being anxious to have their names put down from the novelty of the thing, as from the idea of profit, almost every person of respectability in the island became proprietors—a circumstance highly favorable, inasmuch as it obviates all apprehension of any run upon the concern. Supposing they had not a dollar in the chest, their notes would still circulate amongst the public so long as the directors would take them back, and pass them to the credit of the party paying them in. The last half-yearly dividend was a trifle above 12 per cent, and the one before it rather more; that is, near 25 per cent, per annum. So long as this interest can be paid, there will of course be no want of purchasers of shares, as far as is allowed; and as the private property of every individual, who is a holder of shares, is liable to the debts of the concern, there can be little doubt of its stability. I have seen a prospectus of a new bank, to be called the Derwent; it is got up, I believe, principally by the government and military officers. I am at a loss to conceive where the establishment is to get customers, unless it reduces the rate of discount, an experiment which I should think, would not answer. There is a private bank in Davey-street, conducted by Messrs. Gillibrand, (father and son; the latter is the exattorney-general) but they do very little business. A person conversant in business in England will naturally feel astonished at the very high rate of interest charged by the bank; but as there are no usury laws, every one charges what he thinks the borrower must be compelled to give, and thirty per cent, is by no means an uncommon rate, not only to ask, but to obtain, and even then the unfortunate debtor cannot effect the negotiation without giving good security. I know an instance of a settler borrowing a sum of money for three years on the following exorbitant conditions: the lender took the security of a house in which he was to live rent free until the period when the loan became due, when he was to receive double the amount lent, or the house and grant of land it stood upon, (having a large garden, &c.) were to be forfeited: thus receiving thirty-three and one-third per cent per annum for the loan, with the use of a house worth £130 a-year rent. The poor mortgager, as may be expected, never could pay up the advance with the interest, consequently the party availed himself of his grinding conditions, and is now the proprietor of the forfeited security. In reference to this transaction, the editor of one of the papers argued, that money was a commodity, and the party having it had the same right to sell it at the best price, as any shopkeeper to get the most he could for his merchandize. The cases, in my humble opinion, are very different; for, in every well-regulated government we find it has always been deemed wise policy to enact laws against usury; and in no country are they more wanted than in Van Diemen's Land, composed, as a great part of the population is, of ignorant people who, provided they can muster a few pounds to go on with, will not scruple to sign their names to any instrument. There certainly ought to be laws to protect such individuals from the rapacity of those who have mostly acquired their property by defrauding the necessitous and the unwary.

The following occurrences in Van Diemen's Land in 1827, may form an appropriate conclusion to this chapter.

January 5, 1827.—Colonial Government Notice, orders all persons to give an account of the behaviour of their convict servants annually; also, what number each settler has.

February 26, 1827.—Orders all locaters of town grants to build their houses in such a way as to leave 60 feet for carriage and foot roads.

May 16, 1827.—General Order from the Horse Guards, encouraging half-pay officers to emigrate under certain conditions.

August 29, 1827.—When prisoners are recommended by their masters as deserving tickets of leave, the master to have a new servant assigned with all despatch.

September 15, 1827.—An Act for further putting down sly grog-shops; also for imposing the following duties:—stamp on each newspaper, 2d.; license for printing, 20s. per annum; publishing, 20s. per annum.

September 19, 1827.—No one entitled to a ticket, unless for good behaviour; length of service of no avail.

September 22, 1827.—An Act of Council passed for the registering of deeds, wills, judgments and conveyances.

October 2, 1827.—Notification to all prisoners who are at large, that they are liable to the punishment of death, without benefit: persons rescuing, conveying away or disguising, lending arms, or in any way assisting such offenders, to be punished the same as if the prisoner had been in a gaol.

* The price of goods, imported in this circuitous way, was such as naturally to deter settlers from coming to the place, besides the additional terror of expecting every night, on going to bed, to be robbed or murdered before morning. Some idea of the retail shopkeepers' charges may be formed from what a friend of mine told me he paid, in the year 1821, for a tooth-brush: there was but one shop in the town where the article was to be obtained, and the vender had the modesty to charge one guinea for it. The thrifty shopkeeper is still alive, and, as may be readily supposed with such inordinate profits, has contrived to realize a pretty handsome fortune. There are now, however, ten shops to every one that existed at that time, and yet let any one of the present occupiers have the monopoly of a given article, in demand, and the assurance with which they name their price, can only be equalled by the extortion of the demand.

* Since the above was written, the author has received intelligence from the colonies, which inform him of the unpopular and highly injudicious measure, published in March last, announcing an increase, amounting to ten per cent duty on all merchandise imported from Great Britain, as well as other parts of the world.

* The author believes he cannot introduce in a more appropriate part of his work, the name of an individual (Mr. Cross, Printseller, of Holborn), from whom much useful information may be gleaned by individuals who contemplate a voyage to either Colonies. Mr. Cross is in regular communication with some of the leading-commercial houses at Sydney; and is, besides, constantly in possession of interesting facts and local novelties not to be met with elsewhere. The author has the more pleasure in announcing this to his readers, because the inquiries of visitors are invariably received with marked civility, and a willing disposition to be of service. We understand Mr. Cross is making arrangements to keep a file of the Sydney Gazette in his shop, for public inspection.

CHAPTER VI.

FORM OF GOVERNMENT.

UNTIL lately, Van Diemen's Land was subject to the authority of a lieutenant-governor, under the jurisdiction of the governor of New South Wales. No doubt, in the origin of the colony this was not only necessary, but for the furtherance of justice, and for other reasons equally cogent. Composed as the population was from the taking possession of the place and for many years after, the bringing air offender to punishment for any crime would have been impossible, unless a respectable person could have sworn he saw it perpetrated, and even then, an attempt to establish an alibi would have been made, which if good round swearing, with plenty of witnesses, could have effected, there was no doubt of the result of the trial. Sending culprits to Sydney, although attended with great trouble, loss of time, and expence to witnesses and others, was therefore absolutely necessary: the unwillingness to prosecute on the part of individuals who had suffered by depredations, naturally led to the impunity of numerous offenders. As population extended, both numerically and in respectability, the old system required amelioration; and consequently, on the 14th June, 1825, a proclamation was issued by his Britannic Majesty, conferring independence on Van Diemen's Land and the islands adjacent, and giving power to Colonel George Arthur, to act without reference to the first governor, General Sir Ralph Darling, during such periods as he might be absent at Sydney or elsewhere: courts of law were also instituted upon the same principle as those at Botany Bay, of which John Lewis Pedder, Esq. was made chief justice, assisted by John Tyce Gillibrand, Esq., as attorney-general. On the 12th of December, 1825, Colonel Arthur's first proclamation was issued, announcing the departure of General Darling from the island on the 6th of that month, and the consequent investiture of himself with the reins of government; this official document appointed various officers to different situations, and called upon the officers and ministers, civil and military, as well as the inhabitants generally, to obey such orders as he might, from time to time, deem necessary to issue. His Excellency is assisted in carrying on the business of government, by an executive and legislative council. The first of these, composed of four members and a clerk, consists entirely of civil officers, namely, the chief justice, the colonial secretary, and treasurer, and the police magistrate, with the governor as president over the four; who is, upon all occasions of moment, under the necessity of conferring with this council, but has still the power of adopting or rejecting their measures, and acting upon his own opinion, as he may think fit; assigning, however, his reasons in writing, to the home government.

It may appear strange at first sight, to appoint a body to give advice to an official officer, who, at the same time, is allowed to act upon his own opinion if he chooses; it however, has its advantages, for should the council oppose the acts of the governor, whether right or wrong, from personal animosity, or any other cause, he can release himself of that opposition, though, of course, at the risk of incurring a heavy responsibility. The council, it must be admitted, are frequently a salutary check upon the governor, when any necessary act is required to be carried into effect, which may be unpopular to the great body of the people; but, being sanctioned by the governor in council, the measure is more respected and deferred to; other reasons, equally obvious, exist in support of this branch of administration being constituted as it is. The legislative council consists of seven members, three of whom (at the time of my leaving) were also in the executive council, namely, the chief justice, the colonial secretary, and police magistrate; the other four members were, M. H. Hamilton, Esq. police magistrate at New Norfolk, and late acting colonial secretary; Thomas Ansley, Esq., police magistrate at Jericho; Thomas Archer, Esq. of Woolmers, near Launceston (the two latter gentlemen are extensive agriculturists); and Edward Curr, Esq. secretary to the Van Diemen's Land Company. In these gentlemen are vested the power to impose taxes and pass laws. It will be seen that whilst the agriculturists have two members in this council to support their interests, and that even a private company can manage to get their secretary (a member), to look after their welfare, the mercantile community is totally unrepresented; this has been one of the great causes of complaint of that body, and certainly not without reason. The appointment of so many individuals, who receive pensions from government, has also been a just source of complaint with the mercantile people. With the exception of Mr. Archer and Mr. Curr, every member of the legislative council has a large salary for services employed either in the police or some other department. The members of this assembly are sworn to secresy, so that no one in the Colony but themselves know what are the subjects under discussion, until the Gazette publishes to the world the result of their lucubrations. The distaste to this secret convocation, led the principal inhabitants, in March, 1827, to call upon the sheriff, Mr. Feriday, to convoke a meeting of the colonists generally, to petition the King and both Houses of Parliament, to grant them "trial by jury, and legislation by representation." The meeting was held in the Courthouse, when some very excellent speeches were made upon the subject by various merchants and others, and an address was drawn up, which in a few days (although the petition was not even sent into the country or to Launceston) was signed by almost every free person in the town and neighbourhood. A deputation was appointed to attend upon his Excellency, for the purpose of humbly soliciting his kind interference in forwarding the petition to his Majesty. A time was appointed, through the medium of the sheriff, when his Excellency would receive the deputation; at the hour agreed upon, the party attended, and, after waiting a considerable time, were informed that the governor was engaged! As the representatives of the whole body of the people, they thought themselves entitled to a more courteous reception, and immediately retired, but had been gone very few minutes when a messenger was sent, begging they would return, which was declined. The petition was forwarded through another channel, by the ship Hugh Crawford, which was just on the point of sailing. This circumstance, as may be supposed, gave rise for a time to a great deal of angry discussion in the colonial journals, in which not a little acrimony was displayed by the conflicting parties.

Of my own opinion as to the merits of the petition, I think in common with many others, that the country is not yet in a fit state for trials to be carried on in any way different from the mode at present pursued. A jury of twelve free and unbiassed men, is no doubt the brightest excellence of jurisprudence; but, when we regard the almost infant state of this Colony, and reflect upon the condition of the original colonists, and what they continued to be for many years, it must be acknowledged that it would be premature as yet to introduce such an institution as trial by jury. In another point of view it is also objectionable; it may suit the inhabitant of Hobart Town, who is loitering about the streets half the day, to serve upon a jury; but as a few at least of the body, must be selected from the country, how would it agree with their pursuits to leave their home and property to the mercy of convict servants? I am inclined to believe it would present a source for increasing the lists of criminals to such an extent, that what between the characters of jurymen, prosecutors, and witnesses, one half the year would be spent at the assizes for the different counties. The consequences that would result to the farms by these occasional absences, may be easily imagined; indeed this, with the expences of an inn in town, would very soon induce the country gentlemen to wish the business of the courts were put upon the old footing, in spite of all that town friends could say in praise of the new order of things. The present mode of trial is, in criminal cases, before the Chief Justice, and a jury composed of seven military or naval officers, appointed by his Excellency's precept. In civil cases, the judge also presides, aided by two magistrates of the Colony as assessors, appointed as in criminal cases. Both plaintiff and defendant, if they agree, are at liberty to apply for a jury of twelve men; but no person is allowed to serve upon a jury, unless he possess a freehold estate of at least fifty acres of cleared land, or freehold premises worth £300 or upwards in the Colony.

During the period of my residence in the Colony, the right of a trial by jury, in the manner here mentioned, was never once put in requisition, although many very important trials took place during my stay. The duties of a grand jury are performed by the Attorney-General; all examinations and informations from the Police-office are sent to him, and he draws out the indictment; in difficult or dubious cases, he is assisted by the Solicitor-General. The magistrates, in the various districts, were formerly, as in England, unpaid; but were allowed a small stipend for the purpose of maintaining a constable, and some other incidental expences. There are now seven police magistrates at a salary of £400 a-year each. The unpaid magistrates still retain the title, but are quite inefficient; in fact, they purposely throw all the trouble into the hands of the stipendiary justices.

Of representative legislation in the present state of the Colony, I have quite as bad an opinion as of trial by jury. If the legislative council were made an open court, with one member of the various classes of the community, to represent the interest of the body with whom he is himself connected, as far as the limited number of the council will allow, I am ready to admit the laws of the country might be framed better; at any rate, there would be more satisfaction given to the body of the people.

I have stated that there is nota single individual to represent the mercantile interest in the council; whilst the agricultural interest, in Mr. Ansley and Mr. Archer, never can want support; not only indeed the personal support of these two gentlemen, but every other individual in office (except the Chief Judge and Colonial Secretary) having grants of land, will naturally do all in their power to support the farmer. With a little alteration in respect to forming the council, there would be no necessity for further changes. As to the wished-for elective franchise, iifty to sixty years hence will be time enough to think about that. At the meeting in Hobart Town, of which I have spoken, this feeling, though certainly not the predominant one, had many advocates: the vox populi was, as usual upon such occasions, overwhelming. How the petitions were listened to in the British senate, I have yet to learn.

CHAPTER VII.

OF CONVICTS, THEIR TREATMENT, &c.

PREVIOUS to an emigrant's leaving England, one of the most serious questions for his consideration, is the management of the convicts. All settlers are aware, that unless they take servants with them, they must have, either prisoners assigned to them, or at most exorbitant wages, have people who are become free from the term of their sentence having expired; or, prisoners holding tickets of leave; from these several classes alone, the choice of servants must be made. I will endeavour, to the best of my ability, to point out the different and most preferable modes of acting. In the first place, a free-servant taken from England, incurs, at the very onset, a serious expense in passage-money, and the requisite advances for clothes, &c. Few servants, either male or female, of unexceptionable character, like to go abroad, and more particularly to such distant colonies. A voyage to "Botany Bay," has something too startling in the sound, to win the inclinations of persons in this class of life. London servants are of but little use; and country people from a large village, suddenly commingling in such scenes as are common on shipboard, soon acquire dissolute habits; the idea of apeing the sailor takes possession of them, and the quiet bumpkin soon becomes a noisy blustering drunkard: if he remains immaculate on board, he no sooner lands, than some of the convicts seeing him a " fresh man," set him down as a fellow that may be made useful; and tempt him into carousals, for which, of couise, the oaf pays; if he escapes without being robbed, it is most likely because lus new companions have some scheme in their heads of besetting him in another way, by inciting him to rob his master, or telling him where he may get better wages than he has agreed for in England. Roguery of this kind is sure to be acquired, and, in a month or two, the servant asks of his employers an advance of wages, and on refusal, quietly replies, that " he shall leave." On taking him before a magistrate, and producing the agreement between master and servant, if he still prove refractory and will not return to his work, he is sent for a month or two to gaol; where he finds ample leisure and competent instructors to finish him in any roguery he was previously deficient in. This, and much more might be added, as regards the male servants.

The females I regret to say, turn out very little better; and it too frequently happens, that after having been at considerable expence and trouble in bringing them out, you are eventually compelled to resort to prisoners. This may appear a somewhat sweeping charge against the free servants; but though I am willing to allow there may be exceptions, yet I verily believe they do not exist in a greater ratio than as one in twenty.

The next description of servant is the one which is free by servitude; and who has the modesty to ask 10s., 15s., and even 20s. a-week wages, in addition to his board and lodging; and on receiving a reproval for any acts of drunkenness or disturbance in your house, it is no unusual thing to be told that he is as free as you are; a species of audacity that frequently terminates in his leaving your employment during harvest, or some other equally important period. Nor are you much better off with ticket-of-leave servants, who will ask the same wages as the free man; but with this difference, that you have a check upon them in case of misconduct, a representation of which to the proper authorities, will deprive them of their ticket, and they are again reduced to the situation of convict servants, of whom I will proceed to speak.

Upon being assigned, before they are sent to their employer, they are provided at his expence with a suit of clothes, a shirt and shoes, the cost of which (from the government, who supply them on first going out) is one guinea. On their arrival from England, the prisoners are informed by the governor what they are expected to do in the way of labour, and what punishments will be inflicted for misconduct; the reward of good behaviour—such as tickets of leave and other indulgences—are explained to them, and in case of ill-treatment from their employers, they are directed to apply to the nearest magistrate in their district, who is bound to hear their complaint, and obtain for them proper redress. The following are the weekly rations to which every prisoner is by law entitled, viz.—10½lbs. of meat, 10½lbs. of flour, 7oz. of sugar, 3½oz. of soap, 2oz. of salt.

Any additional quantity is left at the discretion of the master; tea and tobacco may also, under special circumstances, be given. The prisoner is entitled to have, at his master's expence, besides the clothes already mentioned as necessary on his first engagement, two suits of woollen clothing, three pair of stock-keeper's boots, four shirts, and a cap or hat every year: for sleeping articles, a palliass or.bedding which is stuffed with wool, two blankets and a rug, which are required every three years. This supply of food and clothing, with comfortable lodging, and medicine in case of illness, being deemed quite sufficient for all purposes, no wages is demanded, and the settler is strongly recommended to give none; many, however, (I think in a mistaken liberality) give their men regularly two ounces of tobacco and three ounces of tea, extending also the allowance of sugar to twelve ounces; it may be very well to give tea and tobacco, as an encouragement to good conduct in the manner I have stated, but there is a danger that the custom may, in the opinion of the prisoners, eventually become as much a right as the government rations, and clamoured for accordingly. I have heard of some settlers who, for a short time, went upon the system of an English farm-house, namely, cooking what they deemed sufficient for the men servants, and then making them all dine together; but this practice only excited dissatisfaction and grumbling, for notwithstanding there might be three or four pounds of meat left after the repast, the men would still declare they had not had "their rights" as they termed it, merely because they had not seen the rations weighed. Another cause of complaint I have no doubt was, their being compelled to dine together at a fixed hour, their habits of life being irregular, and always preferring to drop into their hut just when it suits their convenience, to eat their meat upon a piece of " damper" instead of a plate, and afterwards to loiter away an hour or two in smoking. The advantage of having them all together at a meal, enables the master to send them away to the field in a body, and when there, their conduct is under the immediate supervision of the overseer. One of the best reasons for making: tea and tobacco an indulgence is, that by reserving the right of stopping these articles, you impose a much more effective mode of punishment for ill conduct than getting the delinquents flogged, and certainly more consistent with humanity than constantly scarifying their backs. Another, and perhaps the greatest stimulus to extra labour, is the promise of a little rum, in the hope of obtaining which, work is performed with almost incredible dispatch. To the settler who may read this, I trust it will appear obvious, that the proper management of these people must depend entirely upon himself; kindness and conciliation will effect wonders with even this abandoned race; in proof of which I have a friend who has been long a resident in the country where he is a magistrate, who never yet has had a servant of his own flogged, or in any way punished, and yet no man's house and land, with every thing else upon his estate, can be in better order. There are others, on the contrary, who are incessantly reporting their servants; which ends in the flagellation of the offenders, who almost invariably return, intent upon the perpetration of some revengeful act, till at last, having become incorrigible, they are sent either to Maria Island, or Macquarrie-harbour.

The regular hours of work are from sun-rise to sun-set; but so few settlers get up to see that this time is kept, that a much shorter period is generally employed in labour. The expence of maintaining a convict is rather a difficult calculation; where there are many men, they are, of course, supported at much less per man than where there are but few, from being able to buy slop clothes, tea, and the other necessaries at wholesale prices, of the importing merchant. The waste, also, made by the convicts in their meat, 8tc., is a serious consideration: the head and entrails of animals slaughtered for their use, and which an English labourer would be glad of, are thrown away as only fit for the dogs; nothing but the body and legs are deemed sufficiently good for these dainty characters. Taking all expences into consideration, I think that from £25 to £30 per man, may be estimated as the annual cost; this calculation is made as applicable only to such settlers as have sheep and cattle of their own, and whose meat ought not to stand them in more than three pence a-pound; those who buy at a higher price, must, of course, consider all above as matter of additional calculation.

The female prisoners, as I have already said, can only be assigned to such persons as are married. Upon arrival at their new masters, they are taken into the house and expected to be treated with as much care and consideration, as women-servants are in England; the settler, previous to their going to him, is obliged to sign a bond, enjoining that the woman shall sleep every night in his house; thus manifesting on the part of government a praiseworthy attention to the moral welfare of these fallen creatures; and it is gratifying to know, that in numerous instances, this laudable precaution is attended with the most beneficial results.

I have stated it, as my opinion, that the male prisoners should not have money given to them as wages; but as regards the women, who have no allowance for clothing, a small stipend should certainly be awarded for that purpose; in a pecuniary sense, this will be a trifling consideration in a respectable family, where the desire of seeing a female decently attired, will always induce the mistress to find her in becoming apparel.

It may now, perhaps, be deemed not irrelevant to mention the treatment of convicts from the time of their leaving England, viz. during their passage on board ship. Every attention, compatible with security, is paid to their health and comfort; the rations, which are of the best quality and most abundant, consist of bread, beef, pork and plum-pudding, and occasionally pea soup for dinner and supper. For breakfast they have biscuits, burgou with sugar and butter in it. Vinegar and lime-juice, as anti-scorbutics, are served out once a week; a small allowance of wine, too, is occasionally distributed in case of need, and one hundred and forty gallons of water are put on board for each man, being an allowance of three quarts daily. This provision, with good clothing, medicines, a stove between decks, and many other requisites, render the voyages of these people much more comfortable in a general way, than free steerage passengers experience on board a merchant vessel. I have spoken to many gentlemen who have come out in the situation of medical officers in convict ships, and they almost uniformly agree, that the rations are much more abundant than necessary. Why then, it may be asked, are they allowed so much? I can only reply by supposing that the practice obtains, to quiet a certain set denominated (ironically, I presume), "The Saints," who would not lose sight of an opportunity to send forth their wailings, if these violaters of their country's laws did not fare as well as the steerage passengers of a first-rate trader.

On the arrival of the vessel at her port of destination, she is visited by the police-magistrate, colonial secretary, and principal superintendant of convicts; the prisoners are mustered in detachments, when their names, description, term of sentence, and every other particular are carefully noted down, so that they may be identified in case of desertion. They are individually asked if they have any complaint to make against the captain, doctor, or any other person during the voyage; if a charge is made, enquiry is directly instituted, and the aggressor, if found guilty, is punished by fine or imprisonment; as may be presumed, the prisoners with such "a chance", as they call it, seldom fail to make complaint enough, but which, on investigation, has generally terminated in its dismissal as frivolous, or false in toto. The male prisoners are then marched up to the Penitentiary, and the females to the factory, when in due time they are assigned to various applicants. Previous to departing for their respective situations, as I have before stated, they are inspected by the governor, and the. duty they will have to perform, seriously explained to them. On arrival at their master's residence, they are sent to the hut, and next morning put to such work as they may be thought best competent to; if they are insolent or idle, the magistrate of the district, before whom you must take them, orders them, on the charge being proved, to be well flogged; a second complaint subjects them to a severer castigation, and most probably a slight service in the chain-gang, which is employed in breaking stones upon the high road; should they be still inflexible, they are then returned to the Penitentiary as incorrigible, where a further punishment is inflicted, or perhaps transportation for a certain period to a penal settlement. The punishment of the chain-gang is tolerably heavy, those who compose it being compelled to work from six in the morning until dusk in the evening, and having only one hour for breakfast, and another for dinner; their allowance of meat is much less than what they would get in a service, and their drink is water; the person who acts as overseer, has a cane which he employs if he sees any idlers, and a single word of complaint from him gets the offenders an immediate flogging. Until a few months back, working in the chain-gang was thought lightly of, as the prisoners who were at large were in the habit of supplying the gang with rum, tobacco, or any thing else. The case, however, is now somewhat different; for a prisoner who is seen speaking to any of the gang may depend upon having an immediate share of his friends' society; a pair of irons are found for him, and his back being doomed to receive a few lashes, he pays the penalty of his offence by mending the roads for a month or two. The consequence of this severity is, that instead of laughing and daring their masters to punish them, a great deal more work is done with less impudence, the candidates for the chain-gang being generally of the class of that abandoned set of villains who are reckless of all reformation. The " fair penitents" who misbehave themselves in the situations to which they have been assigned (despite of Mrs. Fry's attempts to reform them), are returned to the factory, to be dealt with accordingly.

On the 21st August, 1826, there was an act especially made for these women, empowering any justice of the peace to punish an offender, either by solitary confinement on bread and water, for a term not exceeding fourteen days, or confinement to hard labour for a period not exceeding three months. The superintendant of convicts can inflict the same punishments; neither of these sentences, however, were heeded by the ladies. By making apertures in the wall, they succeeded in holding dialogues with their numerous friends in the street, who no doubt supplied them with something better than bread and water. Their labour, (if so it can be called) consisted of walking up and down the yard all day, until they were tired, when select coteries were formed for conversations in various parts of the establishment. This state of things gave much pain to the Rev. Mr. Bedford, who hit upon' an expedient, of which we read on another occasion; but instead of Dalilah shaving Sampson, the Rev. Reformer ordered the flowing hair of the fair Dalilahs to be closely cut off; whether the plan has succeeded in reforming them or not, I am unable to say; it was at any rate a better mode of punishment than the other in use for refractory women. This torture (for it deserves no better name) consists of a heavy iron collar, made fast round the neck; from this, pointing different ways, are four irons, each about ten inches long, 'the consequence is, those doomed to wear the collar cannot lie down without risk of dislocating their necks. The only argument that can be brought forward for using such an abominable engine is the depravity of the characters whom it is necessary to keep in proper subjection. I am perfectly aware that it must be a business of no little difficulty, but a less barbarous mode of discipline would, I think, effect more than this mode of punishment. The sentence awarded is imprisonment and hard labour. The culprits are handed over to the superintendant of the factory in pursuance of the commitment, the magistrate at the same time knowing there is no labour at all to be done. If a woman is not a very depraved character, and only goes in for a slight offence, or perhaps is merely in transitû from one situation, until she is assigned to another, she is obliged from want of classification, to herd with the most abandoned, who take a pride, (when they see a girl, who whatever her crime might have been, seems desirous of being thought reformed in some degree) in using the vilest language, forcing her to smoke, and in short, to make her in every way as bad as themselves. The want of room in the factory totally precludes the possibility of putting the prisoners to any sort of work. As government has now taken a place a little way out of town for the purpose of establishing a new prison for the females, the " collar torture" will, I trust, be laid aside, and such a system adopted, that when a sentence of hard labour is directed, it may be carried into full effect. Many of the female prisoners who behave themselves properly get married, sometimes even to free men; it too frequently happens, however, that the rum bottle indulged in too freely in their younger days, becomes an indispensable want, and then adieu to every thing like comfort; the husband gets disgusted at finding his house a scene of riot and drunkenness, flies to some other abode, and probably to drive away care, at last becomes as bad as his Worthless spouse; on the contrary, if, repenting of her misconduct, the woman keeps herself sober, a peaceful home, with a contented happy husband and children, is the ultimate lot of the formerly abandoned profligate street-walker. The act of marrying a free man makes the prisoner, though not exactly free herself, very nearly so; she is assigned to her husband with whom she resides, and is at liberty to go to any part, but not to go out of the island; her children by the marriage, are, of course, free. Some few years since some individuals in London, obtained leave from government to send out twelve young women, who had been tried for slight offences and acquitted. It appears that these women, previous to their trials, having the fear of transportation before their eyes, promised if they were acquitted, that they would, on permission being obtained, go out as volunteers; they were taken at their words, and accordingly sent out, remaining during the voyage apart from the prisoners, in cabins fitted up for them. On their arrival, and their history becoming known, they were designated with the title of the " Twelve Apostles," and a most worthless set they turned out; their employers had no control over them, they left their places just as it suited them, got married, as a blind, to any vagabond prisoner that offered, for the sole purpose of setting up sly grog shops, or houses of a still more immoral character. Had these women been sentenced to seven years' transportation, they might possibly have done much better; being all young and many of them good-looking, they might also have married well; but I have not heard that the experiment of sending out more females under similar circumstances has been repeated.

In November, 1822, a general order was issued regulating the terms of granting tickets of leave; it was, however, a mere nominal affair—proper certificates from a man's employers and keeping his name out of the black book at the police-office, are the best, indeed, I may say, the only means of getting a ticket; which when obtained, the party holding it, enjoys almost all the privileges of freedom during good behaviour; he is enabled to set up in business or obtain his living in any way he likes. Emancipation is also a further indulgence, which the governor has the power to grant, and which, unlike a ticket, cannot be revoked; but the emancipist may not leave the colony; a free pardon allows its possessor to return home. The two last indulgencies are seldom granted; they are boons, however, that have lately been employed as rewards for the apprehension of bush-rangers. Men, free by service, receive a certificate to that effect from the governor; which, as well as every indulgence granted to prisoners, is regularly gazetted in the official newspaper.

It never was my intention in recording my observations upon the colony, to draw any invidious comparison between the free labourer of England; and the convict of Van Diemen's Land; well knowing the wages of the former, at the time of my leaving home, and comparing what those wages would procure in the way of food and raiment, with what every settler I found was compelled to give his servants, the result is so much in favor of the latter, that I fear it but too clearly accounts for the alarming increase of petty crimes in Great Britain. An industrious labourer, who understands farming business, will earn in England little more than sufficient to procure him bread and cheese; meat he seldom gets, with the exception, perhaps, of a neck or breast of mutton on Sundays. Here, then, we find honest industry starving, whilst roguery, carefully transplanted to another climate, flourishes in all its vigour. Convicts invariably obtain means to inform their friends in England how they live; and their representation, too frequently exaggerated from a natural desire to see their relatives, implants in the dissatisfied labourer at home an anxiety to emigrate, to accomplish which he is prevented for want of means, and eventually seeks the gratification of his ambition in the commission of an offence which is expiated by a sentence of transportation. I admit there is an inherent love of home that generally restrains this class of the population; but let this feeling be once lost sight of by the temptations above held out, and the laborer, quitting hard work, ill paid, in his youth, with the prospect of the alms-house in his old age, eagerly seeks a land where plenty, with less labour, awaits him. If he is disposed to be industrious, and his offence only that of having been a poacher or some such trifling crime, (and taking out letters from respectable individuals to that effect) he may become an overseer of his fellow prisoners, and then it will be his own fault if he does not do well.

I would never, for one moment, advocate any system of cruelty or privation to a fellow creature; but, punishment for offences is absolutely necessary for the well being of society; I nevertheless think that the mode of treating prisoners is any thing but a punishment. A poor vagrant, in England, is sent from parish to parish by their respective overseers, like a despised outcast, his crime alone being poverty; while a convicted felon, when transported, must be allowed even his comforts, or his health, forsooth, might possibly suffer! A free settler, who has no one solicitous for the state of his health or his comforts, pays forty pounds for his passage in the steerage of a merchant vessel; and yet, singular as it may appear to prison philanthropists, he generally arrives out in perfect convalescence, having no claim to the indulgences of wine, a stove between decks, with travelling stoves to air bye corners, nor more than the half of a convict's quantum of water. Every prisoner, I am well informed, costs government eighty pounds for his passage! This reprehensible lavish of the public money has been used, and very properly too, I admit, as an argument in favor of sending so many prisoners to the hulks, the Penitentiary, and elsewhere; more particularly those whose term is seven years, they being, I believe, generally retained in England on account of their circumscribed sentence. The system, however, I contend, is bad in toto calo; in the first place the expence ought to be reduced at least one - half. Why, for instance, cannot government ship a prisoner at as cheap a rate as a free man can obtain a passage in a merchant vessel, the owner of which of course gets a profit out of every passenger? The reason which occurs to me is, that one spends his own money and is consequently prudent, and the prisoners that of government, which I am sorry to say, is too often the reverse. A seven years' convict, both as regards the future welfare of the colonies and the state of society at home, is, I conceive, the best prisoner that can be sent out; he is in general young, and his crime, as his term of imprisonment implies, of course not very heinous. This description of convicts is also free from servitude, in so short a time as just to receive punishment enough, and to inculcate a better regulation of their future life. It seldom happens that emancipated convicts can raise fifty pounds to pay their passage home, and are therefore obliged to remain; they have also found out that they are in a country where one fourth of the labour requisite in England to procure common necessaries, will obtain for them what they call luxuries, for such are rum and tobacco considered. If an individual of this description is fortunate enough to get a kind master, who will give him good advice and a little assistance when he becomes free, so as to have a chance of getting an honest livelihood, he rarely thinks of returning to Europe. But let the same sort of convict be sent to the hulks, with six or eight hundred more, the constant dialogues of whom refer to robberies they intend to commit when their term expires, and to which they look forward as anxiously as a school-boy to his vacation; I say, let this man, after having been so associated, again return to society, and his chance will be hopeless of ever being again employed. But what is he to do I the natural reply of the ex-offender, is, "I will seek out my old cronies, and go to robbing again; I may as well be hanged or transported, as starve." Now, in a convict colony, a thief is so common, that no remark is excited; and if a man behaves well after he has attained his freedom, he has as good a chance as any other individual of acquiring a competency. I have heard that in Sydney a person, free by servitude, on being called a convict, by a settler, brought an action against him and recovered damages; which, though I think perfectly correct in that country, might not, perhaps have so terminated in England.

