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The original publication details are as follows:

Title: The commission of H.M.S. Archer, Australian Station, 1900-1904 / by R.G Byrn.

Author: Byrn, R. G.

Published: Westminster Press, 1904

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THE "LOG" SERIES.

O'er the glad waters of the dark blue sea,
Our thoughts as boundless, and our souls as free,
Far as the breeze can bear, the billows foam,
Survey our Empire, and behold our home!
These are our realms, no limits to their sway—
Our flag the sceptre all who meet obey.

BRYON.

NATIVE GIRLS OF NONOUTI, GILBERT ISLANDS (BRITISH).

THE LOG SERIES No. 9.
THE COMMISSION OF
H.M.S. ARCHER
Australian Station.
1900-1904.
BY
R. G. BYRN.

London:
THE WESTMINSTER PRESS (GERRARDS LTD.),
411a HARROW ROAD, W.
1904.

H.M.S. "ARCHER."

Cruiser, Third-Class.

Length, 225ft.; Breadth, 36ft.
Displacement, 1770 tons.
Horse Power, 2,200 N.D.
Speed, 17 Knots.
Cost, £97,449.
Complement, 170 Officers and Men.
Year completed, 1886.
Built at Glasgow.
Engines—Thompson.

ARMAMENT—

Six 6-inch Guns.
Eight 3-pounder Guns.
Two Machine Guns.
Three Torpedo Tubes.

LIST OF OFFICERS.

The Log of
H.M.S. "ARCHER."

ON Thursday, August 30th, 1900, at 9 a.m., H.M.S. "Archer" hoisted her pennant at Chatham, and was duly announced in commission for the purpose of relieving her sister ship, the " Mohawk," on the Australian Station.

With the usual bustle and excitement incidental to a newly-commissioned ship, time passed until, on September 4th, we left Chatham for Sheerness, which place we reached at 5.45 p.m., and made fast to No. 18 buoy. The next day we were inspected by Captain Campbell, of Sheerness Gunnery School.

At 9.30 a.m. on the 6th we left Sheerness for a coalconsumption trial, which proved satisfactory; and we returned the same day.

We were now all ready; so at noon the next day signal was made for permission to part company, and shortly afterwards we were plunging ahead on our way to Australian waters.

After a pleasant run across the " Bay," we reached Gibraltar on the 12th, and at once went alongside the Mole and prepared to coal, taking in 155 tons the next day.

At 9.5 a.m. on the 14th we left for Malta, at which place we arrived on the 18th, and made fast to a buoy.

The next day we coaled ship, taking in 110tons. The transport, " Hawarden Castle," arrived at noon en route to South Africa.

At 6 a.m. on Friday, the 21st, we left Malta for Port Said, where we arrived on the 25th at 3.30 a.m. Here we experienced the usual routine—coal ship, taking in 78 tons only, proceeding the same day through the Canal, anchoring at 5.30 p.m. at Ismailia.

The next morning we left Ismailia and arrived at Suez at 1.20 p.m., passing H.M.S. " Fearless" on our way. There we met H.M.S. " Melita," the U.S. cruiser " Buffalo," and two Egyptian revenue ships. At 8.50 p.m. we left Port Said for Aden.

On Monday, October 1st, we met and communicated with S.S. " Ophir."

Tuesday, October 2nd.—Arrived at Aden after a fairly good passage through the Red Sea, and at once started coaling, taking in 165 tons. H.M.S. " Racoon" was in port.

October 3rd.—At 8.15 p.m. we weighed and proceeded to Colombo, in Ceylon. Drills and cleaning ship occupied the time daily until October 12th, when we arrived at Colombo.

October 15th.—We received 155 tons of coal; and at 3.15 p.m. the next day left for Batavia (Java), arriving there on the 23rd. Here we saluted the Dutch flag with twenty-one guns, the salute being returned by a battery on shore.

October 24th.—Received 160 tons of coal, and at once left for Koepong, and after a pleasant trip arrived at 3.35 p.m. on the 29th. The Dutch Government S.S. " Pelikoon" was lying here at anchor.

October 30th, at 6.3 p.m., saluted Dutch flag with twenty-one guns, a fort on shore returning the salute. At 7.35 we proceeded to the coaling wharf, where we took in 140 tons of coal, leaving soon after.

November 4th.—Arrived at Thursday Island and went alongside coal hulk. Dutch man-o'-war " Sumatra" in port.

November 5th.—Commenced coaling at 6 a.m., finishing the next morning at 2.15; after which we left harbour and anchored off East Banin Reef at 9.55 a.m. We lay here till 4.50 the next morning, when we weighed and proceeded to Sydney, N.S.W.

Arrived at Sydney on the 14th, and went alongside Garden Island. Here we saluted Rear-Admiral Pearson with thirteen guns, the " Ringarooma" returning the salute with seven guns. Ships in port—" Katoomba," " Ringarooma," " Tauranga," and " Ringdove"; also a German man-o'-war. The same day the " Boomerang" arrived.

November 15th.—Went alongside coaling shed and commenced coaling at 8.40 a.m., finishing for the day at 9 p.m. At 6.40 the next morning we resumed coaling, finishing at noon, total, 200 tons; after which we proceeded to No. 5 buoy. " Porpoise" arrived.

Friday, November 23rd.—U.S. transport " Glacier" arrived. Nothing of importance occurred till December 10th, when we were inspected by Rear-Admiral Hugo L. Pearson, Commander-in-Chief, who reported all satisfactory.

December 15th, at 8 a.m., slipped buoy and proceeded to sea in company with H.M. ships " Porpoise," " Boomerang," " Torch," " Karrakatta," and " Ringdove." As soon as we got outside we sighted the " Royal Arthur," with the flag of Lord Hopetoun, GovernorGeneral of Australia, flying. " Porpoise" and " Torch" saluted with nineteen guns; then we altered course and formed astern of " Royal Arthur," returning to Sydney harbour.

December 17th, at 8.15 a.m., slipped buoy and proceeded outside with " Torch," " Karrakatta," " Boomerang," and " Porpoise" for target practice. At 5.45 p.m. we anchored in Broken Bay, the other ships returning to Sydney.

December 18th.—Left Broken Bay for Sydney.

December 24th.—Landed a review party in connection with Commonwealth celebration, under Lieut. Marshall, of H.M.S. " Ringarooma."

December 25th (Christmas Day).—In the forenoon the Captain, officers, and friends of both officers and men visited the mess deck, which was tastefully decorated, after which a very pleasant time was spent, many of the ship's company going on shore.

The rest of the week was passed quietly, landing parties going each day to prepare for the coming review.

January 1st, 1901.—Dressed ship, and at 9 a.m. landed parade battalion to take part in Commonwealth celebration. At 1.25 p.m. a royal salute of twenty-one guns was fired. Conclusion of swearing-in ceremony of Lord Hopetoun, first Governor-General of Federated Australia.

January 12th.—Citizens' smoking concert held in Town Hall, Sydney, to which officers and men of the fleet and Imperial and Indian troops were invited.

The past few days have been spent in usual harbour routine, nothing of note happening till January 19th, when Rear-Admiral Beaumont took over command of squadron from Rear-Admiral Pearson, who left for home in the P.S.N.C. S.S. " Orizaba."

January 21st.—Started second course of annual rifle firing at Flemmington. To-day the following general signal was made:—" News has reached Sydney that the condition of Her Most Gracious Majesty the Queen is very grave. Officers commanding H.M. ships are to take great care that nothing is done on board by officers or men which is unsuitable or out of harmony with this testimony of anxious expectation. All officers and men going on shore are to be informed of my wish."

January 23rd.—Colours half-masted, and the following signal was made:—" It is with deep and profound regret that I have to announce to officers and men of the squadron the death of H.M. Queen Victoria, which took place yesterday evening." At 4 p.m. " Royal Arthur" and shore battery started firing minute guns.

January 24th.—Fired royal salute, 21 guns, and guards paraded at the proclamation of King Edward VII.

January 29th.—A few officers of the squadron attended State Proclamation of the accession of King Edward VII. at the Governor's House.

January 31st.—After a spell in harbour we at last got orders to leave, and after taking on board ammunition for H.M.S. " Mildura" we, on February 2nd, left for Wellington, New Zealand.

February 5th.—We have had a very rough passage, but the weather has calmed down, so to-day we exercised general quarters, dropped target, and did some cannon tube practice from 6-inch and 3-pounder guns. At 11.50 p.m. exercised night quarters.

February 10th.—More rough weather, with rain and mist, but at 8 a.m. to-day we arrived at Wellington, and found " Mildura" and No. 62 transport " Britannia" in port.

February 11th.—All hands employed getting out ammunition and stores for H.M.S. " Mildura."

February 12th.—Gave general leave to port watch; remainder of hands stowing holds. Next day prepared for coaling, and took in 159 tons.

February 14th.—At 7.30 a.m. left for Coromandel Harbour, arriving off that place on the morning of the 18th. Here we exercised cannon tube from all guns, after which we went to target practice with 6-inch and 3-pounders. Practice completed, we proceeded, in company with " Mildura," to Auckland, and anchored at 8.30 p.m. At 9.30 burned searchlights.

After a few days at anchor, during which time we have had heavy weather, we, at 9.15 this morning, the 25th, got under weigh and proceeded into dock.

March 1st.—The bottom having been thoroughly cleaned, we floated the ship this morning, but owing to the rough state of the sea, decided to remain where we are till the weather moderates.

March 2nd.—Left dock and picked up anchorage.

March 4th.—Prepared for coaling, and started at 9 a.m., taking in 118 tons.

March 5th.—Prepared for sea and left at 8.30 a.m., and commenced a four hours' full speed trial, after which a three-fifths trial was carried out.

March 6th.—Dropped target and carried out cannon tube practice.

March 7th.—Dropped target and expended halfquarter's ammunition from 6-inch and 3-pounder guns.

March 8th.—Sighted Mount Mata Kitaki, and, sounding continuously, picked our way through these waters, and anchored at Port Waitangi, Chatham Islands, at 10.14. At 2.25 p.m. we again weighed, and proceeded to Port Hutt, where we moored ship at 3.50. At night, burned searchlights.

March 9th.—Manned and armed boats, and carried out quarterly firing from boats. Ran torpedoes, also landed field-gun and carried out quarterly practice. Another party went away " sweeping and creeping," and the divers had their quarterly dip. After a very long day we landed a seining party, who had great sport, fish being in abundance; average weight of those caught, thirty pounds.

March 11th.—Left for Waitangi, where we sent a boat on shore for the Resident Magistrate, who, coming on board, we continued our course for Pitt Island, which we reached at 10.10. The Captain and Magistrate went on shore, while we lay off waiting for them. At 2.10 they returned on board, and we returned to Waitangi and anchored.

March 13th.—Left Waitangi for Lyttleton. Exercised collision stations.

March 15th.—Arriving off Lyttleton, Harbour Master came on board, when we proceeded to the inner harbour, and made fast to buoys ahead and astern.

March 16th.—Saturday's routine—clean ship, exercise fire stations.

March 17th (Sunday).—The ship's company attended divine service at St. Matthew's Church.

March 18th.—Coaled ship, taking in 176 tons. After a very pleasant time in harbour, during which time general leave was given to both watches, we, on April 1st, slipped from our buoys and proceeded to sea.

April 2nd.—Dropped target, and carried out cannon tube practice, after which we proceeded on our journey, and arrived at Auckland, New Zealand, at 7.25 a.m. on the 5th. Here we found the " Mildura" at anchor.

After returning stores and Admiralty property at this place, we prepared for sea on the 9th, and at 9.30 a.m. on the 10th left and carried out cannon tube practice, also fired torpedoes at towing target. The same evening we anchored in Bon Accord Harbour.

April 11th.—Manned and armed boats, and carried out quarterly firing from boats; harbour runs of torpedoes, and sweeping and creeping; at 10.30 exercised night quarters.

April 12th.—At 9 a.m. left for Auckland, which we reached at 1.12 p.m. and anchored, but proceeded to sea again next day.

April 14th (Sunday).—Mustered by open list to-day. Observed land, bearing due West.

April 15th.—At 9 a.m. stopped to pick up Harbour Master, who took us up to Napin, Hawkes Bay, New Zealand, where we anchored. At 9.35 cleared ship for battle.

April 16th.—Landed small arm companies for route marching.

April 17th.—Got under weigh" and left for Timam, New Zealand.