The London Penitentiary has ever been found so useless as to the purposes of reformation, that I should have forborne to allude to it, had I not seen an estimate of its cost and annual disbursements. Looking at the expence of this concern, even the passage-money to the colonies sinks into insignificance. The erection of this edifice cost government, or rather the country, £600,000; the annual expenditure, as proved before the House of Commons, is £25,000; the simple interest on the capital laid out in building, at five per cent, amounts to £30,000, making an annual charge of £55,000. This sum, allowing each prisoner's passage abroad to be £80, would pay for six hundred and eighty seven; but let the price of the passage be properly reduced, as it ought to be, and Great Britain would be enabled to export annually twelve hundred of her refuse population, not one hundred of whom, perhaps, would ever return. It would be an interesting document that would show how many of these Penitentiary reformed folks, after the expence and trouble incurred in keeping them, were sent abroad at last; certain it is, that when they get out, both they and the ci-devant hulk prisoners, are the most troublesome servants in the colonies. After the passage of a prisoner is paid, it is alone the fault of the governors abroad if they are longer suffered to be an expence to the home government; the settlers are always glad to get as many as they can, to enable them to clear their land, which they can seldom accomplish with the expedition they wish. It is said that the work performed by the convicts at the hulks compensates for the expence; it may be so, but I doubt it much. They must be fed and clothed, and if they do not work better in England than they do in the colonies, free labour must be not only cheaper, inasmuch as more will be done and better, but industrious artisans and peasants would find employment of which they are frequently in need, and consequently obliged to seek parish relief. Government have latterly been sending out a greater number of prisoners than formerly; an advantage in favor of the number of free settlers who have lately sailed, all of whom will want servants for various purposes. A place most aptly named "The Lumber Yard," of which I have before spoken, takes up a great many of the most useful prisoners, such as blacksmiths, carpenters, See.; when this concern is given up, as I understand it is to be, a number of artificers will be open for assignment to the new settler and others. The giving up these men to emigrants, and instead of sending prisoners to the Penitentiary, shipping them to these colonies, will I have no doubt, lead to the most beneficial results: in a distant country the sinner may repent and reform; in England there is but little chance of it. The population of the mother country is already so great, that she cannot find provisions even for her honest inhabitants; sending away a dishonest one is therefore a service in every way.

I shall conclude this subject with a short anecdote which fully illustrates how little a convict cares for transportation, or rather how much he prefers it. A gentleman who came home passenger in the same vessel with myself, brought with him a convict, free by servitude, as a domestic ; as he meant to discharge the man upon his arrival in England, I asked the servant what were his future plans? he replied that he meant to go and see his mother if she was alive, but if she was dead, he would, to use his own words " frisk a crib," (Auglicè, rob a shop,) or do something to lag him for seven years again, as he was perfectly aware he could not nor would not work hard enough to get his living in England.

In the years 1825 and 1826, the country was most seriously annoyed by the outrages of a party of convicts, some of whom were prisoners who had escaped from Macquarrie Harbour, and others, servants who had absconded from various settlers. The first of these desperate characters, of whom we have any account in Van Diemen's Land, was a fellow of the name of Michael Howe; he arrived in Hobart Town in October, 1812, and shortly after went into the bush, the gang then consisting of twenty-nine in number. In May, 1814, an amnesty was granted to those who would give themselves up, with the exception of such as had been guilty of murder. Howe accordingly availed himself of the conditions and surrendered, but very soon went off again with an old companion named Whitehead, who was the leader. On the 10th of March, 1815, they set fire to the wheat, &c. of Mr. Humphreys, police magistrate, and Mr. B. Reardon, district constable at Pittwater; on the 25th of April following, they robbed a Mr. Carlisle, at New Norfolk, when Mr. Mc Carthy, who was apprehensive they would seize a vessel of his, made up a party of nine persons to attack the gang, which then consisted of eight men, and a native girl of colour, named Mary, with whom Howe cohabited. The pursuers found the gang close to a large hollow tree, from which they fired with impunity upon the party, until Mr. Carlisle and a man named O'Birne received such severe wounds as to occasion their death shortly afterwards; three others were also seriously wounded, but the gang escaped unhurt. Military parties were now sent after them, and many inhabitants armed themselves and joined in the pursuit. A reward of fifty guineas was proclaimed for the apprehension of any of the delinquents, and a like sum to any one giving information of aiders or abettors. On the 10th of May following, the gang renewed their depredations at Mr. Humphreys' house, when they packed up every thing which they could conveniently remove, and the rest they destroyed. They afterwards paid a second visit to Mr. Mc Carthy, and wantonly fired a volley at his windows; a party of the 46th however, who, unknown to the gang, were in the house, fired in return and killed Whitehead the leader, who when he received the shot, ran directly into the woods toward Howe, exclaiming "Take my watch," a phrase understood by Howe, who immediately decapitated him; this precaution was adopted to prevent the body being recognized, and also to deprive any one of the benefit of the reward for taking in the head, which, it appears, was subsequently found in the bush. The body of Whitehead was gibbeted on Hunter's Island. The soldiers continued their pursuit of the remainder of the gang, who effected their escape through the darkness of the night.— Howe now became their leader; shortly after, two more of the gang were taken and executed by the side of the body of Whitehead. The party still continued their atrocious depredations, when three individuals who were detected in abetting them, by furnishing information and food, were apprehended, one of whom was executed, and the others were respited at the foot of the gallows.

The gang, soon after this, was augmented to fourteen men and two native women, (who were armed the same as the men), but three of these were shortly after killed by a party of the 46th. In March, 1817, the gang had some suspicion that Howe meant to betray them; the latter became aware of this and left them, accompanied by the blaek girl. In April, whilst pursued near Jericho by a party of troops, being hard pressed, and in order to facilitate his own escape, he fired at the poor black girl, who from fatigue was unable to keep up with him. She, however, received but little injury, and, together with Howe's knapsack, gun, and dogs, fell into the hands of the pursuers. This girl afterwards became particularly useful as a guide to the military, from the sagacity peculiar to the blacks in tracing footsteps where Europeans would not suspect them.

After the loss of the girl and his accoutrements, Howe wrote a letter to the governor, offering to give himself up and to furnish important information respecting his old associates, who, to the number of twenty, under a man named Geary, were committing the most outrageous atrocities. The governor immediately promised him his personal safety, and on the 29th of April he was safely lodged in Hobart Town gaol, where he underwent various examinations, but little information was obtained from him. Under the plea that confinement had impaired his health, Howe was allowed to go about with a constable, an indulgence he took advantage of in the July following by eluding the policeman's vigilance, and again took to the bush. He now felt that his treachery had too much inculpated him in the opinion of his former associates to join them, and having so deceived the governor by his vague and false information, as to preclude the hope of ever expecting a pardon, he now, to the end of his career, went entirely by himself. The gang were in the mean time, either through treachery amongst themselves, or their occasional capture by the military, gradually dispersed. A new one, however, was formed with a man of the name of Watts at their head, and for the apprehension of whom a reward of eighty guineas was offered, and one hundred for that of Howe; it did not appear that there was any connexion between the two, though each knew the other's haunts. Watts, thinking to save his own life, entered into a plan with a stockkeeper named Drewe for the capture of Howe. The plan they adopted succeeded, and Howe became their prisoner. As they were proceeding to town to deliver him up to the authorities, Watts, with his gun loaded, walked before Howe, and Drewe followed him; on a sudden, Howe disengaging his hands from the cords which bound them, stabbed Watts in the back with a knife which he had concealed, and taking his gun, shot Drew dead, promising Watts a similar fate as soon as he could load the gun; upon hearing this, Watts, though badly wounded, ran into the bush; when he was able to walk he repaired to the nearest house, and informed the people what had occurred, who went out and found poor Drew's body. Watts, when he was able to be removed was sent to Sydney for trial, but he died of his wound three days after his arrival. Howe was not heard of now for some time, but necessity at length compelled him to commit some robberies on distant stock-keepers for his support; few, after his late exploit, dared to venture a personal attack with him, until a man named Mc Gill, who had been emancipated for services against the bush-rangers, pursued him so closely, that Howe was obliged to leave behind him his pistols, guns, ammunition, dogs and knapsack; in the latter was found a sort of journal of dreams, which shewed the mental infatuation of this wretched man. In a robbery soon after this last affair he again got possession of a gun, but could not obtain any pistols. Towards the latter end of the year a soldier named Pugh, of the 48th regiment, and Worrall, a stock-keeper, resolved to make an attempt to capture Howe, who, they learnt, was occasionally in the habit of meeting one Warburton, a kangaroo hunter, who also agreed to join them. The two first concealed themselves in the hunter's hut. Howe having met Warburton, was told that if he would come to his hut he would let him have some ammunition; which, after a great deal of hesitation, Howe agreed to. As soon as he entered, Howe cocked his loaded gun, upon which Pugh immediately fired, but missed him. Howe exclaimed, "Oh! that's your game, is it?" (a cant expression amongst the convicts), and instantly retreating a pace or two, returned the fire, but also missed. Worrall now fired, but with no better effect. Howe then rushed out, chased by the other two, who gained upon and at length overtook him, when a dreadful combat ensued with the butt end of their respective guns; at last overpowered by repeated blows 011 the head, Howe fell, and expired without uttering a word—the last of a lawless sanguinary banditti. Howe was an astonishingly athletic man, and wore, at the time of his death, a dress made entirely of kangaroo skins; he had also an extraordinary long beard. After the affray the men severed his head and buried the body upon the spot; the head they took to Hobart Town, in order to obtain the reward.

The country was now free for some time, until the early part of 1825, when a new gang under a man named Brady, committed great ravages. Until the middle of 1826, there was scarcely a settler in the country who had not one or more visits from them. Brady was a man of shrewd intellect, and one or two of the others knew the country so well, that to follow them was next to impossible: they seized horses from various settlers, and scoured the country at a prodigious rapidity, robbing houses fifty and sixty miles from each other in the course of the same day. The merchants and settlers formed armed troops in pursuit of these marauders, and although occasionally a straggler was caught and conveyed to gaol, the main body continued their ravages with impunity, until at length by various acts of treachery of the stock-keepers, (from whom the gang obtained provisions and information), and getting persons under promises of pardon and reward to join with and betray them, the whole party were by degrees lodged in prison and suffered condign punishment. —One would have thought from the appalling scenes that took place—the hanging from sever. to eight a-day for three successive days—that these desperate characters would have been deterred from their lawless pursuits; yet, it is a fact, that a party of eight or ten one night seized a small colonial vessel called the Ellen, with which they escaped to sea: no one could guess their object in this extraordinary species of plunder, there being scarcely any provisions on board, and all of them utterly ignorant of navigation. Shortly after this, another set of villains laid a plan to seize a Sydney trader called the Emma Kemp, to effect which, they stole a boat, and came alongside the vessel, which had a guard of soldiers stowed away; the sentinel who was to have given the alarm to his companions, by which they were to jump up and make the fellows surrender, or else fire upon them, through some blunder betrayed the plan; upon which the boat sheered off, and proceeded down the river, it being too dark to pursue them with any chance of success. On their way, the crew plundered several trading boats, and afterwards lay to under the land, expecting the Emma Kemp would be coming down; in this, however, they were disappointed: their only alternative now was either to return (when some of them would probably be hanged, and the rest sent to Macquarrie Harbour) or else take to the bush; they preferred the latter, and landed at the south arm, from thence proceeding to the Carlton, where they robbed lieutenant Steel, two of whose men joined them. An immediate pursuit was made by the military and constables, under the direction of Mr. Gordon, the magistrate of Pittwater, whose superior knowlege of the country and well-known activity in the execution of his duty, might safely be relied upon, to obtain a good account of the runaways. The event justified expectation; for, in a very short time, by a well concerted plan, the whole party were surprised and surrounded. One was shot, another had his hand blown off, nine were hanged, and two sent to Macquarrie Harbour.

I am by no means ambitious of the character of a prophet, but I will venture to predict, that bush-ranging is never likely to be carried on again in Van Diemen's Land with the same devastation as hitherto. The country is now more explored, the settlers are daily becoming more respectable, and the police decidedly more efficient; the plan of disseminating suspicion of each other amongst the respective gangs, is also perfectly understood.

I have spoken of Macquarrie Harbour in my description of the country generally, and the mode of punishment by hard work, &c. which some few have contrived to escape; amongst these was one Patrick Dunn, the last of Brady's gang, who was executed. The difficulties of escape may be calculated from the confessions of another bush-ranger, previous to his being hanged, when he stated, that he was one of eight who got away, and that he had assisted in the murder and cannibalism of eighty-one of his comrades! The two last, he said, he had killed himself and lived upon, carrying their flesh along with him, until he returned from whence he came, not being able to find any way to go forward. When asked about his companions, he declared to the commandant, that they had died of fatigue, although at the time there were strong suspicions of his having himself dispatched some of them. 'A man named Horsfield, aged only twenty-one, who was hanged in August, 1826, for the Emma Kemp's business, confessed to the clergyman that he had been charged with, and absolutely had committed, thirteen capital offences, and broken out of gaol no less than eight times. In one escape (from Gosport), he had struck the keeper's son, named Oldridge, on the head with a poker, of which blow he afterwards died; and, in another escape, he had wounded a turnkey so badly, as to leave little hope of his recovery. Such is an imperfect outline of the characters which compose, what are termed, "bush-rangers."

I have somewhere read an account of a prison in America, where the worst description of malefactors are confined, and where their food is conveyed to them through an aperture in the wall; their labour consists of a certain quantity of water being let in upon them through conduits, which, if they do not pump off, they are obliged to remain in, the water rising up to about their waist. A month at this kind of labour would, I think, have more effect upon many of the culprits of our own country than all the other punishments now in use.

The country about Macquarrie Harbour I have been told is very sterile, producing nothing but timber, which the prisoners fell and saw; this, with some ship-building, does not afford half employment. It is of little use, however, attempting any thing else at such a place, from the utter impossibility of ever rendering it any thing but what it is. A gentleman named Barnard, has lately, by order of government, surveyed a place called King's Island, in Bass's Straits, between Circular Head and Western-port; and he seems to consider it well calculated for a penal settlement; but I am not enabled to say whether it is intended to be made use of for this purpose.

CHAPTER VIII.

SETTLER TAKING POSSESSION OF HIS LOCATION.

I WILL now proceed to give some information to the settler, regarding the method of obtaining a location, and the manner in which he should employ himself previously. I would advise him, as a necessary step, before he sets out in search of land, to see the governor, and insert in the schedule a list of his property, including every thing, in order to obtain as large a grant of land as possible. As it will be probably a week or ten days before his order for land will come from the colonial secretary, he cannot do better than employ his leisure in visiting such parts of the country as he may think (either from what he lias read in this work, or information obtained elsewhere) likely to suit hiin. Having in a former chapter recited a list of such things as I should recommend a settler to take out with him; amongst these will be found axles, boxes and tires for two carts; get these out of the vessel, having previously contracted with a wheelwright for the woodwork of the carts, and they can be made whilst you are up the country. Make also an arrangement with some merchant to receive your goods from the ship as they are landed, so as not to leave them exposed to accident or plunder on the jetty. By warehousing them, you are also enabled, when you are ready to take your family, to select such things as you shall immediately require, it being by no means advisable to carry up more into the country at first, than you absolutely need. I have known several persons having large families, who have made an agreement with the captain of the vessel they came out in, for their families to remain on board until such time as they should have obtained their grant, and a dwelling-place; thereby saving at least two or three guineas a-week in lodgings; meat, bread, and all other necessaries, are easily procured from the shore at any time in the day. The interval that must elapse in town, in order to see the governor, will enable an individual to arrange these little preparations in such a way as to obviate much unnecessary expence, and when he returns to town, having made up his mind as to where he will go, he finds his order for location ready, which he presents at the office of Mr. Dumaresq, the surveyor-general; on paying the fee, the order is obtained for measuring the ground, directed to the district surveyor, which may be delivered at the convenience of the settler, whose carts being built, and such parts of his investment in readiness as shall be required, he sets off with his family for the country.

Another very cogent reason for keeping a family on board the passage ship is, the absolute necessity in case of having free servants, of not permitting them to go into the town. There are always a number of loose characters lurking about, on the look-out for strangers, to "pick them up," as they term it, which, in other words, means to rob them, either by making them drunk, or subjecting them to some of the nefarious tricks for which these prowlers are so renowned. No one but those who have witnessed it, can imagine how soon the servants, who come out with the best characters, get contaminated. It becomes, in fact, a matter of difficult decision whether to advise the bringing out of servants or not; but on the whole, considering the expence, and the many instances that have come to my knowlege, of their ungrateful conduct, I should say, by all means have nothing to do with them.

Previous to going up the country in search of land, perchase a useful strong mare, which may be used to breed from, as well as to ride when not too heavy in foal; if you cannot purchase a mare to advantage, buy a horse; you must do it eventually, as horse hire, at fifteen shillings a-day, will soon nearly pay the purchase of one. A farm with a house, barns, &c., is very often to be met with for sale; if such an opportunity presents itself in a good district, where there is still left a sufficiency of unlocated lands to make up the quantity allowed to the settler, it will be very desirable to treat for it; the adage that "fools build, and wise men purchase," is as applicable in this country as in any part of the world. The advantages of an immediate domicile for a family are very essential. If a new comer can rent a farm even, upon moderate terms, it may not be a bad plan; it will give him time to see more of the country before he makes a choice of his location. In choosing land it will frequently happen that a new comer makes enquiries of persons upon the spot as to whether there is any land to be taken in the neighbourhood, to which they, of course, reply that there is not an acre worth having but what is located. Heed this not, however, for if there be plenty of water and other requisites, take a memorandum of the bearings of the place, as it too frequently happens that these officious communicators are settlers hard by, who find the land the stranger has been looking at, very useful to themselves, probably as a sheep-walk.

When you are in the country, you must not neglect to purchase the quantity of bullocks necessary to draw your carts; you will get them cheaper and better there than near town. Be certain as to their ages, names, and other particulars, and on no account buv them unless you see them steady and quiet in harness yourself; take no one's word as to this. Reject steers at any price; they may do on a farm, but they will be of no service in getting your family and goods up the country. The steadiest bullocks in travelling, are apt to roam; to prevent this, some of the men keep them in the yokes all night, but I have known many very valuable beasts killed by this custom. Some tie one of the fore-feet to the horn, and others put a log to the foot; but the best plan that I have seen, is to cut down a she-oak, of which they are very fond; when they have filled themselves, and had plenty of water, they will then probably lie down. It is very desirable, if you can so accomplish it, to have the man to whom the cattle have been accustomed for a driver. If you buy your bullocks in the country, you must get them driven down to town, and as the chances are twenty to one against your getting a driver for an assigned servant, you will have to hire one at 20s. or 25s. a-week; but be cautious to get one who knows his business. I cannot, indeed, too much enforce this. Bullocks astray will cause detention upon the road; and even for some time after a settler is upon his farm, they will go away for so long a period, that a crop may be lost; added to this, when they get far away into the bush, they fall in with stock-keepers who will make but little ceremony of killing and salting them down; the hide being destroved by fire, vou have no clue to your loss.

When the settler is in town, he must apply to Mr. Lakeland, the superintendant of convicts, for as many servants (male and female) as he thinks he shall require (female servants are only granted to married settlers); these you will take up with you. On making your application as soon as you land, it is sometimes possible in looking over the Penitentiary, to pick up a decent fellow or two; get a countryman if you can; but, at any rate, do not engage a Londoner. Having in another place stated the allowances of these people, it will be necessary to take up a supply of tea, sugar, tobacco, spirits, flour, &c. &c.; as the consumption of these articles is very great, a settler should endeavour always to stock himself when the prices are low; for this, and many other useful purposes, he should always procure letters of introduction to some respectable merchant, in whom he can confide, to transact his business at Hobart Town. If a settler goes to the Launceston side, this is not perhaps so requisite, as he can supply himself there: but still the prices are generally so high for every description of goods, that what I have recommended will be found useful.

Having given an account of the inns upon the road, you must endeavour to time your journey accordingly; if your bullocks are in good condition, they will travel from twentyfive to thirty-five miles a day. To guard against accidents, have your tent and beds near the top of your cart, so that if you are benighted, you may, with a fire, which is easily made, and a cup of tea, pass the night well enough; but do not on any account leave your cart, even for a moment. As you will, most probably, have to turn off the main road before you get to your location, be careful that you are in possession of the right route, it being more easily to get into the wild labyrinths of the country, than to extricate yourself from them. The early settler had not the advantages as to travelling which are to be met with at the present day; then, if any accident overtook him, he knew not how or where to seek for relief; now, the settler cannot proceed far without seeing a house or shepherd's hut, where strangers can find both refreshments and assistance, if required.

Having arrived upon his grant, the settler begins to build a house, but in my opinion there are many things of more importance to be done before this. A house may be built by degrees; but to benefit yourself and family, get a flock of sheep, this I recommend as a first step. Whilst you are looking out where to purchase them, your men can be felling building timber; in the choice of which, however, the settler should be guided principally by the distance it lies from where he wants it. Peppermint and stringy bark are most useful for the purpose of erecting a log hut, which you must get finished before the winter season sets in. Frequent opportunities will occur of seeing buildings of this description; but a few hints as to the mode of making them may not be inappropriate.

The size will of course depend upon the number of your family, but at any rate build it well, for when you have time, you may like to erect a brick or stone dwelling, when this hut will serve well for the prisoners; for the same reason do not place the hut on the best scite, but within two or three hundred yards of it. If you ever intend to build the "great house," as it is termed, that distance is very requisite to have between your family and the convict servants; at first starting these people will soon run up a wattle-branch house, covered with plaster made of the alluvial soil, and thatched with rushes or long grass. If you do not like a tent, you may prepare a place of this kind whilst the log house is getting ready. Your upright logs for the hut should be the same length as you intend the side walls to be; in height say about eight feet by twelve inches wide, and one and a half inch thick; these sizes will split easily, and at a trifling expence; four small trees cut down and squared, will make corner posts. The wall plates are soon obtained, and wattles make good rafters. The wood being as well seasoned as the time will allow, you may proceed with your upright slabs; these should be let eighteen inches into the ground at least, and properly rammed with earth, having previously well charied the point that is to be in the ground, as you should do all wood intended for posts, &c. The upper end should be grooved or chisseled away, so as to support the upper wall plate against which it is nailed. Some strips across the rafters will serve to fix the covering of shingles, which are made of peppermint split about fourteen to sixteen inches long, four and a half inches wide, and about as thick as a good slate, to which they bear a great resemblance, after having been a little time exposed to the weather. Your chimney will occasion but little trouble; two or three loads of turf will suffice until you get some bricks made: a little plaster in the inside will render things very comfortable; this can be made from the common earth, as time will be too valuable to look after lime, unless it is very handy.

Although I have been recommending a place to be built for yourself, I ought to add, that the cattle-yard and sheep-folds should demand your best attention; your beasts particularly being new to the place, will be very apt to ramble, and will require strong enclosures to keep them in bounds. The size of the sheep yard will depend upon the numbers you can purchase; but as they will be on the increase, make it large enough not to require altering for at least three years. There must be a drawing-off yard, capable of being divided into two, in order to part the ewes and wethers. The rails for this place should be straight and good, and the posts substantial, as they must have five mortice-holes to prevent the lambs getting through. Gates are seldom put up; rails to shift in and out of the posts are used as a substitute, and are protected in a peculiar way for that purpose. The garden, too, during these occupations, should not be forgotten. For the first year, I would recommend a bush-fence to be put upon the most open piece of ground that can be found, where, in one large enclosure, you may grow as many vegetables, particularly potatoes, as your family will require; in the same enclosure, also, may be sown wheat and oats sufficient to enable you to dispense with buying.

Arriving at the season I have previously named, it will be distinctly obvious, that to keep from purchasing for more than six months, every exertion must be used, and not the delay even of a day allowed. When the ground is sown, leisure is found for fencing, house building, and any thing else that is to be done. Should it be the intention of the settler, at a proper season, to provide himself with a large commodious house, I should strongly recommend him to have it built of stone or brick, (whichever is most convenient to him) in preference to weather-boarding; whenever a little leisure occurs, your men can be employed in sawing flooring boards to be exposed to the air, until such time as they are wanted. The timber of this country, it ought to be known, when laid down in a green state, warps and shrinks in a most extraordinary manner. Even when it has been well seasoned, it is, perhaps, a good plan not to nail the boards down fast at first, as they will most probably require to be taken up again. It is a convenient system always to keep a stock of seasoned timber by you for bullock yokes, beams of ploughs, repairs of carts, and many other implements that are always wanting repairs about a farm, and which can never be effectually mended if you have only green wood for the purpose.

I cannot close this chapter without again impressing upon the attention of intended emigrants, the proper season for leaving England. Under the head of Horticulture will be found a division of the seasons of Van Diemen's Land, on reading which, every one will, I think, agree with me in the propriety of arriving out at the latter end of the winter, or in sufficient time in spring to get a crop of wheat sown for family use. Persons arriving in the early part of the winter, or at the close of autumn, had better remain in Hobart Town, let the expence be what it may; for it is impossible to convey even a remote idea of what the bush is to a stranger in the wet season. Indeed, I can easily forgive those individuals, who having been so unfortunate as to arrive, and depart for the country in this dreary season, packing up their things and returning forthwith disgusted to Europe.

CHAPTER IX.

METHOD OF CLEARING AND GRUBBING LAND—STATE OF AGRICULTURE—SYSTEMS PURSUED BY THE GENERALITY OF SETTLERS—CROPS CULTIVATED, MARKETS, FAIRS, &c.

IN proceeding to describe the state of agriculture in Tasmania, I have no doubt I shall excite the surprise of those who have been accustomed to manage land as it should be. It is generally supposed by persons unacquainted with the nature of the country, that the settler has so much to perform, and such a capital to lay out, before he can possibly clear ground enough to grow sufficient corn for the consumption of his family. This may be the case in New South Wales, in consequence of the trees being much larger and thicker; but, generally speaking, there are few grants that have not a certain portion of land almost without timber. Those settlers who arrived out early in the Colony, have had very little to do in clearing or grubbing; it is true that some of the forest land is heavily timbered, but the soil is of a very superior description, consisting of a mixture of stiff clay and rich vegetable earth, and would produce abundance of grain. The land generally found tobethe most lightly timbered is situated on the banks of rivers, in the valleys, or the large plains on the high ground: the former consists of fine rich vegetable mould; the latter is unadapted for the purposes of agriculture, containing too great a proportion of sand, and, generally speaking, almost void of soil. There is abundance of land on almost every grant, that can be cleared, and burnt off ready for the plough, at a moderate expence.

During Sir Thomas Brisbane's administration, he offered men to those who were desirous of having their estates cleared, on the following terms,—For completely clearing forest land, five bushels of wheat per acre; brush land, seven ditto; rooting out stumps, and burning off timber that had previously been cut, four ditto; stumping forest land, three ditto; burning forest land, two ditto.

These conditions were readily acceded to by many individuals, who were very glad to avail themselves of such a chance; nothing of the kind, however, now exists in Tasmania, the method usually pursued being to agree with one or two men at so much per tree, and find them their rations at a fixed price. I have had large and small grubbed up by the roots at one and sixpence per tree. When the arms and branches are not wanted to make a brush-fence, the common mode is to saw them into lengths and pile them altogether in different heaps; by a little attention to the fires they soon consume;* the ashes should then be drawn upon the land. There are few settlers (except those with extensive means) who do not accomplish all this with their own men; although the general mode of clearing land is to notch a row of trees half way through, and let them stand until a gale of wind shall obviate any further labours of the woodman. This practice, however, I do not approve of; indeed I scarcely know which most to condemn, the master or the servant, as a little more time and trouble would have grubbed up the tree completely. A man would willingly fell the tree properly at the price I have just named, but he would not dig out the stump under a shilling more. The consequence of this miserable system is, that at every seed-time, a plough is broken, and the space left round the stump, becomes choaked up with weeds and rubbish; yet I regret to say the greater proportion of settlers have never, to this day, cleared the land they occupy from stumps.

The system of farming in Van Diemen's Land, consists principally of growing one crop, year after year. There are a few enterprising individuals who grow the various descriptions of grain; but wheat is what the old settler grew first, and from that he cannot depart. This is not to be wondered at, when we look back to the condition of the first settlers; many of whom were of the worst description of convicts, and those that were free could know very little of agriculture. It is not many years since, when the plough might be said to be unknown in the island; the ground was then broken up with a hoe, similar to those used in the W est Indies, and the corn brushed in with thorns. This rude system is now abolished, a pair of bullocks, and a plough being within the reach of the smallest land-holder.

New and old land is generally broken up at the same season of the year. Once ploughed, it is sown and harrowed, and never again interfered with until the crop is cut down. Wheat, barley, and oats may be sown at the same season, namely, about the beginning of August, although I have seen wheat sown late in November, and reaped in the early part of March, and yielded a good crop too. There is no fear of injuring the grain by sowing early; I have seen seed sown in the beginning of winter, and flourish surprisingly.

The colonial swing plough drawn by four or six bullocks is mostly used, and is found to answer well, until the land is free from roots and stones; they are made very strong and good for £5 each. The imported plough, if brought out whole, amounts to a great deal in freight and charges, and by the time it is on the land, becomes an expencive article.

A great deal of land at present under cultivation has never been enclosed, and much of it only fenced in with the branches of trees piled on each other. Indeed, the old settler (in some instances) may be said to have rather added to, than dissipated, the uncivilized appearance of the country. Many of those who have emigrated within the last ten years, have formed a pleasing contrast to the old beginner, for although many of their places wear the appearance of being inhabited, yet in other respects they have very little comfort about them.

In describing the goodness of soils in general in Tasmania, I cannot offer abetter proof of their richness, than by stating the way in which they are generally cropped. The greater part of the land in cultivation belonging to persons who emigrated early, has borne wheat every year, until it has been completely exhausted; this the reader will readily infer when I state that, in many instances from ten to fifteen crops have been taken in succession. When all endeavours have failed to obtain a crop, the old land is abandoned and a new piece broken up. The exhausted land generally becomes covered with young Mimosas, &c.

The wheat grown on the island is of the very best quality, although little or no attention is paid to the seed, or a change of seed. I think the fair average of wheat throughout the colony, may be laid at twenty-five bushels per acre. Wheat as well as all other grain, is generally sown broad-cast, the drill having not yet made its appearance in Tasmania. One bushel per acre will suffice for new land, and three pecks, or at most a bushel, on land cropped; the seed should be pickled, as in England, before it is sown. English barley is a precarious crop, Cape barley early sown, is a certain crop. Oats and barley have been grown by experienced settlers with great success; both of which, have, for many years, obtained a ready sale at good prices. Beans have not been brought to perfection; the plant comes well, but it appears to waste itself by flowering and dropping off; indeed, I never saw or heard of a crop coming to maturity. Peas of all descriptions may be grown abundantly. In short, every thing that can be produced in England, may be brought to great perfection here. Turnips are subject to be eaten by the grub; but such as have failed, have generally been on new land; this will, of course, be remedied when a proper rotation of crops is introduced, and a different system pursued. I have seen turnips sown once or twice on land that has been newly broken up, and a finer crop was never seen. Vetches are grown only by a few, although I have no doubt, in proportion as they are known by the settler, they will become very plentiful. They may be sown and cut at any season; but the early sowing, about April or May, will give two cuttings.

The season for harvest is from January to March; most of the grain is cut by the sickle, the scythe being rarely seen. The weather may always be depended on, as it scarcely ever rains at that season. The grain is carried to the stacks in small colonial carts, with frames made to fix on for this particular employment; waggons are not common, and only possessed by two or three large landholders. The colonial cart is made to shoot up, and instead of shafts, a pole is substituted for bullocks: these carts are sold complete, and very strong, for £20 to £25.

The smaller settler threshes his wheat in the open air, by the side of the stack, although threshing machines are become pretty general, and are frequently let out on the same principle as in England; the rate of charge is eight-pence per bushel. Potatoes are grown to a great extent, and are very fine; large quantities are exported to Sydney, where they generally find a good market, the farmers there being unable, from the stiff nature of the soils, and the excessive heat, to calculate with certainty upon having a crop. Tobacco has been grown, but never manufactured; hemp and flax have been raised by one or two individuals, but they have never made any progress, nor do I think they will, until the colony be better stocked with labourers.

Nothing can exceed the quality of the hops that have already been grown in this colony, the demand for which is so great, and the price given for those imported so exorbitantly high, that the culture of the hop vine bids fair to become very profitable. Hops grown in the colony have been sold at 8s. per lb., and I heard a very old brewer say, that he never saw any so fine. English grasses are grown very generally, but more abundantly on the Launceston side; the principal are the white clover, and rye-grass; small patches of trefoil are seen with both, but little has been sown as yet. Red clover flourishes as well as either of the others, but it does not perfect its seed. No kind of grass appears more adapted to the climate than white clover; it propagates immediately. I have seen immense patches near the mountains, the seed having been brought there by the stock keepers' horses that have fed on the hay the night before: wherever it takes root it appears to spread more rapidly than any thing I ever saw; although the cattle and sheep do not appear so fond of it as their native pasture, and it is subject to being burnt up in summer. The best grasses to sow are the meadow fescue, sweet vernel and the rye-grass; lucern has been grown with great success, and will produce three or four cuttings, being better able to stand the heat of summer. InHobartTown, hay made from English grasses, fetches £10 per ton; colonial hay, made from the kangaroo grass and wild oat, £8 per ton.

In consequence of the very rich soils in the neighbourhood of Launceston, and the abundant crops of hay grown, it is fifty per cent, cheaper than in Hobart Town. Mr. Hobler's flats on his estate at Caddy Taddy, are covered with white clover, propagated from the seed thrown out of the officer's pocket, which I before alluded to. Mr. Hobler grows a considerable quantity of hay, and was about to erect a press for the purpose of compressing it into as little bulk as possible, with the intent of shipping it to Sydney, where it would meet a good market. English grasses have been principally introduced for the purpose of cutting hay, and not as a permanent pasture for sheep or cattle. As the country advances, it will be found necessary to introduce something like a system, and a proper rotation of crops, as in England.

Hay-making is an operation not much known, and precaution is necessary not to allow it to be too much made; a constancy of fine weather may generally be insured, and if exposed to the sun too long, the nutritious qualities of the grasses will be destroyed. It is a most important point to avoid every unnecessary expence at the onset, on a farm; but as fencing is necessary both to improvement and comfort, I shall lay down the best rules for getting it properly performed. If you happen to have an assigned servant, who can split timber and prepare it for putting up, let him do it, as you will be sure to have your posts and rails strong enough; a trifling remuneration as a stimulus to exertion, may not be improperly bestowed.

Fencing is generally performed by ticket-of-leave or free men, who are well, acquainted with this branch of labour: they undertake to put up a certain number of rods at the price agreed upon, which is generally at from 3s. 6d. to 4s. 6d. per rod; the former charge is for a four-rail, and the latter for a three-rail fence. It is very necessary before these men are permitted to enter upon their work, to have an agreement in writing, the better to provide against their suddenly absconding, which they are very apt to do if any money is given to them in advance of wages. It is customary to furnish them with every thing they consume, charging of course a reasonable profit.

The form of the agreement (which may be drawn up by any respectable individual) runs thus: "A. agrees with B. to split and put up a four-rail fence, in a workman-like manner at — per rod, the posts to be set two feet in the ground, B. drawing the wood to the place where the fence is to be erected. B. agrees to furnish A. with meat at — per lb., tea, sugar, tools, slops, tobacco, See. &c. at a price agreed upon. Signed by both parties, and attested by a witness." The men then proceed into a forest contiguous to the estate, and build a bark-hut; but as they generally split in summer and put up in winter, a habitation is not much required.

The straightest and best grown trees of blue gum and stringy bark are selected; these are felled with a cross-cut saw, afterwards cut into proper lengths, and then split across the grain with wedges, into posts and rails. Posts should be five feet six inches, and rails nine feet long. The mortices are cut with a small axe made for that purpose, the holes being previously bored with an American auger. The rails should overlap each other, and the posts be well rammed; this part of the job should be superintended by the settler himself, or it will, in all probability, be slovenly performed. Many persons enclose with a three-rail fence, and throw a ditch up on each side to the lower rail; this method is a saving, and prevents the fence from being destroyed when the bush is burning; which frequently happens in very dry weather, Mr. Stock-keeper, thinking the grass will be sweeter, sets fire to his run, not for a moment reflecting whether his neighbour chooses to have his keep burnt. I have seen these fires extend for miles in hot windy weather, and presenting at night, as it runs along the mountains, a most magnificent spectacle. Thus thousands of acres of coarse feed are burnt, for the purpose of producing a fresh herbage, of which the cattle and sheep are excessively fond. A government order enacts, that no person shall smoke pipes or make fires near stacks or farm-yards, under pain of exemplary punishment; a very necessary order in such an arid country, though but little attention is paid to the mandate, and I am surprised that no serious losses have resulted from such carelessness. The cheapest and best mode of fencing on a small scale, and one well adapted to the colony, is to drive stout stakes at two feet apart, and weave strong brushwood between them, making a small ditch on the outside, and throwing the bank against the hedge. Logs, or as they are more commonly called, slabs, for erecting barns or smaller buildings, are split in the same manner. Shingles are split by the thousand; they are about fifteen inches long, and 4J or 5 inches broad; 8s. to 10s. is the common price: sawing is excessively dear, being about 10s. per 100 feet. Making and burning bricks £1 per 1,000. Indeed, nothing is so expencive in Tasmania as building, a pursuit that should be acted upon with extreme caution. Many have suffered severely from notcalculating well the extent of their means before they began to erect a house. I should certainly build with brick, in preference to any thing else, as this material may be produced, generally speaking, close to the spot where the scite has been chosen for your dwelling. Persons may always be found ready to contract to work up your bricks at a certain price per thousand; the cost, therefore, of erecting the shell of a building may be easily ascertained. The generality of settlers' houses have hitherto been built of weatherboard, but, taking into consideration the expence of sawing, splitting, and the immense quantity of nails used, I am confident it is the most expencive mode, and when finished, is but a wooden house.

There are certain things absolutely necessary to be performed on a farm in the first instance, and to avoid any unnecessary outlay they should be well done. It is much better to live a few years longer in a log-house, than to build a costly-looking place outside, with the picture of misery in the interior; instead of doing this, I should recommend such conveniences as stock-yards for yokeing bullocks, milking-yards, &c., all of which should be strongly put up; the posts may be cut convenient to the yard; round ones are preferable. The rails, five in number, should be well fitted in the mortices, as the goring of a bullock in his wild state, will soon try their strength.

There have been lately some attempts at forming markets, and with very tolerable success; the principal places where they are held are at Ross Bridge, and the Cross Marsh; they are under the management of committees, with a clerk of the market, and other officers. The sheep and cattle pens at both places are on a most extensive scale, and a very capital lot of stock, together with horses, I saw on view; as might be expected, there was a much larger number of sellers than buyers, most of the principal breeders being present. Though little business be done at first, these meetings will, nevertheless, in the end, be very useful. In the first place, the quality of the animals will, eventually, be better understood, and instead of the present promiscuous mode of breeding, every one will feel a pride in being able to show an animal superior to that of his neighbour; to accomplish which, the system of paddocks and English grasses must be more generally adopted; in the next place the new settler, by attending a market, will have the power of selecting what he wants from the best of every sort, this will be another inducement for the grazier to improve his breed, and not to suffer his cattle, as at present, to ran wild. One of the fairs at Ross Bridge, is held on the intermediate day of the races there; this takes place on the first Tuesday and Thursday in April; there is a handsome stand, with every other requisite, and the sport, when I was present, was most excellent on both days; but this will be more particularly alluded to in a subsequent chapter.

* I should recommend, in preference, instead of burning off, to cut the trunks of the trees, into such lengths as would admit of their being drawn off by a team of bullocks into a line of fence, to form square paddocks, with the brush wood at top, collecting the short wood, &c. into small heaps to burn. My motive for advising this plan is, that the large fires destroy the properties of the soil, whereas the small fires tend to improve it. The fence so formed is a very excellent one, and will last for years, until the settler's means shall enable him to substitute another, when the wood from the old fence may be of infinite service to him.

CHAPTER X.

GENERAL APPEARANCE OF THE COUNTRY.

HAVING in a former chapter given a description ot Hobart Town, it is to be presumed the reader will be anxious to learn something of the general face of the country. To ail Englishman, the immediate vicinity of the town would appear barren and desolate, being surrounded by the very worst description of forest land. On leaving Elizabeth-street, proceeding northward, you come into the high road to New Norfolk and Launceston; on each side the road for some distance, are many good substantial dwelling-houses, the rage for building appearing to predominate here over every other part of the town. About two miles upon the road, turning off to the right, you will be delighted by the sudden appearance of one of the most pleasant spots in the island. This is called New Town, and may be fairly termed the Richmond of Van Diemen's Land; on the left as you proceed down the road on the approach to the town, on a gentle rise, stands a neat but elegant little cottage, the property of Mr. B. Broughton; the garden and grounds of which are laid out with much taste, and do infinite credit to the proprietor.

At New Town (for the first time since you set your foot on the shores of Tasmania) you will recognise the grasses of your native land, which grow very luxuriantly: on the right stands a neat freestone building, the property of captain John Briggs. You have by this time a full view of the river Derwent; the lofty rugged mountains on the opposite side form a pleasing contrast to the cultivated land around. You next arrive at a very superior handsome looking house, with delightful garden and shrubbery; this was built by the late surveyor-general, Mr. Evans, but at the present time is occupied by the commissioner of the court of requests, Joseph Hone, Esq. and his family. On your left, beyond Mr. Hone's, are a few cottages, which, however do not add to the beauty of the place. A good freestone house 011 the same side, will strike you from its neat quiet appearance; this is the residence of Mr. Fletcher of the commissariat department. The last house before you leave New Town is that of Mr. G. Gatehouse, an extensive miller and brewer; and although this residence has no great claim to architectural beauty, it is nevertheless a very respectable good-looking house; the garden is very extensive, and is well stocked with all kinds of fruit trees.

About two miles N. h. from New Town (but which is not seen in riding along the road) stands the summer residence of Mr. J. T. Gellibrand the late attorney-general: returning again into the highway, after passing the Rose inn, (a house from its neat appearance I should have taken for the dwelling of some civil officer or merchant), the traveller will meet with nothing very striking on the way to Austin's Ferry, except the goodness of the road, and now and then the windings of the Derwent, breaking very pleasingly upon the view. The land on each side the road is but of little value. On the right, eight miles and three quarters from Hobart Town, is the Ferry-house, a large commodious inn, where the traveller and his horse will find every thing that can be desired, in the shape of refreshment and accommodation. This is one of the principal ferries across the Derwent to the north side of the island. But leaving that route for the present, I will proceed to give an idea of the road to New Norfolk, and the country surrounding it.

About thirteen miles from the ferry, following the beautiful windings of the river Derwent, is Elizabeth Town. The view to the westward is confined and dreary, but the traveller will be pleased with the rich appearance of the farms on the opposite side of the river: the settlement is called Herdsman's Cove, and runs up several miles on the eastern bank. Continuing along the river, you pass a few pleasant houses, also the lime-kilns worked by government; as you approach nearer the settlement of New Norfolk, the river becomes narrow, and the scenery is of the most wild and romantic character. The edges of the mountains hang precipitously over the river, and the road, which is very narrow, is cut out of the rocks. A little on the right stands an excellent water-mill, the property of Mr. Terry; on the left before you enter the town, is the farm and cottage of Thomas Lascelles, Esq., police magistrate at the Coal River.

In Mr. Curr's account of Van Diemen's Land, (written in 1820-3), that gentleman describes Elizabeth Town as merely nominal, there being then but one single house: whereas, at the present day, it bears no mean resemblance to a pleasant country village, containing, besides thirty or forty small cottages, the country residence of the Lieutenant-Governor, a delightful little place, to which its owner sometimes retires from his official duties, which, if I may judge, are pretty considerable, and require more relaxation than he can avail himself of. Mr. Hamilton, the police magistrate for the district,¹ resides in the township, as also Da. Rt. officer, and the resident clergyman, the Rev. Mr. Robinson, M.A. One of the largest and best inns in the island stands on the banks of the river. The reader, I imagine, will be agreeably surprised to find in addition to all this, that a neat brick church is pleasantly situated in the centre of the settlement, where duty is performed twice every Sunday.

The Derwent is navigable as far up as the settlement, and boats of ten or fifteen tons are constantly employed by the surrounding settlers to convey their produce to market. For this there is a regular charge, and considering the distance, and the expence of boat-hire in general, I do not think it extravagant; Is. per cwt. is the charge for luggage, and 4d. per bushel for all kinds of grain. It is to be regretted that nature had not so ordered it as to render the river navigable much higher; but the falls and rapids are too numerous ever to be subdued by the work of man. Proceeding still on the western banks, you have to ride through a confined country for five or six miles, thickly wooded, and of light sandy soil; this is also in the New Norfolk district. There are five or six very fine farms in cultivation, most of which have a good brick dwelling-house, with suitable barns and out-offices. A small stream, called the Plenty, which continues to run during the whole summer, here empties itself into the Derwent. A few miles higher up is the establishment of A. W. H. Humphrey, Esq., police magistrate for the county of Buckingham, which I cannot pass unnoticed. The grant is considerable; the arable land is immediately on the banks of the Derwent, and sheltered by a long chain of hills to the westward, which afford abundant feed for a numerous flock of highly-improved sheep. Mr. Humphrey is, I believe, the largest grower of whitethorn in the island; the land in cultivation is fenced in with it. Besides a superb dwelling-house and a small pheasantry, there is one of the largest and best nurseries in the island; I should think from its appearance there cannot be less than ten acres walled in; it is crowded with every description of fruit trees. The river Styx disembogues itself into the Derwent on this estate. A few miles higher up, on the banks of the river, are the farms of Messrs. Abbott, Hays, Bethume, and others; except the banks of the rivers, these grants consist chiefly of high rugged hills, but producing abundance of feed, and good dry layer for sheep. There are various grants higher up the river, but these are only occupied by stock-keepers; the extent of country to the westward, is totally unknown, and except a few individuals who have been out hunting for wild cattle, it may be said that few have crossed the western tier of mountains. Directly to the west, over these hills, is Macquarrie Harbour; from which place several attempts have been made by runaways to cross the country into these settlements, but they have generally either died of fatigue, or been compelled to return and deliver themselves up to the commandant.

Having endeavoured to point out to the reader what I conceive to be most worthy of observation on the western side of the river Derwent, I shall now proceed back to the Bush inn, New Norfolk, and conduct him through the beautiful country over Macquarrie, and Sorrel Plains. Many people who have been accustomed to swim their horses across the rivers of the country, would do so here to save the trouble of going back to the settlement; although I have often done so, I cannot recommend the practice to strangers, the current being dangerously rapid.

Crossing the punt opposite the Bush inn, you find yourself still in the district of New Norfolk; here are dispersed a vast number of small farms, and weather-boarded cottages; indeed a stranger would suppose this little slip of land, situated as it is on the banks of a navigable river, might be turned to good account; those who occupy them, however, appear to try which can outrival the other in pursuing the worst system. Leaving the King's Head on your left, you travel along the banks of the Derwent, and pass some pretty little farms of from one to two hundred acres each, and instead of the sods, logs, and mud-huts which Mr. Curr speaks of, are now to be seen some very neat farm-houses built of brick and freestone, and in which quite as much taste has been displayed as in the generality of farm-houses in England. Proceeding onwards, the country begins to open to your view, and, for a time, you lose all trace of the Derwent: about eight miles on the road you again hear its mur-murings, and as you descend a rather steep hill, you have suddenly before you the farm and cottage of Mr. Barker, a partner in the firm of Kemp and Co., in Hobart Town. A very agreeable and hospitable old lady resides on the estate, and, I may venture to assert, has received the thanks of many a weary traveller; this grant is nearly fenced in by the windings of the river. Turning to the right, you pass the house of Mrs. Robinson, which is situated on a very narrow neck of land, and certainly a more beautiful spot I never beheld; fifty rods of fencing enclose the arable land, which is of the richest description, and the sheep-walks, as well as the adjoining grants, are in the most unexceptionable condition. On the left of this are the grants of Mr. Cawthorne and others. This is a populous and delightful district, interspersed with hill and valley, and the cottage of the settler alternately smiling upon you.

Mr. Heywood's farm and house are directly on the right of the road; this gentleman, I believe, suffered more than any other individual by the daring attacks of the bush-rangers in 1825-6. A great portion of the land around here is fit for the plough; but it would be extremely injudicious to cultivate at such a distance from Hobart Town. Riding over the elevated ridges of the country you are about to pass through, you command an amazing extent of country. To the west, at the farthest extremity of the Western Tier, is an enormous high rugged point, towering much above the rest of the other mountains; this is named the Frenchman's Cap, from its generally being covered with snow, and bearing some resemblance to the shape of that article of dress which invariably adorns the head of a French cook. To the left of the road, over the beautiful plains before you, the late Governor Sorrel owns a very fine property; and to the right stands a handsome square-built house surrounded by a very good grazing farm. The whole of the country around here has been located for years; and I have no hesitation in saying, a finer sheep country cannot possibly be found, than the district of Macquarrie and Sorrel Plains; the latter, if any thing, has the preference. The dry elevations on the acclivities of the surrounding hills of this portion of the country, make it one of the most healthful and desirable sheep-walks of any in the whole island.

After descending one of the high hills for which this part of the country is famed, you suddenly come in contact with a few weather-boarded and sod huts, situated on the banks of the river Clyde; this is marked out for the township of Macquarrie. If a fine rich alluvial soil be a temptation for people to build upon and get an allotment, this place is well chosen. To the right, before you cross the Clyde, is the farm and beautiful cottage of Dr. Bromley; the garden, which runs to the water's edge, is one of the best in the island, and the worthy doctor seems to spare no pains to produce all things in due season.

Crossing the Clyde, you enter a fine open country, thinly wooded and moderately elevated: the herbage, from being properly grazed, is always short and sweet, and affords ample feed for thousands of sheep and beasts: this part of the island is extremely hilly, and differs materially from other districts that are so well watered in this respect. The banks of both the Clyde and Derwent are not blessed with the same proportion of good land, but rise progressively into immense high hills, many of them perfectly flat on the top, and well supplied with the native Burnet and other rib grasses, affording good food for sheep. Keeping the road to the right, you pass the farm and cottage of the late Mr. Langloh, an attorney; on the left is a small cottage with enclosures belonging to Mr. Parker; these and the adjoining farms are most excellent for the purpose of breeding and feeding sheep. I confess I was surprised to find, at this distance from town (between forty and fifty miles), a large paddock enclosed and cultivated; the soil appeared red, and more nearly resembled some of the red lands in England than any I had seen in the island. In the middle of this paddock, on a gentle rise, stands part of a skeleton of a large house, which, if I may guess, from its dilapidated condition, has stood for some time; on enquiry I found the farm belonged to Mr. J. Risely, A little farther to the north of the paddock, a small weather-boarded hut, with large barns and hovels, and most excellent yards have been erected. Leaving these buildings you command a view of Lawrennie, the finest estate in the county, and I should presume, by far the greater proportion of it enclosed and naturally clear of timber, one paddock containing ten thousand acres, and another three; this beautiful estate is the property of Sir John Owen, and Edward Lord, Esq. The house, though small, stands on the banks of the Derwent, and fronts an immense flat of good grass land; the rocks on the bed of the river impede the course of the current, whose murmurings are heard at a considerable distance. To the left, as you pass the house, is a large paddock in cultivation, which from its situation is liable to partial flooding; it is enclosed by a post and rail fence, which reflects little credit either unon the camenter or the superintendant.

Immense herds of cattle are seen grazing in this large enclosure, though not constituting one-third of what belong to the proprietors, the stock being partially distributed over nearly the whole island. This district is called Sorrel Plains. There are several grants on the opposite side of the river, on some of which the settlers themselves reside; the extent of country they must occupy is very considerable, as they have no interruption, and their cattle can run to the western mountains. As a grazing and breeding country, I think this part of the island worthy the attention of the new emigrant. There cannot, by any possibility, ever be a want of water, as there are no less than five rivers, on the western side, which disembogue themselves into the Derwent. As you proceed higher up, you lose all trace of the latter river, and the course runs amongst high rugged hills to the western mountains, from whence it derives its source.

There are several estates higher up, but few occupied by their respective owners. About three miles from Lavvrennie, Mr. Marzette resides; and, beyond him, are the grants of Messrs. Austin, Ross, Treffit, Patterson, and others, situated on the banks of the river Ouse and Shannon, so named after both the great lakes beyond St. Patrick's Plains, a part of the country very little known; indeed, I should particularly recommend a person looking for land to search well to the N.N.W.

Although I cannot promise to conduct the reader through so fine a country as the one I am about to leave, still a journey across Spring Hill and the Upper Clyde, leaving Abyssinia to the right, and the Black Marsh to the left, and joining the Launceston road at the Cross Marsh, will not, I hope, be uninteresting. Directing your course more easterly, you have a view of the house and grant of Mrs. Burns: the house stands in a valley, surrounded by lofty hills clear of timber, which produce most excellent feed for a large flock of sheep. I have seen on this farm, early in the spring, wethers in much better condition than any where else, which convinces me, beyond doubt, that the coarse flat land, however full of grass, is not adapted to the improvement of sheep, like the high red and black hills, where they can always lie dry, and shelter themselves from the wind. About a mile from this estate, you again cross the river Clyde, which, unless it be a great flood, is here very narrow: after crossing the ford, and passing Mr. Dixon's and Mr. Treffit's, a material change takes place; the country wears a different appearance, and, instead of fine clear valleys and pleasant hills, you have rather a dreary ride of ten or twelve miles through a country nearly flat, and thickly wooded, and more adapted for cattle than sheep, although many thousands are bred and fed in the neighbourhood.

Leaving Emu Bottoms, you proceed through the bush to the town of Both well. A good beaten road leads you by two or three solitary huts, and but for the distant jingling of sheep-bells, one would suppose this part of the country totally deserted: the land to the left is located by captain Langdon, R. N. commander of the Wanstead trading ship, and Dr. Hood. Bearing to the left, you arrive at the township, and I am inclined to think it will not be many years before it will deserve the name of town; the scite is well chosen, and the Clyde flows contiguous. Government have here erected a range of barracks for a party of soldiers, and a neat cottage for the commanding officer, who is empowered to act as a magistrate. On the left, across the river, stand the dwelling-house of Mr. Alexander Reid, the cottage of Dr. Scott, and a few others—minor dwellings form the town of Bothwell. There is an excellent water-mill not more than a mile from the town. Taking the road directly to the left, about three miles, is the very extensive establishment of captain Wood, formerly of the lion. East India Company's service, a very large breeder of sheep and beasts. The house, which is very large and commodious, is built of stone dug on the estate; the situation is badly chosen. The pleasure this gentleman must derive in viewing the neat cottages around him, occupied by hardy and honest Scotch families, imported at his own expence, all of whom appear enviably happy, must amply remunerate him for the expence and trouble he has incurred. The prisoners' habitations are by far the neatest I ever saw; the buildings about the premises are on a par with the whole. A considerable quantity of land in the front of the house is enclosed, and under cultivation; it is of a bad quality, and will never, I fear, pay the owner for his troiftle. This establishment is out of the direct road to the Cross' Marsh: considerably to the right, proceeding on the road, you pass the Abyssinian Hills, which consist of very lofty acclivities, covered with the oak, and following each other in succession for miles.

This chain of hills has been many years infested by a tribe of natives, notwithstanding numerous locations have been made around them: a great many different grants have been taken in this part of the country, although, I believe, over these hills, to the right, a good sheep farm or two might be selected. The Hunting Grounds (so called from the amusement they afford to the kangaroo hunters) are, I believe, not all located; I should recommend those who want a sheep-walk to lookover them. The river Jordan finds its way through the immense ravines of rocks and mountains, among which I was once for some time enlabyrinthed; but the pleasure I derived in surveying the immense precipices, many of which were too hundred feet in height, amply compensated for the fears I at first entertained of being out all night in a country surrounded by natives.

There is nothing very interesting or worthy of remark, between this and the Cross Marsh; the land and soil is of unequal quality, changing from light sandy forests to alluvial open marshes; the latter are much frequented by wild herds of cattle in the summer. After a cheerless and monotonous ride from these scenes, you arrive at the Cross Marsh through which the Jordan meanders, and for some distance the land on either side its banks, is rich and good; although a tributary stream, it supplies the settler with water during the summer. The first dwelling you see on this beautiful verdant flat, is Mr. Espie's: his house and premises are built of fine redbrick; the paddocks, which are large and enclosed, are under cultivation; the land is naturally clear of timber.— Another settler's house stands beyond this, occupied by the chief district constable: to the right stands a very handsome house, with stables, coach-house, and every domestic enjoyment necessary to complete the country residence of a gentleman; this is the property of Mr. A. F. Kemp: the buildings connected with this farm are situated at a proper distance from the dwelling. Passing through a large enclosed paddock, the property of Mr. E. Lord, you come into the high road between Launceston and HobartTown, at the distance of ninety-three miles from the former, and thirty-one from the latter.

I shall now conduct the reader back to Hobart Town, from thence to the flourishing districts of Pitt Water, Coal River, &c. Turning to the south, you proceed down the Sand Hill to the Royal Oak inn, erected and conducted by Mrs. Ransom, in a manner highly creditable to that individual; the house is of brick, two stories high. The traveller may here generally insure a good bed for himself and excellent accommodation for his horse, and a larder always provided with a nice roast chicken and a good ham. There are several farms in this neighbourhood, in the occupation of very respectable individuals, that are not seen from the road. After leaving the Royal Oak, about a mile, you arrive at the settlement of the Green Ponds.

The reader, no doubt, will feel surprised at the ridiculous and uncouth names, (many of which are of the lowest description) given to these places; but as the country gets formed into proper districts, more appropriate designations will, of course, be given. There are a number of small farms, varying from fifty to one hundred acres, none of which, however, would strike the beholder, except from their slovenly appearance; for, although they have been cultivated for years, yet the stumps are still suffered to remain in the land. A blacksmith's and a vvheel-wright's shop, with a few small cottages and huts, constitute the settlement of the Green Ponds.

About two miles and a half onwards, after passing a few mean huts on the road side, you arrive at the top of Constitution Hill, and, although the steepest and worst hill on the road, it is, nevertheless, kept in very good repair. This, perhaps, may be accounted for, as a good gravel pit is adjacent.

The scenery here is very delightful; and, as you approach the declivity of the hill, you command a very extensive view of tolerable clear country to the south-east: immediately below the right, is a deep valley heavily timbered, which rises gradually into a very high range of light timbered hills. At the bottom of the hill turning to the right, is the Swan inn, particularly noted for its dull situation and the little comfort it affords to the traveller. The road from this to the ferry is lively and interesting; the only drawback (if I may so speak) is in witnessing the different huts as you pass, the idle inmates of which have neither a patch of garden nor any apparent comfort about them. Iam inclined to believe, indeed, not without very good reason, that a greater part of the occupiers are illicit dealers in spirits, and receivers of stolen property. On the left, before you reach Bagdad, stands a pleasant brick house with an arable farm adjoining, the property of Dr. Espie.

Between five and six miles from Constitution Hill, stands the Crown, at Bagdad, a comfortable, clean, and well-conducted inn. On the same side the road, are the farms of Messrs. Kemberly and Lackey, both of whom are very extensive corn-growers. These gentlemen are natives of the country, and are highly respectable men. Bagdad has long been a settlement. The country round it is moderately timbered; the corn land is situated in a flat, backed in by a range of hills to the eastward, and contains a very useful sort of black soil. About a mile from the inn, you cross Strathallan Creek, whicli, altliougli a very minor stream, runs during the summer months, apd empties itself into the Derwent. After ascending a small hill, you arrive on Brighton Plains, the spot chosen as being most adapted for the seat of government; and, it is evident, by the lines cut out and posts set down, that the surveyors had been at work. Who proposed this wonderful design, or why it was abandoned, I know not. There is here a small brick cottage and a store, the property of government, besides a few huts occupied by a guard of soldiers. The country is surprisingly improved around this district. There are many flats of fine alluvial soil, both on the right and left; turning to the latter, you are conducted to theTeaTree Brush, a very excellent corn district; the former is the high road to town. A neat cottage and farm, on the right of the road, is Mrs. Whitehead's. From hence to Hobart Town, the land gradually gets worse, and that which is under cultivation, looks white and thin. There are several small farms and houses, but none of any consequence, till you arrive at the grant of John Ogle Gage, Esq. J. P. The house is small and built of stone; this is about eleven miles from Hobart Town, and two from Compton's Ferry. The ferry-house and the Northampton Arms are conducted by Mr. Johnson; this is the principal ferry, and every thing from the north side of the island must pass over here, or at the old beach, two or three miles above. On the opposite side of the river, which is about three quarters of a mile broad, stands the old established inn, Roseneath Ferry; the house and garden have a pretty effect from the opposite shore: here is a large punt kept to convey droves of sheep and beast, carts and teams of bullocks, 8cc. &c. A smaller boat, which will hold two or three horses, or a horse and gig, is kept for accommodation; the charges are, for traveller and horse, two shillings; beasts, per head, one shilling; sheep, per score, one shilling: and six-pence, and so on in proportion.

As from this place you take your departure for New Norfolk, it will be unnecessary for me to retrace the route to Hobart Town, I will therefore send my horse over to Kangaroo Point, and follow in another boat; I recommend this plan, because I have had one or two narrow escapes from being upset; and to strangers who have nobody to warn them against the sudden squalls and puffs to which the Derwent is constantly subject, it might prove a source of serious annoyance. Horses in a gale of wind are not the most welcome passengers, and the passage over this ferry is two miles, if not more. On the point where you land, stands a brick-built public-house, called the Golden Fleece; I have very little doubt but the man who keeps it is reaping a golden harvest, as settlers, of all classes, are obliged to cross and recross from this place into the adjoining districts to which I am about to refer, and the consequence is, the lower classes are constantly exhibiting the most deplorable scenes of drunkenness and misery.

The districts alluded to are two; one immediately to the right, and the other to the left: they are called Clarence Plains, and Muddy Plains, though it is evident that those who named them followed the rule of contrary; the first is of very little service, except for the purpose of collecting firewood. In this respect it is well adapted, as the surrounding hills are covered with the oak, the best description of firewood. The latter district scarcely deserves notice; there are a few small farms in cultivation, one of which is in the possession of Mr. Mather, a store-keeper in Hobart Town.— Besides a genteel cottage belonging to Mr. D. Lord, there are but few houses on the point, and those principally belong to the various boatmen who are constantly employed taking people over.

From this point to the Coal River, is fourteen miles, and to Sorrel Town, Pitt Water, twenty-two miles; although the journey may be accomplished in eight and a half miles, by crossing at Bluff Point; but the distance across the arm of the sea is considerable, and consequently the charges for taking persons over in proportion. I believe the fare for horse and man is seven shillings. I shall, therefore, proceed to the lower settlement of Pitt Water, by the hollow tree, and over the lower ferry. There is little to interest or amuse the traveller along this line of road; the forests of lofty gum trees, enclose the road on each side, and render it unfit for agriculture: a public-house stands about four miles on the right. There are a few pleasant farms after riding about six miles from the point, two of which are extensive dairy farms, one in the possession of Mr. Lewes, the other of Mr. Romney. The road to the left is the direct way to the Coal River; there are a few grants occupied on that line, but in general the timber is very thick, and the land of middling quality: after passing the farms of Mr. Lewes, about two miles farther on, you come in contact with one of the prettiest little places in the island, belonging to Mr. Anthony Williams; it stands on a rising mount of sandy soil, and commands an agreeable view of the arm of the sea, which forms an extensive bay. On the opposite coast you have the settlement of Sorrel Town completely open to view, as also the adjoining country. This delightful cottage and out-building was built by Mr. Williams, whose taste richly deserves a better estate to improve. The butter made on the farm is famed for its excellence: the whole of this property, consisting of 800 acres, and the stock upon it, was sold to lieutenant Cooling, R. N. for £2,700.