April 19th.—Exercised general quarters and collision stations in the forenoon, and at 3.18 p.m. picked up pilot and proceeded to Timam, where we made fast to buoys. While lying here the ship was thrown open to visitors.

April 21st (Sunday).—After the usual routine during the day, we slipped from buoy at 9.30 p.m., and proceeded to Port Chalmers, where we moored ship.

After a stay in harbour, during which time we landed small arm party for route marching, and carried out other evolutions; we, on the 29th, unmoored ship, and proceeded for Wellington. As soon as we got clear of the land, we encountered a very sharp squall from the S.-W. with heavy rain.

May 1st.—Anchored at Wellington, where we found H.M.S. " Torch."

May 6th.—At 7 a.m. we started coaling, taking in 40 tons, after which clean ship ready to leave on Wednesday.

May 7th.—Got clear under weigh at 6 p.m. and left. Weather very misty. Picked up Harbour Master next day, and ran alongside and made fast to West Port pier.

May 10th.—Prepared for coaling, and took in 174 tons, after which we carried out Saturdays' routine, at night exercising searchlights.

May 12th.—Let go from pier and proceeded to sea. Next morning we dropped target and carried out cannon tube practice, and at night did night firing from 3-pounders.

May 15th.—For the past three days we have had very heavy weather, the ship pitching and rolling so heavily that our course had to be altered.

May 16th.—Anchored at Auckland and gave general leave, first to starboard, and after to port watch.

May 19th.—Mustered by open list; landed ship's company to attend divine service, and in the evening prepared for sea.

May 21st.—Too rough yesterday to leave, so had to wait till this morning, when we left, in company with the " Torch," to carry out prize firing, anchoring at night off Boiner Island.

May 22nd.—Proceeded with our prize firing, changing officers with H.M.S. " Torch" for marking purposes, after which we weighed targets and mark buoys, and returned to Auckland. The next morning we commenced coaling, taking in 136 tons.

June 10th.—We have been lying here since last entry in log. General leave, landing parties, etc., have occupied our time; but to-day, the " Ophir," accompanied by the " Juno" and " St. George," arrived, the " Royal Arthur" saluting T.R.H. the Duke and Duchess of York with twenty-one guns. In the evening, " Royal Arthur," " St. George," and " Juno," illuminated ship rainbow fashion.

June 12th.—Landed party to take part in review before the Prince.

June 16th.—" Ophir," " St. George," and " Juno" sailed. The " Pylades," " Torch," and " Sparrow" also left, we remaining behind; but at 4 p.m. we left for a full speed and three-fifths steam trial.

June 19th.—Trials proving satisfactory we made our way to Lyttleton, and anchored in outer harbour. The " Pylades," " Torch,"and " Sparrow," arrivingshortly after.

June 22nd.—" Ophir," " St. George," and " Juno" arrived, the " Royal Arthur" firing a twenty-one gun salute, and the whole dressing ships.

June 25th.—Coaled ship, taking in 133 tons.

June 27th.—"Ophir,' "St. George," and "Juno" sailed, the whole cheering ship as H.R.H. the Duke of York passed.

June 29th.—Weighed and proceeded to sea the next day, exercising cannon tube practice.

July 2nd.—Battened down fore and aft, the ship rollingand pitching tremendously, so that we stopped and anchored at Lowrie Harbour, Port Ross.

July 5th.—Weighed and proceeded, anchoring shortly after at Sandy Bay, where we made search for a whaler lost a few days ago. No trace of whaler, so continued our way to Hanfield Inlet, where we remained till the 9th.

July 10th.— Anchored at Perseverance Harbour, Campbell Islands. Sole inhabitants, three men—sheep farmers.

July 12th.—Left Perseverance Harbour and ran into a gale. Ship rolling violently. Heavy snow squalls.

July 15th.—Anchored at depot anchorage, Antipodes Island, leaving the same afternoon.

July 18th.—Same old weather since last entry. Wind and snow squalls, but at 4 p.m. we made fast to buoy in Wellington Harbour.

AUCKLAND ISLANDS.

Variation in 1900: 17° 30' East. Nearly stationary.

These islands are twenty-eight miles in length, and situated about 200 miles South of Stewart Island, New Zealand. They have been selected as a station for the rearing of sheep. Port Ross, where we anchored, is indented with several bays, surrounded by basaltic rocks easy of approach, and covered with trees from the seaboard to the summit. The soil, of volcanic formation, is covered with a thick layer of vegetable débris, producing a dense growth of ferns.

Carnley Harbour is about the worst anchorage in the Auckland Islands, on account of the entrance being exposed to the ocean swell—very heavy at times—with an outgoing current, and the wind generally in violent gusts.

Hanfield inlet is very convenient to ships, as water can be had in abundance from the waterfall (we watered here with cutters).

CAMPBELL ISLANDS.

Variation in 1900: 180 4'5 East.

These islands lie about 318 miles south of Stewart Island, New Zealand. The shores of Perseverance Harbour on either side are steep, and rise abruptly to between 800 and 900 feet. Mount Lyall is the highest peak, rising about 1,365 feet. The hills here have a more desolate appearance than those of the Auckland Islands, being less wooded, and the trees nowhere attain so great a height as in the Aucklands. This is caused, I believe, by the prevailing powers of the westerly gales. The occurrence of sudden and violent rushes of wind is a remarkable and characteristic phenomenon of all the islands situated in and about this latitude. In the inner harbour there is very good anchorage for ships; it is land-locked, and water plentiful. This is the only place inhabited, the inhabitants numbering three during our stay and calls. The provision depot and boat shed are in Tucker's Cove, and the position indicated by a white staff. A finger post shows the position of the depots in all the islands.

PENGUINS ON BOUNTY ISLAND
H.M.S. " Archer" in the distance

ANTIPODES ISLANDS.

Variation in 1900: 17° 30' East.

The Antipodes Islands, the nearest land antipodal to the position of Greenwich, are 400 miles S. 42. E. from Otago Harbour (S. I.), New Zealand. Our anchorage was at depôt anchorage under a cliff rising about 400 feet, and this cliff was of volcanic formation and very bare. The provision depôt is a hut upon Reef Point, 100 feet above the sea. Parties from the ship visited these depôts and reported " All well."

BOUNTY ISLANDS.

Variation in 1900: 16° 55' East.

These islands are about 360 miles S. 72° E. of Otago Harbour, New Zealand, and were discovered in 1788 by Captain Bligh, R.N. They are a dangerous and very rugged group of rocks, rather than islands. On one, which can barely be called an island, is situated the provision depot, which can easily be seen by ships from the northward, at a height of about 120 feet above the sea. Very little vegetation is found there, but a few penguins were seen.

After a nice long stay in harbour, during which we were kept busy with daily evolutions, landing parties, etc., we left on Monday, August 5th, to run torpedoes at towing target, after which we anchored at Picton, and at 10 p.m. same night exercised night quarters. Next morning we got under weigh and cleared ship for action, expending half-quarter's ammunition, returning in the afternoon to our buoy in Wellington.

August 7th.—Left Wellington, and after a smart run, picked up the Harbour Master at 3 p.m. on the 8th, and proceeded into inner harbour, Lyttleton, where we made fast to buoys.

While lying here we gave usual monthly general leave to each watch. Those on board were generally employed in exercising boats under oars and sail.

August 26th.— Left and carried out cannon tube practice, then shaped our course for Wellington, where we arrived on the 27th.

August 29th.—This was indeed our black day, as our whaler was swamped in a squall, and two men, A. T. Willett and F. Simpkin, were drowned; and other fatalities would have happened had not H. Phipps, L.S., gallantly dived in to the rescue.

September 8th.—Each day since the accident to the whaler our boats have been dragging for the bodies. On the ist we recovered the body of Willett, who was buried the next day with full naval honours. We have given up all hopes of Simpkin. At 9.5 a.m. we left for a full speed trial.

September 10th.—Exercised small arm companies in forenoon, and arrived at Auckland at 6.40 p.m., where we found the " Mildura" at anchor.

September 11th.—Went outside with " Mildura" to carry out prize firing and exercise long distance signalling. This being completed, we went to Auckland for mails and stores, picking up " Mildura" again at Pehe Matawha Bay.

September 13th.—After more firing went into Auckland at 5.45 p.m. and anchored.

September 14th.—Left again, and after a very rough passage reached Wellington on the 17th.

September 18th. — Landed ship's company fully equipped for route marching.

September 20th.—Coaled ship, taking in 105 tons.

September 21st.—While unmooring, port cable carried away, so had to send down divers to recover anchor and cable, which they succeeded in doing.

September 23rd.—Arrived at Port Chalmers, where we spent a few days, our time being occupied in testing boats for buoyancy.

September 30th.—Weighed anchor by hand, and proceeded to sea. Weather foggy, so that we had to sound continuously on our way to Lyttleton, which place we reached next day, and made fast to a buoy in the inner harbour.

While here, we gave general leave to each watch and also exercised landing parties, leaving on Monday, October 7th, for Queen Charlotte Sound, which place we reached next day at 5.20 a.m.; but at 8 a.m. again left for target practice, after which we proceeded to Wellington, and anchored at 9 p.m. The next few days were spent principally in running torpedoes and cannon tube practice, and on the 18th, after drawing stores from " Ringarooma," we left for Kawa Kawa Roads, arriving thereon the 20th, when some ten Maories came on board to divine service. At 8 p.m. we weighed and proceeded.

October 21st. — Anchored at Opitiki, and exercised man and arm boats, then proceeded to Whale Island, where we anchored at 5.30 p.m.

This island is 1,667 feet high, one and a half miles long, and three quarters of a mile wide. It affords splendid shelter for ships from gales. Goats are very numerous, but fresh water scarce. Captain and officers visited boiling springs.

October 22nd.—Left and proceeded to Mangourie Tauranga. At 11.50 a.m. we endeavoured to weigh anchor, but cable carried away, so dropped other anchor and sent divers away to look for lost one.

October 29th.—Each day since last entry has been spent in trying to recover lost anchor, but owing to tide and the rocky bottom, have been unable to do so until today, when divers shackled a wire to fluke of anchor and we got it up.

October 31st.—Weighed, and proceeded to Auckland, where we anchored the next morning at 5.50, and at once commenced to coal ship, taking in 100 tons.

November 2nd.—Proceeded to sea, where we carried out target practice, expending half-quarter's ammunition, then run for Lyttleton, anchoring in the inner harbour on the 6th; gave general leave to each watch.

November 11th.—Coaled ship, taking in 180 tons.

November 16th.—Experienced a severe shock of earthquake which lasted four minutes.

November 18th.—Left for Akaroa, where we found the " Ringarooma" and arranged for a galley race. Unfortunately the " Ringarooma's" galley capsized, but happily there were no casualties.

November 22nd.—Cleared ship for action; then received ammunition from H.M.S. " Ringarooma," and in the evening gave an entertainment on shore.

The entertainment given by the Minstrel Troupe of H.M.S. " Archer" in aid of the regatta funds took place on Friday evening in the Oddfellows Hall, and was thoroughly successful, a very pleasant evening being spent by all present. There was a very good attendance, and, financially, the concert was a success. The gallery was hung with flags and the piano was draped with a Union Jack. The first part of the programme consisted of a Christey Minstrel show, the costumes of all the performers being unique and intensely amusing. The proceedings began with that well-known chorus, " De old banjo," followed by a song by Kempton, " To-night's the night." Then comic songs were sung by Hammond, Hawkes, and Judge. Clemson sung " A little more cider too," and Littlejohn chose that pretty coon song, " Hello, me baby," and scored a decided success.

The interlocutor was Lieutenant Stewart, and the comic business was highly amusing, provoking roars of laughter. Tambo's intricate proof, that he was his own grandfather, was especially appreciated. The first part concluded with Gatti's " Good-night." Besides the piano, the songs were accompanied by two banjos and a mandoline, played by members of the troupe.

The second part of the programme opened with a banjo duet. Townley then sung " Star of Bethlehem" with exceedingly good effect, and was recalled. For an encore he sang " Let me like a soldier fall," and in both he proved himself the possessor of considerable vocal ability. The character song, " Fancy I'm off the earth," was well rendered by Littlejohn, and was deservedly encored. He was followed by Lieutenant Stewart, whose song, " Nothing New," was evidently his own composition, the sameness of life being bitterly objected to. He was heartily applauded, and so also was Lieut. Lewis, who sang " The Admiral's broom" with much spirit. Townley sang " Look Back," and was as successful as in his previous number. Clemson, in his " I'm the Plumber," was very amusing. A stump speech was given by Kempton, and Mr. Sorrell, of Christchurch, who was a visitor on board H.M.S. " Archer," kindly helped in the entertainment by singing Pinsuti's " The King is Coming," and Blumenthal's " My Queen." Both songs were admirably rendered, and were immensely enjoyed by all present. At the conclusion, the Mayor thanked Lieut. Stewart and his men for the trouble they had taken, and " God save the King" was sung. Special credit is due to Mrs. G. Armstrong, who admirably played the accompaniments during the evening.

November 25th.—Left in company with " Ringarooma," and at 9.10 dropped towing target for cannon tube practice. Practice over we proceeded to Lyttleton and made fast in inner harbour.

November 29th.—Coaled ship, taking in 35 tons. Antarctic ship " Discovery" came in and went alongside pier.

December 1st.—Our relief on the New Zealand station —H.M.S. " Lizard"—arrived.

December 2nd.—Slipped buoys and proceeded to sea to carry out a full speed trial.

December 9th.—After a very rough passage, during which we arranged to carry out both cannon tube and target practice, we sighted South Heads, Sydney, at 7 a.m. this morning, and made fast to No. 5 buoy at 8.30 a.m. Ships in port, " Katoomba" (S.O.), " Sparrow," " Torch," and " Karrakatta."

December 10th.—Slipped buoys, and entered Sutherland Dock for a general overhaul.

December 21st.—After being thoroughly overhauled and painted, we left dock at 9.30 a.m., assisted by the tugs " Lena" and " President," and proceeded to Garden Island.

December 25th.—Christmas Day. Ship's company attended divine service at Dockyard Church, after which Captain and officers went round the mess-decks, which were tastefully decorated. In the afternoon, Mr. J. Shearton gave a tea to men of " Archer," " Katoomba," and " Sparrow," at the Royal Naval House, Sydney, also to the American transport " Celtic," and a German man-o'-war, which proved a great success, the evening being devoted to songs, etc.

December 30th.—Cast off from Garden Island, and in company with H.M.S. " Sparrow," left for Newcastle, New South Wales.

December 31st.—Experienced very heavy squall from the north during the morning, but by the evening the wind had veered right round, and it was blowing hard from the south.

January 1st, 1902.—Newcastle annual regatta was held to-day, in which our boats took part and won several prizes.

January 5th (Sunday).—The usual routine has been observed until to-day, when we prepared for sea with the intention of leaving early on the morrow; but, owing to the bad weather, our departure was delayed till Tuesday, when, at 4.10 a.m., in company with the " Sparrow," we slipped our buoys, and as soon as clear of the harbour, dropped targets and carried out cannon-tube practice and heavy gun firing; after which we proceeded to Sydney, where we arrived at 7.30 p.m. and secured alongside Garden Island.

January 10th.—Coal lighters came alongside at 7 a.m., and we at once commenced coaling. We took in a total of 210 tons, and finished at 10.45 p.m.

January 12th.—At 5 p.m. we slipped our buoy and proceeded to sea for a coal-testing trial.

January 14th.—Very rough weather.

January 15th.—Weather better. At 7.25 p.m. we picked up Harbour Master, and at 8 p.m. anchored at Hobart Town, Tasmania. " Karrakatta" in harbour.

January 17th (Friday).—Had a morning at general quarters. " Karrakatta" arrived with mails.

January 19th (Sunday).—Mustered by open list in forenoon, and at 4.30 p.m. prepared for sea, leaving at 6.30 the next morning in company with " Sparrow." At 10.25 we sighted " Royal Arthur," " Pylades," " Torch," " Mildura," and " Phoebe." Saluted " Royal Arthur" —Commander-in-Chief—with thirteen guns. At 12.45 p.m. we anchored at Flinders Bay, where we exercised searchlights in the evening.

January 21st.—At 8.30 a.m. we left Flinders Bay, and picked up fleet to carry out manoeuvres, at the same time making our way towards Hobart.

On the 22nd a court-martial was held on board the " Royal Arthur." At noon a twenty-one gun salute was fired in honour of the King's accession.

Thursday, 23rd.—At 8 a.m. we dressed ship in honour of the King's accession. The day was kept as a general holiday, being the date of the annual regatta, in which we competed, the races resulting as follows:—

Whalers' Race.—" Archer " and " Torch," dead-heat, " Torch" 3rd.

Six-oared, Gigs.—" Royal Arthur," ist; " Phoebe," 2nd; " Royal Arthur," 3rd.

Stokers.—" Phœbe," 1st; " Karrakatta," 2nd; " Archer," 3rd.

Marines.—" Mildura," 1st; " Royal Arthur," 2nd.

Fifth Race: " Phoebe," 1st; " Wallaroo," 2nd.

Daymen.—" Phoebe," 1st; " Royal Arthur," 2nd; " Mildura," 3rd.

Seventh Race: " Phœbe," 1st; " Mildura," 2nd.

Duty Whalers.—" Mildura, 1st; " Archer," 2nd.

Cutters.—" Karrakatta," 1st; " Torch," 2nd; " Wallaroo," 3rd.

Whalers.—" Royal Arthur," 1st; " Phoebe," 2nd.

Excused Daymen.—" Royal Arthur," 1st; " Phoebe." 2nd; " Mildura," 3rd.

Duty Cutters.—" Royal Arthur, 1st; " Wallaroo," 2nd; " Torch," 3rd.

Skiffs.—" Phoebe," 1st; " Royal Arthur," 2nd.

Officers.—" Mildura, 1st; Hagship, 2nd; " Archer," 3rd.

All-comers.—" Karrakatta," 1st; " Phœbe," 2nd; Flagship, 3rd.

Sixteenth Race: " Royal Arthur," 1st; " Karrakatta," 2nd; " Mildura," 3rd.

The usual excitement prevailed throughout the day.

January 27th.—Landed small arms company in conjunction with squadron for review before the Governor of Tasmania.

January 25th.—At 9.45 a.m. Rear-Admiral Beaumont arrived on board to carry out inspection. Mustered by open list. Exercised fire and collision stations, abandon ship, etc., during the forenoon, and after dinner cleared for action and exercised general quarters, man and arm ship and boats; also muster bags. At 4.30 p.m. RearAdmiral left, and we set to work to replace gear.

On the 30th the " Pylades" left for Sydney to pay off, and as she left we gave her three cheers.

January 31st.—Coaled ship, taking in 85 tons; after which we cleaned ship and settled down to the usual harbour routine.

H.M.S. "ARCHER'S" ALL COMERS. FLEET REGATTA, AUCKLAND,
NEW ZEALAND.

February 7th.—Left at 7.50 a.m., and as soon as clear dropped target and carried out cannon-tube practice; after which we ran torpedoes in Wedge Bay, and then proceeded for Port Arthur, where we found the " Torch" at anchor. This place is an old convict settlement, and many of our fellows visited the ruins of the old convict prison.

On the 8th, in company with the " Sparrow," we left for Launceston, where, after a pleasant trip, we arrived on the 10th. Launceston lies up the Tamar River, and the scenery on both sides is beautiful. As soon as we were made fast we started painting ship, and had a general clean up.

Thursday, 13th.—At 8 a.m. dressed ship, masthead flags. Painted ship. At 12 noon six boats left ship to compete in Launceston Regatta, the first race (in which only boats from the " Archer" competed) resulting as follows:—Seamen in galley, 1st; seamen in cutter, 2nd; stokers in whalers, 3rd; idlers in gig, 4th. In the next race—copper punts, Darktown crews—" Archer" beat " Sparrow" for first place, but the latter was best dressed. The skiff race (sailing) was won by the " Sparrow," " Archer" being second. At 8 p.m. a tugof-war was held at Westwood Park, between " Archer" and Launceston Fire Brigade, which resulted in a win for the latter team.

On the 14th, painting ship and boats. Next day, exercised fire stations at 7.30 a.m.

Sunday, 16th.—Captain mustered ship's company by the ledger. At 10 a.m., ship's company attended divine service on shore, returning at 12.45 p.m.

Monday, 17th.—Painting ship. Replaced gear the following day, and prepared for sea.

Wednesday, 19th.—At 8.20 a.m., slipped from piles and turned ship, assisted by tug " Tarrina," and at 8.44 proceeded down Tamar River.

February 21st.—Sighted " Torch"; and at 11 a.m. anchored at Port Fairy, Victoria, where, in the afternoon, in conjunction with " Torch" and " Sparrow," we held a regatta, and in the evening a concert was given in the Botanical Gardens.

February 24th.—Landed field and machine guns for firing. Daily we were exercised at various drills, and on the evening of the 25th, a concert was given at the Drill Hall by members of the minstrel troups of " Archer," " Torch," and " Sparrow," a very enjoyable evening being spent, the men afterwards being entertained to supper by the citizens of Port Fairy.

February 25th.—At 1.30 a.m. left and commenced a full-speed steam trial which, proving satisfactory, we made our way to Port Adelaide, which we reached about noon on March 3rd.

March 7th.—Coaled ship, taking in 210 tons. A pleasant time was spent here, the days being devoted to various drills and the evenings to sing-songs, etc.

On the 19th we slipped buoy and proceeded down river to carry out our half-quarterly practice with heavy guns, and then proceeded to Wallaroo. At this place there are large smelting works, visible from the sea, and the fires being constantly alight, make good leading lights by night.

March 22nd.—We left Wallaroo for Port Augusta, which we reached the same day. No man-o'-war had visited this place for several years, so that our visit was quite an event, and the whole populace turned out to welcome us. We laid here until the 24th, the ship being thrown open to visitors during our stay. On leaving, we proceeded to Port Pirie, a distance of 37 miles, where the ship was again thrown open to visitors, and a great number of children came on board, who, judging from their expressions of delight, enjoyed themselves immensely: in every mess could be seen some fifty children—singing, reciting, and doing sums, to the great edification of the " mucks." In my mess, one fellow was trying to do some sewing, with about twenty girls helping him, all trying to have a turn at the machine handle at one and the same time. In another mess our Quartermaster-Sergeant was offering a capribbon to the girl who could sing the best, and as they came from two or three different schools in Port Pirie and suburbs, the competition was very keen amongst them. Our ship's goat was a great pet with everyone who came on board. At 6 p.m., when it was time for the visitors to depart, the ship's company and school teachers had a rather difficult task in getting the children to leave, as they were reluctant to go; but at last they were all out, and we again settled ourselves down to what proved to be a hard day's work. In the evening the Captain and officers gave an address at the Town Hall, the Captain being escorted there by the town band.

Wednesday, 26th.—At 5.30 a.m., prepared for sea, proceeding- from wharf at 6.10 a.m. Cleaned ship, etc.

March 27th.—Out target, and Acting Captains of guns had some heavy gun practice; after which we anchored at Eastern Cove, Kangaroo Island, for the night, leaving next morning for Port Victor. Here we had a grand reception, the residents sending off about 15 cwt. of fruit of all descriptions for the ship's company.

Our stay here was short but pleasant, and on the 29th we left for Melbourne, coaling on our way at Victoria. We reached Melbourne on April 1st, where we moored ship and commenced to paint outside. On the 11th we unmoored and left for Sydney, carrying out cannon-tube and torpedo practice as soon as we were clear of the harbour.

April 14th.—We arrived at Sydney and made fast to No. 5 buoy; and at 7.30 the next morning a coal lighter came alongside and we commenced coaling, taking in 205 tons; then made preparation for annual course of musketry.

May 6th.—Since last entry, musketry parties have landed daily, and we have now commenced to clean holds, etc., preparatory to drawing: stores.

May 12th.—H.M.S. " Dart" went in dock, and " Penguin " shifted berth to No. 4 buoy.

May 19th.—Got under weigh and proceeded to sea to carry out heavy gun prize firing, which occupied our time till the 21st, when we returned to Sydney

May 25th.—S.S. " Gorrowa" arrived with His Excellency the Governor of New South Wales on board. At 4.45 p.m. we slipped from our buoy and proceeded to sea, where we exercised at cannon-tube practice.

May 28th.—Very rough weather; ship rolling heavily, so we set fore and aft sail to steady her.

June 1st.—Sighted land, bearing N. 6o° lat. At 1.40 p.m. on the 2nd, made our way to Tiri Tiri, and were informed that peace had been proclaimed in South Africa—a signal which inspired the following lines:—

PROCLAMATION OF PEACE.

Ring out those merry joy-bells, and let all working cease,
For Britain has this day proclaimed an honest peace;
And the flag the nations all respect and Britain's sons adore,
Now proudly floats in Africa, o'er the Briton and the Boer.