Leaving the house, you proceed directly along the coast for about five or six miles, and arrive at the extremity of the neck of land which forms a part of the grant; to all appearance the land on this neck is worth nothing, consisting chiefly of light grey and black sand, and producing heath and the flat kind of rush; the herbage is scantily scattered, and very little kangaroo grass; yet, strange to say, the sheep and cattle always look in good condition, which, I presume must arise from the contiguity of the spot to the sea. Immediately opposite is the Ferry House. The shoals on first entering are very shallow, and you are generally compelled to swim your horse across; the channel is not more than a hundred yards wide; the punt charges are—for horse and man, four shilling's.

This side is called the district of Sussex, or Lower Pitt Water; the lower end of this settlement is about due east from Hobart Town, and is known by a small fresh water river, called the Carlton; Lieutenant Steel, R.N., has settled as low down as this with a number of minor settlers. A few small farms are cultivated, and the grower has an excellent opportunity of shipping his produce to Hobart Town or Sydney, without the expence and trouble of land carriage. This settlement is heavily timbered, and has a plentiful share of underwood, although the land in cultivation contains a good quantity of rich vegetable earth. Oysters are found in great abundance at the Carlton, and are very good in quality. I was surprised to find large mounds containing nothing else but oyster shells, and too far inland to have been left there by the sea: some of these heaps, I am convinced, contained hundreds of cart loads. All the information 1 could collect as to how or when they came there, was, that the natives used the place as a favorite spot to catch fish, before the district was located. About a mile from the Ferry House, is the farm and residence of James Gordon, Esq., an old magistrate and much respected colonist; this gentleman has been long famed for his breed of pigs, and for his excellent dried bacon, which, I certainly think, is not inferior to any in the world. Mr. Gordon has also a cider-press, with which he has succeeded in making a large quantity of this delicious beverage, possessing a very superior flavour; his garden and orchard are extensive, and well managed; the arable land, from beino; constantly cropped, has become weak and thin.

Immediately behind Mr. Gordon's farm, is the grant of John Lakeland, Esq., J.P., the principal superintendant of convicts. For the first time since my arrival in the island, I here saw a piece of land being worked as fallow. I found, on enquiry, that Mr. Lakeland's bailiff had been brought up all his life as a farming man, and came out free from Bedfordshire. On this estate stands the largest and best-built brick house of any on the east side of the island, and also a large stone barn.

There are numbers of small farms around these estates; the soil is strong and pretty good, but, generally speaking, too much surrounded by immense forests of heavy timber; and, unlike the forest land on the north side of the island, it produces very little feed for either cattle or sheep; few of the latter indeed, are kent in this district.*

Leaving Mr. Gordon's farm, you proceed through a small but heavy timbered forest of blue gum and peppermint, leading towards the township of Sorrel. Passing the estate of Mr. R. Bethume, brother to Mr. W. Bethume, merchant at Hobart Town, I should think there are nearly 300 acres of cleared land in cultivation. The house, which is large, is built of brick; the out-offices, are commodious and good; but there is very little extent of grass land: this farm, with the thrashing and winnowing machines, carts, working bullocks, &c., is set to a tenant at a yearly rent, payable in wheat at the market price.

About a mile to the right, resides W. H. Glover, Esq. J.P.; a genteel looking house, and elevated on the ridge of a high hill, with an enclosed arable farm in the front. To the eastward of this estate are many residents, among whom is Mr. Silas Gatehouse; still there is an immense extent of land unlocated: between this and Oyster Bay and Swan Port, the largest portion of it is very heavily timbered, and of an inferior description. Sorrel Town consists of about thirty neat houses, a very handsome new church built of freestone, and ornamented with six or eight gothic windows, and capable of holding as large a congregation as St. David's Church: there are also a strong gaol, an excellent school-house, with a small barrack for a guard of soldiers. The resident clergyman is the Rev. W. Gerrard. The scite of the town is badly chosen; although the situation has considerable advantages, being settled in a very fine corn district. Small sloops are employed between this place and Hobart Town, for the purpose of conveying corn, and bringing back goods for the settler. The greatest drawback to those who reside in the township is, the scarcity of water, and that hardly fit to drink. About a quarter of a mile from the town, and near the beach, stands a large freestone house, three or four stories high; above it to the left, is an enclosed arable farm belonging to Mr. Wade.

If this place should ever rise rapidly, and I have no doubt it will, great inconvenience will be experienced in having to cross the bay, about three miles, to the Bluff; by this route, the distance to HobartTown is shortened twelve miles. The land contiguous to the town is clear of timber; the soil consists of light black mould, but, from its having been cropped so much, is very liable to smut.

I shall now conduct the reader to Orielton, another estate belonging to Sir J. Owen and Mr. Lord, but differing materially as to situation, &c. Leaving Sorrel considerably to your left, on a high promontory formed by the sea, is the grant of the late Lieutenant Jefferys: this gentleman, previous to his death, began to erect one of the largest houses (which, from its appearance, one would suppose was meant for a castle,) ever seen on the island: the side walls and turrets are still remaining. This is a folly, too frequently prevalent in both colonies; individuals with limited means and expensive notions, commence building without a previous calculation of the cost; the consequence is, that unless by an extraordinary effort of prudence, they are compelled to live in their loo- hut ever afterwards.

The ride to Orielton is not very pleasant; the scenery is confined, and the road runs through a valley scantily wooded, principally with the oak: the hills between this and the Coal River are covered with moderately sized timber, not large enough, however, to be of any service to the settler; here is also an abundance of feed for cattle and sheep. Orielton is twenty miles from Hobart Town, and is situated on a fine flat of rich black land; as an arable and grazing farm, it is inferior to none in the island. The grant runs in a N.E. direction, and consists of gently rising verdant hills. The house is not of very modern date. The management of these beautiful estates, and the immense herds upon them, is in the hands of Mr. Henry Nicholls, a gentleman possessed of considerable experience in agricultural knowledge. Four or live miles from this estate, in a N.W. direction, is the township of Richmond, more commonly called the Coal River; there are nearly one hundred farms around this settlement, many of which are very superior: amongst them ought not to be omitted that of Mr. D. Lord. The ploughed land is directly on the banks of the Coal River; it consists of a very rich deep black loam, with a strong clay subsoil, and produces abundance of wheat of very fine quality; the appearance of the barn, yards and stacks, reminded me more of my native country, than any thing I had previously seen in the island.

On the opposite side of the river, is a farm nearly equal in excellence to Mr. Lord's; it is the original grant of John Butcher, Esq., J.P. The arm of the sea extends round Sorrel Town, and nearly up to these farms; if the river was navigable to this township, it would be the most desirable spot on the whole island. A large handsome court-house built of freestone, and contiguous to it a neat substantial prison, a mill, and a few cottages, besides the farm houses of the settlers, constitute the township of Richmond. The Rev. W. Gerrard does duty in the court-house once every Sabbath.

Leaving the township, and following the road in a northerly direction, you pass the grants of Mr. S. Lord, and Dr. Barnes; little improvement has yet been made on either. The next are the grants of Mr. Hobbs the wharfinger, and Mr. R. W. Loane; the former is as nature left it, and the atter does little credit to the owner; the buildings are bad, and the fencing, if possible, worse; this farm is let at a yearly rent to Mr. Pever. The soil in this neighbourhood is said to be capable of growing almost any thing, and altogether it may be said to be as rich a flat of available land as any in the island.

Over the chain of hills to the westward, are the grants of Major de Gillan, and Messrs. Patterson, Gunn, and others; the former gentleman resides on his estate, and farms upon an extensive scale, This portion of the island, which is certainly a very desirable one, from its easy access to Hobart Town, has been located many years. A short distance from Mr. Loane's, proceeding on the road, you pass the houses of Messrs. Staines and Troy, and of Messrs. Gavan, Kerney, and others. The two former are the largest proprietors of horned cattle and brood mares in the island. The cultivated land is fenced in, and appears to have been cropped until it will at last bear nothing but weeds.

Crossing the Coal River, (which is now become a very diminutive stream, except in heavy floods,) to the right, a road conducts you to the grants of Mr. Cartwright, Messrs. Risely, Fisk, and others, and so on to Orielton, all of which is desirable property. About a mile from the residences of Messrs. Staines and Troy, is the valuable estate of George Western Gunning, J.P. The house, though small, is extremely genteel, and surrounded with a beautiful nursery and garden; Mr. Gunning is the largest grower of hops in the island. The paddocks are enclosed; some of which are laid down with English grasses. A fine tier of grassy hills, moderately timbered, stands to the eastward of the house, which afford ample feed for a large flock of sheep. The river runs by the premises, and supplies the place with good water during the summer. Mr. Jemmott's grant, now the property of Rolla O'Farrell, Esq., runs a little higher up, as do also six or eight others, belonging to different individuals; these extend, in a straight direction, to Jerusalem Plains, on the banks of the same stream which flows from the mountains near to the east coast.

Bidding adieu to the Coal River, I shall now proceed through a district of useful black land, (principally occupied by small settlers, and ticket-of-leave men,) into the high road to Launceston. Having before described the country between Bagdad and the Cross Marsh, I shall continue on to the Lovely Banks, thirty-six miles and a half from Ilobart Town, and eighty-nine from Launceston. This was the original grant of a very old settler, Mr. Birch, but it now belongs to Mrs. Hodson; it is a delightful pleasant country, moderately thin of light timber, and produces abundance of good sweet herbage for sheep. The pleasant rising hills around this part of the country have attracted the general attention of the new settler, and but little of the land about this part remains unlocated.

Proceeding on about five miles and a half, you pass the dwelling house which is now let to Mr. Edward Lord, with six thousand acres of good land, sixty of which are fenced in, and about fifteen laid down in English grasses. Eleven hundred ewes, and three hundred head of breeding cattle, working bullocks, besides the farming implements, pigs, &c., for seven years, at a yearly rent of £600. Not more than one hundred yards from this house, stands a neat inn. The ride to Jericho, about six miles, is very hilly; but the scenery from Spring Hill, about two miles from Jericho, is surpassingly beautiful, embracing a complete panoramic view of the country to the westward, the valleys below, and the immense mountains above; the Table Mountain, too, (so called, from bearing a very great resemblance to the one at the Cape of Good Hope,) towering above the rest, excites the sublimest feelings in the breast of the traveller. To the left, but which are not observable from the road, are the grants of Mr. Bisdee and others. I have not been over these, nor the country immediately around them; but from the sheep I have seen, which have been bred on the land, I should say it is a very fair grazing country, and as there is a tolerable extent of it, I would advise individuals in search of land, to look well round about here.

A stranger approaching Jericho, would be completely astonished at the excellence of the roads in this neighbourhood, they having been finished by the government at a very great expence. The first building that meets the eye on entering the township, as it is called, is a mean-looking place which serves for a prison; a guard of soldiers occupy the huts, and the commanding officer the weather-boarded cottage. On the right, after passing the gaol, is the dwelling house of Dr. Desailly; on the left, the farm and house of Messrs. J. and E. Bryant. Descending the hill, over the Jordan, you have a good view of the pleasant abode of T. G. Gregson, Esq. J.P. The arable land runs from the house down to the road; it is fenced in, and planted with whitethorn; the house is built of stone, and stands on a pleasant scite. An excellent inn is on the roadside; the house and stabling here would vie with many of our market towns in England; the situation is also good, and the establishment altogether as ably conducted as any house on the road. 1 may be somewhat prejudiced, perhaps, in favour of this place, from an occurrence that happened soon after my arrival in the Colony: I halted at this inn for the night, and, after sleeping soundly, I was awoke early in the morning by the cry of hounds, which, at first, I thought chimerical; but, on enquiry, I found to the contrary, and that these joyous companions of our rural sports belonged to Mr. Gregson; but more of this hereafter.

To the left of Mr. Gregson's house, behind a small tier of hills, is the grant of Thomas Anstey, Esq. J.P.; the grounds about the house more resemble a gentleman's park than a grant of land in a new country; there is an extensive tract of land enclosed, and a respectable looking house in the centre: this district is by far the highest and coldest of any of the located parts of the island. The country around consists of large broad valleys, and high hills, which ascend gradually; it is considered a fine sheep country, aild thousands of very highly improved, are bred and fed in the district.

Both to the east and west of Jericho, plenty of good unlocated land still remains, and although heavily timbered in some parts, a good grazing farm might easily be selected. About five miles to the right of Jericho, the Jordan takes its source; it is supplied by a large lagune, nearly 300 acres in extent, called Lemon's Lagune. Leaving Jericho, you pass through a pleasant clear country, until you arrive at the spot marked out for the township of Oatlands; on the right, crossing Fourteen-Tree Plain, * is the grant of Mr. Pike, the house and buildings of which may be seen from the road: there are several other grants on both sides of the roads, occupied by shepherdsand stock-keepers. Lemon Springs,forty-seven miles from Hobart Town, has long been the residence of a party of soldiers, who have charge of the chain-gang; but as they have most probably finished the line of road some distance beyond this, their settlement is removed: the road here is well finished, and the stones broken and laid on after Mc Adam's principle. About a mile from this place, the old road turns off to the N.E., the new one is to extend through a line of hilly country, the most confined and cheerless of any I ever met with. The original road runs through the township of Oatlands; a few sod huts mark the scite of the place, where only are to be seen a few soldiers and a miserable gang of prisoners working in chains. To the right of this place is an extensive country, called the Blue Hills, where the cattle of Mr. David Lord principally browse.

Eleven miles from the township, passing for a few miles over short stony hills, and an immense plain, you arrive at the Tin-Dish Holes; the plain is known as York Plains; the feed upon it is generally very good, and the surrounding country covered with rich verdure; yet this part of the island is as thinly populated as any of the located spots I am acquainted with: to the right of these plains are the grants of Mr. Russel, Mr. J. Lord, and others. Two or three miles before you arrive at the inn, you pass a house commonly known as Joe Wright's; this place has long been the rendezvous of cattle and sheep stealers, and where many a good fat steer has been salted down. The White Hart inn, kept by Mr. Presnel, has very little to recommend it to the traveller, who, however, has no alternative but to halt or ride on to Ross Bridge, fifteen miles farther.

The country now begins to assume a different appearance; the ride to Ross is one continued open plain, containing many thousand acres. Leaving the White Hart inn to the right, are Antill Ponds, the grant of Robert Harrison, Esq. J.P. The house stands in a pleasant valley, hemmed in by numbers of sloping hills, covered with herbage. Descending the hill, before you come to the grant and buildings of Mr. Kimberly, one of the finest and by far the most extensive views presents itself, that of Ben Lomond and the vast country to the eastward: the same extent of land, naturally cleared, cannot be found in any other part of the island. They are designated " Salt-pan Plains," from their containing two large lagunes, which in summer yield an abundance of salt. I regret I am not sufficiently acquainted with mineralogy, to explain the cause of salt-water being found at this distance from the sea; I believe, however, it is an uncommon occurrence.

The herbage on these plains is thinly spread with kangaroo grass, and the native plantain ; the soil is a mixture of red earth and sand: the hills in the vicinity are rugged and very stony, though not barren. As a mere enumeration of the names of those who have taken land in this neighbourhood, would afford but little information, I shall, therefore, proceed on to Blackman's Bridge, sixty-seven miles from Hobart Town; here two or three solitary houses, and a bridge nearly one hundred feet long,are the only objects worth attention: the river, and the rich swamps connected with it, are, in the summer, completely dry; but in winter, during the heavy rains, they are flooded. In the direction of about N.N.W. from this bridge, is a line of country that leads to the Lake River: it is located by respectable free settlers, of whom the following particulars may not be unacceptable.

Two or three miles from the bridge, in an extensive flat of rich black land, is the first farm in this route, where there are several enclosures under cultivation. On this estate, which belongs to Mr. Lackey, is erected a large water-mill, called Arthur Mill, so named after the present governor, who offered five hundred acres of land to any person who would build a mill in this district, for the convenience of the settlers around. At the back of this estate, under the long chain of mountains, are the grants of Mr. Eddie and Mrs. Badley ; a small cottage, and a hut for the prisoners, are also upon the estate: the hills are thickly wooded, but produce good feed for sheep. Higher up to the left of the forest, is the grant of Mr. John Curr Clarke; this gentleman has erected a very large house, where Mrs. Clarke has removed her establishment for the education of young ladies.

The land is generally good around this part of the country, which is known as the Hanging Sugar-loaf: to the eastward the country is open and pleasant; to the west the forests are thick, and only fit for cattle. Passing the house and grant of Mr. Yorke, you fall in with the Penny-royal Creek; a few miles from this the country is more open and becomes thicker inhabited. There are many settlers in this district, among whom is J. C. Sutherland, Esq. J.P.; a guard of soldiers is also stationed here: a company of most respectable free settlers, principally Scotchmen, are building a distillery, (which was expected shortly to be at work); the proprietors have petitioned the government to decrease the duty on colonial-made spirits to one shilling a gallon', and to impose higher duties on that which is imported, so as to prohibit the immense consumption which now exists. About a mile from this distillery, on the same stream, stands a very excellent water-mill, erected by Mr. G. Gatenby: his house and premises, consisting of a wheelwright and blacksmith's shop, stand a short distance from the mills; two trades of this description, in the interior of a new country, are an essential accommodation to the environ settlers. I hope the reader will excuse my digressing from the direct route, my principal desire being to point out the numbers of respectable people that reside in the island, and of whom the mere casual visitor riding across the country, would otherwise know nothing.

I shall proceed again from Blackman's Bridge on my way to Launceston. The country to Ross, a distance of seven miles, is very similar to the plains-before alluded to, with the exception of a range of hills on your left, which extend fifty or sixty miles, and increase in size as they approach to the N. W.; these are called the First Western Tier. W. Kermode's house and premises are a short distance from the road, to the right; two pleasant cottages in the valley, stand on the grants of Mr. P. Parrymore and Captain Horton: a more delightful situation than the immediate neighbourhood of this place, cannot be wished for. The picturesque effect of the lofty hills to the right, sloping down into the valleys, which are moderately shaded by tasteful clumps of the mimosa: the numerous flocks feeding on the verdant banks of the river, would almost tempt the traveller to envy those who have been fortunate enough to choose this part of the country for their new abode. The race-course at Ross Bridge, is the next object; the situation is well chosen, and a neat stand is erected opposite the winning-post, for the accommodation of the stewards and visitors.

After passing the "Man of Ross," a small inn for travellers, you cross the Macquarrie, over a bridge between two and three hundred feet in length; where, on a pleasant dry sandy bank, is erected a small house, now occupied by — Simpson, Esq., district police magistrate. This spot has been selected as the scite most suitable for a township; and as regards a fine dry soil, plenty of water, with an open well-populated country, it is, perhaps, a very desirable situation. There are also, some good freestone quarries close to the township. Immediately after crossing the bridge, you are in the county of Cornwall.

* Mr. Curr, in his work, describes the district of Sussex as the richest settlement in the island; I am inclined to think, however, that at that period he had not travelled much on the north side, or he would not have ventured sucli an opinion. He speaks, too, of Mr. Gordon's farm as being a most superior one, in point of culture, and the extent of its fencing; with respect to the latter, I am convinced there are many individuals who have as many thousands of acres fenced in, as Mr. Gordon has hundreds.

* This Plain is of considerable extent, and before Ross Bridge was chosen as the scite for the annual races to be held, the running used to be here; it is a dead flat two miles round.

CHAPTER XI.

COUNTY OF CORNWALL.

THIS county comprises the whole of the country along the Macquarrie, even to the extremity of the Western Mountains, including the populous district of Norfolk Plains; indeed, I may fairly call it a luxuriant valley; it is enclosed on the right and left by chains of stupendous mountains. About three miles from Ross Bridge, is the government farming and grazing establishment: they have reserved to themselves twenty thousand acres of the finest land in the island, moderately wooded and well watered. There is about three hundred acres fenced in for the purposes of agriculture; also about five hundred head of horned cattle, from which the public works are supplied with working bullocks; the whole is under the superintendence of Lieutenant Scarden, R.N. About a mile on the road to Launceston, on a gentle rise, stands the house of Benjamin Home, Esq, J.P., a good substantial building of stone; there are also several excellent out-offices, built of the same material. The country, in the environs of this estate, is particularly adapted for the feeding and breeding of sheep: the land in this quarter, has been long since granted to different individuals. From Mr. Horne's to Campbell Town, there is nothing particularly striking; flocks of sheep are seen grazing, and now and then small herds of cattle, belonging to the neighbouring settlers.

Campbell Town is situated on the north side of Elizabeth river; a poor mean looking building, and a new brick house, intended, I believe, for an inn, constitute all that is to be seen of Campbell Town; although the numbers of highly respectable free settlers around, impart to the place the appearance of a town. On the left of the road, are the grants of Messrs. Briggs and Leake; the former gentleman's grant, with a neat brick cottage and excellent homestead, is let to Mr. Gilles, for a term of years. Mr. Leake has, also, lately erected a very handsome dwelling-house of stone. On the right are the grants of Samuel Hill, Esq., J.P., and of Mr. Jellico; and, on the opposite side of the river, are the dwelling-houses and grants of Dr. Pierson, Mr. Robertson, and Mr. John McLeod; the latter gentleman, besides cultivating largely, has opened an extensive store replete with every article the settler may require.

The land on both sides of the river, is of excellent quality, and well adapted to all the varied purposes of agriculture. The country, from this to the Eastern Mountains, is extremely beautiful, presenting rich plains thinly wooded, and covered with a fine sward of native pasture. There are more sheep than cattle bred and fed in this neighbourhood. There is also an extensive fine country, running in a north-easterly direction over the chain of hills to the right; scarcely any of it is yet located, although stocked by immense herds of cattle belonging to Messrs. Staines and Troy, and other individuals. This country is known by the name of St. Paul's, and Break o'-day Plains. At the latter place, one respectable free settler, Mr. Talbot, has taken his grant, and resides upon it; he is a large breeder of sheep and cattle, and I have no doubt is well satisfied with having gone thus far back; his sheep have free permission to graze where they please, without any fear of complaints from neighbours: indeed those who wish to have unlimited runs, and intend increasing their flocks, must do the same; and I advise the new emigrant to be resolute, and look well to the east and west, where the discovery of abundance of good land will requite his search.

Leaving Campbell Town, you ride over the same description of pastoral country as before described; and you now appear to approach very near the lofty Ben Lomond, looking down, as it were, with contempt upon his less elevated brethren. On the left of the road, about six miles from the town, you pass the house and premises of R.Willis, Esq. J.P. This gentleman has been but a very few years on the island, and I may venture to say has done considerably more towards improving his grant than any other individual in the same time. The house is pleasantly situated at the foot of a dry sandy hill; the buildings are extensive and convenient. Several large enclosures well fenced, run in an easterly direction to the edge of the public road, some of which are under cultivation, although I am inclined to think the soil is rather too weak to produce good English grasses, a system which I have no doubt this gentleman means to pursue, having a considerable flock of pure Merinos. About a mile on the left you pass Hyland's Lagune, a large sheet of water furnishing refreshingsupplies to the cattle around during summer. The country for a few miles assumes a very different appearance; instead of an interesting clear prospect and moderately wooded by small clumps of trees, as if planted by the hand of man to ornament an estate, you have to pass through "Epping Forest." Many a weary traveller, from the bad state of the roads in winter and the darkness of the night, has been compelled to take up his abode in this cheerless place: from its level situation and the stubborn nature of the subsoil, the water cannot escape, and in the winter it is little better than the very worst description of cross country roads in England. To escape this road is impossible, for although the forest is thin of underwood, yet the numbers of trees that lie constantly strewed about, deter the traveller from making an attempt; those who have done so, have been lost for many hours in the bush, a predicament which the reader may infer has excited any thing but agreeable feelings. This evil I am happy to say was about to be remedied previous to my leaving the island, a person of the name of Thomas having already built a small house on his grant, which was about to have a licence conferred upon it.

After riding eight miles through this dreary forest, it may be easily conceived, the traveller is anxiously desirous for something to interest him; in this he is not disappointed, for on leaving the forest he suddenly finds himself in the midst of the most beautiful plains, covered with fine feed springing from an highly rich alluvial soil. The broad windings of the South Esk, flows gently through this valley to the foot of Ben Lomond, from whence it takes its source. Proceeding on to the left, you pass the stock yard of Mr. Gibson, and the grant of Jocelyn Thomas, Esq., colonial treasurer. The banks, which here descend so abruptly, are called the Snake Banks. The soil to the left of the valley is gravelly and only fit for a sheep run. Advancing on a few miles, you again pass another grant or purchase of Mr. Gibson's; a small cottage for his overseer stands on a pleasant rise, and immediately behind it, one of the largest and best-built weather boarded barns I ever saw: in the flat to the right is the cultivated land, enclosed in suitably sized paddocks, many of which are laid down in English grasses. There are some hundreds of acres of land in the flat, which might be cleared and ploughed at a moderate expence. On the right of the road, two or three miles from the latter farm, is the grant of the late Rev. J. Youl; the cottage, pleasantly situated near the Esk, is occupied by his widow. The next object is the dwelling-house of Mr. Gibson; this gentleman is one amongst the many large stock-holders. The house and premises are pleasantly situated, although there is nothing very elegant in their construction. Leaving the house about a quarter of a mile on the road, you hear the murmurings of the South Esk; here there is a ford which is passable at all times (unless when heavily flooded), and leads into a large agricultural district, to which I shall hereafter allude. A short distance from the punt on your right, is a large grant, the property of Mr. Nolan; he is also a considerable land-holder in New South Wales. This gentleman owns several thousand acres here; but I should imagine, from his residing in New South Wales, that he is possessed of a much larger quantity in that colony; but through what means Mr. Nolan obtained grants in both colonies, I know not, it being the only instance I have ever heard of.

One hundred and twelve miles from Hobart Town, is the punt ferry, on the South Esk; a neat pretty little cottage on this side is occupied by the commanding officer of the guard stationed over the chain-gang. Crossing the river (which is about forty yards wide) in a punt established many years ago by government for the convenience of the settler, you land on the spot which one day or other will, I think, become a very pleasant little town; at present there are only a few huts, and a cottage or two, one of which has a licence to vend spirits, and the other takes licence (i. e. sells it on the sly) no very uncommon occurrence on the island.

On each side of the road proceeding from the punt, the land is rather heavily timbered, although it produces abundance of luxuriant feed. About five miles further on the road you pass several small farms in cultivation: the land is good enough for all purposes, and but for the unseemly appearance of the quantities of black stumps which have been staring the proprietors in the face for the last seven years, I should say they were very useful little farms. Many of these small farms, I believe, are let by Mr. Scott, the assistant surveyorgeneral, out of his grant; they were let previous to my leaving the island, to a number of prisoners, who hold what is termed a "ticket-of-leave," and others free by servitude. I have been informed a worse set of thieves do not exist in the island, than those to be met with on or about the "Cocked-hat Hill," as it is called; indeed, I am fully persuaded that these characters are, generally speaking, the harbourers of runaways, and the receivers of stolen property: they rent from fifty to one hundred and fifty acres of land, and pretend to get their living by cultivating it. If you pass by their huts, it is no uncommon thing to see part of a good fat sheep or a piece of beef hung up; though it is notorious that they were never the legitimate owners of either sheep or cattle. The respectable settlers around are, of course, constantly sustaining losses by these vagrants. I once happened to be present when the premises of one of these characters was searched; he was known to be a notorious sheep-stealer, and yet neither mutton nor skins could be found about the place; at last it occurred to a gentleman who had been a considerable sufferer, that it would be as well to search the pig-sty, where, however, to all external appearance nothing seemed to warrant suspicion; but, on removing the straw, it was remarked that the slabs were very loose; on pulling them up, the plant was sprung* and mutton in abundance was discovered stowed away in a large barrel, in which were not less than four or five sheep. This discovery was treated very lightly by the delinquent, who exultingiy defied any of the party to identify the meat; of course no one would undertake to swear that the sheep of which he had been robbed formed a part of the detected spoil, and impunity was the result.

Nothing, indeed, can exceed the precaution of these fellows to avoid detection; as an instance, I knew a gentleman who had lost a great many sheep, by one and two at a time; at length, however, he suspected a man in the neighbourhood, and was determined, if possible, to detect him: on searching about the scrub one day for a convenient place to hide in, he suddenly set his foot on some wattle branches newly broken off; on removing which, a well presented itself, nearly full of water, and at the bottom were found a number of sheep's heads and trotters, and in a sack eight or nine young lambs, which had evidently been obtained by means of the Caesarian operation upon the ewes. The heads of the sheep were found, on examination, to belong to the searcher, having his own brand upon them. It is not a little remarkable, that though the gentleman in question watched the spot for a considerable time, he never heard or saw any one approach the place.

But to proceed: a mile or two from hence is the farm of Mr. Smith. In the hollow to the left, is a neat stone house, and farm, the property of Rowland Walker, Esq., J.P.; the land under cultivation is very good, and forms altogether a pleasing residence, though somewhat impaired by the appearance of five or six hundred stumps: one would suppose, at such a distance from a good flourishing town, land would pay for grubbing. From the punt to this farm, the road is as good as in any part of England; and from thence to Launceston (when I was last over it) equally as bad. The ride from this place, about four miles, is confined and heavily timbered on both sides; the land, too, is not of the same quality as that we have lately passed by, although it extends but to a short distance. Passing a small public house on the left, as you ascend the hill, you have a view of the town of Launceston, and the river Tamar, for a considerable distance. The rich and varied scenery of this spot presents a landscape surpassing in grandeur and beauty any thing I ever beheld; indeed, it may be justly said to defie description.

* A slang term, used by constables and others when anything is found that has been secreted.

CHAPTER XII.

LAUNCESTON AND GEORGE TOWN.

LAUNCESTON, the principal settlement on the north side of the island, is 123 miles from Hobart Town; and, as before stated, was first settled upon in 1804, by order of Governor King. It is situated on a flat of the richest land in the island, and backed in by gentle rising hills; from its fronting the swamp and river, it is subject to heavy fogs in the winter, although admirably situated as a port. It is very inferior to Hobart Town, in size, but not as to situation; and like most new settlements, it will require a period of many years to place it on anything like a footing with the well-regulated towns of the same extent in England. The houses are low, principally built of wood, and contain a ground floor only; the new brick buildings, which are daily rising up, only serve to make the mean and shabby appearance of the former more conspicuous.

The streets are well laid out, and intersect each other at right angles; but, from the want of draining, and proper management, they are quite impassable for females in rainy weather. Edward Abbott, Esq., is the commandant; but all the different departments (except the commissariat) connected with government, are conducted by deputies, and under the immediate subjection of the lieutenant-governor and the council. A company of whatever regiment may be in the island, under the command of a captain and lieutenant, are stationed at the barracks, a neat range of buildings situated on the west side of the town: the public buildings are not worth noticing.

A handsome new church is nearly finished, which bids fair to rival that of St. David's; it has been erected by government at an immense expense. The Rev. Mr. Norman has been appointed by the archdeacon, to succeed the late Rev. John Goul. A very extensive new store is in a forward state; it stands contiguous to the river, and, when finished, will do infinite credit to the government.

On the east side of the town is the Cornwall Collegiate Institution, founded in the year 1826, at the instance, principally, of Thomas Lawrence, Esq. The plan upon which this excellent establishment is supported, is this: gentlemen of respectability, on becoming subscribers to the amount of £50, have the privilege of entering their sons to be boarded and educated for £30 per annum each. The alacrity manitested by most of the gentlemen on that side of the island to avail themselves of the benefits offered, was, perhaps, the best proof that conld be given of the utility and necessity of such an institution. The Rev. R. Claiborne, B.A., was elected head master; though I was informed, at the period of my departure, that that gentleman was about to resign his appointment: but from what cause I could not ascertain.