That dear old flag's a token of manhood's equal right,
Regardless of his colour, the black man and the white:
The weak and strong, the right and wrong, will ever get fair
play,
For there's not a man called " Uitlander" in Africa to-day.

All honour to Lord Roberts and Kitchener, the brave,
And the heroes, whom the nations mourn, that fill a soldier's
grave;
And the name of Baden Powell revered will ever be,
Like Nelson of Trafalgar, the hero of the sea.

The brave sons of Zelandia, when serving at the front,
On mountain, veldt, or kopje, have borne the battles' brunt;
And facing with the " handy man" the mauser bullets' hail,
And, like their predecessors, were never known to quail.

Australia's sons of the Empire, and Canadian volunteers,
Shared honours with the Gordons and the Dublin Fusiliers,
Daring Devons and Welshmen, while the shots around them
fly,
For that gallant combination were there to do or die.

Now Britain has accepted the olive branch of peace,
And resting on her laurels, may amity increase
Among the sons of Africa, and reach from shore to shore,
Till all are joined in brotherhood—the Briton and the Boer.

Shortly after we anchored at Auckland, New Zealand, and dressed ship in honour of proclamation of peace.

June 3rd.—Dressed ship rainbow fashion. At 4 p.m. a Japanese man-o'-war arrived and anchored.

June 4th.—Japanese ship saluted British ensign with twenty-one guns, a shore battery returning the salute. At 8.50 a.m. another Japanese ship arrived.

June 7th.—Cadets from Japanese ships paid us a visit and were shown round.

June 10th.—Got under weigh and, in company with the " Ringarooma," proceeded to sea. As soon as we were outside we dropped target for cannon-tube practice, after which we expended quarter's allowance of ammunition from heavy guns, and at 5 p.m. anchored in Matawalia Bay, where we exercised night quarters at 11 p.m.

June 11th.—In company with " Ringarooma," proceeded to Rangitato to sail boats for Brassey Cup, but the races had to be abandoned owing to lack of wind, so we went on to Auckland, where we anchored at 3.15 p.m.

June 12th.—Went into dry dock and employed all hands in scraping and cleaning ship's bottom. While here one of our E. R. A.'s, Holford, tripped over a hawser and fell to the bottom of the dock, sustaining terrible injuries, and was taken to hospital.

June 18th.—Left dock and proceeded to anchorage, and had another try for the Brassey Cup, but again it had to be postponed owing to lack of wind. This was rough on us, as our boat was leading by a mile and a half; but next day we had better luck with wind, and after a very exciting race our 2nd cutter won.

June 20th.—Coaled ship, taking in 235 tons.

June 24th.—All hands busy preparing for Coronation illuminations. In the evening a concert was given on shore at the Federal Hall by our minstrel troupe, and everything passed off splendidly.

June 25th.—Received the following telegram from Admiral: " Coronation postponed on account of King's illness. The orders in connection therewith are canceiled." This news was received with deep regret by everyone on board.

June 30th.—Got under weigh and proceeded to sea.

July 1st.—Sighted a vessel in distress. She had encountered very heavy weather, and had lost main and mizzen-mast, also fore royal-mast. In reply to our signal asking whether she needed assistance, she answered: " Yes; and a doctor." Our doctor at once went on board, and we took her in tow and proceeded for Russell. Further inquiries proved her to be the ship " Ardencraig" of Glasgow, of 1,969 registered tonnage, bound from New Caledonia to Rotterdam with nickel ore. Her crew were in a sorry plight with fever and ague, but by 3 p.m. we had arrived at Russell, where we slipped her and she anchored.

July 2nd.—We left Russell and carried out torpedo practice under weigh, also quarterly firing from heavy guns.

July 8th.—After a rather rough voyage we anchored at Suva, Fiji Islands. Here we found H.M.S. " Pylades," which left the same day for Unkaologa.

July 9th.—Coaled ship, taking' in 180 tons; after which we went alongside wharf to water ship, leaving Suva again on the 11th for Muttway Nounitj, Gilbert Island, reaching there on the 18th, after a somewhat tedious passage owing to these waters being uncharted.

August 12th.—Since last entry our boats have been away daily surveying, which is hard, laborious work, but we did not mind that, as we knew how necessary it was that these waters should be properly charted, owing to the innumerable rocks and shoals. These islands— Gilbert, or Kingsmill Archipelago, as they are sometimes called—lie between the parallels 23' S. and 3½° N. latitude and the meredians of 172½° and 177' East longitude. There are sixteen groups of these islands, Nonuitj being one of them. British protectorate was proclaimed over these islands by H.M.S. " Royalist," May 27th, 1892, and are now governed by independent native rulers.

During our stay at Nonuiti the weather was very hot, with sharp and heavy showers, which usually disturbed the ship's company about 10 p.m. The only water obtainable is brackish, but the natives use it. There is an abundance of cocoa-nuts, from the milk of which the natives make a strong intoxicating drink. The milk is buried for two or three days and then drank. On an average four lives a week are lost through this habit of imbibing the potent liquor, for after drinking it, the natives are overcome by a tendency to sleep, and lay down on the marshy ground, to be heard of no more after the tide has risen. Apart from this, I must say they are a very intelligent race, and were a great help to us whilst surveying, being employed in staking irons for marks in the various patches and shoals, under the chief of police, Tongo, a native of Fiji. The London Missionary Society and the Roman Catholic Mission are well to the fore.

August 15th.—To-day we were busy sounding continuously for position of Callura Rock, but could find no signs of it, and after continuing search for a few days, we proceeded to Suva, Fiji Islands, where we met " Royal Arthur," " Mildura," " Pylades," and a French man-o'-war.

August 23rd.—Coaled ship, taking in 181 tons.

DESCRIPTION OF FIJI.

The Fiji Islands comprise, besides numerous islets and reefs, 155 islands, containing a total area of 7,500 square miles. About a hundred of these islands are inhabited. These islands were formally proclaimed a British colony on September 1st, 1875.

In 1789 Lieutenant Bligh, after the mutiny of the " Bounty," passed one of these islands (supposed to be Moala) in his celebrated boat voyage to Timor.

The first chart of the Fiji Islands was made in 1827. These islands consist partly of volcanic elevation surrounded by fringing coral reefs, between which and the land can be found very fine anchorages. The tops of many of the mountains have distinct craters, but their activity has long ceased. Hot springs occur at Viti Levu, or Ngau at Wainunu, and Savu Savu.

The government of the Fiji Islands, prior to the cession of the group to Great Britain as a British colony, was carried on under the celebrated and most powerful of the Fijian chiefs, Thakaombau (Evil to Bau); but civil strife was never quite absent from amongst his subjects, except during the latter years of his recognised supremacy by the other chiefs, first amongst whom may be mentioned the Roko Tiu of Lau; Henry Maagu, the once powerful Tongan chief, who for many years disputed the supremacy with Thakaombau. The present Government consists of a Governor (also Governor of Western Pacific), representing His Majesty King Edward VII., with the usual officials attached to a Crown colony. The seat of government, formerly at Levuka, in Ovalaw Island, is (since 1882) at Suva, in Viti Levu Island.

In 1897 the population of the islands was estimated at 123,941, including that of Rotumah, comprising 99,773 native Fijians and 3,401 Europeans, the remainder being Indians, Polynesians, half-castes, and Chinese. The natives of Fiji are a dark-coloured, frizzly-haired, bearded race, reproducing in the East the tall and muscular bodies of the finest of the Western Papuans, but much superior to them both in regularity of features and in degree of civilisation. They exhibit a considerable amount of intermixture with the brown Polynesians of Tonga and Samoa, who long since established colonies in Fiji, and have, to some extent, modified the language and customs of the indigenes. Yet they remain undoubted Melanesians, and differ from their Maori neighbours not only in their scanty dress, which is similar to that of the New Hebrideans, but in using the bow and arrow and in making pottery, both arts being foreign to the true Polynesians. The Fijians are cleanly in their habits, and very particular about their personal appearance.

UPPER REACHES OF THE WANGANUI RIVER

In no place has missionary effort been more successful or its fruits more apparent than in Fiji. Most of the inhabitants are Christians. The natives of Suva are noted for their catamaran sailing, with which at times they attain the high speed of 15 knots an hour. Here Rear-Admiral Beaumont and staff had the pleasure of sailing in one, the rest following in his wake. The natives, when they come alongside, will give you their native war dance, free of charge, which is very neatly and cleverly executed.

ON SURVEY WORK AT NONUITI.

Readers of Stevenson can, from his vivid writings, quickly conjure up visions of the sunny Pacific, waving palms, nut-brown maids, savage fights on coral islands, head-hunting expeditions, quaint costumes, and a hundred things of like interest. A change is rapidly coming over these seas: fights grow fewer and rarer, the nut-brown maids are as comely as ever, but they are clothing themselves now in cotton in preference to shells and flowers, and realise that men must work and women need no longer weep under the beneficent sway of the British flag. Excepting the Solomon Islands, schooners and steamers visit at regular intervals all the islands of the Pacific, and other craft are always to be seen, so one realises that, even in these dolce far niente climes, life is both real and earnest.

An uneventful passage (except that one realises it can blow, even in the Pacific), and we arrive at Nonuiti, at which place we stay a month to carry out our survey. We anchored for one night outside the lagoon, about a mile and a half off from the principal village.

Surveying duty, I need not say, is both an important and difficult task, requiring many days of careful work, undertaken on the equatorial line, with an average continual temperature of 90° F. both by day and night. It is difficult to credit that the portion of this reef on which the people live is not more than eight feet above the level of the sea at high water, and the island is nowhere more than two or three hundred yards wide, and covered to the water's edge with cocoanut trees, the soil consisting of pulverised coral on which hardly anything else will grow.

On this thin ribbon of land, which is about twentymiles long, with many breaks across, some 3,000 people live, their food consisting of cocoanuts, fish, and a native vegetable called " tituc."

Too much praise cannot be bestowed on the Government of this place. A fine stone-bordered road runs the whole length of the island; sanitation is well looked after; hospitals are handy to every few villages, which are kept tidy and neat by constables appointed by the English Commissioner.

Like most of the islands of the Pacific, the scourge of leprosy prevails on this one. There are not many cases, but those poor beings who suffer from this awful disease are kept apart in sequestered districts, the rules being very strict regarding them.

What a model of contentment for the inhabitants of more favoured countries these people present. True, they are not much enlightened by education, still they are contented and happy. No longer are tribal quarrels permitted, nor head-hunting excursions indulged in; in fact, no lethal weapons are allowed to be in the possession of the islanders. The costume of bygone days (or, rather, lack of it) has given place to a modest costume of Manchester cottons, and the tourists who repair here for curios, will leave sadly disappointed. There is a prison of rather large dimensions in the principal village, for men and women; the chief offence appears to be a rather lax idea of the marriage vow.

Before the advent of the English Commissioner the men did little or no work, while the women did everything. Now the men have to work two days a week for the Government, the rest of the week, under superintendence, for themselves, Sunday being strictly observed. The women of the island are no longer permitted to do the work which really appertains to man.

Many of the men have been over to Queensland, Australia, returning with sufficient means to afford many comforts for themselves and families which were unknown before.

Altogether, one may say there are many unhappier, unhealthier lives than those lived by the people of this island.

Our work is complete, and we leave the island for other further police visits, whilst other ships of a like class will shortly re-visit the scene of our former labours here.

August 25th.—Received signal from " Royal Arthur" to proceed to Sydney, and at 2.30 p.m. we left.

August 26th.—Stopped engines, got out target, and exercised cannon-tube practice; also expended quarter's ammunition.

September 2nd.—The weather for the past few days has been fine, and usual drills have been carried out daily. At 9.30 this morning we got target out, and captains and acting captains of guns had, firing practice during the forenoon. In the evening we anchored at Watson Bay, Sydney. The next morning we proceeded into Sydney Harbour, and made fast alongside Garden Island. " Karrakatta," " Katoomba," and " Penguin" were in port, also the U.S. transport " Celtic." The next day the " Royal Arthur" arrived, and made fast to No. 1 buoy. We were busy returning surveying gear to store, cleaning down aloft, painting ship, etc., which duties kept us employed until Saturday, 20th inst., after which we carried on usual ship routine, also sending landing parties to Garden and Spectacle Islands.

September 22nd.—" Karrakatta" sailed to carry out coal trial, and " Wallaroo" arrived.