The principal trade of this place is with New South Wales, and the yearly exports of wheat alone, I understand, exceed 100,000 bushels.* These exports are principally made by the store-keeper, who is not unfrequently the agent of a merchant at Sydney, it being usual for the settler to dispose of his wheat to the store-keeper in barter for goods; a system, by the bye, that operates materially to his disadvantage; though to individuals possessing small farms and limited means, I know of no other source of disposing of their produce, there being no fixed market where cash can be obtained for the grain: and even the most extensive corn growers did not find means to export their own produce until the year 1826, when three or four individuals chartered the brig Tranmere, and loaded her with wheat for the Isle of France; but either from a want of unanimity among the parties, or sailing at an unfavourable period, I have good reason to believe the speculation turned out a complete failure: several similar efforts have since been made. Captain Briggs sailed in the Caledonia, with a cargo for the Isle of France, with liberty to touch at any port where he might expect a better market; but after being at sea some ten or twelve days, he spoke a vessel that had not been long from that part of the world, and receiving information which he deemed to be authentic, he altered his course for Sydney, where he sold the whole cargo at six shillings per bushel, and proceeded with the cash to load with sugar for the benefit of the shippers. Captain Taylor also sailed with a cargo, in the Cape packet; and after touching at the Mauritius, Saint Helena, Cape of Good Hope, and Algoa Bay, he eventually succeeded in getting rid of it. I afterwards met with Captain T. at Rio Janeiro; he was about to return home with the proceeds in foreign goods. The Admiral Cockburn, Captain Cooling, was also partly loaded with 8,000 bushels of wheat, by a few of the most extensive growers, for Rio, where it met with a bad market, having fetched only six shillings, the gross price. Indeed, while the freight continues at its present rate, (three shillings per bushel), and bagging equally expensive, I see no chance of the grower ever obtaining a remunerating price for his produce.

This evil will, I hope, soon be remedied, and if the shipper can but obtain goods (which will be readily accepted) in exchange for his cargo, I have little doubt that a trade might be speedily opened with any foreign port adjacent. There are at present, several small vessels, almost entirely appropriated to the Sydney trade, whose size varies from one to two hundred tons, and which generally perform the passage there and back, in a month: the tonnage of these craft renders them extremely well adapted for the river. In stating this I do not mean to assert, nor should I for one moment wish it to be supposed, that there are any impediments in the river Tamar to prevent vessels of much larger tonnage entering or discharging at the port; for instance, the Admiral Cockburn, burthen three hundred and fifty tons, came within a cable's length of the jetty, took in a heavy cargo, and sailed out in perfect safety; but vessels of the before-mentioned tonnage, are more convenient, not only for the trade to New South Wales, but also to load and discharge, which they do by lying alongside the jetty erected on the banks of the river, and immediately connected with the town. The tide rises fifteen feet at Launceston, and although the wind generally prevails up the river, most vessels drop down in two tides, a distance of forty-three miles. The passage is pleasant, and by no means so difficult or dangerous as has been represented; and therefore I have felt it the more incumbent to be explicit and faithful in my description, considering it the duty of every writer to use his most effectual means in counteracting the injurious tendency of such reports.

The entrance to the river is good and well defined, and with a Flinders' chart may be approached with perfect safety; indeed, if proper care and attention had been paid to the general buoying and pilotage of the river, all the prejudice and difference of opinion which exist, would never have been agitated. However, I am convinced the impediments have arisen from no natural causes; indeed, from various conversations I had with individuals who are well informed on the subject, I can positively assert, that there is nothing in the river Tamar to prevent its being made one of the safest and most commodious ports, either for discharging or taking in cargoes. The land on both sides of the Tamar, is rather thickly timbered, and possesses a very small portion of any that is available. I here speak not only from my own knowledge, but from the very limited number of settlers, and the diminutive extent of their farms.

A stranger, looking from Launceston down the river, would doubt my veracity, as there are two or three useful-looking farms contiguous to the town. Mr. Barnes, an extensive brewer, has a small quantity of arable land on the hill to the west, which slopes gradually down to the water's edge. This gentleman has six thousand acres at the back, the generality of which is extremely bad. A man who would expend a sum for the actual improvement of such an extent of land, deserves a much better grant.

A bend of the North Esk, prior to its forming a junction with the Tamar, bounds an extensive swamp of very rich desirable land, which is opposite to the above farm: this swamp, towards the conclusion of Colonel Sorrel's administration, was applied for, and granted (I conceive extremely imprudently) by that gentleman to certain individuals; it appears tome the town will ultimately extend across the North Esk and down the east banks of the Tamar; if so, the swamp will certainly become of essential benefit to the public. That such was the opinion entertained by the settlers, I need only add, that a petition was presented by a number of highly respectable individuals to Governor Arthur, "praying him to annul the late order of Colonel Sorrel." As a proof that the governor's and the council's opinion also, coincided with that of the people, the order was immediately countermanded, and the swamp is once more the property of the government.

Proceeding down the river, you pass several small farms on each side; but except the grants of Messrs. George and Charles Barnard, there are none above two or three hundred acres. Indeed I have no hesitation in saying, that on each side to George Town, there are not three hundred acres under cultivation amongst the whole of them. The mountains approach much nearer to the banks on the western side, than the eastern; the pleasant hills, and the asbestos backing in the river on the former side, and Mount Direction and other intermediate mountains on the latter. About twenty miles down the river, on the western side, are situated the Supply Mills, erected at a considerable expense by Mr. Charlton, to whom great credit is due for such an important and valuable undertaking. They stand at the extremity of a small bay, at the mouth of a beautiful fresh-water stream, and although designated the Supply River, is nothing more than a rapid stream flowing from the adjoining mountains; however it supplies water enough to keep the mills going, winter and summer, and which are capable of grinding and dressing four hundred bushels of grain per day. From their advantageous contiguity to the river, and the easy access to vessels going to Sydney, it will appear a matter of surprise that they should be allowed to remain unemployed; such, however, is the case, and it only proves how much men of enterprise are wanted in Tasmania.

GEORGE TOWN.

About eighteen miles from these mills is George Town, situated on the eastern bank of the river, and which, during Major-General Macquarrie's government, and Colonel Sorrel's administration, formed the head-quarters on that side of the island; at present the settlement is nearly abandoned, though there is still a detachment of the veterans, and a considerable number of prisoners. A female factory was established here some years ago, which is still kept up for refractory females. The town is well supplied with water, but the land in the vicinity is extremely barren and unfit for the purposes of cultivation. As a military station, however, I am inclined to think George Town may deserve the particular consideration of government.

On the opposite side to George Town, is the estate and cottage of Captain Townsend, an old and much respected colonist, and formerly an officer in the 102d regiment. Three miles from the town is the mouth of the river; on the eastern side, stands the house of the pilot, which also serves as a signal station. Considerably to the eastward of George Town, are some small parcels of good land: on the banks of Piper's River the land is fertile, but extremely limited, and rather thickly wooded. There is a bar at the entrance of the river, that will allow the traveller to cross when the tide ebbs, without taking him very deep; this part of the island is very little known, and as you proceed more into the interior, it is much less so; indeed, with the exception of myself and one or two servants who accompanied me, I may say it is entirely unknown.

Having been unfortunately cast away on the North side of the coast between Cape Portland and the llingaroome River, I had an opportunity of surveying a great portion of the land extending eastward to the Bay of Fives, and I must confess a worse country I never saw. The open plains appeared to bear a short sort of broom; the soil, too, very much resembled the worst description of heath land in England; the forest land consists chiefly of small stony hills, the intervening flats bearing nothing but short scrub; kangaroos were very scarce, and I hardly saw a mimosa tree, two certain indications of bad and useless land.

The Ringaroome River opens into the sea at the extremity of a deep bay, and, like most of the rivers in Van Diemen's Land, has a bar at its entrance, yet small vessels could easily get over at flood tide; the mouth of the river, I should think, was about one hundred yards wide, and gradually opened into one of the most beautiful basons I ever saw. This fine sheet of water appeared the rendezvous of hundreds of black swans, wild ducks, and pelicans: the surrounding banks were covered with cherry-tree and other small shrubs; altogether it had much the appearance of a piece of water formed to adorn the park of some of our nobles in England. Proceeding one day's journey up the river, about thirty miles, the land on each side, for some distance, appeared to be very good; but as it was evidently below the level of the river, I fear it would be inundated throughout the winter. As we advanced higher up, and nearer the mountains, it became regularly narrower; but as we were unarmed, and expecting to meet with the natives, we deemed it prudent not to proceed further, and therefore made for the coast.

Crossing the country to the north-east in this direction, I was unsuccessful in falling in with any good land; the country appeared well watered by small running streams and large lagunes; but, from what I saw of this part of the island, 1 would not recommend any one to attempt to settle near it.

The country to the westward of the Tamar, is completely different. There are three streams which empty themselves into Bass's Straits; these are called the First, Second, and Third Western Rivers; on some of them the largest cattle-holders have extensive runs. I must not fail to impress upon the minds of those who are in search of land, to try this part of the island. At the extremity of the north-west point of the island, the Van Diemen's Land Company, under the direction of Edward Curr, Esq. J.P., have chosen their grant of two hundred thousand acres; but as the distance is out of reach of the settler, nobody can know how they are proceeding; they have already made very extensive purchases in sheep, cattle, and mares, and appear to go on with great caution and judgment.

* Grain is sold in the colonies by the bushel, and not by the quarter.

CHAPTER XIII.

RETURN FROM LAUNCESTON THROUGH PATTERSON'S AND EMU PLAINS, CROSSING THE NILE TO THE FOOT OF BEN LOMOND, AND RETURNING TO NORFOLK PLAINS UP THE LAKE RIVER, AND UP THE POPULOUS DISTRICT OF THE MACQUARRIE.

HAVING now seen the extremity of the located parts of the island, I will again conduct the reader to Hobart Town, taking, by a different road, a view of every thing that is worth noticing in the route. On leaving Launceston, you proceed out at the east end of the town; as you ascend the hill on its summit, you have a delightful view of the picturesque beauties of the river, and its thickly wooded banks, with the lofty and majestic looking mountains: descending the hill you have a view of a very rich extent of swamp, a great part of which is covered with white clover. The reader may wonder how the grasses of England could grow in such luxuriance on a swamp unlocated and uncultivated; the explanation may not be uninteresting, and will serve to show what might be done with a little exertion and trouble. An officer of a regiment then stationed on the island, used, in riding in the environs of the settlement, to carry in his pocket a small quantity of clover seed, and as he rode about the swamp, or the banks of the North Esk, he would now and then throw a small nip of it on the earth; and from this whimsical transaction now exist many acres of luxuriant clover.

On the left, as you proceed along the high road, are three very good farms. The first is Mr. Dry's; the premises are very good and extensive; the house stands in the middle of some extensive paddocks, a great part of which are laid down in English grasses. The farm opposite was formerly Mr. Mulgrave's, but was sold by that gentleman to Mr. Hobler: here is a striking instance of the judiciousness of the plan which I have recommended to those who have the means of purchasing: this farm is separated from Mr. Dry's by the North Esk, and contains about eight hundred acres of good land, part of it a rich swamp covered with clover. Mr. Hobler only entered on this land in the latter end of the year 1826, but from his having been many years a practical agriculturist, and pursuing a proper system, I dare assert he has already realized much more off it than the amount of his first purchase.

A neat cottage built of terre pisée*, stands in a delightful situation on the rising banks fronting the windings of the Esk: a small enclosed farm under cultivation on this side of the river belongs to Thomas Cookson Simpson, Esq. J.P. From this spot you have a view of Towers' distillery, built by a person of that name at considerable expense. This gentleman distils colonial whiskey from either barley or wheat, and which is sold or given to the settler in exchange for that description of grain. Two or three miles along a pleasant road, with now and then a small cottage or two bursting upon your view, you arrive on Patterson's Plains, a fine rich flat of black loamy land; and although it has been very slovenly farmed for many years, it still retains a great portion of its goodness. On the opposite side is a farm belonging to Mr. Hill; a large lofty unsheltered stone house stands on the brow. There is no extent of land located on the other side of the hill. An excellent water-mill, the property of Mr. Yates, stands on the Esk, and is situated very conveniently in a good corn district. There are but one or two houses on this side the Plains, and those, like the land, wear the appearance of neglect: the land uncultivated to the right is very good, and affords fine feed for cattle; indeed, there cannot be chosen finer grants than those I am about to describe.

Continuing on through this rich vale, you pass the house and grant of Mr. Rose. The paddocks are enclosed, and under cultivation; the soil here seems to be a rich black loam, of impenetrable depth: the same description of soil runs up the valley, hemmed in by gently rising hills, to the residence of major Mc Leod; the house of this gentleman, though not very pleasantly situated, fronts a fine enclosed arable farm on a sloping hill; the buildings and thrashing machine are also erected ou the same slope; beneath these is an extensive garden: the major is a considerable landholder, and also owns an excellent water-mill about a mile from the punt ferry on the South Esk.

I believe I may venture to assert, that there are not ten acres of bad land on this or any of the estates surrounding. At the back of Major Mc Leod's, about two miles, are the farms of Messrs. Sutherland and Lett; the latter gentleman has built a house of brick, large enough for a county infirmary. 1 once paid a visit to it on business, and on entering the anti-room was surprised to see hanging up, either as ornamental furniture, or as a place of security, a good fat pig, and the side of a bullock. OntherightofMajorMcLeod'sgrant, are the grants of Dr. Owen and others, besides several farms in the occupation of Messrs. Bartley and Sinclair; these extend nearly to the road leading from the punt to Launceston. Leaving the major's, you still keep up the valley, where the land is as good the whole of the way as can be found anywhere in the island.

The country here begins to run more into upland farms, although they are equally good in the quality of the soil. At the back of these grants, for many miles in extent, is a fine country, moderately wooded; it runs in an easterly direction to the large mountains that approach the coast: the North Esk rises from the springs which flow from these mountains. There is a considerable quantity of land that would answer the purposes of the grazier and breeder, and the new settler would be amply paid for a search among these wilds. Beyond the above grants are several other small farms, also one purchased by Mr. J. Thomas; but, as it would considerably exceed the limits of this little work, to enumerate the immense tracts of land in this neighbourhood under cultivation, and the names of the proprietors, I shall conduct the inquirer to such estates as are of importance, and, generally speaking, well farmed. Indeed, the whole of this part of the island contains so many acres of good land, that corn may be grown to any extent, without incurring much outlay in clearing and grubbing.

Leaving this part of the country, and taking a direction more to the south-east, you pass the beautifully cleared arable farm of Capt. Barclay, which, with the female cattle and working bullocks, is now let for seven years to Messrs. D. and W. Grey. There is not a grant in the whole island equal to this in point of situation and goodness; the paddocks are all enclosed, and very considerable; and the worthy captain informed me that most of them had actually been cropped for eleven successive years with wheat! The grazing land on this estate is equally as good as the ploughed, and affords ample feed for a herd of an hundred breeding and milking cows.

There is a considerable portion of land in cultivation on the banks of the South Esk, not far from the last grant; it is principally let out to " ticket-of-leave," and free men, at a yearly rent, payable in wheat. On the left of the road, as you pass these farms is a small public house, which, instead of affording refreshment to the traveller, encourages the servants of the settler to acts that will enable them to purchase rum. Leaving these farms, you approach within a few yards of the ford, which I pointed out when passing the house of Mr. Gibson; the ride from hence to the beautiful estate of James Cox, Esq. J.P. is one continued tract of fine grazing land: on entering Mr. Cox's estate, through a strong post and four-railed fence, nothing is wanting but a neat porter's lodge, to give it the appearance of approaching a nobleman's seat. Entering by the gate through the fence, you cross an extensive enclosure, well stocked with quiet cattle: the beautiful scenery to the right, the rich herbage over which you ride, and the treat of seeing a herd of beasts tolerably quiet, would almost tempt one to envy Mr. Cox. As you approach the dwelling-house, surrounded by extensive outbuildings, you trace the course of the Esk, from its banks producing here and there small patches of the tea tree. The rich alluvial flats to the right of the house, are divided into regular fields (or, as they are more commonly called in Tasmania, "paddocks") by post and rail fences; these flats are subject to floods in the rainy season. The arable land lies to the eastward of the house, all well cleared and fenced; small enclosures of English grasses are also seen; a good garden well stocked with choice fruit trees, in short every tiling that, can be desired, is to be found upon this estate. Few people, I am of opinion, could view this place without wishing they had taken a trip to Tasmania many years ago. Mr. Cox, besides an extensive grant, which he richly deserves, has also purchased a considerable quantity of land; and I am informed he has from ten to twelve thousand acres fenced in.

Leaving this estate to the left, you proceed over the Nile, or, as it is more commonly called, Cox's Creek: on the right is an estate called Coolmore; it was the grant of the late Captain Ostler, and consists of two thousand acres of useful land, well watered, and adjoining the estate of Mr. Cox; it was advertised for sale in August, 1827. On the left, after crossing a small wooden bridge, is an additional grant of Captain Barclay's. The land appears very good, although there is a considerable portion of forest and scrub on the banks of this creek: on the right are seen the grant and cottage of Dr. Cameron, with a small paddock of arable land. The country to the left is thinly timbered, and covered with a rich coat of kangaroo grass, extending to the foot of the mountains. I fear there is but very little chance of selecting even a small grant in this neighbourhood, the extent and goodness of the land having long since claimed the attention of discerning locaters.

The ride from this place to the grant of the late Colonel Mc Leod, is very delightful; the country is moderately level, and slopes gradually down to the banks of the South Esk, indeed, it may almost be called one open plain of rich pasture, dotted thinly over with timber. This estate is enclosed by the windings of the South Esk on the west, and partly by the enclosures of Mr. Cox on each side, who has another estate nearer Ben Lomond. A small weather-boarded cottage stands pleasantly surrounded by enclosures of cultivated land, where the pastures are stocked with herds of sheep and beasts, which are seen quietly grazing on this fine estate, now the property of the Messrs. Mc Leod's. Leaving this farm on the right, and proceeding along a well diversified road to the farm of Mr. R. White, on the opposite side of the creek, (which is one of the tributary streams of the South Esk) is the house and homestead of Mr. Massey, who owns a considerable grant of land; his buildings and premises are substantial and commodious. Mr. M. appears to have paid particular attention to his garden, and has collected some of the finest fruits in the island.

Proceeding higher up, and nearer to the source of the South Esk, about six miles towards Ben Lomond, you arrive at the grant of Mr. J. Bateman; the improvements made upon the estates of this gentleman and those of Mr. Massey (both of whom are natives of the colony), do them much credit, and present a striking instance of the uniform perseverance of the respectable native-born youths. There is an extensive country beyond this, contiguous to the rise of the South Esk, which is deserving the notice of the emigrant; a number of settlers have herds of cattle running over it; amongst others maybe named Messrs.Earle, Smith, Staines, and Troy. The accession of settlers in this neighbourhood, and progressive grants, will, I apprehend, speedily form a good junction of road from hence to Campbell Town, on the main track across the island; and which is at present good, agreeable, and not difficult to find.

Having now conducted the reader as far to the north-eastward as the located parts extend, I shall proceed to the populous and cultivated district of Norfolk Plains, by the way of Mr. Cox's, and back to the government punt on the Esk. Turning to the right, after crossing, you ride through a tract of grazing country, rather heavily timbered, but perfectly clear from brush or scrub. A well beaten tract leads you to the enclosures of Mr. Bonney; here again, after losing sight of it for some time, you have a view of the windings of the Esk. A neat retired cottage stands on an elevated bank, close to the river. A mile or two from this is the grant of Mr. Walker; a considerable quantity of land under the plough is enclosed, and runs down to the edge of the Esk: a more beautiful little farm, or better land, need not be desired. Immediately opposite, is the pleasantly situated cottage and grant of Captain Ritchee.

The land on either side the river is composed of deep rich mellow loam, impregnated with the excellent sediment left by the floods. Mr. Walker's house and out-buildings are particularly neat; a somewhat remarkable circumstance, for although many settlers are particular as to their house, the yards adjoining maybe seen strewed with old sheep skins and bullock hides, and here and there a broken cart or plough.

Leaving this farm and keeping on by the side of the enclosures, you enter upon the estate of Thomas Archer, Esq. J.P., and member of the legislative council. This gentleman has by far the largest establishment of any individual in the country. As you ascend the hill, which brings you in view of the house and premises, you have a commanding prospect of the houses and farms situated in the valley, and of the country extending to the Western Mountains: the buildings on this estate are very numerous. Mr. A.'s house fronts the Lake River and Norfolk Plains. One is naturally surprised, especially an Englishman, to find so little attention paid to elegance or comfort in the arrangement and buildings in the island generally; and more particularly in this spot, where there has been a large outlay of capital, with very extensive means to accomplish such plans; still you observe none of that neatness or convenience so constantly displayed in a large farm-house or homestead in England.

The quantity of meat consumed on this estate, I am informed, exceeds eight hundred wethers annually, besides beasts and pigs. There is no estate in the island, of similar extent, that has been enclosed at less expense; it is bounded on both sides by large rivers, which are constantly supplied with water enough to keep cattle or sheep from crossing. Leaving Mr. Archer's house, you proceed along the banks of the river, keeping the Western Mountains on the left, until a shallow place, called "Mountgarret's Ford", allows you to cross.

Having now reached Norfolk Plains, I will conduct the traveller along the western banks of the river. The house opposite the ford, and the ploughed land adjoining, are the property of Mr. J. Archer, who lately purchased them of Dr. Mountgarret: the land is very good, and fronts the house of the former. Keeping along the banks of this pleasant river, the land on both sides is very productive; the whole of it on the opposite side, as far as the junction of the two streams, belongs to Mr. Archer. There is nothing in the appearance of the many settlers' houses on these plains (with the exception of a very handsome brick-built dwelling by Mr. Littleton) which would lead one to suppose the land had been located as early as any of the parts on the north side.

The communication between these districts and Launceston, is carried on by means of a punt ferry, the private property of Mr. Brumly. The Esk, however, in summer, is fordible in many places. This stream, as well as those spoken of lately, are comparatively of but little value, in consequence of their not being navigable, and the utter impossibility of ever making them so; the South Esk particularly, as it approaches Launceston, flows through immense ravines, and disembogues itself into the Tamar, over numbers of splendid cataracts. Opposite the river, on a rise of most excellent land, are several small farms in cultivation: and considerably to the left, in a retired situation, is an extensive farm belonging to Mr. Reiby; this gentleman is by far the largest dairyman in the island.

This beautiful district contains so many inhabitants, and the quantity of land in cultivation so much exceeding any other part of the island, that I shall merely state, in general terms, that the farms which occupy the banks of the river on the north side of the plains, contain principally from one to two hundred acres, and are occupied, generally speaking, by native youths, and others who have been a long time in the island.

Mr. Curr, in his work, gives a melancholy description of the moral turpitude of the inhabitants in this neighbourhood, and I believe not without reason. Since that period (1820), I should say it is more improved, in point of society, than any part of the island; and I am inclined to think, until very lately, it has been overlooked by government; for, up to the latter part of the year 1827, there was only a corporal's guard; and soldiers are not stationed there to become police officers, and searchers after sheep and cattle-stealers. This evil, however, I am happy to say, will soon be remedied, for in addition to Malcolm Laing Smith, Esq. being stationed as the police-magistrate for the district, the government is about to erect a gaol and court-house, and put on an additional number of field police.

Considerably to the westward, there is a vast extent of country, and notwithstanding many of late have selected grants, yet there will be, for some years, plenty of land to spare; although the country is heavily timbered, it is clear of scrub, and affords feed for immense quantities of cattle and sheep. The stock-runs of Messrs. Simpson, Dry, Gibson, Ritchee, Field, Reiby, Littleton, Ortel, and others, are all situated to the westward. I should think there cannot be less than twenty thousand head of cattle grazed on or about the banks of the different western rivers.

Taking a course back through these plains, you pass several cottages belonging to small settlers; the land runs a considerable deal wider from the river, as you get to the southern part of this settlement. I confess I was never more astonished than when I saw the whole of this rich flat in the same state of apparent neglect; the land is of the richest quality, and the distance from Launceston, from any part of these plains, not more than from ten to fifteen miles. The proprietors of these farms have, for many years, had frequent opportunities of selling wheat at £1 per bushel, and seldom less than from 10s. to 15s., yet, in the whole of this extensive settlement, there is scarcely, I believe, five hundred rods of fencing done (except what has been completed by Mr. Littleton, and the Van Diemen's Land Agricultural Establishment). In short, the savings that should have been laid out in improvements, and in bringing up a family with credit, have been too generally squandered in idleness and dissipation.

On the left of the road at the extremity of Norfolk Plains, is the farm of the Van Diemen's Land and New South Wales Agricultural Establishment. This estate was purchased of the executors of the lute Mr. Duncan; and the Company's agent has also taken the land granted to them at the back, so that they now command a certain proportion of river frontage, which they otherwise could not have approached.

The fencing (which is the very best I ever saw), encloses two thousand acres, the greater part of which is very good land; although from its near approach to the river, and its flat situation, it is subject to the floods that generally occur during the months of August and September. The large enclosure is subdivided into lesser ones, for the purpose of cultivation, and the growing of English grasses. The country at the back of this farm is neither so extensive nor so good as the generality of land 1 have lately described; and the chain of mountains which run from the north-west, approach nearer the located parts immediately at the back of this estate, consequently not allowing the same extent of available laud, as they do more to the northward. The country is heavily timbered, but, from its flat situation, produces abundance of coarse feed. The soil is a mixture of strong marl and clay, and would produce luxuriant crops of corn. There is a greater proportion of decayed timber strewed about in this part than in any other I ever saw, owing to the stock-keepers and others setting the grass on fire in summer. The black appearance of the trees which are still standing and partly burnt, and the miserable picture of those burnt down, render the face of the country extremely desolate and cheerless.

Proceeding onwards, you have an excellent view on the opposite side of the river, of part of the estate and buildings of Mr. J. Archer, brother to the gentleman of that name before mentioned. The lake river encloses a greater part of the farm; the rest is enclosed with posts and rails. The farm itself is not of the first class, but is conveniently situated, and of course becomes more valuable in consequence of having so much of the river to enclose it. This gentleman has built a small but handsome cottage on a dry gravelly bank, and has shown more taste and judgment in the arrangement of his house and out-buildings, than any person on the north side; they are extensive and convenient, and are situated at a proper distance from his house. It appears to me to have been a general system pursued by settlers to crowd their buildings altogether, as if they were confined for room; indeed, it is no uncommon circumstance to see the prisoners' hut, cattle yards, pig styes, &c., all within twenty or thirty yards of each other: this is more particularly observable where the places have been built by early emigrants. Passing the house and farm of Mr. Brumby, a very old settler, you cross a tributary stream of the Lake River (commonly known as Brumby's Creek); from hence you have a view of the lofty mountains to the westward, covered with trees of a moderate size. Crossing a plain of pretty good land, with lagunes here and there dispersed, you arrive at the grant of Mr. Lawrence; a large paddock of land has been cleared and grubbed at a considerable expence, and is now under cultivation. The march of improvement exhibited here is much beyond the reach of the generality of settlers; the fencing is extensive and very good, and I hope Mr. Lawrence will be amply repaid for his large outlay of capital. Mr. L. resides in Launceston. About a mile from this farm, and through the enclosures of the estate, a plain road leads to a good gravelly ford over the Lake River; here are several very neat farms, and a great deal of good land. To the right, before crossing the river, opposite the extremity of Mr. Lawrence's grant, is the farm of the late Mr. Curling, but purchased of the widow of that gentleman by Captain Carns, commander and owner of the Cumberland. There are some extensive and delightful sheep hills on both these estates.

After crossing the ford, you fall in with one or two grants, partly enclosed and cultivated, belonging to Messrs. Young and Fletcher: and higher up, to the right, are the grants of Messrs. O'Conner, Parker, and others. Beyond these grants the country is rather mountainous, and continues so to the Lakes, from whence the Lake River takes its source. A few soldiers, a chief district constable, and a field police-man, are stationed in this quarter.

On the left of the ford is a direct road which leads to Mr. Corney's. The Lake River here overflows into an immense marsh, and spreads itself into large deep lagunes, which are generally well stocked with all kinds of wild fowl.

The house of Mr. Corney is pleasantly situated on the banks of the Macquarrie; the junction of the lake with the latter is formed about three hundred yards from Mr. Corney's dwelling, and represents an angle on two sides of the grant. Leaving the cultivated part of this estate to the left, you proceed on a hard beaten road to the farm of Thomas Cookson Simpson, Esq. J. P., leaving Mrs. Von Bibra's on the left. To the right is a small forest which backs on the grants of Messrs. Young and Fletcher; this thickly wooded wilderness affords abundance of timber for fencing. The grant of Mr. Simpson is also situated on the banks of the Macquarrie; and the whole of the front, for many miles, is enclosed by a bend in that stream. There are innumerable enclosures running back from the river, many of which are under cultivation: the land here is extremely rich and deep, and bears abundant crops of wheat. An excellent well-built stone house, stands on a pleasant bank not many yards from the water; the garden is also very large and well stocked. The buildings are extensive, and kept in excellent order; altogether Mr. Simpson's is a very superior place.

Opposite this estate are the grants of Captain Watson, Mr. Stoddart, Mr. Dixon, and many others. The high road from this farm, keeping still along the banks of the Macquarrie, leads into one of the most beautiful districts I ever saw.— From the outer boundary line of Mr. Simpson's fence to Ross Bridge, is about sixteen miles. A chain of moderate sized mountains, varying from two to six miles, runs parallel with the river. The land on the banks of both sides of the river to Ross Bridge, is located by numbers of respectable settlers, English and Scotch (the latter I think predominate); many of whom have built very pretty houses, and a great portion of them have small farms in cultivation, merely to supply their own establishments, the distance from either side of the island being too great to admit of growing corn for market. There are more sheep bred and fed on the grants in this district, than in any part of the island, and, generally speaking, notwithstanding the numbers that are seen grazing, they appear in good health and condition.

Having now arrived again at Ross Bridge, it will not be necessary for me to repeat my notice of the country to Hobart Town. I shall, therefore, proceed to describe the settlement of "Oyster Bay, or Little Swan Port," situated on the eastern coast. On account of the distance by water, and the difficult route by land, this settlement, until the last year or two, has made but little progress. However, from the probability of its ultimately becoming an extensive whale fishery, I have no doubt many settlers will find it to their advantage to take their land at or near Oyster Bay. Swan Port is at the most northerly point of the bay, where Mr. Meredith has been settled for years; besides breeding and feeding cattle extensively, Mr. M. has succeeded in catching several very fine fish every season.

There are many thousand acres of land of pretty good quality around the settlement, and to the north of it several extensive tracts of good land, well watered. Five or six emigrants who have been brought up to agricultural pursuits, have explored the country contiguous to the coast, near the settlement, and have located there. Previous to my leaving Somersetshire, two farmers and their families had gone to establish dairies; and I have very little doubt that many others have since followed their example.

Between Oyster and Frederic Hendrick's Bay, is Maria Island, a small tract of exceeding bad land, and consequently of very little value. This place has been long made a penal settlement, and thither are sent those who offend against the laws of the island. What they do, or how they are employed, I have never been able to learn. The island produces very little timber, and that not good for much. Major Lord is the commandant, and all other officers are under his direction.

Macquarrie Harbour, another penal settlement, is situated directly on the opposite side of the island; to this place the most incorrigible are sent, and whose punishment is much more severe than at the former settlement. Many prisoners that have been reprieved by the governor and council, are sent here for life, some of whom are sentenced to work perpetually in irons. They are employed mostly in felling timber and preparing it for the pit; some are engaged in building boats and small vessels for government. The rations of these malefactors consist of a small quantity of salt beef and biscuit: when their day's work is finished, they are conveyed from the mainland to a small island called "Sarah's Island," and placed in a strong building erected for the purpose, where they are locked up during the night. Captain Butler was the commandant in 1827.

The country around the settlement is described by those who have seen it as being barren and unfit for the purposes of either agriculture or grazing; if what the prisoners say about Macquarrie Harbour be any criterion to judge by, it must be a most dreadful place. I have heard men say they would much rather be hanged than go there for life; and I have very little hesitation in saying, many murders have been committed by individuals (who had lost all hope of escaping) merely for the purpose of ridding life of the severe punishments their crimes had so richly deserved.

Of the western side of the country, I have said but very little; and from its being almost totally unknown, I was not able to collect any information that could be relied on. Many individuals are of opinion that there is an equal proportion of good land beyond the western tier, and continuing to the north-west; and if one may judge by the Van Diemen's Land Company, who have selected it, it is no doubt a very fine tract. However, it is both improbable and impossible that such an extent of country should not contain many thousand acres of useful land.

Having now described, to the best of my ability, the whole of the settled portions of the island, I must invite the reader's attention to an account of the various little farms at Sandy Bay, a pleasant ride from Hobart Town of about four miles, along the western banks of the Derwent. Many of these farms have been in cultivation nearly twenty years; the soil is light and sandy, and very inferior. The situation of Sandy Bay is so delightful, that several individuals have purchased small estates for the purpose of erecting there quiet retired residences. Two of the most valuable farms at the extremity of the bay, are in the possession of George Cartwright, Esq., an eminent solicitor. On one of these estates a pleasant little cottage is erected, and a delightful garden fronting it. From the cottages on the high bank you command a view almost to the entrance of Storm Bay, and of the shipping coming up the river. At the back of these farms, the green wooded hills run in succession to the mountains, and afford but little feed for any description of cattle; strangers, indeed, who visit Hobart Town on their voyage to Sydney or elsewhere, and never leave the vicinity of the town, would be entirely disappointed as to the fertility of the country; and but for the beautiful and tasteful places about New Town, might feel inclined to pronounce it as totally barren, and undeserving the character of a fine country; but in the course of my tour, I think I have sufficiently shown the futility of such an opinion. My principal object has been to give a faithful description of the parts settled, without in the least, flattering the country. Some very fine farms may have escaped my notice; but such as I have attempted to describe, will, I am sure (by those who may see them hereafter) be found to verify what I have said of them.

Of land unlocated, there is yet a great deal well worth taking, and many grants are still to be chosen within reach of Launceston. As population increases, the various townships, at present only in perspective, will also become markets, where the now solitary settler will be enabled to dispose of his grain and other commodities, the produce of his farm.

* Rammed earth.

CHAPTER XIV.

ADVICE TO THE EMIGRANT AS TO THE BEST METHOD OF CHOOSING A FLOCK OF SHEEP; THE BAD AND GOOD BREEDS DESCRIBED; ALSO THE SYSTEM OF SHEEP HUSBANDRY, AND THE DISEASES MOST COMMON TO THEM; SHEEP ON THE THIRDS, &c.

EVERY person who emigrates with the idea of following the pursuits of a farmer and grazier, should, in my opinion, make a flock of sheep his peculiar study. To such I address myself more particularly; and I sincerely hope the few hints I am about to offer, may be productive of benefit.

In the first instance, be cautious of whom you purchase, always remembering that you are in a remote country, and a stranger to the deceptions frequently practised upon the newly imported emigrant. Before you select a flock of ewes, consider well the situation and extent of your grant, its capabilities, &c. If you study your own interest, you will go very far back, where you are likely to have an immense extent of country for years; for although you may be sometimes annoyed by vermin in these distant runs, still they are to be speedily extirpated. If, on the contrary, you select one or two thousand acres in a confined country, it is essential to know that you cannot keep more than five or six hundred breeding ewes, and your wethers will seldom get fat; you will also be constantly plagued with adjacent flocks.

The situation of your grant, its capabilities, &c., will in some measure, assist in guiding your attention to breeding for the fine wool market, or the butcher; both claim your particular regard, and, if conducted properly, cannot fail to realize a very handsome return.

The sheep first imported into Van Diemen's Land, came from Bengal direct. In describing the form of some that have originated from them, without being at all improved, I cannot refrain from recommending you to have nothing to do with them. Although you may not have had much experience amongst sheep, yet I have no doubt you will be able to recognise them from the following description. Their form, as near as possible, is this: a very large head, Roman nose, slouch ears, extremely narrow in the chest, plain narrow shoulders, very high curved backs, and a coarse hairy fleece; these bad qualities, with four tremendous long legs, give a faithful representation of the native sheep; yet from these animals have emanated all the improved flocks now in the country.

To whom the credit is due for introducing the fine-woolled sheep husbandry in Tasmania, I know not, although I believe Mr. Humphrey was one of the first to promote it. Those who began to improve early, have felt its good effects, yet I am inclined to think some of the latest emigrants have done more to benefit the colony by introducing the pure Saxon breed direct, than all the united attempts of the old settlers. The country is particularly indebted to Mr. Gilles, of Merton Vale, for importing several of the finest and best-bred Saxons ever sent from Germany. In a few years this gentleman will, I have no doubt, be able to sell or let to his brother colonists, some of the produce of these high-bred animals.

Having pointed out the description of sheep I wish to be most particularly avoided, I will here give the names of some of the improved breeders, and also a description of the animal I would advise the settler to purchase:—

Mr. Gilles, Merton Vale; Mr. Humphreys, Humphrey Ville; Messrs. T. and J. Archer, Woolmers and Pensangar; Mr. Gregson, Northumbria; Mr. Ed. Abbot, New Norfolk; Mr. Bisdee, near Jericho; Mr. Anstey, Anstey Barton; Mr. Leake, Elizabeth River; Mr. Simpson, Macquarrie; Mr. Home, Ross Bridge; Mr. Cox, Clarendon; Messrs. Bryants, Jericho; Mr. Willis, Wanstead Park; Mr. J. Thomas, Snake Banks; Capt. Wood, Clyde.

There are others, I have no doubt, who are possessed of sheep as good as those of the breeders I have named, but as they do not immediately occur to me, I hope the omission will not be deemed invidious. From any of the above named gentlemen, you will be able, (if they have any to dispose of) to select a flock, or nearly so; at any rate, whether you intend breeding for the wool market, or for the butcher, begin with a good frame, and a tolerable share of high blood. In selecting sheep, do not let their ages exceed two or three years old; the higher they are bred, the greater of course will be the price. Pure Merinos, or sheep nearly pure, are generally out of the reach of most settlers. The price of good healthy ewes, according as they have been improved, may be said to fetch from £1. to £1. 10s.

It may appear unreasonable to suppose that men would sell five hundred young ewes out of a flock. All I can say is, you will have very little difficulty in doing it; sovereigns and dollars will perform wonders in any country, but especially where there are ten sellers to one buyer. The generality of improved sheep is much smaller than the old unsightly breed I have just described; yet their frames are capable of carrying a much larger proportion of flesh, their heads are well set on, eyes bold and prominent, with handsome ears well erect; the shape altogether is compact, though not of that squareness of frame for which some of our English breeds are famed.

The quality of the wool varies exceedingly, from want of attention in the proper crosses. Choose your sheep with the staple as fine and as long as you can, and from flocks that have been crossed with the pure Saxon; the Merino imported from England cannot be depended upon. In my tour through the island, I particularly described the nature of the soil, and the situation most adapted for breeding fine-woolled sheep; you will judge therefore for yourself, how you select a flock. Remember, if you buy sheep highly improved, and bring them to a run inferior to what they have been accustomed, they will deteriorate materially, both in size, and quality of the wool. The land on which they have been fed, should not be of a superior quality to your own grant.

If your land should be tolerably clear of timber, and its situation flat, and unadapted for breeding fine-woolled sheep, I would strongly advise your selecting a flock of coarse wools; by crossing them with some of the imported long wools from England, you very much improve their frames, and by growing artificial food you will very soon be able to supply the market in winter with fat mutton, an article scarcely known in the island at that season.

As yet there are but few long-woolled sheep that have been imported from England; the best I have seen were those brought by the Messrs. Bryants; whether these gentlemen reported them to be pure Leicesters, or not, I cannot say, but such a title was given to them, from having been bred in a village long famed for the finest breed of Leicesters. I have, however, no hesitation in declaring them to be nearly devoid of that blood; still the cross hit well, and there was an evident improvement in the lambs. I had an opportunity of witnessing another cross, between the Southdown and the improved native ewe; and although there were many other rams in the Hock, still I could easily select the lambs so bred from the rest, the size and frame were so obviously improved. Now, neither of these two descriptions of sheep was as good as it ought to have been; therefore, I conceive much good might be done, (where an individual is so situated as to be able to grow artificial food,) by breeding for the meat market; indeed, previous to my leaving the colony, I saw a strong-disposition on the part of one or two large breeders, to go on with the imported long wools: they are aware how numerous the sheep in the island are getting, and that artificial means must be resorted to, in order to insure a good price for their wethers.

I have submitted these few observations merely to show the necessity of paying strict attention to the choice of sheep. It is useless beginning to breed, if not upon correct principles. It is also still highly necessary, that every one should be cautious how he crosses his ewes; the first may do very well, but the second might undo all that had been done. I shall, therefore, conclude by advising the most exemplary care and attention to be bestowed as to the choice of a ram. The Saxons cannot be equalled either in fineness or quality of wool. The Leicesters stand pre-eminent, on account of their superior frames and fine symmetry: from either of these breeds make a selection, and never, if you can avoid it, permit any mongrel-bred sheep to approach your flock. By no means begin with aged ewes; nor by any chance, when you purchase a lot, agree to take them as they run out of the yard; as it is notorious the old ones generally run out first. Always bargain for the sheep to be safely delivered on your grant; this may be all done before you agree as to price, and perhaps be the means of obviating unpleasant differences afterwards.

I shall now proceed to point out the general system of sheep husbandry, and the bad effects resulting from it. It is quite impossible to find a climate more congenial to the health of sheep, than Tasmania, and it is equally impossible to find a country where they receive less attention; nevertheless, if they can get any thing to eat, they increase and thrive. It is a general system with the proprietors of large flocks, to run a great quantity together. I have seen as many as five thousand in one flock; and it is by no means unfrequent to see,two thousand, without the least distinction as to male or female, young or old. It is the practice in New South Wales, where they manage sheep properly, to run three hundred, or scarcely ever more than five hundred, in one flock; nor should more be kept together in Tasmania, if it could be be so managed. I have frequently watched a flock of sheep of one thousand feeding, or rather trying to feed; the wethers and strongest ewes always headed the flock, rushing on constantly before the rest, and leaving the weaker ones to browse over the grass they have soiled.

The evils arising from this system are too numerous to particularize, suffice it to say, they art never entirely free from the scab, and the loss in winter is beyond description. Sheep, in all countries, are amazingly fond of a change of pasture, the advantages derived from which, no one will, I presume, dispute; yet this is seldom or never thought of; and I will venture to assert, there are very few in the country who ever tried it. Another plan, too generally practised, is to allow the ewes to breed twice in fourteen months, a system that tends, more than any thing else, to depreciate the intrinsic value of a flock. It may be asserted by many who have neither choice nor care as to what condition their sheep shall arrive at, that the quantity is what every man should look to; but I will ask, what becomes of the ewe, or what is the value of her fleece after bringing up her lamb; and then, at the expiration of summer, bringing forth another to follow her about all winter? If they both survive, which is not always the case, the lamb is stinted, and frequently a miserable looking object; the mother is equally so, and the flock altogether cuts a wretched appearance. Many, I know, have not sufficient land to divide their flocks into very small lots; but there are few men in any country who are willing to oblige each other at all times: if, therefore, you happen to be so situated as not to have a paddock enclosed large enough to separate the rams from the ewe flock, I should advise your paying some friend to keep them for you; you will never arrive at any thing like perfection by pursuing the system of breeding summer lambs; your flock must inevitably degenerate, and, although you may increase in quantity, your sheep must decrease in value.

The rams should be put to the ewes about the month of January, calculating one male to eighty females. Lambs should be dotted with raddle as soon as they are dropped; a plan that may probably excite the laughter of your neighbours, but the adoption of it will certainly preserve a great many every year. I have seen two flocks mixed together just as the lambing season was over, and I would defy a man to get all his own away with him again; some of his lambs are sure to remain; tmd although your sheep might mix with a flock belonging to the most respectable individual in the country, it would be a very great chance if you did not sustain a partial loss. Your lambs should be castrated at three weeks old, or earlier; it is much better to perform that operation before they are too large. By no means disfigure their ears; it is of no possible use; you cannot deter the sheep stealer from taking them, as he can speedily remove your mark; a small hole in either ears, to distinguish the ewes from the wethers, is quite sufficient., until you wean them; they must then be firebranded, and I am satisfied there is no better preventive against robbery. In stating this opinion, I use the words of an unfortunate man who suffered for the crime of sheep-stealing, and who had avoided, in his extensive robberies, those flocks which were properly branded.— This operation, by the bye, should be done with care; some brand on the forehead, others in the cheek; the latter I prefer, if care is used in not branding too deep, in which case you seriously injure the cartilage of the nose. The letter or design you intend to keep as your mark, should be as plain as possible, so as not to allow of an alteration by another letter being added; for instance, a C could be easily altered by rendering it thus, OC; or by adding another half circle, an O would be made. I, is easily converted into H, or D: the plainest mark I ever saw was a small stroke across the face.

The practice of sheep-stealing was once carried on to an alarming extent; and many who neglected their own interest, have lost from five hundred to one thousand in a year: this generally arose from the want of a permanent criminal court; as those who had been robbed, rather chose to let the thief escape, than take a voyage to Sydney to prosecute, by which both loss of money and time might be incurred, and perhaps get wrecked into the bargain. As there is now a proper police establishment, and the country better peopled, the crime has gradually decreased; and it is quite an uncommon thing to hear of any quantity being stolen. As long as Tasmania exists, and such characters as "ticket-of-leave" men, and others of dissolute habits hold small farms, losses, in a limited degree, will be sustained: such delinquents, indeed, would think it almost a crime to purchase meat: the purloining of half a dozen sheep, however, in a year would not be grumbled at by the settler, provided no more were taken.

I cannot impress too deeply the necessity of weaning lambs at a proper season, say at five or six months' old; there are very few who do so; and it is not an uncommon occurrence to see lambs, not twelve months' old, with a lamb by their side. By weaning lambs at a proper season, you get your flock into some sort of regulation; and although it may require another shepherd, still the system will soon become remunerative. I never heard of an instance during my residence in the island, of a person drafting his aged ewes; they are all allowed to breed until age or infirmity destroys them; this is a system that cannot be too much deprecated, indeed there can be no excuse for doing it. I should particularly recommend the culling, every year, a portion of your full-mouthed ewes; they would answer the same purpose to kill in the house, as wethers, and also prevent the necessity of killing off your sheep too young. There are some persons in the island who make a practice of yarding the sheep every night; a practice which, I am confident, from what I have seen, produces many bad effects, especially where they are folded in great numbers: there is no native dog to destroy them in Tasmania; the only dog to be feared is the two-legged one, and he cannot do you much harm, unless your own shepherd be colleaoued with him.

Sheep are fond of grazing without restraint, and upon the same principle they will choose a dry hill to bed upon, from which, if not disturbed, they rarely ever move until peep of day. The principle of guarding sheep at Sydney is to be commended; they there shift the yard every day or two, which is nothing more than a fold in England; by this means they get their sheep tolerably tame. There are very few people who are at all acquainted with England, but must have noticed and admired the quiet domesticated appearance of the sheep, and particularly amongst the high-bred ones of all classes. I should recommend especial attention to this point; the pleasure derivable from walking quietly amongst them, and viewing their gradual improvement, would amply repay the trouble, although I do not expect to hear of much improvement in this point until turnip pens and clover lays be more frequently introduced.

In the choice of your rams, it is necessary to act with much caution; perhaps no part of your business, as a settler, should be so well considered as this. The price of pure-bred Merinos, or Saxon rams, is always enhanced in consequence of the general demand; and it will take a very serious sum to purchase half a dozen of these animals, which are generally sold at from £10 to £50 each, according as they are bred. I have often thought of a system that might be pursued without detriment to either party: suppose your rams to have been used two seasons, and your neighbour or friend is in a similar situation, an exchange might be made with mutual advantage to both, and thereby save an outlay of capital. I am inclined to think this suggestion worthy of consideration; for, it is only by an union of each other's interest, unmixed with envy or jealousy, that can produce benefit to both parties.

As I advised, in the early part of this chapter, choose your grant in a good dry situation; if you can please yourself in this point, do not regard the distance. You can then divide your flock properly, keeping your young wethers by themselves on a good run, so as to make them fit for the butcher, and your ewe tegs until they are put to the ram, which I should recommend you to do at the age of eighteen months, but not sooner.

The wethers are too frequently sold at an age when they cannot have arrived at any thing like a profitable size; but the butchers trouble themselves as little about it as the settler, and so long as they will give the same price for a sheep at fifteen months, as at two years' old, it matters not to the breeder. I was surprised to find so little distinction in the price of good three-year old sheep, and those much younger. It appears to have been an old system, that all wethers were worth £1 each; and now that the currency of the country is done away with, they sell at from 15s. to 17s., and the very best at £1 each, sterling. Young wethers at eighteen months' old, generally weigh from ten to twelve pounds a quarter. The ewes are rarely slaughtered, although they would come to very little more weight. The greater portion of the sheep in the island, have had little or no attention paid to them; I allude, more particularly, to the old native sheep, which are found in many parts of the island, and which have gone on breeding in their own way; indeed, as long as there were some wethers to sell now and then, the proprietors of them were indifferent about any thing else.

I must now attempt a description of the shepherds, and their treatment. This class of individuals consists, generally speaking, of your own assigned servants; few people having it in their power, either to find a free man worth £50 a-year, or are possessed of the means to pay such an annual sum.

There are not many of the agricultural class of labourers sent out as transports, and out of this number is to be found a very small proportion of shepherds; therefore it will be necessary to select, out of your own establishment, the steadiest and most careful man you have, who, although he may have been a chimney-sweeper, will do well enough, provided you appropriate a part of your own time to the flock, and can make him watchful of your interest. Servants in England arc not always to be depended upon; why, then, are we to suppose they can be better trusted in a country to which they have been sent as a Duniehment?

Sheep require so little care in Tasmania, that all a man has to do is to keep his eye upon them, and head them, so as to prevent their joining the flocks of others. A prisoner shepherd is generally allowed a little more tea and sugar than those men who are constantly working on the farm: one man will take charge of five hundred sheep, but it is much better to have two; or, if you have a thousand sheep, two to follow the flock, and one to cook and take charge of the hut. Never by any chance allow your shepherds, either free or bond, to keep sheep of their own in your flock; or, if you can avoid it, in that of any one else; the result might be very objectionable, or at best, his ewes would be sure to bring two lambs every year. You have no enclosures to walk through, as in England, nor are your sheep quiet enough to enable you to discern your own property; make, therefore, your shepherd accountable for every death, and never admit of an excuse for his not doing it. By no means neglect counting your sheep at least twice a-week; this you may do throughout the season, except when the ewes are dropping their lambs; it is then necessary to avoid guarding them too frequently. Crows are very destructive to young lambs; the eagles (although not very common) also occasionally dart upon and carry them away in their talons. At this season I should furnish the shepherds with a gun, and a portion of powder and shot; but by no means allow them to have such an engine constantly, or your sheep will be neglected for the better sport of wild duck shooting. Bells are not very commonly used, although I conceive them to be a great acquisition; they serve to frighten any dog who is lurking about; bells, too, are not liked by sheep-stealers; but as the shepherd cannot always keep his flock together in scrubby hilly places, they are more easily found.

There is one product connected with sheep farming which I have not yet treated of; I allude to the wool, an article that should claim particular regard and attention. Previous to shearing, you should select a clear place in the nearest river to wash your sheep; or, if you can dam up any small stream, so as to clean the wool, it is preferable to no washing at all; many, I confess, are awkwardly situated in this respect, and others never take the trouble, although they are close to a fine stream. They do not for a moment think that they are injuring a portion of industrious settlers, who would get their wool up in good condition; this, however, has been fully proved by the London correspondents, who declare that unless the wool imported from Tasmania be got up clean and properly assorted, it is of no use sending it home, as its value will not even pay the freight. I hope this intimation will induce the settler to undertake the management of this department himself: whatever price the wool fetches, after deducting six-pence per pound for shearing, packing, freight and brokerage, is clear profit. There are numbers in the colony, who, to this day, never wash their sheep; and, I declare positively, after shearing, I have seen the wool left strewed about the yard, or in some instances, if carried home, has been given to the store-keeper in exchange for goods at two-pence or three-pence per pound: whereas, had the process of washing taken place, as much as six-pence per pound might have been obtained. When your men are shearing, select all the coarse fleeces and put them aside; do not suffer them to be packed with the rest, as they will lessen the value of the bulk materially. Most of the gentlemen whom I have before alluded to, have a screw press, in which to pack their wool previous to sending it on board ship; those who have not, get it done in town. The generality of improved sheep, clip, upon an average, about two pounds and a-half each; the coarsersort, of which there are many thousands, will clip three pounds. There is no article sent from the country that varies so much in price as wool; this may be easily accounted for: a great deal has been sent home that has never defrayed the expenses of transit; while some have succeeded in obtaining a very handsome price. Middling coarse wools are not worth sending home. Improved wools fetch from 1s. 6d. to 2s. per pound. When you hear of wool making from 7s. 6d. to 10s., you must bear in mind that it is pure Saxon, sent home with great care, and well selected before it was packed. Van Diemen's Land will never, in my opinion, compete with New South Wales in the production of fine wools, unless by very extraordinary exertions; the latter country has made astonishing progress, and will, I think, in a few years produce wool equal in fineness to any in the world.

The sheep of Tasmania are subject to less disease than in any country I ever heard of; there is but one distemper that has introduced itself, and that is of a much milder nature than the disease of that name in England; I allude to the scab, which, although it arises principally from neglect, and the flocks being too thickly grazed, is, I am inclined to think, frequently engendered by the kangaroo or native grass of the country, owing to the speary nature of its seed. This grass sometimes penetrates through the skin, and completely into the carcass; I have seen it in all its stages, partly through the ribs and coats of the stomach, and so far introduced as to penetrate the liver, without a possibility of its coming from the stomach. It requires but little knowledge to discover when the disease makes its appearance; the sheep rub and pull themselves in the same way as in England, and if these symptoms be not speedily eradicated, the disease dries up the skin, and leaves the animal a most unsightly object. Tobacco-water with a little turpentine added, is frequently used; this may stay its progress for a time, but it will make its appearance again in the spring of the year, and requires a good deal of pains and attention to cure. I should think the recipe given by Clater* an effective application; although mercurial ointment should be cautiously used, and the sheep, after they are dressed, shut up in a barn or shed. It is scarcely necessary to add, that every possible means should be used to prevent this exterminating malady; the loss sustained by the wool, where a cure is not speedily effected, is a very important consideration. Although the flies are so obnoxious in summer, I never heard of a sheep being struck by them; and yet I have seen meat blown as soon as it is killed; they frequently deposit their maggots in blankets, woollens, &c. Particular care should be observed in the application of sheep ointment to your ewes with lamb, or with lambs by their side; I have seen the young fall a martyr to such dressing.

The foot-rot (or as it is more properly termed, in England, the halt) is scarcely heard of,in New South Wales the most serious losses arise from it. I am inclined to think it must be something more violent, as the sheep are easily cured, and I never heard of any bad effects from it in England. It generally makes its appearance on the side of the clay, and is eradicated by applying butter of antimony slightly laid on with a piece of stick. The foot-rot is cured by applying caustics and wrapping the foot up in a kind of salve made of tar and mutton suet rendered down together. As the rot has found its way to Australia, I have little doubt that the disease is designated the foot-rot; but it is as bad as the disease in horses called the glanders, and the one, in my opinion, is as speedily cured as the other, namely, by cutting their throats.

Having, I hope, sufficiently explained the nature and management of sheep, it may be presumed, I might give an idea of the profits attached to sheep-husbandry; others have done so I confess. Mr. Wentworth, for instance, would lead one to suppose, that in a few years you would have sheep enough to sell off and return home with a fortune. I have no hesitation in saying, if a man emigrates with the intention of farming and breeding, he cannot embark his capital in a more profitable way; but the main object depends entirely upon his own exertions. I have known many instances of individuals landing in the colony with not £20, and who are now the proprietors of thousands; on the other hand, there are many who had money enough to establish a fine flock, but who may be often seen lying about, the infatuated victims of the rum bottle.

It will be by no means an unimportant duty to watch the actions of your shepherd; you will soon be able to judge, from the manners of the sheep, if he is quiet and careful with them: the less they are driven about the better. If your grant and run are extensive enough, and the land adapted to them, there will be no fear of their doing well; they require but little assistance at the time they are dropping their lambs. I should recommend a correct account to be kept of deaths, numbers killed, and how consumed; if your shepherd reports to you that one died such a day, and so on, see it yourself; if any are lost, stop all luxuries to the shepherd, such as tea, tobacco, &c.; but, above all things, look after the flock yourself.

I will now take leave to address myself to a class of young men, who, in my opinion, are as likely to do well from their own exertions, as any individuals who emigrate. I allude to those who are possessed of very limited means, and who must necessarily labour very hard at home to get £50 a-year. Many a young man so situated would, I have no doubt, emigrate, but, on reflection, is apt to exclaim, "What benefit can I derive by leaving my country and my friends, without sufficient capital to enable me to establish myself when I arrive out?" I will endeavour to show, that provided a young man arrives out with a letter (subscribed by the clergyman of his parish, or some respectable gentleman) addressed to his excellency, or any other influential gentleman in the colony, stating, that the individual who presents it, is honest, sober, and industrious, the bearer will not be long without employment.

To such young men, sheep are given on the "thirds," by those who are the proprietors of thousands, and by others, whose engagements in town will not permit them to devote an exclusive appropriation of their personal attention. The arrangement generally entered into is this:—A agrees to give B four hundred ewes on the "thirds," A providing rams also, which are his individual property. B becomes responsible for the original number of sheep, excepting such as are lost by disease or accident. At the time agreed upon, the produce is divided, and one-third becomes the sole property of B. Generally speaking, the party who belongs to the ewes given on the "thirds," prefers the wether lambs, and as it is very much to the advantage of the other party to procure as many females as he can, this arrangement is not obiected to.

By proper attention to the interest of the party whose sheep you have in your charge, you will have no difficulty in obtaining leave to cultivate ground enough to support yourself and convict servant; indeed, every encouragement is given to a man of industrious habits. A pair of bullocks, a cart, a plough, or any thing else, will be found him. I could mention fifty instances of young men who began in this way, and who are now possessed of good farms and flocks, with every prospect before them of spending the evening of life in happy and peaceful retirement, surrounded by their family and friends.

A few hints as to the best way of obtaining these desirable objects may not be unacceptable. I should advise, in the first place, your keeping a correct account of sheep sent to you, their marks, &c., a regular return of which to be made out every month, and a balance struck every quarter of those killed in the house, the increase and decrease by accident or disease, and the number of males and females; after the first division is made, be very careful in marking your own perfectly distinct from the rest, so that when a separation takes place it may be accomplished without the risk of disagreement. Cattle are given on the "thirds," in a similar way.

* Farmers whose lands lie in a low situation, and are subject to this disease, will find the following recipe of infinite value. Take nitre, in powder, six ounces; ginger, fresh powdered, four ounces; colcothar of vitriol, in fine powder, two ounces; common salt, three pounds and a-lialf; boiling water,-three gallons: pour the water hot upon the ingredients; stir them, and, when about new milk warm, add to every quart of the mixture three ounces of spirit of turpentine, and bottle it for use. The following directions must be strictly regarded. Keep the infected sheep from food all night; on the following morning give to each sheep two ounces, or four table-spoonfuls of the above mixture. (Remember to shake the bottle well at the moment of pouring it out.) To those which are weak and much reduced by the disease, one half, or three parts out of four may be sufficient for a dose. Keep them from food three hours after giving the medicine, and then turn them into a dry pasture. It will be necessary to repeat the medicine every fourth day, for three times, observing the above rules. But where only half the quantity has been administered, it will be proper to repeat it every second or third day, for six times. Every shepherd should be provided with a small horn, containing just the proper quantity; this will save considerable time and trouble, when it is necessary to give the above drink to a number at the same time.—Clater's Cattle Doctor.

CHAPTER XV.

AN ACCOUNT OF THE ORIGIN OF BLACK CATTLE; THE SYSTEM OF BREEDING AND FEEDING, &c. WORKING BULLOCKS; WITH HINTS TO THE SETTLER HOW TO PURCHASE, &c.

THE cattle of Van Diemen's Land were first brought from Norfolk Island, when that place was evacuated; they were sent there from Bengal, and are described as being of a very inferior kind, and from what I have seen of the government herds, they may be easily recognised from their affinity to the buffalo, being much smaller than the generality of beasts in the island; but are, nevertheless, capable of drawing immense loads, and appear hardy and mostly in good condition. The increase of cattle in Tasmania has been most rapid, and to calculate the numbers of either cattle or sheep, would be almost impossible. The same system that has prevailed for many years, is still pursued, namely, extensive herds run promiscuously together, where all sizes and sexes are mingled. The greatest improvement appears to have been made on the north side of the island, where they have never been allowed to degenerate; still the very little attention that has been generally paid towards their improvement, throughout the island, makes me, I confess, astonished to know how they ever became so fine; but when we look at the millions of pastoral acres these herds have had to run over, and no restraint put upon the calf, which is allowed to suck as long as it chooses, it may be easily accounted for.

Numbers of various breeds, from England and Australia, have been imported at different times; although it is not common to discover any particular breed amongst the different herds to be seen in the bush. The finest and best cattle are found on the north side; this may be attributed partly to the immense quantity of luxuriant feed, yet there is a great similarity in their appearance throughout the island. The cattle are generally of the long-horned breed, varying in size and shape in proportion as they have been improved; but numbers, rather than superiority, have been the settler's object.

I have seen, now and then, as hne framed beasts as could be desired, but their general failing is a want of room; they are confined in their frames, and not of very good quality. The cows of the country are the worst milkers, I believe, in existence; but of this I shall treat hereafter.

A proper selection of good cows, and a thorough-bred bull, of any breed, from England, (although, I must confess, I should prefer the short-horn) would soon put them on an equal footing with the rest of the world; but this system is only within the reach of some of the most wealthy settlers, who have large enclosures. A man who has extensive herds of cattle, cannot possibly prevent other herds from mixing with his; discrimination is, therefore, out of the question. Nobody can doubt the good effect that would arise by keeping cattle in enclosures; but the extent of fencing necessary for the purpose would require of the new emigrant a very serious capital.

The largest stock-holders run their cattle on the immense plains contiguous to the mountains; from the natural congeniality of the climate, the cows breed very regular, and young heifers are frequently seen with a calf by their side at fifteen months old. This alone will stop all attempts at improvement; and if they are allowed to run wild, as many thousands do, I fear it will be some time before the evil be removed.

The great increase of cattle has compelled numbers to go very far back, to the unoccupied tracts in the interior, when, having fixed upon a spot well watered, and a tolerable share of feed, they make application to the local government for a "ticket of occupation this is granted upon payment of a small fee. Although this is applied for in some instances, I know many who never troubled themselves about leave, well knowing, that no one would take the trouble of toiling two or three days in the wilds to look after them. The only establishment necessary is to erect a strong stock-yard; this is generally made by cutting down small straight trees, about eighteen inches in circumference; by notching the ends, and laying them one over the other, they form a secure good yard. A small bark hut is erected for the stock-men; the stock is then driven to this place, and, for a night or two, yarded; but, after they once become settled to the run, they are permitted to rove about uncontrolled, and are not gathered more than twice or thrice in the year. The cows, generally speaking, calve about the months of September, October, and November: when the calves are about six months' old, the herd is collected together, and the young male produce is castrated; this operation offers a scene of entertainment which the stock-keepers deem far more preferable than even fox-hunting. They are generally mounted on a horse, "lame, spavined, and wind-galled, but yet with some blood," who understands the business of cattle-hunting; and being furnished with a whip that can crack a pretty loud note, off they set. The pursuers generally know where the different mobs feed, for it is rare to see more than from thirty to fifty together. From being so unaccustomed to see any human being, the young ones generally start off at the sight of men and horses; the old ones know very well what is about to take place, and they too make every effort to get away; but the stock-keepers generally succeed in heading them, although it requires a great share of judgment and no inconsiderable portion of nerve to follow them. The immense trees that lay in the way, and now and then the thick scrubs, with here and there a bog, all require great precaution. If one may judge by the appearance of the horses used in collecting cattle, I should say there is no species of labour to be put in competition with it.

From what I have seen of cattle-hunting, I must confess there is more fuss and noise made than are necessary; and there can be very little doubt but the practice tends to make the cattle much wilder than they otherwise would be. As soon as a drove is brought up, two or three quiet working bullocks lead them into the yard. The calves are then caught with a rope, slightly slung on a pole kept for the purpose, and both sexes are branded (generally about four inches and a half long, and five-eighths of an inch broad) with the letter or mark of the nronrietor.

Great caution is necessary in branding: if the iron be heated too hot, and too much burnt, it creates a wound which will entirely destroy the mark: some people notch the ears as well, but this is perfectly unnecessary. Cattle are never stolen in the wholesale way that sheep are; and the loss of a fat steer, now and then, is scarcely matter of remark.