While laying alongside Garden Island parties are landed daily, both forenoon and afternoon, for work on shore, and we were no exception to the rule; but on October 14th we altered this routine by commencing our annual musketry practice at Randwick Rifle Range, part of the men going to the range, the others drawing stores.

October 22nd.—Having partly finished our musketry course, we left to carry out a steam trial, during which we attained a speed of 14 knots, and returned to harbour the same afternoon, reporting: " All satisfactory."

October 23rd.—A part of ship's company left for the range, the remainder coaling ship, takiner in 116 tons.

October 30th.—Slipped from buoy and proceeded to sea.

October 31st.—Exercised general quarters and carried out cannon-tube practice. In the evening, let go both life-buoys and exercised " man overboard."

November 1st.—General quarters, and fired shell at Cliff Island, making good practice.

November 2nd.—Anchored at Melbourne, off Town Pier. " Royal Arthur," " Karrakatta," and " Mildura" in port. We now commenced a general overhaul of the ship, cleared out shell-room and magazines, also painted outside.

November 6th.—Received an invitation to Federal and International Exhibition.

November 10th.—Dressed ship in honour of King's birthday, and in the afternoon prepared for sea.

November 11th.—Left in company with " Royal Arthur" and " Mildura," and when clear proceeded independently for full-speed and three-fifths trial.

November 13th.—Anchored in Jervis Bay in a thick fog.

November 14th.—" Royal Arthur" left to carry out prize firing, and we followed her for the purpose of acting as marker, returning to anchorage at night.

November 17tn.—" Koyal Arthur," " Phoebe," and " Karrakatta" left for cannon-tube and Whitehead practice. Vice-Admiral Beaumont came on board to inspect ship, and found everything satisfactory. In the evening we left to join other ships.

November 18th.—Ordered to follow squadron to Sydney, arriving there at 7.25 a.m. " Royal Arthur," " Mildura," " Phoebe," " Karrakatta," " Pylades," " Sparrow," " Lizard," and " Katoomba" in port.

November 19th.—Coaled ship, taking in 174 tons.

November 22nd.—Slipped from buoy and proceeded to sea, and, in accordance with our usual custom, at once got out target and went to cannon-tube practice, also firing from 3-pounders.

November 29th.—After a rather rough voyage we reached Wellington, New Zealand, where we found the " Wallaroo" and " Torch." We only remained here a very short time, leaving again at 5 p.m. for Lyttleton, where we arrived next day.

December 1st.—Lent one C.P.O. and ten hands to Antarctic exploring vessel " Morning." At 5 a.m., left to do firing, but the sea being too rough, we returned to harbour, where we fired a royal salute, it being the Queen's birthday.

December 6th.—Each day during the past week we have sent a working party on board the " Morning," which sailed this afternoon for the South Seas on her exploring expedition, our ship's company cheering her out. A signal was made, " Wish you a pleasant voyage and safe return to which she replied: " Thank you. Good-bye."

December 14th.—We prepared for sea, and left next morning, running into a fog shortly after, and had to stop ship; but at noon it cleared, so we carried out cannon-tube practice, afterwards anchoring at Akaroa. In the evening, burned searchlights.

December 16th.—At 9.m., Magazine and shell-room parties at drill. SS. " Rotomahana" arrived at Lyttleton with excursionists to witness regatta held at Akaroa, New Zealand Anniversary Day. At 1.30 p.m., all boats away sailing. Darktown crew landed and had a good reception. Before landing, we went alongside SS. " Cygnet"; passed a few jokes, and a few songs were given, to the great delight of everyone present. After leaving the " Cygnet," we went alongside SS. " Rotomahana," whose passengers were more interested in the Darktown crew than in the races that were under weigh at the time. A few photos were taken of the crew, for " curios," as the passengers said. After this we landed " Admiral Prog," Dinah leading the way, followed by his officials, comprising our musician (who had Sunbeam Lou all to himself on the cornet), Tim the corner man, the Apothecary and Bunting, and last, if not least, young " Wiggie." Of course, the usual programme was gone through until Bunting ran away with the big drum belonging to the Lyttleton Marine Band, and a full steam chase commenced, but they soon brought him to earth. The band regained their drum, and the crew resumed their sport, until the steamboat appeared and took them back to the ship.

The sailing race was won by the " Archer's" cutter (leading by 1 min. 13 sees, on a 9 mile course), with " Wallaroo's " cutters second and third. In the private race with shore boats, the result was as follows:—Professor Scott, ist; " Archer's" galley, 2nd; Mr. Poole's " Emir," 3rd.

December 17th.—At 9.30 am. exercised all boats under oars and sail.

December 18th.—Weighed at 9 a.m. and proceeded. Exercised general quarters, and carried out cannon-tube practice and running torpedoes at towing target. At 1.28 p.m. anchored at Akaroa.

December 19th.—Weighed at 7.30 a.m. and proceeded. At 10.32 a.m. dropped target and exercised ammunition and shell-room parties at cannon-tube practice, which had to be abandoned owing to target sinking. Proceeded, and arrived in inner harbour, Lyttleton, at 1.42 p.m.; anchored and secured to buoys.

December 20th.—Exercised fire stations, cleaning ship, etc.

December 21st (Sunday).—Ship's company went ashore and attended divine service at St. Matthew's Church.

December 22nd.—Exercised general quarters, collision stations, etc., and landed field guns' crews for drill.

December 23rd.—Exercised magazine and shell-room parties, cleaned deck, etc. Next day, some men went ashore to get green stuff for decorations. The Lyttleton Naval Volunteers made the ship's company a very acceptable present of geese, green peas, and new potatoes, which were greatly appreciated.

December 25th (Christmas Day).—The messes were tastefully decorated, appropriate mottoes being displayed in conspicuous positions. After divisions, the Captain and officers, with a party of friends, inspected the mess decks and passed compliments as to their tasty and graceful appearance. After their tour of inspection, the officers and their friends were visited in the ward-room by Admiral " Prog-von-Trog," attended by his A.D.C., Sergeant-Major " Ginger Blue," who afterwards made a tour of the lower deck, being entertained at each mess Music and dancing were indulged in till dinner time, after which the cricket team landed. They returned on board defeated, an occurrence which was attributed to the scorer, " Tintax," that individual having spent the best part of the afternoon laying in the mud, with his head reposing on the bag with the bails, stumps, etc. An enjoyable evening ended Christmas Day, 1902.

December 30th.—At 9.30 a.m., exercised port battery at divisional drill (6-inch), exercised magazine and shellroom men; at 4.30 p.m., exercised all boats under oars. In the evening gave concert at Oddfellows Hall to the officers and men of the Lyttleton Naval Volunteers, including their wives and children, in return for present to the ship's company. I must say the concert proved a great success. At the interval, tea and such like was passed round, and I can honestly say that everyone present were satisfied with the way in which everything was carried out. At the conclusion of the concert, Lieut. Stewart thanked them one and all for their prompt attendance, and hoped that this would not be the last time that the " Archer" and the Lyttleton Naval Volunteers would be together to enjoy a song and a pint. Lieut. Woods, of the Lyttleton Naval Volunteers responded, thanking them in return.

December 31st.—At 9.30 a.m., exercised small arm men, and at 1.30 p.m., landed field guns' crew for drill. In the evening a concert was again given to the officers, ship's company and friends of H.M.S. " Archer," who rolled up in large numbers at the Oddfellows Hall, from all parts. This went off very satisfactorily, and was much appreciated by all. Never had a minstrel troupe been more successful at Lyttleton than this one; and great praise was given to our interlocutor, Lieut.Stewart, for making this such a success.

January 1st, 1903.—At 8 a.m. dressed ship in honour of the Lyttleton Regatta. This day was kept as a holiday both on shore and aboard. The result of races and sports was as follows:—

BUSH SCENE. NORTH ISLAND, NEW ZEALAND

Pulling Race.—All service boats with time allowance: Galley, 1st; 2nd cutter, 2nd; whaler (stokers), 3rd. The 1st cutter came in 3rd, but was disqualified.

Sailing Race.—Private rigs with merchant boats and private yachts: " Archer's" galley, 1st; " Archer's" ist cutter, 2nd; ship Cupica's boat, 3rd. The galley won the race on time allowance.

There was also sport from the ship, which was witnessed by thousands of spectators from the jetty.

Tub Race.—H. Chaney, A. B., won this race, being the only one to go round the course properly. This race caused much amusement, as the tubs had a piece of wood resembling a horse, and the man had to ride it round the course, propelling by his feet, but the amusing part of it was that no one could mount without going under, and once the tub turned over, it was very difficult to right it again.

The greasy pole caused as much sport as the tub race, rigged from our port gangway was a large boom with a box with two ducks inside. This box was detached from the pole by one of the competitors, and a general chase began, but the lucky man was Wainwright (stoker), this man securing one poor luckless duck. The other duck, more lively, afforded a good swim to the men, but alas, they had to return, owing to the duck disappearing amongs the piles of the jetty.

The Darktown crew went away with a shore boat rigged out like the ship, and dressed rainbow fashion. After leaving the ship we laid off, fired a royal salute, and visited the craft then in harbonr, to whom a few songs were given, and jokes passed. After landing and approaching London Road, we were under weigh with music and songs, when a large crowd attracted the eyes of the crew, and for that crowd we steered. On arrival, what should be going on, but an ingenious old gentleman giving prizes to children for running. Of course, the crew wanted to join. The old gent then made a special race for us, which included some very valuable prizes, namely, 1st, Sunbeam musician, a tin trumpet; 2nd, Tim the Corner Man, electric tin motor car; 3rd, Old Waterline, a wooden gun; 4th, the Apothecary, a humming top; and then the crew marched away in triumph to the tune of " Hot time in the old town tonight." At the conclusion of the sports, the committee on board the " Cupica" came to the conclusion that in general they were very good, and presented the crew with the valuable prize of three guineas.

January 2nd.—Coaled ship, taking in 86 tons, and next day cleaned ship, also taking in stores for Campbell Islands.

January 6th.—Slipped from buoys, and proceeded to sea at 10 a.m., and shaped our course to Swan Island, which we sighted on the 8th, and at 6.30 p.m. on that date we lowered a boat, and sent an officer to visit the provision depot; the boat returning at 7.50, and reported all well.

January 9th.—Sent boat to visit depôt on Enderley Island, and proceeded to Ewing Island for same purpose. These depots are kept stocked for shipwrecked seamen who may be cast away on the islands.

January 11th.—Anchored in Perseverance Harbour, Campbell Island, and discharged stores for residents, leaving next day for Lyttleton after embarking three passengers.

January 17th.—Arrived at Lyttleton after visiting several other islets and depôts, among them Bounty Island, where we secured some splendid specimens of penguins.

January 19th.—The funeral of the late William Wales took place to-day, and out of respect to an old man-of-war's-man, who was also a Crimean veteran, a party was landed from this ship to act as coffin-bearers to the grave in the cemetery at Lyttleton. A great number of followers attended from various local bodies.

January 24th.—Slipped buoy and proceeded to sea, spending a quiet day on Sunday the 25th, and preparing ship for war on the 26th.

January 27th.—Anchored at Auckland. The " Penuin" and " Lizard" in port.

January 29th.—At 8 a.m., dressed ship in honour of Auckland Regatta. In the service sailing race, the " Archer's" 2nd cutter was 1st, whaler 2nd, and " Lizard's" cutter 3rd. In the service whalers pulling, " Lizard," 1st; " Archer," 2nd; " Penguin," 3rd. This race was lost by " Archer," owing to one man breaking his oar.

The sailing race between yachts and service boats entered private rig, in which " Archer's" galley and ist cutter competed, was postponed owing to sudden and squally weather and the yacht " Thelva" getting dismasted. While this race was on, the weather was very rough, and heavy rain fell, accompanied with thick mist. At 3.30 p.m., undressed ship on account of heavy weather.

February 5th.—Painting ship throughout. At8 p.m. an enjoyable concert was given at the Hospital at Auckland, in the presence of a large number of patients and the staff. The first portion of the programme was contributed by the capable minstrel troupe from PI. M.S. " Archer." Coon songs, dances, choruses, and lively patter, combined to make a very entertaining performance which was highly appreciated. The miscellaneous programme which completed the evening was equally successful. Dr. Collins, at the close of the performance, voiced the unanimous feeling of the audience, thanking the performers for their enjoyable concert. They were then entertained to supper in the board-room, which was appreciated by all. The men of H.M.S. " Archer," assisted by the hospital porters, had erected a very prettily decorated stage for the concert, which was arranged by Mrs. Collins. Much praise is due to Mr. W. Purrell, who accompanied the troupe's songs, and helped to make it so much a success.

February 11th.—Drawing stores and provisions, and painting. At last, the " Archer" has been robbed of her yacht-like appearance by a coat of dull grey paint. How different she looks; people on shore express surprise at her sombre appearance.

February 12th.—Coal lighter came alongside at 6.15 a.m., and we started coaling, taking in 245 tons.

February 23rd.—We have been kept fairly busy since my last entry. What with sweeping and creeping, drawing stores from depot, etc., the time has passed away quickly and pleasantly. This morning we left in company with the " Wallaroo," " Lizard," and " Sparrow," and when outside, practised taking in tow.

February 24th.—Sighted " Royal Arthur," " Ringarooma," " Phoebe," and " Karrakatta," and after doing torpedo practice, joined up, the squadron proceeding to Russell, New Zealand, and anchoring.

February 25th.—Left at 9.30 a.m. in company with squadron, and had general evolutions, cleared ship for action, and fired lyddite shell at Ninepin Rock, returning to Russell at 4.45 p.m.

February 26th.—Weighed and proceeded with squadron, and exercised at steam tactics; afterwards carried out cannon-tube practice at towing targets, and then returned to anchorage.

February 27th.—Left again with squadron and proceeded single line ahead for Auckland, which place we reached at 11.30 a.m. The Admiral was very pleased with the way the squadron entered and anchored, especially as this was the first time a squadron had visited Auckland.

March 1st (Sunday).—Usual Sunday routine.

March 2nd.—Exercised out bower anchor. All boats pulled round fleet. Landed field guns' crews for drill.

March 4th.—Squadron's annual regatta. The racing resulted as follows:—

Whalers' Racing Crews.—" Lizard," ist; " Archer," 2nd; " Ringarooma," 3rd.

Gig's Racing Crew.—" Royal Arthur," 1st; " Phœbe," 2nd.

Stokers.—" Lizard," 1st; " Phoebe," 2nd; " Royal Arthur," 3rd.

Marines' Cutters.—" Royal Arthur," 1st.

Pinnaces and Launches' Racing Crews.—" Phoebe," 1st; " Wallaroo," 2nd; " Royal Arthur," 3rd.

Daymen, ex-Daymen, and Band.—" Royal Arthur," 1st; " Archer," 2nd; " Phœbe," 3rd.

Dinghy s' Racing Crews.—" Lizard," 1st; " Phœbe," 2nd; " Wallaroo," 3rd.

Whaler's Duty Crew.—" Wallaroo," 1st; " Archer,' 2nd; " Phœbe," 3rd.

Cutters' Racing Crews.—" Royal Arthur," 1st and 2nd; " Wallaroo," 3rd.

C.P.O.'s.—" Royal Arthur," 1st; " Lizard," 2nd " Wallaroo," 3rd.

Marines' Whalers.—" Archer," 1st; " Royal Arthur," 2nd; " Ringarooma," 3rd.

Cutters' Duty Crews.—" Phoebe," 1st; " Royal Arthur," 2nd; " Wallaroo," 3rd.

All Duty Creivs.—" Phoebe," 1st; " Royal Arthur," 2nd and 3rd.

Cutters' Stokers.—" Royal Arthur," 1st; " Phoebe," and; " Wallaroo," 3rd.

All Comers.—" Royal Arthur," 1st; " Archer, 2nd" " Royal Arthur," 3rd.

Officers.—" Royal Arthur," 1st and 2nd; " Penguin," 3rd.

The usual excitement attendant on the racing prevailed. In the afternoon the Akai chiefs gave a haka on board the flagship, which officers of the fleet attended.

SOME NOTES ON THE MAORIS—NEW
ZEALAND.

In every age and nation, men have been dissatisfied with their natural appearance, and have adopted various ways of improving it, which implies a general conviction of natural deficiency, and this runs through all grades of society. It is not many years ago since it was the fashion for both old and young to wear white powder on the head. This custom found general favour, even among the ladies themselves, as imparting a very aristocratic look to the wearer and additional beauty to their fair locks. The very children themselves, in polite circles, made their appearance thus ornamented. The custom also of plastering up the hair, contrary to the grain, with pomatum, to give increased elevation and dignity to its fair wearer; and that of a gentleman, with his queue or pigtail, mark, not only the age, but the feeling that the natural dignity of the human head required artificial aid to improve it, and the savage agrees with his civilised brother. Now that the custom has passed away we can see the absurdity of it. The New Zealanders have not been behind the rest of the family of man in these particulars. They gave the preference to a red colour, and plentifully anointed their heads with a mixture of ochre and oil, which certainly imparts to them a very remarkable look, the skull appearing as though it had been cleft, and was streaming down with gore. The general effect was heightened by a large tuft of albatross down, which was stuck in the lobe of each ear, and formed a fine contrast with the bright red. The substance generally used as colouring matter is the resin of the Kauri or rimu, which, when burnt, is pounded and converted to a fine powder. For this pigment a narrow pit is sunk at a little distance from a precipice, and from the face of the cliff a passage is cut to the bottom of it, over the mouth of which pieces of wood containing the resin is burnt, and the residium, falling within, is taken away by means of the passage. The uhi or instrument used for tattooing was a small chisel, made of the bone of an albatross, very narrow and sharp, which was driven by means of a small mallet (a mahoe) quite through the skin, and sometimes completely through the cheek as well, so that when a person undergoing the operation took his pipe, the smoke found its way out of the cutting. The pain was excruciating, especially in the more tender parts, and caused dreadful swellings. Only a small piece could be done at a time. The operator held in his hand a piece of muka (flax) dipped in the pigment, which he drew over the incision immediately it was made. The blood which flowed freely from the wound was constantly wiped away with a little bit of flax. The pattern was first drawn either with charcoal or scratched in with a sharp-pointed instrument. To tattoo a person fully is, therefore, a work of time, and to attempt to do too much at once endangered the life. During the time that anyone was being tattooed, all persons in the pa were tapu, until the termination of the work, lest any evil should befall them. To have fine tattooed faces was the great ambition of young men, both to render themselves attractive to the ladies and conspicuous in war; for, even if killed by the enemy, whilst the head of the untattooed were treated with indignity, and kicked on one side, those which were conspicuous by their beautiful " Moko" were carefully cut off, stuck on the turuturu—a pole with a cross on it— and then preserved, all which was highly gratifying to the survivors, and the spirits of their late possessors.

The person operated upon was stretched at full length on the ground, and to encourage him manfully to endure the pain, songs were continually sung to him. The following is one which was used on such occasions:—

He who pays well, let him be beautifully' ornamented,
But he who forgets the operator, let him be done carelessly—
Be the lines wide apart.
O hiki Tangaroa,
O hiki Tangaroa.
Strike that the chisel as it cuts along may sound,
O hiki Tangaroa.
Men do not know the skill of the operator in driving his chisel along.
O hiki Tangaroa.

This song was chiefly to remind the gentleman of the duty he owed to the operator, who, not having any professional charges, chiefly depended on the liberality of his patient, who was expected not only to feed him on the best, but to make him a very handsome present as well. And when the operator suspected that he would not be remembered, he frequently became very careless in his work, and rendered the person an object for life. Some of the Moko's are very coarsely done, while others are finished with an artist's touch, by which we are able to judge of the way they have severally paid the owner of the sounding chisel.

Whilst the males had every part of their face tattooed and thighs as well, the females had chiefly the chin and lips, although occasionally they also had their thighs and breasts and a few smaller marks on different parts of the body. There were regular rules for tattooing, and the artists always went systematically to work, beginning at one spot and gradually proceeding to another, each particular part having its distinguishing name. Thus they commence with:—

1.—Te kawe, four lines on each side of the chin.

2.—Te pukawae, six lines on each side of the chin.

3.—Nga rere hupe, six lines below the nostrils.

4.—Nga kakiri, a curved line on the cheek-bone.

5.—Nga koroaha, lines between cheek-bone and ear.

6.—Nga wakarakau, lines below the former.

7.—Nga pongiangia, the lines on each side of the lower extremity of the nose.

8.—Nga pae tarewa, the lines on the cheek-bone.

NOUMEA, NEW CALEDONIA (FRENCH)

9.—Nga rerepi and Nga ngatarewa, lines on the bridge of the nose.

10.—Nga tiwana, four lines on the forehead.

11.—Nga rewha, three lines below the eyebrows.

12.—Nga titi, lines on the centre of the forehead.

13.—Ipu rangi, lines above the former.

14.—Te tono kai, the general name for the lines on the forehead.

15.—He ngutu pu rua, both lips tattooed.

16.—Te rape, the higher part of the thighs.

17.—Te paki paki, tattooing on the seat.

18.—Te paki turi, the lower thigh.

19.—Nga tata, the adjoining part.

The following are female tattooes:—

1.—Taki taki, from the breast down.

2.—Hope hope, lines on the thighs.

3.—Waka te he, lines on the chin.

Connected with tattooing is the art of embalming. This was done in order that great warriors might show the heads of all the distinguishing chiefs they killed. But this art was not employed for that purpose alone; it enabled them to preserve the heads of those who were dear to them, and to keep those remembrances of beloved objects ever near. It was no uncommon thing to embalm in this way the head of a beloved wife or child.

To prepare them for drying was called paki paki, or popo, which signifies the taking out of the brain; they were then subjected to repeated steaming in the oven. After each steaming, the head was carefuliy wiped with the flower of the Kakaho, or reed, and every portion of flesh and brain was removed. A small thin manuka stick was thrust between the skin and bone of the nose to preserve its form. When this progress was ended, they were dried in the sun, and afterwards exposed to the smoke of their houses. One of the first things, however, was to extract the eyes and fill the sockets with flax, and then sew the lids together. These heads, thus prepared, seemed to be exempt from the attack of insects, being thoroughly impregnated with pyroligneous acid. In former days the preparation of heads was very general; they were done for sale to the Europeans, and so great was the demand that many a murderous attack has been made solely to obtain heads for the market, and those who were the finest tattooed were most sought for. Few are aware to what extent this abominable traffic has been carried, but it has now totally ceased.

If the person to whom the head had belonged was a relative or friend, the operators had to remove to some distance from the pa, and neither they or the relatives were allowed to touch any food until it was cured, for if the process was witnessed by the friends of the dead they would be unable to repress their tears, and the head would be spoiled; but if it were only the head of an enemy, the operation was performed before all the people. These preserved heads of relatives were kept in baskets, carefully kept and scented with oil. When brought out to be cried over, they were ornamented with feathers and placed in a conspicuous place.

Native names have also a signification, and are never given at random; those of chiefs are selected with much thought, from the Waka paparanga, or genealogical tables of the ancestors, for none can exceed the native in their pride of descent. Their genealogical tree was compared to the hue (calabash), the main shoot or stem of which is called the tahuhu, and the branches kawae. Very little is thought of a chief who cannot count back 20 or 30 generations, and the high families carry theirs back even to the beginning of all things. One would be very much amused in obtaining a tradition of this kind, beginning with na te kore I ai, from the nothing the something, then went on introducing name after name, and at last terminates with that of the speaker. The Tupunas and Arikis carefully taught their children the names of their ancestors, and to aid them in this work each family had a curious carved board, called the waka paparango rakau. This was made something like a saw each tooth representing a name; and here and there where a tooth was wanting, it implied that the male line had failed, and been continued in that of a female. It is considered rude to ask a chief his name, as it implies that he is a person of no consequence, from his not being known. A person speaking ironically of another who thinks much of his dignity, says: " Oh, yes, he is a great chief; indeed, wherever he goes they inquire, who is he?" The polite way of apologising for a person's ignorance of another's name is to say: " Ka patau i kai ahau i te umu o to Tapanga." " If I had partaken of the feast given when you were named, then indeed I should have known you." A chief generally receives three names during his life: the first, immediately after he comes into the world, is given by his mother, and might be called his child's name, such as " Tangi Kai," from the child calling for food; " Poaka" (pig), from its greediness; " Mokai" (pet), " Mo one" (a little lively grub), " Mouri" (heart's blood), etc., etc. The next is given at the " tuatanga," or naming, and is assumed as he grows up, the last being taken at the death of his father, which may be called the family name. Tumuuakairia, a principal chief of the Mani-a-poto, was taken prisoner, and threatened with being hung from the Tumu, or knot of a tree, but, being rescued by another chief from the fate intended him, he hence acquired his present name, which signifies, " the suspended from a knot of a tree."