The expence of attending a herd of cattle is very trifling; two or three stock-keepers will look after six or eight hundred; their rations are generally sent them two or three times a year. The chief occupation of these men is smoking Brazil tobacco, and kangaroo hunting; being well assured they are at too great a distance for any master's notice, they are, therefore, not scrupious to gratify themselves in any way they please. The cattle, of course, are neglected; but as this practice has always obtained, so it will continue. I have seen a small rivulet near to the mountains, which, from its appearance, had been running for years; the stream had worn away the spungy surface, and had thereby rendered the banks very abrupt and deep: in this place I have seen innumerable skeletons, and many poor animals in the agonies of death, mid-deep in water; and, I dare assert, not one of these idle vagabonds would take the trouble to fetch a team of bullocks to help them out.

So defective is the system of breeding and rearing cattle in Tasmania, that the proprietors themselves are almost indifferent about them. When they ascertain, from the stock-keepers, that there is plenty of steers fit to kill, they send in their tender to the commissariat stores; at the time appointed, the cattle is delivered at the government slaughter-house, and, after being examined by a person appointed by the government, for the purpose of ascertaining the marks, and as a guard against robbery, they are killed; the hide, loose tat and offal, are taken by the tenderer.

Steers are frequently killed at eighteen months' old, and mostly at two years; they weigh, upon an average, about eighty stone, London weight. Although the commissariat consumes annually about six or seven hundred thousand pounds weight of fresh meat, besides twenty-five tons salted for the penal settlements; yet this, together with the enormous consumption throughout the island, is not missed; and, I am inclined to think, if the consumption were ten times as great, it would not keep pace with the increase. The tenders, previous to my leaving the island, were received at 3d. per 1b.; nothing but wholesome good meat is received, and if the cattle turn out to be too lean when brought down, they are rejected.

The best proof I can otter, as to the generality or Deei being brought to market very thin and lean, is the following: in the latter part of the year 1827, two very respectable men opened a butcher's shop, equal, in point of neatness, to any I ever saw; they gave a good price for fat meat, and several individuals brought them a good ox or two. I remember seeing a bullock killed by these persons, which was bred and fed by Mr. Nicholls of the Clyde: it weighed upwards of one hundred and seventy stone, and was sold in a few hours at 1s. per 1b. I have heard of several instances of this kind: whenever a fat bullock is about to be slaughtered, people are anxiously bespeaking a part.

This, however, will not last long; many are preparing artificial food, and others have begun. I am only surprised that those who have had every opportunity of feeding off their working bullocks by artificial means, have not done so, instead of allowing them to work until they are unable to move, and then sent adrift in the bush to become a prey to eagles and crows. This is a system that cannot be too strongly reprobated; and if not worth the attention of individuals who are the owners of thousands, it should be a warning to those who are about to settle. I do not know anything that is so well worth the attention of the settler, as stall-feeding: many of the inhabitants on the north side have abundant accommodation; they cut plenty of good hay every year, always more than they can sell; their hovels and buildings, too, might be easily converted into good stalls, and I am at a loss to know why the practice has not been adopted, unless it be from ignorance. I am confident of the success of such an undertaking, and of the ready sale that might be commanded for any quantity of good-fed beef.

The working bullocks of Tasmania deserve the particular care and attention of those who own them: I do not think it possible to find a more useful animal in the world; they are excessively strong and active, and enjoy a constitution equal to the hardships they undergo. They are generally broke into yoke at two years' old, and, after a little time, are soon taught to draw; they only require to be treated quietly, a virtue, generally speaking, almost unknown in the island. There are, no doubt, young bullocks that require a great deal of management, but from the treatment they receive at the hands of the savage brutes who drive them, I do not wonder at their tempers being tried. I have witnessed, with pleasure, the teams of various individuals who have been fortunate enough to have a steady quiet man or two about them; and really, I have been inclined to conclude, that they are nearly equal to horses; in the present state of the country I am sure they are; as few people would like to send out a team of six horses (worth upon an average £65 each) with a load of wheat, and leave them to the care of servants: besides, they require no sort of extra feed: when they have finished their day's work, they are turned into the bush. The very best of these bullocks are not worth more than £20 the pair. All that is necessary to equip them for work, are two iron bows, a wooden yoke, and a common bullock chain; they are very seldom lame, or at all unfit for work; in rainy weather their necks become chafed, but a little fresh lard will prevent a wound.

In the towns, the bullocks are frequently put to draw light carts; the same harness is then used as for the ehaft-horse in England. In the choice of working bullocks, I would never advise the purchase of young ones at the onset; it is not at all necessary to search the herds of those who have been at any expence in improvement. The north side of the island is by far the best, as to choice in these animals. I have seen working bullocks as large as any I ever saw in my life; but I do not think these are the best for any purpose of agricultural labour, except for timber carriage. I should choose for my own purpose, in preference, the short-legged ones; they are generally smaller but more compact, and with better frames. I think the black kind are the best, although I have seen good of all colours: the largest breeders in the island are not the best. Many individuals have imported some very good animals of both sexes: the gentlemen composing the Van Diemen's Land Agricultural Establishment, deserve the thanks of the colonists at large for having imported more better-bred beasts than any other individuals. Nineteen Herefords and Durhams were put on board at Blackwall, at an immense expence, half of which died; amongst the number was a very superior short-horned bull: this animal was a severe loss to the island. Captain Wood, of the Clyde, also imported at different times some of the very best Fifeshire cows I ever saw, and a bull or two. This gentleman has sold several of his young bulls at £20 and £25 each. This breed of animals appear to be most excellent milkers, and easily fatted; if so, they will unite two qualities which are in the highest degree essential in Tasmania. Messrs. Bryants of Jericho, are in possession of the best-bred Devons, of their own importing; their bull is allowed to serve cows at two guineas each.

I have seen the produce of colonial cows put to this bull, and they bid fair to be excellent; all of them partook of the colour of the Devon. R. Willis, Esq., of Wanstead Park, has a few very good short-horns, and the only pure shorthorn bull in the island. Captain Langdon brought out some very high-bred Devons. Mr. J. Archer has a fine herd of beasts, bred, I rather think, from the stock of Mr. Marsden, of Sydney; they bear a strong resemblance to the English-polled Suffolks. Mr. Cox, Mr. Lord, and the Van Diemen's Land Company, have also imported neat stock.

CHAPTER XVI.

SYSTEM OF THE DAIRY EXPLAINED; ADVANTAGES ARISING FROM A GOOD DAIRY WELL CONDUCTED; WEANING CALVES RECOMMENDED, &c.

THE dairy should be amongst one of the first considerations of the settler, and especially if he purchases or rents a farm near to Hobart Town. This subject has been so frequently agitated by individuals, who have written from ignorance, or a want of knowledge of the country, that they suppose nothing more is necessary, than to buy a lot of cows, drive them home, and milk them. This, however, is a mistaken notion; and the settler who begins to establish a dairy, has many difficulties in the onset to combat with. No climate in the world can be better suited for the purposes of making butter and cheese than Tasmania, nor is there a country blessed with a greater proportion of natural feed; yet the pastures do not contain sufficient succulent matter, to enable the cows to give anything like a fair quantity of milk. Nevertheless, if the native grasses of the country were properly cultivated, I do not see why they should not contain as much nutriment as the imported English grasses.

I cannot advise a new settler to begin the dairy system without first preparing him for obstacles it will be necessary to surmount. An individual coming from a country where he has been accustomed to see cows quiet and tractable, might be disposed to think he could soon make the colonial cows equally docile; but the wild manner in which a great part of the cattle are bred, and the peculiar system pursued, would almost frighten him out of his senses. To enable an opinion to be formed of the general management of the cows and the dairy, let the following accurate description suffice.

The greater portion of settlers have a small herd of what they term quiet cows, near home: a man, who is both stockkeeper and milker, follows them (or should do) into the bush. As the cows calve, this man brings them home, that is, if he happens to see them; if not, but little is said about it. The calf is shut up, or else tethered to the stump of a gum tree with a long piece of leather, which, every now and then, is gnawed in twain: I have frequently seen two or three calves running about with this tether dangling after them. The cows are milked in the morning only. Mr. Stock-keeper generally begins his day about half-past six: his first act (by no means a prompt one) is to light his pipe; he then sets oft' in quest of his cows, which, nine times out of ten, are not all to be found; when brought home they are put into a good five-railed yard, which, in the winter season, is generally knee-deep in mud. It is no uncommon circumstance to see neither hovel nor shed near this spot, and nothing but a small dirty pen to put the calves in during the night.

The first thing in request is the cattle-pole and rope, which being ready, an attempt is made to catch one of them; after a good deal of running, and a tolerable share of oaths and blows are administered, they succeed in getting the rope over her head; the poor animal is then hauled up to a post with a string affixed to her leg to prevent kicking; in this position she stands, frightened to death. The calf is then let out; for unless it were allowed to suck, the chances are that not a drop of milk would be got. After all this tortuous practice, perhaps not more than four or five pints are obtained, which is about the average yield of the generality of cows.

The dairy is perfectly in unison with the rest; indeed, I have known many individuals, owners of herds, who have not tasted milk in their tea for months. There is no necessity why such a careless bad system should be pursued. The cows, it is true, are naturally wild; but why not endeavour to make them quiet? Many individuals might have made immense fortunes years ago, if they had established dairies upon a proper principle. Since the year 1820, I know of individuals who have made nearly £500 a-year by their butter, exclusive of the skim milk, which assisted in feeding the servants and weaning twenty or thirty calves. This was managing things properly; the cows, too, were never suffered to be ill-used, the owners themselves being amongst them. In summer, a piece of tares was grown for the calves, and in winter, they had bran and chaff. It was really a treat to see the cattle under such excellent management; indeed there can be no doubt, from such a system, they might always be made docile and tractable.

I should advise the new settler to begin with caution: he may as well throw his money away as to buy ten or twenty wild heifers to begin with; they are naturally bad milkers, and the system generally pursued makes them worse: the calf frequently runs with the heifer until another makes its appearance; and I have actually heard of instances where the calf has been seen sucking a young heifer at the same time the heifer was sucking her own mother; this clearly proves how little, in Tasmania, men look after their own interest.

Your first step should be to enclose a good paddock; at the same time do not neglect looking out for a quiet cow or two: if your finances will allow, buy a score, and either hire or purchase a good imported bull, or one bred from those imported. There are a few individuals who pay particular attention in separating their calves, not allowing them to go near the bull until they are a year and a half old. Mr. Cox of Clarendon, is by far the best manager of cattle in Tasmania; he has improved them very much, and, as a remuneration for his trouble, always has a customer ready for heifers or working bullocks, not only because they are better, but tamer. These sort of heifers, heavy in calf, may be bought at £6 each, and good young steers at £4 each. I would always give £1 more per head for those that had been baled up, or that were sufficiently tractable to allow of their being approached. As a proof of the value of a tame good milker, I have known the civil officers in town, pay readily £25 each for cows that would stand to be milked in the fields or elsewhere. Butter makes upon an average, summer and winter, 3s. per pound, wholesale; salt butter, 2s.; milk, 6d. per quart. Colonial cheese not to be had in any quantity. A few individuals have made skim-milk cheese, for which they have readily got Is. per pound. Fine old cheese, imported from England, fetches 3s. 6d. per pound; Sydney cheese, made by Rankin, 2s.

All new countries, that are situated at so great a distance from the place whence they receive their imports, must be subject, more or less, to certain disadvantages arising from the extravagant price generally demanded for such things as are necessary in a family; to obviate this, I consider every emigrant, who wishes himself well, should endeavour to grow or manufacture that commodity which commands the most ready sale, and yields the best profit.

I hope I have stated enough to demonstrate that a dairy, properly conducted, will produce an article that will always be saleable. If the man who makes butter in England, and sells it at Is. per pound, is enabled to pay poor rates, taxes, and rent, and still gets a profit, what decided advantages must he enjoy who has no such burthens upon his land? It is true, the cow at home will give a greater quantity of milk, but the situation of the two men, in respect of making money, bears no comparison. Cheese may be made at any distance from town, and if good, could be sold very readily at all times.

The construction of the dairy does not require so much consideration in Van Diemen's Land as in New South Wales; if it can be built in a shady place it will be preferable; a few spreading wattles planted round it, would soon become large enough to keep it pleasant and cool. The windows should be put on each side, to admit of a thorough draught of air, and shutters well fitted to guard against the dust in windy weather; but all I have said as to what is essential, will be of but little avail, if you are unprovided with heaven's choicest gift—a wife, or a confidential housekeeper, to superintend a department requiring so much care and attention. The want of proper persons to manage the internal affairs of an establishment of this kind, is severely felt; a steady man and his wife, who could produce testimonials as to their knowledge in these matters, might easily obtain a situation at a very handsome salary.

The greater portion of emigrants already settled on the island, are either tradesmen or persons connected with trade, military and naval officers; few of the latter, however, I presume ever had an opportunity of collecting much agricultural knowledge, a circumstance which may in some degree account for the long neglect of the dairy. As I before said, I never heard of but one gentleman who weaned his calves; I am aware of the advantages he derived from the practice, and I feel confident that any person who understands the management of them, might soon lay the foundation of his future prosperity. From the very limited number of calves brought up by hand in the colony, I know not whether they are subject to the same complaints as in England; if I may judge from the climate, I should certainly think not. Calves intended to be reared, should be separated from the cow at two or three days'old, and taught to take the milk out of the pail; this may be done by allowing them to suck the finger in the milk. It is better to give them new milk at first for a few days, and then skim-milk warmed. A few oats and beans, a little sweet hay, or any other green food may be given them when they are able to eat and follow the herd. Be cautious how you give large quantities of green food; it is very likely to bring on severe purging; and if the calves are not kept warm and properly attended to, diarrhoea or dysentery may follow, the cure of which will be attended with more trouble than the animal is worth. They shojld also be allowed, in winter, to come in during the night: as there is no frost or snow, or any weather to prevent them running out in the day, let them follow your herd about home. Clater and White have both laid down a series of recipes adapted to the different diseases of cows and calves; with the assistance of these useful works, and the medicine chest I have recommended to be taken out, you will have little to fear in sueceeding beyond your wishes. There cannot be a more delightful climate for breeding or rearing animals; aided, too, by a constant succession of fine weather during hay and harvest, you will not be subject to the losses which frequently arise in England from opposite causes. Calves are rarely fed for the butcher; I never saw veal in Tasmania during my residence in the island, although I believe a calf is now and then caught up and sold, the quality and colour of which, I should think, are not much regarded.

Pigs are a source of profit which should by no means be forgotten; there are various kinds in the island, and some are as good as any I ever saw. Mr. Gordon is the only person who breeds them.

CHAPTER XVII.

GARDENING.

THE garden is justly esteemed one of the most essential requisites about a house, and has consequently received much attention in Tasmania. There are many settlers of whom you may get vegetables and fruit of every description, in the greatest luxuriance; others, again, with an apathy too prevalent, and which cannot be sufficiently reprobated, estimate a garden of such little value, as not to bestow upon it the least attention. The rearing of a few bad potatoes is by many considered quite sufficient for all their wants and wishes. The system of gardening, however, has of late become an object of serious regard with some.

The following hints, derived from information I have gleaned, as well as from my own experience, will, I trust, be found acceptable to new settlers. The seasons in Van Diemen's Land may be divided as follows: the spring commences in September; the summer in December; the autumnal months are March, April, and May; whilst winter holds his reign in the months of June, July, and August. The seasons, therefore, it will be seen are the inverse of those of England.

As vegetables are, or ought to be, held in consideration by a family, before fruit or flowers, I will proceed to offer a few directions on this point. In reference to the kitchen garden, amongst the first of all roots in the vegetable world, the potato may be said to take the lead; this is cultivated in Tasmania with the most complete success. The garden crop should be put in about the middle or beginning of September; but should be protected by moulding, from the frost, in case the winter should not have well broken up. A field crop may be planted any time in October or November, but early sowings are generally found the best. Care should be taken that large perfect sets be selected for early planting. A garden winter crop may be put in from December to the end of February. The sets made choice of should be the produce of the last winter crop; potatoes uncut may be preferred for the seed, as those that are cut are apt to perish in the ground from wet weather. New potatoes are to be had by the first of December.

Turnips grow to an extraordinary size, when the ground has been properly dressed for them; a winter crop is most available. The ground being prepared, sow the seed in January, provided it is pretty wet, if not, wait until rain comes. Crops for the table may be put in about the middle of July.

Swedish turnips resist the frost in this colony, and become enormously large; they are more nourishing for cattle than the other sort, containing much saccharine matter, and therefore nearly as good as the carrot, and are cultivated cheaper, requiring a shallower and poorer soil, and less manure. The tops grow from five to six feet high, and are excellent for cattle; they will also bear cutting for a second crop. They may be sown for a general crop from February to May; they will pay well if they are transplanted, but may be sown broadcast. If sown in August, they will not go to seed until the Christmas following. The time for sowing seed to get plants for transplanting, must depend upon the situation and soil; the ground for seed should be made very fine, and manured with wood-ashes or good compost mixed with earth: dung breeds the fly. The seed should be sown in drills one inch deep; when deposited evenly, but not thickly, the ground should be rolled across the drills. When the seed comes up, and as soon as you think them clear of the fly, thin the plants to two inches apart. Hoe frequently between the rows, even before thinning; this has a tendency to make them strong; in fact, the plants cannot be kept too clean.

Cauliflowers and brocoli will do well twice a year, but are mostly planted in the months of August and September, and are brought to perfection without the use of glasses. The bed should be prepared in a well sheltered place, lying well to the sun, with good access of air, in rich ground. Select the stoutest plants; bury also good horse-dung at the roots, digging the ground a spade deep. In transplanting, put them thirty inches apart; between, may be grown a crop of spinach or radishes. When the cauliflower head is forming, tie the outer leaves over them to prevent the sun drying them up.

Carrots and parsnips are sown best in brush or made lands, and should be put in early in July. The beds should be somewhat higher than in England: before carrots are transplanted for seed, they should, when gathered, be spread in a loft for a fortnight or so. These vegetables ought to be thinned in the seed leaf.

Cabbages may be planted at almost any season; but a summer crop for seed should be sown late in June, so as to be transplanted early in September. Some well rolled manure ought to be put into the drills, and covered over lightly with mould, when the plants may be dibbled in. Tilling may be performed as occasion requires; for a winter crop, sow late in January, and transplant early in March.

Onions, shallots and leeks, grow luxuriantly in a place where sheep have been folded, but are to be raised in any ground that has been well worked and manured: they should be put in late in April, as they will then be able to bear the frosts. The potato-onion is the most productive, and requires planting about the end of May. During December, look to your seed on a fine day. When the onion is in head, water the roots, which will prevent blight, and consequently save the seed.

Pease and beans should not be planted earlier than July: the ground should be strong, and a little manure added; a later crop may be grown, but is likely to be destroyed in the blossom by an insect. Beans should be set in one-row drills, or they may be injured by the weeds; when seen to turn somewhat blue, they must be watered; when they begin to grow, let them ripen without water. The same must be done to pease.

Lettuces, having stood the winter, should be put out in August or September, and planted in rich ground, giving them a little water at first.

Radishes may be sown in almost every month of the year.

Celery should be sown so as to be large enough to transplant in January; and should be in trenches, and well supplied with water.

Cucumbers, pumpkins, and melons, can be raised under glass in the spring, and in the open air during summer, either by hot beds, or by the assistance of dung, in the open grounds. Make the beds for forward crops in August. The plants must be raised on a seed bed, and then transplanted into hot beds of about three feet high, and secured from frosts by a covering at night. When the fruit does not set well, the runners should be topped.

Artichokes grow very large; they are raised by sets or cuttings of the root, preparing the sets the same as potatoes; let them be planted in rows about two yards asunder, and four or five inches deep.

Horse-radish is propagated by cuttings of the root; choose as light and deep a soil as the garden affords, which trench regularly at least one spade deep, letting the roots be about a foot asunder.

Having now, I believe, mentioned most vegetables that are in common use, and which a very slight trouble will procure, I should recommend every one to purchase a quantity of the best kinds of seed previous to leaving England. To the small settler residing near HobartTown, the garden is, or ought to be, an object of the greatest attention. The sale for vegetables to the shipping and the town is regular, and the business is all done for ready money, at an immense profit. Those who for some years to come, shall furnish the markets regularly with vegetables, fruit, milk, butter and eggs, may count upon excellent profits. A garden should not be formed upon too steep ground, but in a spot where the water will lie a considerable time, so as to afford nourishment to the plants. It is customary among the most wealthy settlers to keep a man constantly in the garden. A small house either in, or contiguous to the place, is erected for his residence, thereby affording security against robbery. In that branch of horticulture which comprises the fruit garden and orchard, there is abundant employment for those who are fond of planting and propagating, which, if attended to properly, cannot fail to yield amusement and healthful enjoyment. The vine has been cultivated in Tasmania with great success, and wine of a very superior quality has been made from the grape. The apple and peach, where they have been attended to, grow plentifully throughout the island: I have seen fruit of moderate size grow on grafts that really were not fit to unbandage. The different kinds of apple common in England have been introduced into the island. The cherry appears well adapted for the climate, and thrives well.

The raspberry and strawberry grow more abundantly than in any place I ever saw; they appear to yield more fruit than they do in England, especially the former.

Currants and gooseberries are grown by almost every body who has a garden.

Pears, plums, and damscenes, have not yet made much progress.

Nevertheless, every tree that England can produce, may be grown in the colony; and many species that cannot stand the winter in England, will flourish in the open air in Tasmania. The myrtle and geranium are constantly green, and wear a beautiful appearance throughout the winter.

CHAPTER XVIII.

NATURAL PRODUCTIONS.

HAVING not the smallest pretension to scientific knowledge, or the ability to describe the natural productions of an island so extensive, I shall merely give the names of those things as they are generally met with, and their uses to mankind.

The stringy bark is perhaps one of the most useful trees in the island; it is found in low swampy places, and grows from forty to seventy feet high; it is a hard straight-grained wood, and principally used in building, fencing, &c. &c. The bark, which serves as a covering for splitters and sawyers, is easily separated from the wood in immense large stripes.

The blue gum is found in greater abundance than the former; it is a close-grained heavy wood, and grows to an immense size. The lesser trees of this kind have been frequently used as masts for small vessels, and are found to answer well: the greater number of colonial boats are built of blue gum; the oars are made of the same wood, but they appear to retain their natural moisture for years, as they sink instantly when dropped into the water. This tree is also used for building purposes, but requires to be particularly well seasoned; when dry, it is extremely tough and durable.

The peppermint, so called from the leaves imparting to the taste that flavor, grows every where throughout the island. This tree is of very little use, except for shingles in the forests; it may be sometimes seen rearing its lofty head conspicuously above the rest, to a surprising height.

The black and silver wattle, (the mimosa) are trees used in house-work and furniture, but, from their diminutive size, are not much sought after. The bark of the former has been exported to England in large quantities, both in its raw state, and when boiled to form an extract; the latter process, I am inclined to think, did not succeed, as many who manufactured it have now entirely given it up. The mimosa bears immense bunches of yellow flowers; in the spring, they have a most beautiful appearance, and would form a delightful contrast to our English cliesnut.

The ground saplings grow in clumps, resembling our ash poles in form, and may be easily converted to the same uses.

Huon pine is by far the most beautiful wood found in the island; it is very much superior, both in colour and substance, to the Norway deal, and is scarce and difficult to be had.

Adventure Bay pine is found at the extremity of a deep bay of that name; it is a species of pine adapted for house-work and furniture, but is not common.

The light wood found by the sides of creeks and swamps, grows larger in the top than any other tree of the same size; the wood is extremely hard and light. Mill-wheel shafts and cogs are made from this wood, and found to answer better than any other kind.

The cherry tree is a small diminutive plant found on rocky hills and poor land; it is more used for the fire than any thing else. Gun stocks are made from it, but they do not last long.

Honeysuckle is found in various parts: the cherry, the oak, and honeysuckle, are companions. They are of very little use but for the fire; small articles of fancy-work are sometimes made from them, but they are of little importance.

The trees and forests of Tasmania (with but one exception, the mimosa,) rather diminish than add to the beauty of the country, where they are thinly spread; the tops grow extremely ugly, and bear not the slightest resemblance to the worst of our oak and elm. Two or three of the larger kinds of trees shed their outward bark instead of the leaves, and slips, forty or fifty feet long, are seen hanging down from the top to the bottom, presenting a most unsightly appearance.

The mimosa is by far the most beautiful, and indeed the only tree to which nature seems to have given the appearance of ornament. I do not know any thing that appears more frequently overlooked than the proper selection of trees for the estates in the island. Few persons have allowed any to remain, even around the house, to shelter them from the burning sun; and no one will deny that a proper portion of timber, to say nothing of profit, confers a very pleasing ornament. Mimosas may be sown at any season, and will grow freely; they add very much to the beauty of a farm, and in a few years will cut a sufficient quantity of stuff to make hurdles, gates, &c.

The shrubs of Tasmania are very numerous, and some of them beautiful; a few have been transplanted from the forests and scrubs, to the pleasure grounds of the wealthy. Many, I have no doubt, contain certain valuable properties, but either from want of inclination, or an ignorance of science, few, if any experiments have been made.

The tea tree grows in wet situations, and in clusters, along the banks of rivers and mountain streams. The leaves infused make a pleasant beverage, and with a little sugar forms a most excellent substitute for tea. The natives select their spears from among the straightest and longest sticks of the tea tree.

Of fruits there are none indigenous to the island worth noticing. The native cherry, currant, cranberry, or any other, are as ungrateful as the crab of England.

The musk-plant, the cotton-plant, the native myrtle, the burnan, and others, are the common shrubs of the country. The currogong is sometimes found; its inner bark may be manufactured into ropes.

The native grasses of this island very far exceed those of any other country I ever heard of; and if properly cultivated, would unquestionably be most productive. The principal are the kangaroo and the oat grass: a variety of others, such as the timothy and ray grass, wild vetch, and a few rib grasses, afford winter and summer feed for the many thousands of cattle and sheep bred in the island. The kangaroo grass is found on rich flat lands, and produces more feed than all the rest put together; it runs to an immense height, and if not eaten down, grows very coarse in the stalk, and becomes hollow like the stalks of wheat. The wild oat, and a small mixture of kangaroo grass make very excellent hay. I have seen horses eat it, in preference to English grass hay grown in the island, and both equally well got up.

I have seen the native herbage very much improved by being properly grazed and eaten down bare. A top dressing of mould and manure mixed, and a few seeds of any of our English grasses, would soon make the native kinds spread and flourish. There are few spots of land (at all available) so barren and ungrateful that would not repay a little trouble in this species of culture.

The minerals found in Van Diemen's Land, have not as yet been very extensive. Copper, iron, alum, and slate, have all been found, but not worked by any one. Limestone, the most useful of all minerals, has been found very scarce at present. Good free-stone is obtained, and worked on the south side of the island, but the north is not so well supplied with any kind of stone as the former. Coal abounds throughout the country; several beds of which have been discovered, but until wood becomes scarce and dear in town, it is not probable that any mines will be opened. A very extensive vein of coal is supposed to exist within a mile of HobartTown, on the estate of Mr. Emmit.

The animals peculiar to Van Diemen's Land, are almost all of the kangaroo species; viz., the young are found in a pouch that appears to have no connexion with the stomach. Beasts of a ferocious nature are entirely unknown, none having as yet been discovered that will not immediately make off at the sight of man.

There are three or four varieties of kangaroos: those most common, and which furnish sport in the chase, are denominated the forestor and brush kangaroos. They have been long ago exhibited in England.

The forestor grows to an immense size, and has been known to weigh twelve stone. Kangaroos frequently herd together like bucks; they are remarkably swift, and bound from fifteen to twenty feet at first starting.

The brush kangaroo is much smaller, and frequents the scrubs and rocky hills; the females of both kinds are said to produce but one at a birth, although, I am inclined to think, they sometimes produce two.*

The wallabee is not very common, although found in abundance near the mountains; they inhabit low swampy flats, where the scrub is very thick; they seldom weigh more than from twenty-five to thirty pounds, and are much superior in flavor to any other, although all the species are extremely nutritious and good, and are generally thought very delicious by those who arrive out as strangers. A kangaroo steamer and a piece of damper will afford an excellent repast.

The kangaroo is generally cut up small, and with a little pork or bacon as a substitute for fat, and a few herbs added, makes an excellent repast. The damper is a colonial name for bread baked on the earth, and covered over with ashes, the general method used by prisoners and others, throughout the island.

There are two kinds of oppossums; the large or grey, and the ringtailed. They are both very harmless, and in shape not unlike the pole-cat; they live in the hollow arms of trees, and feed upon the leaves of the peppermint, and young grass. The skins of these animals are very beautiful, and might be rendered an article of useful and profitable export. Oppossums are frequently shot as food for dogs, when the moon shines very bright. The aborigines consider them a great luxury.

The kangaroo-rat is a small inoffensive animal, and perfectly distinct from the ordinary species of rat: indeed, it may be called the kangaroo in miniature; it is about the size of a wild rabbit, and bounds exactly like the kangaroo. The flesh is not fit to eat.

The bandicoot is as large as a guinea-pig, and not unlike it in shape; there are two kinds, the rat and the rabbit-bandicoot; they both burrow in the earth, and live upon roots and plants; the flesh of the latter is white and delicious.

The oppossum mouse is about the size of our largest barn mice; it is a fac simile of the oppossum; when caught it soon becomes very tame like the rest of the animals in the island. Manna is the food they exist upon; they are exceedingly pretty, and their skins impart the most agreeable aromatic scent.

The native porcupine is not very common, nor so large as the one found in America; it appears to me to be a species of animal between the porcupine and hedge-hog; it is quite harmless.

The only animals that can be termed carnivorous are the small hyena, the devil, and the native cat. The hyena, or as it is sometimes called, the tiger, is about the size of a large terrier; it frequents the wilds of Tasmania, and is scarcely heard of in the located districts. Where sheep run in large flocks near the mountains, these animals destroy a great many lambs. The female produces five or six at a birth; the skin resembles the striped hyena.

The devil, or as naturalists term it "dasyurus ursinus," is very properly named, if it is meant as a designation for the most forbidding and ugly of the animal creation. It is as great a destroyer of young lambs as the hyena; and, generally speaking, is as large as a middling-sized dog. The head resembles that of an otter in shape, but is out of proportion with the rest of its body; the mouth is furnished with three rows of double teeth; the legs are short, with the feet similar to the cat, being covered with a tough skin free from hair. The skin resembles the sable in colour; the tail is short and thick: it is generally found in the clefts of rocks contiguous to the mountains, or on stony hills. The head appears to be full of scales, as though the animal was diseased; they are very slow on their legs, are taken in small pit-falls, and killed by dogs.

The native cat resembles our pole-cat or weazel. as to its mode of living; it is between the size of the two, and infests the hen-roosts, and is a great destroyer of all kinds of poultry; they are found in hollow trees and under dead timber. Their skins are either grey or black spotted.

The feathered tribes of Van Diemen's Land are numerous. The sea and other water-fowl, consist of gulls of various kinds;—boobies, noddies, shags, gornets, cormorants, pelicans, black swans (very abundant), the musk-duck, and all kinds of the duck tribe. The land birds, generally speaking, are all of them curious and beautiful.

The numbers of various kinds of parrots and parroquets, clothed in the most beautiful plumage, are almost beyond description. The cockatoos are as great destroyers of corn during the seed time and harvest, as crows are in England.

Tasmania may be said to be entirely without singing birds, although the parroquets sing admirably when taught, and rendered tame. The tribes of small birds are various, but very unlike any birds I ever saw in England. The crows are similar to those of Europe, with the exception of white eyes. There are two kinds of magpies; the one completely black, the other like ours, but differently marked; yet neither is so mischievous or destructive.

The birds of prey are, the eagle, and the different kinds of hawks, which are much about the same as in England. Many of the large kind of hawks, perfectly white, have been seen, and shot.

The pigeons are by far the most beautiful birds in the island; they are called bronze-winged pigeons; they are more like the partridge than our pigeon, and much more delicious to eat. Their plumage is not unlike the partridge, only that the wings are beautifully variegated with gold-coloured feathers; they are wild, though easily shot off the stubble, where they feed in large quantities. There are smaller kinds of the pigeon, and a beautiful species of the dove, whose cooing is a most melancholy tone.