Te Wakaahu, a Wanganui chief, slew Tuwhare, a head chief of the Ngatiwhatua, from Kaipara; he did not die at once, but lingered for a day or two. The dying chief told his conqueror he was no warrior, but only a husbandman; that he had not the hand of a man accustomed to fight, but only " he ringa ringa mahi kai," a hand accustomed to work, or he would have killed him outright. His conqueror ever after retained that as his name and his son after him. Rau paraha, the leaf of a convolvulus, was a name given to that chief by his father's murderer, who said, if he caught him, he would be a relish for that vegetable.

Huia, the daughter of Pomare, gave her infant the name of Nata (North Star), the vessel on board of which Pomare was carried a prisoner in defiance of a flag of truce. The widow of Matene Ruta, who was taken prisoner at Parirua during the Maori war and cruelly hung to commemorate the event, called her infant, which was born after its father's death, Repeka, the hung. Some names are taken in defiance, although they have originally been given by way of reproach, or as a curse; thus, when a woman made a song on Poto, a great chief, and said: " Taku Kuru Ranga Ko Koe e Poto te kai mo roto Ko te Rangi wakarurua," which is, literally, " You are the pounder of my rotton corn, O Poto; the food for my stomache is, Rangi wakarurua, your father." This was a great curse, and, to show his indignant defiance, Poto took the name Kuru Kanga, and his friend, Taui, who was his relative, to show his entire sympathy with him, also took as his name, Te Kai O roto. Horopatene's great name was Taui, and now his surname is Te Kai O roto.

Warekohuru is the name of a child whose parents were murdered in their own house. Marupo and Patupo are the names of midnight murderers. Paerangi (fair sky) is the name of a man of peace, or it may be the same as Paeroa, the long " pae" or mountain range, to express his high pretentions. Kau Moana and Oe Waka are names for great sailors. Everything has its name, their houses, canoes, weapons, and even garments, have distinctive appellations given them. Thus, when " Hori Kingi" built a new house he named it Ingarani (England), to show his friendship for our country. If the natives perceive any honour attached to our English names they immediately adopt it. Thus they assume Kingi for King, Kuini for Queen, Kawana for Governor, Kingi Wiremus for King William, Wikitora te Kuini for Victoria the Queen, etc., etc.

The Maori's seem to differ from almost any known tribe or nation in having no regular marriage ceremony; they had no karakai or any rite to mark an event, which in nearly every part of the world is accounted the most joyous in life.

The ancient and most general way of obtaining a wife was for the gentleman to summon his friends and make a regular taua, or fight, to carry off the lady by force, and oftentimes with great violence. Even when a girl was bestowed in marriage by her parents, frequently some distant relatives would feel aggrieved and fancy they had a greater right to her as a wife for one of their tribe; or, if the girl had eloped with some one on whom she had placed her affections, then her father or brothers would refuse their consent, and in either case would carry a taua, against the husband and his friends, to regain possession of the girl either by persuasion or by force. If confined in a house, they would pull it down, and if they gained access, then a fearful contest would ensue. The unfortunate female, thus placed between two contending parties, would soon be divested of every rag of clothing, and thus would be seized by her head, hair, or limbs, and as those who contended for her became tired with the struggle, fresh combatants would supply their places from the rear, climbing over the shoulders of their friends and so edge themselves into the mass immediately round the woman, whose cries and shrieks would be unheeded by her savage friends; in this way the poor creature was often nearly torn to pieces. These savage contests sometimes ended in the stronger party bearing off in triumph the naked person of the bride; in some cases, after long seasons of suffering, she recovered, to be given to a person for whom she had no affections; in others, to die within a few hours or days from the injuries she had received. But it is not uncommon for the weaker party, when they found they could not prevail, for one of them to put an end to the contest by suddenly plunging his spear into the woman's bosom, to hinder her from becoming the property of another.

When the parents consented, they usually said: " E pai ana kae Moe Korue koto bungane ka kanga iho ano korua, kanga iho ano kia korua ano."

The native term for courtship is " he aru aru," literally, a following or pursuing after. Every chief was at liberty to take as many wives as he pleased. If a chief had several wives, they were called the hoahoa of the head wife. They generally had from three to six, seldom more, and in many cases only one, especially among the lower orders. The number of wives added to the husband's importance, each wife having her own mara, or farm, and her own establishment, according to her rank, and furnished her share of the supplies for the establishment. When a chief had several wives, he could then entertain guests without fear of scarcity, and this was a sign of greatness.

When a man left home on a long journey, he repeated a " karakai" over his wife that she might be faithful, with a curse on anyone who shonld do him dishonour:—

Ko Maru kai tlakina te wha o runga,
Ko Tutangata Kino Kia tiakina te waha o raro.
Ka wakanoho ko mata te kuwàha Ka Kapi Ka urahia.
He aha te manu nana i noho te upoko o taku kaha,
He katipo, he karawa, he au ika, kia tika ki te tangata
Nana i makutu nana i Kaia.

Generally, the first wife was a lady of rank, and was always viewed as the chief wife, however many there might be and of whatever rank, but some were regarded as servile wives. Heu had six, but only one ranked as the head wife.

The first-born son, though his mother was only a slave wife, had all the rights of primogeniture, but should the first-born child be of the lady wife, he then acquired the dignity of an " Ariki." This rank also was given to her first-born, although a female. At sixteen the youths were considered men, and frequently as grave and staid, except in war time; then these youths are the worst and commit the greatest excesses.

Their food is generally comprised of pig, potatoes, taro, kumara, and fern-root; also eels, which they used to catch, of immense size. They are considered great delicacies, but often after eating these they were very ill.

There is one thing—a native will endure hunger very patiently, whereever he or she may be.

March 5th.—Drawing stores, ammunitions, etc. At 1 p.m., sailing races started, and resulted as follows:—

Class I. (for 23, 25, and 27ft. whalers, and 24 and 26ft. gigs): " Ringarooma" 1st, " Archer" 2nd and 3rd.

Class II. (for 25, 26, 27, 28ft. cutters, and 28ft. gigs): " Royal Arthur" 1st, " Phœbe" 2nd, " Wallaroo," 3rd.

Class III, (for 28, 32,36ft. pinnaces, and 42ft. launches): " Phœbe" 1st, " Royal Arthur" 2nd, " Ringarooma" 3rd.

March 6th.—Stowing stores and ammunition. At 11.30 a.m., officers away sailing for Admiral Beaumont's Cup, which was won by Commander J. P. Rolleston, from H.M.S. " Archer" 1st, " Royal Arthur" 2nd, " Phœbe' 3rd. During this race there was much excitement, as it was seen that the flagship's pinnace was closely following our galley, but at the finish, although the pinnace was over the mark two seconds before the galley, she lost on time allowance.

March 8th.—Left in company with the squadron, and proceeded single line ahead.

March 9th.—Heavy weather, so secured all gear as the ship was pitching heavily and taking seas over all.

March 11th.—Anchored at Wellington, New Zealand, and at once started coaling, taking in 133 tons.

March 16th.—Landed small-arm men in company with squadron for route marching.

March 18th.—Sailing race for Admiral Fanshawe's Cup, which was won by Captain J. P. Rolleston, of H.M.S. " Archer." The second prize, a cigarette case, was won by Lieut.-Commander Glossop, of H.M.S. " Lizard." This makes the only three cups offered on this station, and all won by the " Archer."

March 19th.—Proceeded to sea in company with the squadron, en route to Lyttleton, reaching there at 9 a.m. next day.

March 23rd.—Landed small-arm men and field guns' crew, in company with " Royal Arthur," " Ringarooma," " Phœbe," and " Karrakatta," to take part in the review held at Christchurch, Lancaster Park.

March 24th.—At 7 a.m. weighed port anchor and warped alongside Gladstone Pier. At 9.30 a.m., H.M. ships " Ringarooma," " Phœbe," and " Karrakatta" came alongside. At 1 p.m., ship open to school children. How thoroughly the children of Canterbury appreciated the excellent suggestion that they should be allowed to inspect the vessels of the Royal Navy at Lyttleton, was shown by the swarms of youngsters who thronged the port. Upwards of 1,600 children from country schools with over 100 teachers, came down to Lyttleton. How thoroughly representative of all parts of Canterbury was the gathering, may be seen by the following list of the schools which contributed to the juvenile army which invaded Lyttleton. East Christchurch, Tinwald, Hampstead, Dromore, Cherkey, Rakaia, Dorie, Methven, Lauriston, Killinchy, Springfield, Annat, Waddington, Charing Cross, Greendale, South Malvern, Kirwee, Southbridge, Little Rakaia, Leeston, Irwell, Springston South, Lincoln, Ladbrooks, Pebbleton, Waikai, Greta Valley, Eskvale, Balcairn, Legton, Ashley, Rangiora, Fernside, Cust, Kiritiri, Southbrook, Flaxton, Kiapoi Island, Kiapoi, Clarkville, Ohoka, Egreton, West Eyreton, The Peaks, and Harewood Road.

The country visitors occupied the morning in picnicking on the reclaimed land near the men-of-war. The men-of-war " Ringarooma," " Archer," " Phœbe," and " Karrakatta," for the convenience of the visitors, had been placed alongside the piers in port. The officers and men of the warships good-naturedly exerted themselves to the utmost to show the wonders of their vessels. There can be little doubt that everyone of the children was impressed with the effectiveness of the British men-of-war. There can be no manner of doubt whatever, that every youngster of the two thousand odd that visited Lyttleton, has formed a high opinion of the British bluejacket. The kindliness and generosity which are marked features of Jack's character, were never better exemplified than in his treatment of the children of Canterbury. Not only did officers and men play to perfection the part of cicerone, explaining over and over again the mysteries of gun, torpedo tube, searchlight, compass, and many multitudinous accessories of the modern manof-war, but they showed open-hearted hospitality to all and sundry. Afternoon tea was very acceptable on such a warm, dusty afternoon, and was lavishly served on all the vessels. The officers entertained the teachers in the ward-room, while bluejackets and marines ministered to the wants of hundreds of little folks in the men's quarters on the mess-deck. Impromptu entertainments of various kinds were got up for the amusement of the visitors. That this kindness was keenly appreciated goes without saying, and the voices of the youngsters were uplifted in praise to everyone and everything.

THE LADY BRASSEY, VICE-ADMIRAL BEAUMONT, AND
VICE-ADMIRAL FRANSHAWE CUPS.

In the evening a smoking concert was given, by the citizens of Christchurch, to the men of the fleet. It was a joyous gathering at the Colosseum, Christchurch, when the men of the squadron were entertained. From the commencement there was an absence of all stiffness and formality, and " every man Jack" laid himself out to enjoy himself, and they lost no time in doing so. There were between 300 and 400 present, and about the latter number sat down to supper, which was provided by Mr. A. Rattray. Mr. W. Minson was in the chair, and Councillors W. Clarke and J. M. Taylor, ably supported him, and assisted the men to pass a pleasant evening. During supper, appropriate selections were given by the Woolston Band. The Chairman said that in the absence of the Mayor, who was engaged in another function, the duty devolved on him to express to those present the great pleasure it gave the citizens of Christchurch to see them present and entertain them. (Loud applause). They fully recognised and appreciated the important part the sailors played in upholding the honour and glory of the Empire. Like themselves, the colonials were 13,000 miles away from King and country, but distance did not quench their loyalty and patriotism. Here, in Christchurch, they were just as loyal to their King as their guests were to the girls they had left behind them. (Hear, hear). During the past two or three years, they had on various occasions made the roofs of Christchurch ring with their appreciation of the noble efforts that their comrades had made at the Cape. He felt quite sure that if at any time they were called upon to defend their country, they would give the citizens of Christchurch cause to shout louder than they had ever done before. He hoped they would have a good time, and the people of Christchurch would do their best to make their stay enjoyable. The toast of " The King" was enthusiastically honoured, and the evening was then given to enjoyment.

An instrumental band from the fleet, consisting of Hughes, P.O.1; Whitaway, P.O.2; Green, stoker, " Ringarooma"; Jenner, Ldg. Sig., " Phœbe"; and Littlejohn, S.B.S., " Archer," gave two well-played selections, and vocal items were contributed by Sergeant Elliot of the " Royal Arthur," Mr. C. Read, and Mr. C. Dean. Mr. D. Ryan gave several recitations, and Stubbs, G.1, " Royal Arthur," gave a clog dance, accompanied by the instrumental band. An adjournment was then made to the open space in the Hall, where a " buck dance" was held.