The birds that may be termed game, are very numerous, with the exception of the emu, or native ostrich; they very much resemble the latter bird, and are nearly as large; they leave the mountains to feed in the plains, and are sometimes caught by the kangaroo dogs: they are excessively swift, and, like the ostrich, have no power to raise themselves from the earth.

The quail, of which there are three kinds, are far more numerous in many parts of the island, than the partridge is in England; they are much larger than the quail of any other country, I ever saw, and afford to the sportsman capital shooting. Pointers taken from England, stand at them exactly as they would at the game of their native country; spaniels are frequently used where the grass is very long, but a man fond of shooting will find excellent sport with either description of dog.

Snipes are found in great abundance from September to March, in the lakes and wet valleys, they are precisely like the snipe of England, but not near so wild.

Wild ducks and widgeons are also found in all the principal fresh-water rivers; these birds are very fine flavoured, and afford most excellent diversion to the shooter.

The bittern is rare, and not frequently met with.

The plovers are not numerous: there are two kinds, the golden and silver plover; both are reckoned a great delicacy.

The baldcoot, and a large bird, called the native hen, and the hern, frequent the lakes and lagunes; they are of very little worth, and not much sought after.

The coast and harbours abound with various kinds of fish, few or any of which are known in Europe. The market at Hobart Town is principally supplied from the Derwent, with small rock cod, flat-heads, and a fish called the perch, and various other, none of which, however, are of fine flavour. Sharks and porpoises are common in the river, within a mile or two of the town; and several large black whales have been killed in the harbour; the bays around the coast are crowded with them, yet few of the sperm whale have been seen.

Of the several kinds of reptiles, none are so common as the snake; they vary in size from one to six feet long. At the sight of man they generally make their escape into holes in the ground, or beneath old trees that have been long felled; few accidents have ever happened from them, nor do I consider them dangerous. They lie dormant in the winter, and never show themselves until the sun becomes powerful in the spring.

Centipedes, scorpions, and a small kind of lizard, are to be seen, but not very commonly.

The insects are not so numerous or so annoying as in most other countries. The atit, the mosquito, and a common green fly, are the only ones generally seen. The mosquito does not sting so severely as in hotter climates.

* Mr. Abernethy, in one of his Physiological Lectures, thus introduces a notice of these extraordinary quadrupeds. "It is one of the characteristics of living beings (says the lecturer) that they multiply their species, which they sometimes effect in consequence of subdivisions of their bodies, or by the production of shoots, that afterwards become detached. Both these modes are evident in vegetables and polypes. In general, however, the multiplication of the species is affected by the production of seeds and eggs, containing nutriment for the germ of the future vegetable or animal, which, thus supported, grows till it acquires power of deriving nourishment from other sources. Those animals, which multiply their species in this manner, are said to be oviparous. Sometimes the ova seems to be hatched within the body of the parent, and under such circumstances, the animals are said to be ovoviviparous. This mode of multiplication is frequent in the lower kinds of animals, but it is met with also in the class mammalia, amongst the oppossum tribe. From observing the peculiarities of structure in the sexual organs of the animals last mentioned, Mr. Hunter was convinced that they did not produce their young like other quadrupeds; yet he was unable to get the American oppossum to breed in this country. The facts have been ascertained, since our more free communication with New Holland. That large animal, the kangaroo, produces a young one, not exceeding twenty grains in weight; which is received into the abdominal pouch of its parent, and being there protected from c!old and injury, clings to the nipple of its mother, and takes sustenance according to its wants. It is curious to observe the difference of form between the parent and its young offspring. The mother has monstrous hind legs, by which she springs to a surprising distance, whilst her fore paws are very diminutive, serving merely to feed, and to scratch with. On the contrary, the young kangaroo has monstrous fore paws, with which it clings to the nipple of its mother, and scarcely any hind legs; so that its form, at its birth, is suited to its present exigencies, and not to its future modes of life. By degrees, the young kangaroo fills and distends the abdominal pouch, and peeps abroad through its aperture, which gives the first intimation to others, that its parent has become a mother."— p. 295.

CHAPTER XIX.

THE BREED AND MANAGEMENT OF HORSES; HORSE-RACING IN TASMANIA.

THE horses of Van Diemen's Land, which are as good in nature as any in the world, took their origin from India. Until late years little had been done towards improvement. The original breed are called (by the owners) Arabs; but as far as I can judge, they do not in the least resemble them in appearance; their legs being much stronger, and the foot more expanded; however, it is certain they are of oriental blood.

Mr. E. Lord, and one or two others, have a breed of ponies derived from the Acheen breed; although very small, they are extremely good, and will perform a great deal of work. There is no breed of cart horses as yet in the island, although there are several stallions of different cart breeds, but no mares; and until some judicious arrangements are made, and land be in a better state of cultivation, I am confident bullocks will be found much superior to horses; the difference of price alone, at the onset, will necessarily oblige many a settler to dispense with horse labour. The greater part of the horses in Tasmania are of the nag kind; the mares, generally speaking, are small, few being above fifteen hands high; they are very hardy, and capable of performing long journeys. Their shape is susceptible of improvement; and as they are crossed with the different thorough-bred horses from England, I have very little doubt but the island will eventually be celebrated for possessing one of the best breed of horses in the world. Their blood is good enough, and they only want length and breadth in their frames.— Brood mares vary in price from £40 to £100; but good useful mares can be bought at £65 each.

The largest breeders in the island are the Messrs. Archers, Cox, Staines and Troy, Gordon, Lords, and some others, besides the different mobs that run wild in the bush with the chance of only catching one now and then. A good gelding will command a purchaser always, they increase in price according to their qualities. The military, civil officers, and other gentlemen in Hobart Town, generally purchase the best, as they are offered, which produce from £80 to 100; small cobs, fourteen hands, make from £35 to £40. The Van Diemen's Land Agricultural Establishment have imported more good horses and mares than any individuals in the island, or indeed more than has ever been imported altogether. There were three thorough-bred horses in the island in 1827; since which period others have been sent out. Mr. Bryant imported a very useful half-bred horse; the mares put to him were charged £10 each; and even at that high price he had a sufficient number of mares; the thoroughbred horses cover at the same price.

The treatment of the horse in Van Diemen's Land, is inferior to that adopted in any other country; many never know the taste of corn; and the most wealthy owners do not provide for them as in England. Their feed, while in the stable, is barley or wheat in the sheaf, few, except the largest agriculturists, growing oats or artificial grasses. The old system of tethering them out, after a journey, is still pursued by numbers. A sheaf of wheat is considered by cattle-hunters much superior to any kind of corn.

The racing club was established in 1826. It comprises about fifty of the most respectable free settlers in the island. They hold their annual races in April, which last two days. A very handsome silver cup, besides stakes and sweepstakes, is run for. The same rules, laws, and regulations, are adopted, as in England. The old breed of horses first imported, are very little inferior in speed to our second class of race horses in England; their speed and bottom must excite wonder and surprise to all who have been accustomed to horses at home.

The course, upon which a handsome stand for the stewards and ladies is erected, has been made at considerable expense, at Ross Bridge, about seventy miles from Hobart Town.

CHAPTER XX.

FIELD SPORTS.

THE emigrant who has ever been fond of field sports at home, must not expect to find any hunting in Van Diemen's Land that will afford him much pleasure; and, indeed, for some time after his arrival, if he be anxious and industrious, he will not want amusement of this kind: at the same time, a good kangaroo will supply the place of mutton, and be found a pleasant change after salt junk; but, though easily obtained, I should not advise the new comer to stray far from home by himself, or the chances may be, that he will not find his way back again.

The kangaroo is generally coursed by large dogs, stronger and taller than the common lurcher of this country; they hunt about with their nose near the ground, the hunters telling the dogs to " look out." The brush kangaroo is generally found in low swampy situations, and squats like a hare in the rough grass and underwood; these animals afford excellent sport; but from the hilly and rocky nature of the country they frequent, a good run is rarely seen. If the dogs kill the animal they are in pursuit of, one of them returns, and leads you to the place where the game lies; if both dogs return, and you have any doubt as to whether they have killed or not, you look at their mouths to see if they are besmeared with blood, and then telling them, to "go and show," they will scarcely ever deceive you. At the best, however, kangaroo hunting is slavish work, and not very likely to be relished by an Englishman, who is generally fond of viewing the chase, as well as carrying home, across his shoulders, the hind quarters of an animal that weighs from twenty to eighty pounds.

The flesh of the kangaroo is very delicious, and may be dressed various ways, but the principal and best method is, by what is termed, a "steamer." A part of the hind quarters, (for the fore quarters, from what reason I know not, are never cooked) is cut into small pieces, to which is added a little salt pork; and these stewed together, make one of the most delicious dishes that can be eaten. A damper,* and a flint and steel, with a good kangaroo dog, constitute the paraphernalia of a man who is likely to be out in the bush for a few days; with these appendages, and a rug made of kangaroo or oppossum skins, he is not likely to starve.

The morning is the time generally chosen by persons who make hunting a source of profit; the animal is then going off his feed, and is more easily taken. The boomer is the largest kind of kangaroo, and sometimes stands from four to seven feet high: when hard pressed, he will frequently turn and bay like a deer, except that he uses his toes instead of his head, having no horns; yet the former he uses in such a way as frequently to kill the dogs or lacerate them severely. Many thousands of these harmless animals are killed solely for their skins; the flesh is hawked about Hobart Town, and sold at a low price.

There are one or two small packs of harriers kept for the purpose of hunting the kangaroo; but none of them, with the exception of Mr. Gregson's, are kept or hunted in a sportsman-like manner.

However full of foxes Tasmania may be, my impression is, that it can never become a good hunting country. The immense hills, ascending and descending so abruptly, with the naturally bad scent over the tops of rocks, would put an effectual stop to good sport. This I have experienced with Mr. Gregson's hounds, when in pursuit of the kangaroo: sometimes we found them in such numbers, that it was impossible to keep hounds on one scent, and if, perchance, we got one away, he would lead us into such ravines, as to render it beyond the power of horse or man to follow him. I ought to add, that Mr. Gregson hunts his own hounds, and with his scarlet coat and good hunter, he cuts no despicable figure in so distant a clime. Still, it sometimes happens, that Mr. Gregson has some good runs; at any rate, to an Englishman, who had ever really felt the enchanting and soul-inspiring notes of a pack of hounds in England, it may easily be conceived how delightful it must be to hear the little rogues challenging one another among the hills and dales of Tasmania.

* The damper is a flat loaf, made by the prisoners, of flour and water, and baked on the earth, covered over with ashes. Nobody would suppose, unless they had partaken of it, that it could be possible to make it so light and sweet.

CHAPTER XXI.

THE ABORIGINES OF VAN DIEMEN'S LAND.

So little is known of these children of nature, and still less has been done to gain any knowledge of them, that not much can be offered as to their present numbers or condition. From what I have seen and read, the natives of Van Diemen's Land are unlike any other Indians, either in features, their mode of living, hunting, &c. There are many hundreds of people who have lived for years in the colony, and yet have never seen a native. The stock-keepers, and those who frequent the mountains and unlocated parts of the country, now and then fall in with them; and sometimes a tame mob,* as they are called, visit the distant settler, to beg bread and potatoes. An aborigine has occasionally been seen in HobartTown, but not of late years.

The features of these people are any thing but pleasing: a large flat nose, with immense nostrils; lips particularly thick; a wide mouth, with a tolerable good set of teeth; the hair long and woolly, which, as if to confer additional beauty, is besmeared with red clay (similar to our red ochre) and grease. The limbs of these people are badly proportioned; the women appear to be generally better formed than the men. Their only covering is a few kangaroo skins, rudely stitched, and thrown over the shoulders, but more frequently they appear in a state of nudity; indeed, so little knowledge have they of decency or comfort, that they never avail themselves of the purposes for which apparel is given to them.

Lieutenant Collins, in his account of the natives of JNevv South Wales, describes their marriage ceremonies as being most barbarous and brutal; and I have also heard from individuals who have visited New South Wales, that it is not uncommon to see a poor woman, almost beaten to death by her lover, previous to his marrying her. From the shyness of the natives of Van Diemen's Land, and the constant warfare that has been carried on between them and the remote stockkeepers (which is not likely to render them more familiar), I have never been able to ascertain whether there is any trace of religion among them, or if they have the slightest idea of a Supreme Being. I believe, and it is generally supposed, they have not. It is but fair to remark, however, that nothing has been done for them; the few that can speak a little English, only curse and swear, and this they catch up very readily from the different convicts they meet with.

I often wonder how these poor wretches have escaped the notice of the Missionary Societies. I have never heard, nor do I believe, that any teacher of the gospel ever went half a dozen miles from HobartTown, to enquire into their condition. Indeed, it has been remarked, that if such had been the case, much good might have been done, and many barbarous murders been prevented. At the same time, I wish not to be understood, that these people can ever be brought to a sense of Christian feeling, or be made useful members of society; for many of those that have had the advantage of being bred up under the care of a settler and his family, have abandoned their asylums at the age of fifteen or sixteen.

I believe I cannot introduce the following account of Bennilong, a Sydney native, in a more appropriate place, as demonstrative of the inflexible attachment these people entertain for a savage and unsettled mode of life. About the year 1790, when Governor Philips returned to England, he took with him two natives, Bennilong and Yamerrawannie; lliey left their country voluntarily, and arrived safe in England. From the great curiosity they excited, as being the first natives that ever landed in England, they were frequently introduced into the society of great people, yet, notwithstanding the fine sights of London, and the various comforts which surrounded them, nothing could abate their love of liberty and the bush of Australasia. Every pains were taken to instruct them in the rudiments of religion and education, and to convert them into peacemakers between their brethren and the settlers of New South Wales. Bennilong returned to Sydney in the early part of the year 1795, having been absent more than three years; for some time after his arrival, he is said to have conducted himself extremely well, and to have carried with him the manners of a polished Englishman; he dined regularly at government house, and his dress appeared as much a matter of custom, as though he had never led an uncivilised life; but so paramount is the love of liberty amongst us all, and such the force of habit, that this native eventually threw off his good clothes and left a comfortable domicile and a table loaded with luxuries, to mingle again with the companions of his youth. I nevertheless have no doubt that he did great good amongst the different tribes he afterwards associated with.

There are but few instances of any native having entirely forsaken his tribe, however young he may have been taken away; they appear to dislike any thing in the shape of labour, although, if they take to cattle, they are, beyond any thing, quick in tracing and finding those lost. So acute is their power of discrimination, that they have been known to trace the footsteps of bush-rangers over mountains and rocks, and, although the individual they have been in pursuit of has walked into the sides of a river as if to cross it, to elude the vigilance of his pursuers, and have swam some distance down and crossed when convenient, yet nothing can deceive them. Indeed so remarkable is their discernment, that if but the slightest piece of moss on a rock has been disturbed by footsteps, they will instantly detect it.

The aborigines of this island have no appointed place or situation to live in; they roam about at will, followed by a pack of dogs, of different sorts and sizes, but which are used principally for hunting the kangaroo, oppossum, bandicoot, &c. They are passionately fond of their dogs, so much so, that the females are frequently known to suckle a favorite puppy instead of the child. They rarely ever move at night, but encircle themselves round a large fire, and sleep in a sitting posture, with their heads between their knees. So careless are they of their children, that it is not uncommon to see boys grown up, with feet exhibiting the loss of a toe or two, having, when infants, been dropped into the fire by the mother.

The children are generally carried (by the women) astride across the shoulders, in a careless manner. They live entirely by hunting, and do not fish so much, or use the canoe, as in New South Wales, although the women are tolerably expert divers; the craw fish and oyster, if immediately on the coast, are their principal food. Oppos sums and kangaroos may be said to be their chief support; the latter is as delicious a treat to an epicure, as the former is the reverse. The manner of cooking their victuals, is by throwing it on the fire, merely to singe off the hair; they eat voraciously, and are very little removed from the brute creation as to choice of food; entrails, See. sharing the same chance as the choicest parts. They are extremely expert in climbing, and can reach the top of the largest forest trees, without the aid of branches; they affect this by means of a small sharp flint, which they clasp tightly in the ball of their four fingers, and having cut a notch out of the bark, they easily ascend, with the large toe of each foot in one notch, and their curiously manufactured hatchet in the other.

Their weapons of defence are the spear and waddie; the former is about twelve feet long and as thick as the little finger of a man; the tea tree supplies them with this matchless weapon; they harden one end which is very sharply pointed, by burning and filing it with a flint prepared for the purpose. In throwing the spear they are very expert; indeed of late, their audacious atrocities have been lamentably great; although at the same time, I have little hesitation in saying, they have arisen from the cruel treatment experienced by some of their women from the hands of the distant stock-keepers. Indeed, these poor mortals, I know, have been shot at merely to gratify a most barbarous cruelty. The natives seldom fail to have their revenge,* and in such a case as the following, many innocent men have suffered. I once remember sending a young convict servant, just arrived in the island, into the bush as a hut-keeper to two shepherds, one of whom had formerly been an assigned servant to J. Evans, Esq., the late surveyor-general, and was known by the name of Abysinnian Tom, from his having been a terror to a mob of natives designated by the name of the Abysinnian mob. This man, I am informed, had shot numbers, and from his having a double-barrelled gun, was able to put any multitude to flight; by the bye, the natives cannot find out the cause of the piece going off twice. I sent this lad with a strict injunction that he was not to leave his hut; however, he chose to act otherwise, and suffered death for his disobedience; for having rambled some, distance from the hut, they speared him completely through his back, and having beat his head to pieces with their waddies (a short stick about two and a half feet long, and about an inch in diameter:) then returned and robbed the hut of what they could find most portable.

After killing a white man, the natives have a sort of dance and rejoicing, jumping and singing, and sending forth the strangest noises ever heard. They do not molest the body when dead, nor have I ever heard of their stripping or robbing the deceased. Among themselves they have no funeral rites, and those who are aged or diseased, are left in hollow trees, or under the ledges of rocks, to pine and die. These people are subject to a disease which causes the mostloathesome ulcerated sores; two or three whom I saw, were wretchedlooking objects. I remember a very old man who was thus affected, being tried and hung, for spearing one of Mr. Hart's men; the culprit was so ill and infirm, as to be obliged to be carried to the place of execution. I think the colonial-surgeons call the disease the " bush-scab;" and that it is occasioned by a filthy mode of life. The population of natives is very small in proportion to the extent of the island; several causes may be alleged for their smallness of numbers; the principal one is their having been driven about from place to place, by settlers taking new locations; another cause is the great destruction of the kangaroo, which obliges the natives to labour hard to procure food sufficient for their sustenance; this, and their having no means of procuring vegetables, besides being constantly exposed to the weather, together with their offensive habits of living, produce the disease above-mentioned, with its fatal consequences.

* These unfortunate beings have a native or two with them, who have either lived or been brought up with a settler; but, tired of work, which they dislike amazingly, have left their employers to rove about, as nature intended them to da.

* la their manners as regards revenge, they are artful, treacherous, and cruel, and have been frequently known to approach a hut with their spears concealed between their toes, and their arms extended, meaning to imply that they have no weapon of war with them; and although they have never suffered the least molestation, on the contrary, have been fed and well treated, they will, if an opportunity offers, commit murder. This has too frequently happened; indeed there have been more people murdered by these uncivilised beings of late, than during the whole period since the island was colonized.

APPENDIX.

N°. I.

THIRD REPORT
OF THE
VAN DIEMEN'S LAND COMPANY.

AT the last Annual Meeting, on the 13th of March, 1827, the Directors took occasion to explain to the Proprietors, the progress that had been made towards the acquisition of a tract of land, suitable to the purposes for which the Company was formed; and concluded by informing them, that a station had been selected at Circular Head, for the first establishment, around which there appeared a prospect of finding a sufficiency of good and useful land, although lying somewhat scattered and divided.

It being necessary to provide immediate shelter for the people, and an early supply of agricultural produce for the subsistence of the establishment, the farming servants were employed in clearing land, and the mechanics in erecting huts, and other temporary accommodations. In the mean time, the Company's surveyors, under the direction of the agents, were engaged in a more extended examination of the North-west portion of the island, to a considerable distance from Circular Head, with a view to determine the situation and boundaries of the future Grant.

Circular Head is a peninsula, computed to contain about 8,000 acres of land; of which 4,000 acres may be considered good sheep land, being for the most part dry, open, grassy hills, with a herbage of fine grass, trefoil, cinquefoil, and wild vetches; equal, in the spring season, to any English meadow. About 2,000 acres are woody, being thinly covcred with small trees, growing similar to the hawthorn in England, and affording excellent shelter for sheep. Many parts are rocky; but the most part abounds in grass, and the whole is capable of being converted into sheep-pasture at a comparatively small expense. As a homestead, and a principal agricultural establishment, Mr. Curr, the Company's chief agent, writes that nothing can surpass it.

The adjacent country, although it contains some considerable portions of excellent meadow and grazing land, with a narrow slip of good sheep-run down the West coast, was found to consist, in general, of barren heathy plains, and low swampy forests; so that a sufficient tract of land suitable for a large sheep-farm could not be had, without extending the boundaries over a wider space than could either have been allowed by Government, or have been convenient to the Company.

Mr. Hellyer, the Company's chief surveyor, was therefore despatched on the 1st of February, 1827, on an expedition to the Southward, to examine a large open district, which on former excursions had been seen from two different points of view, and promised to realise the best hopes of the agents. After a painful journey on foot, with only two attendants, in which the party patiently endured privations and surmounted difficulties calculated to arrest the progress of less enterprising travellers, they came, on the 13th, upon grassy hills, of the extent of which they had previously no idea. Crossing these, and passing through a considerable tract of mvrtle forest, they forded a wide and deep river flowing to the North, which they named the Emu. On the 14th, they arrived at the base of a lofty hill, which was named, after the day, Valentine's Peak. From the summit, and from an elevation of 3,000 feet, they saw a fine open country to the North-east and South-west. Descending the South side of the hill, they alighted in the evening upon grassy hills and knolls, resembling a neglected old park in England; 1,000 to 1,500 acres in a patch, and without a tree, except a few clumps of blacltwood. Kangaroos were here in abundance, as in every other part of the country about to be described; a sure sign of the goodness of the soil and herbage. A brook runs across this district, the banks of which are green with trefoil. Proceeding in a direction West-south-west, they passed through an excellent country, consisting of gently rising, dry, grassy hills. On the following day, they walked over many considerable hills, the grass of which had recently been burned by the natives; and soon after came to a noble river, with a strong current, gliding smoothly along from South to North, and which they named the Don, by way of distinction. At that part it was about sixty yards wide; and in the shallowest place, up to their middles in crossing. On its banks are complete sloping shrubberies. At some distance from this river, (Mr. Hellyer proceeds to state,) they ascended the most magnificent grassy hill he had seen in the island; the sides consisting of several level terraces, as if laid out by art; and the top crowned with a straight row of stately peppermint trees; beyond which, there was not a tree for four miles along the grassy hills. He congratulated himself on having had so fine a day as the preceding, or he would have had a very imperfect idea of the extent of good country around him. The plains, or rather hills, which he had just passed over, he named, from their extent and importance, the Surrey Hills, being about the same distance inland as that County in England. He describes them as resembling English enclosures, in many respects; being bounded by brooks between each, with belts of beautiful shrubs in every vale. The grasses in the line of their walk were principally timothy, foxtail, and single kangaroo. The surface soil is a dark vegetable mould, upon a rich brown open loam, of various depths, and lighter in colour according to its depth: but the substratum is everywhere gravelly, which appears to render these hills perfectly dry. All the brooks have hard pebbly bottoms, are free from mud, and the water is as clear as crystal. The trees found on these hills are generally, of fine growth, very tall and straight; some of them measuring a hundred feet to the lowest branch, and standing a hundred yards apart. This Mr. Hellyer does not think at all too thickly timbered to afford a shade from the summer heat; and, it should be remembered, that the trees of Van Diemen's Land do not cover the ground as in England: in number, they did not average more than about ten to an acre. There were many open plains hereabout, of several square miles, without a single tree. The plains, or hills, to the North of the Peak, (being the first open country Mr. Hellyer entered upon in this journey,) he has named the Hampshire Hills. They appear even more parklike than the Surrey Hills; and are handsomely clumped with trees. The course of the, party from the Peak had now carried them nearly twenty miles; and, as far as they were able to see, there arose on all sides grassy hills out of number, which it was delightful to look round upon from one higher than the rest. In tracing their way back to Circular Head, they came to the bend of a deep and rapid river, larger than the Don, already described, and more than ten feet deep close to the banks. This they named the Arthur, in compliment to his Excellency the Lieutenant Governor, being one of the principal rivers of the island. Of the two districts now described, that named the Surrey Hills appears, upon a map drawn by Mr. Hellyer, and which lies upon the table, to be nearly a parallelogram, thirty miles in length, and fifteen in breadth; lying at a distance of about twenty-five miles from Bass's Straits, at the nearest point. That called the Hampshire Hills, lying between the former and the North coast, is of a less regular figure, and may be computed to be about ten miles in length, by eight in breadth. The river Emu runs through the Hampshire Hills into Bass's Straits. The Arthur, which passes through the Surrey Hills, is supposed to enter the Western sea. The course of the Don is not yet sufficiently known.

The description given by Mr. Hellyer of the country travelled over by him in this interesting journey, has since been confirmed by Mr. Fossey, another surveyor of the Company; who, entering it from the Eastward, came upon a different part of the Surrey Hills; and, crossing a river called the Leven, represents the country in its vicinity as so admirably laid out by nature, that it assumes very much the appearance of a nobleman's domain, both as to extent and good quality. Mr. Fossey adds, that from actual observation, these tracts of land, both as to extent and quality, are likely to suit the purpose for which they arc required.

These concurring narratives immediately determined the agents, on looking to the district of the Hills, as the future site of the Company's Grant; and the Directors have the satisfaction to Report that a minute of agreement has been signed on behalf of the Company, by which permission has been obtained of His Majesty's Government to select one block of 20,000 acres at Circular Head; and two blocks, to comprise together 220,000 acres, in the districts just described: all at the valuation originally agreed on. The useless, or unprofitable land, which it may be necessary to include, in order to give a well-defined boundary, will be granted to the Company gratuitously, according to the stipulation mentioned in the last Report; and is allowed to extend to one-fourth part of the whole Grant, or an addition (if needful) of 62,500 acres. A fourth block, of 10,000 acres, will be selected at the option of the Company, at some point intermediate between the larger Grant, and the settled districts.

The Company's agents next turned their attention to the mean's of establishing a communication between the Grant and the Capital of the island; either by a Northerly route to the coast, and thence by sea to the Tamar and Launcestown; or, Eastward, by land, directly to the same point. Mr. Hellyer was accordingly engaged, at the date of the last accounts, in exploring the course of the Emu river, and in taking measures for opening up a road to its entrance into the sea; while a survey had been undertaken of the mouth of that river, in order to ascertain its fitness, or otherwise, for a harbour. Mr. Fossey was employed in investigating the practicability and probable cost of a road from Launcestown to the district of the Hills. Although the country was mountainous, and a road for carriages would consequently be circuitous, he does not doubt but one will ultimately be discovered.

The Directors, having thus succeeded in obtaining a tract of country peculiarly calculated to answer the ends of the Company, have given directions that a part of the establishment shall be removed from Circular Head thither; which the Agents, anticipating the wish of the Court, were preparing to do in the ensuing spring, that is, in September, or October last. In some well selected spot in the district of the Hills, the Directors contemplate that the site of the chief establishment will be permanently fixed; and that, by another year, they may congratulate the Proprietors on their stock being collected, and in a state of progressive increase and improvement, there.

The Directors informed the Proprietors, at the last annual Meeting, of their intention to purchase some fine-woolled sheep in Europe; and, that instructions had been sent to the agents in Van Diemen's Land, to make further purchases there. They have now to state, that in addition to the fifty long-woolled English sheep sent from hence in 1826, a cargo of 310 very superior Saxon sheep was sent out last July, which had arrived at the Cape of Good Hope with a loss of 39, and every prospect of making the rest of the voyage without further diminution or accident. Of eight horses and six head of neat cattle in the same ship, one horse and one mare had died: the rest were all perfectly healthy. Those sheep, with the addition of 2,300 purchased or contracted for in the colony, on terms which the Directors consider to be very favourable, make a total, exclusive of lambs, of 2,160 fine-woolled sheep, and 500 for store; the fleeces from all which may be expected home in the course of the ensuing summer. The Directors propose to continue their shipments of sheep from Europe, as well as their purchases in the colony; the outlay for which, beyond the actual establishment, will be almost the only head of expense. The whole establishment in Van Diemen's Land consisted, in June last, of 132 persons; of whom 55 were convict labourers. On the arrival of the ship Caroline, expected to reach Circular Head about Christmas last, their numbers would be increased to 155 persons, exclusive of women and children.

The Directors continue to receive the most satisfactory accounts from the agents of the Company, with proofs of zeal and diligence in their superior officers and servants, that promise the happiest results.

The Directors refer to the balance of the books, and the abstract of receipts and expenditure, which arc laid on the table for the information of the Proprietors: and, in order to carry on the important measures now briefly explained, have resolved to make a further call of £2 10.9. per share; one-half to be paid immediately, and the remainder at such time as it may appear to be wanted.

The delay that has taken place in the location of the Grant, the only point on which the Directors have experienced any material disappointment, has necessarily been attended with some inconvenience and expense. Nevertheless, they feel confident, that both the delay and expense will in due time be compensated for by the value of their land and improvements. While they congratulate the Proprietors, therefore, on the substantial progress that has been made in the Company's affairs, and on the prospect that the course of improvement so happily begun will be steadily pursued, they can add, that their own sanguine expectations of the ultimate success of the undertaking are in no degree abated: but, on the contrary, that the best hopes of the Proprietors will, at no distant period, be fully realised.

JOHN PEARSE,

CHAIRMAN.

By order of the Court,

GEORGE SALT TUCKER, Clerk.

N°. II.

THE NEW SETTLEMENT
AT
SWAN RIVER,
ON THE WESTERN COAST OF AUSTRALIA.

TERMS ON WHICH LAND WILL BE GRANTED TO SETTLERS DURING THE YEAR 1829.

ALTHOUGH it is the intention of His Majesty's Government to form a Settlement on the Western Coast of Australia, the Government do not intend to incur any expense in conveying Settlers, or in supplying them with necessaries after their arrival.

Such Persons, however, as may be prepared to proceed to that Country before the end of the year one thousand eight hundred and twenty-nine, in parties comprehending a proportion of not less than five female to six male Settlers, will receive Grants of Laud in fee simple, (free of Quit-rent,) proportioned to the Capital which they may invest upon Public or Private Objects in the Colony, to the satisfaction of His Majesty's Government at home, certified by the Snperintendant or other Officer administering the Colonial Government, at the rate of 40 Acres for every sum of £3 so invested, provided they give previous security:—First, that all supplies sent to the Colony, whether of Provisions, Stores, or other Articles, which may be purchased by the Capitalists there, or which shall have been sent out for the use of them, or their Parties, on the requisition of the Secretary of State, if not paid for on delivery in the Colony, shall be paid for at home; each Capitalist being to be held liable in his proportion:—And, Secondly, that on the event of the Establishment being broken up by the Government or Superintendant, all Persons desirous of returning to the British Islands, shall be conveyed to their own home, at the expense of the Capitalists by whom they may have been taken out. The Passages of Labouring Persons, whether paid for by themselves or others, and whether they be male or female, provided the proportion of the sexes before mentioned be preserved, will be considered as an Investment of Capital, entitling the party by whom any such payment may have been made, to an allowance of Land at the rate of £15., that is of 200 acres of Land for the Passage of every such Labouring Person, over and above any other Investment of Capital. Any Land thus granted, which shall not have been brought into Cultivation, or otherwise improved or reclaimed from its wild state, to the satisfaction of Government, within 21 years from the date of the G$$Unclear$$nt, shall, at the end of the 21 years, revert absolutely to the Crown.

All these Conditions, with respect to Free Grants of Land, and all Contracts of Labouring Persons, and others who shall have bound themselves for a stipulated term of Service, will be strictly maintained.

It is not intended that any Convicts, or other description of Prisoners, be sent to this New Settlement.

The Government will be administered by Captain Stirling, of the Royal Navy, as Civil Superintendant of the Settlement; and a Bill, in the nature of a Civil Charter, will be submitted to Parliament in the commencement of its next Session.

J. MERRIMAN, PRINTER,

119, Fleet Street.