Mr. A. Dudley Dobson proposed the health of " The Navy," which was responded to by Sergeant Elliott, " Royal Arthur." The evening concluding with three cheers by the visitors for the Mayor and Secretary.

March 26th.—Left harbour for a full-speed and three-fifths speed trial.

March 27th.—Out target and went to cannon-tube practice, and at night carried out night firing, anchoring at Auckland on the 29th.

April 1st.—Coaled ship, taking in 132 tons, leaving on the 4th for our annual prize firing, but had to postpone it on account of weather.

April 6th.—Left with prize firing target in tow, and after laying out mark buoys, commenced firing, returning to Auckland at 5.30 p.m.

April 7th.—Left for Noumea, New Calenonia, reaching there on the 12th. French man-o'-war " Meurthe" in port.

April 16th.—Coaled ship, taking in 106 tons, and left next day for Vila Island, New Hebrides, a distance of 359 miles.

April 21 st.—Cleared out magazines, stowed fore and aft sail, and in the evening landed a seining party, but few fish were caught.

April 27th.—Weighed and proceeded; Captain Rason, R.N., Deputy Commissioner of New Hebrides, his secretary, and boat's crew taking a passage. We visited Havannah, Egate Island, Epi Island, Kalcula, and Tonga Island, anchoring at the latter place on the 29th.

DESCRIPTIOM OF VILA, HAVANNAH, AND TONGA.

Egate is 25 miles long and 18 miles wide. Vila, on the east side of Melio Bay, affords good shelter and anchorage. This harbour covers an area of about a square mile. On the western side of the harbour is Fila Island, of elevated coral formation, and covered with trees. On the eastern side a stone pier has been built with a tramway running along it to facilitate the shipment of coffee and other products grown in the vicinity. There are several settlers of different nationalities at Vila who cultivate maize, coffee, etc., with success. This is the future port of the New Hebrides, as the shipping here is much greater than anywhere in the islands.

Mount Macdonald is the highest peak in Egate, reaching an altitude of 2,203 feet.

The resident Deputy Commissioner, Captain Rason, has his establishment here, as has also the French resident Deputy Commissioner.

There are many different species of fish here, but our ship's company were always on the look out for " Epu," as they call it, for, after partaking of a certain species of fish, some dozen men were laid up with what is known to us as the " Epu."

Havannah Harbour may be described as a basin of deep water. It is about 6 miles long, with the average width of about 1 miles, but very few anchorages can be had. This is the only place where we had fresh meat; there are plenty of cattle, but very few vegetables.

Undine Bay is formed by the islands of Nguna, Pele, and Kakula, the north coast of Egate, and Moss Islands. It is about 7 miles long and 3 wide. This place was visited by officers, but nothing of importance is attached thereto. The natives are very friendly, and will barter freely for tobacco.

Tongoa is the largest and most important of the Shepherd Group of islands. It is about 5 miles in length, with an average width of nearly 3 miles. The island is very fertile, being covered with vegetation which extends to the summit of all its hills, with plenty of land under cultivation. It is well populated, making copra being the chief employment of the natives. From a distance, Tongoa presents the appearance of a cluster of hills, most of which are cone-shaped, with the exception of two or three, which are table-topped. There is a Presbyterian mission here, near Lumbukuti village. Nearly all the natives profess Christianity, and have schools with native teachers in all their villages.

From the point under Tava-ni-Akoma the coast becomes low, and is formed of broken ledges and volcanic boulders, tending towards Boiling Point, which is the northern extreme of Tongoa. A short distance eastward of Boiling Point is a bare patch of land, 20 to 25 acres in extent, fronted by a cliff 50 feet high. The ground is quite hot, and gives off steam in places. Here the natives sometimes cook their food in holes dug in the ground, which is at too high a temperature to allow the palm of the hand to rest on the surface. Figs, bananas, and oranges are very plentiful, and were tendered by the natives in exchange for tobacco. The highest peak at Tongoa is Tava-ni-Orata, which is in the north-eastern part of the island, and is 1,674 feet high.

April 30th.—Weighed and proceeded, carrying out cannon-tube practice on our way to Diamond Bay, where we anchored about noon.

Diamond Bay, or Ona-ma-vit, is a slight indentation in the coast about 6 miles S.S.E. of the Foreland. There is a copra station here. About a mile N.W. of Diamond Bay is " Vat-i-to" Point (Three Stones), the name being derived from the proximity of three rocks, 5 to 8 feet high, which are easily distinguishable from sea.

The same day we weighed and proceeded a distance of 7 miles, anchoring at the Foreland (Revio), which is a cliffy promontory of coral limestone, 655 feet high, and can be seen for a considerable distance either from the north or the south; whilst from the west, with an afternoon sun, the bare patches on the cliff are visible a long way off. The most conspicuous object is a solitary cocoanut-tree, which flourishes on the summit of the mountain at an altitude of 1,025 feet.

May 1st.— Exercised general quarters, boarders, cleaned decks, etc.

May 2nd.—Weighed and proceeded, anchoring at Alua Bay, Malekula Island, which place we reached at 7.12 a.m. after a run of 36 mils. Alua Bay is not of much importance, so after we had visited the Presbyterian mission and found all well, we left for Pangkumu Bay, Malekula, a distance of 8 miles, where we anchored. There is a Presbyterian mission here. Mount Morton is the northern summit of a wooded ridge close behind the mission station, which is plainly visible from sea, as it stands out prominently from the other hills; its northern side drops steeply to the flat plain. To the westward of Pangkumu Bluff the hills recede from the coast, leaving an extensive, low, and thickly-wooded plain, with a large shallow lagoon close to the coast, which at certain times of the year is frequented by wild duck, etc. The natives, during our stay, seemed very friendly, and gladly exchanged figs and yams for tobacco. We left here at 2.48 p.m., and after a run of 20 miles, anchored at Port Stanley, Malekula.

Port Stanley is the name given to the large expanse of water lying behind Uri and Uripiv Islands, but on account of the depth of water it cannot be called a good harbour. It is 6 miles long with an average width of 1 miles, and its southern extreme is only divided from Bushman's Bay by a narrow neck of land. Nearly the whole of the beach round Port Stanley is fringed with mangroves, and the harbour is studded with several islands and numerous patches of coral reef. There are little, if any, supplies, and the few natives seen on the beach took to the bush on our approach.

May 3rd (Sunday).—Usual Sunday's routine.

May 4th.—At 5.40 a.m., weighed and proceeded, stopping at Uripiv Island to embark the Rev. Mr. Gillan, and then went on to Wala Island, Malekula, and anchored at 7.30 a.m. Wala Island is about 1 miles in circumference, and 150 feet above sea-level, surrounded by a fringing coral reef. An English copra trader resides on the western side of the island, and on the south-eastern side is a station of the Marist mission.

May 5th.—At 4 a.m., steam cutter away visiting Wala Island and communicating with S.S. " Tambo." Landed four natives who had been inland at Malekula acting as interpreters, and then proceeded for Espiégle Bay, Malekula, calling at Videl Point and Wo-Wo Bay on our way. At 1 p.m we anchored in Espiégle Bay, which covers a large area intersected with smaller bays. Malua Bay, three-quarters of a mile to the south of Espiégle Bay, is the place where our boats communicated. The natives seen here are " Bushmen," and live up on the plateau behind the bay. During our visit they were very friendly, and brought off what little they had in the way of bananas, oranges, and tusks, which they bartered for tobacco.

At Malekula Island the natives are divided into two classes, the " Saltwatermen" and " Bushmen," between whom there appears to be unceasing war. The offlying islands are densely populated by the former, who live there for the sake of security. They possess numerous canoes, in which they cross over to the mainland opposite every morning to cultivate their crops of yams, bananas, etc., being careful to return before dark. Some of the canoes, which are very large, have a triangular matting sail, and are used for trading expeditions to Malo and Ambrym Islands. Fishing is confined to spearing fish at low water on the reefs. The natives are a wild, savage race, and have the reputation of being treacherous; but of late years, more frequent intercourse with white men and the presence of resident missionaries have done much to modify this. In the presence of a man-o'-war, at any rate, they appear very friendly, having a good idea of the punishment that would be inflicted upon them in case of bad behaviour. Cannibalism is still occasionally practised between the two different races, and nearly all are armed with Snider rifles, but ammunition is very scarce. Many of them have been to Queensland in harbour schooners, and speak a dialect known as Beche de mer English. The " Bushmen" live entirely among the hills, and are seldom seen, being practically secure from punishment. They have not the same reasons for good behaviour that the " Saltwatermen" have, and therefore are treated with caution, boats and landing parties being armed. All villages being hidden amongst the trees, it is only by their smoke that their presence can be suspected.

At Malekula little or nothing can be obtained except yams, cocoanuts and bananas. The natives possess many pigs, but are reluctant to dispose of them, excepting the little ones or the female pigs. They never eat of anything that is feminine or made by the feminine hand, and each man has his own fire. After returning from their fields, they can be seen lighting their own fire and cooking their own " boar," and two men will never eat of the same dish or cook by the same fire. This is, I believe, part of their religious belief. Another superstitious belief is that, when a man of the household dies, it is the custom to cut holes in the soles of his feet to allow the spirit to get out, and after keeping him for a certain number of days, a huge feast is given, and the man's canoe, with a boar pig, some trading cloth, and his rifle or bow and arrow, is cast adrift on the open sea to follow his spirit. Should anyone become very ill, his relatives are advised by the medicine-men to bury him, which they do—alive. Mr. Gillan, of Uripiv, has now a young girl in his mission whom he found buried alive. Should a mother die bearing a female child, it is buried with the mother.

May 6th.—At 7 a.m. our Captain and Rev. Mr. Gillan landed to visit natives on shore. Weighed and proceeded to run torpedoes at 9 a.m., finishing by 11 a.m. At 12.27 p.m., anchored at Malua Bay, Malekula. Divers away searching for lost gear.

May 7th.—Exercised small arm men and held guns' crews. Steam cutter carried out sweeping and creeping. Make and mend, etc.

May 8th.—Weighed and proceeded at 4.10 a.m., stopping off Vao Island to disembark natives for Vao and Atchin Islands in steam cutter. Proceeded to Wala Island, anchored and communicated, leaving again at 9.45 a.m. for Uripiv Island, where we disembarked the Rev. Mr. Gillan; then proceeded and anchored at Dip Point anchorage, Ambrym Island. Discharged one A.B. to hospital suffering from typhoid. Dip Point anchorage is in the westernmost part of Ambrym, where is situated the hospital under the supervision of Dr. Bower, a native of Scotland. A Presbyterian mission is also established here.

DESCRIPTION OF AMBRYM.

This island is about 24 miles long by 16 miles broad. The island is of mountainous aspect, densely wooded, and appears to be entirely volcanic. In the centre are several conspicuous peaks, which apparently surround an enormous crater. The summit of Mount Marum ("Bwei ma ape") is 4,380 feet high, and is usually enveloped in clouds. A few years back Mount Benbow's volcano was unusually active.

About the year 1893, a rounded hill, about 1,190 feet high, near the south-east point of the island, was seen to be in activity, steam issuing, and its eastern slope was covered with a light yellowish deposit.

Hot springs can also be seen at various parts or the island.

Mount Tuyio, on the northern end of the island, about 3,820 feet high, has a beautiful and imposing appearance from its symmetrical shape and luxuriant vegetation on its slopes.

Minnei peak is another conspicuous coned hill, 1,245 feet high, overlooking Dip Point at the western end of the island.

The natives of Ambrym appear to be of a similar race to the natives of Malekula, with which island communication is occasionally carried on. The vicinity of Dip Point seems to be fairly populated and the natives friendly. At other parts of the island the natives were treated with caution as at Malekula, as little is known of them.

May 9th.—Arrived at Vila Egati Island. French man-of-war " Meurthe" in port.

May 12th.—Left at 5.45 a.m., and commenced cannon tube practice at 9.30, then proceeded to Noumea, where we arrived on the 14th, and made fast to a buoy.

May 19th.—Coaled ship, taking in 211 tons.

May 22nd.—Slipped from buoy, and proceeded to port Vila for the survey of surrounding islands.

July 9th.—The past month has been passed among the islands; the routine being up and down anchor daily, sometimes twice a day; yesterday we anchored at Panuwa Island, where we discharged secretary and two natives to shore. To-day, Captain Rason and staff disembarked, after which we proceeded, anchoring at Turtle Bay, Santo, at 11.30 a.m.; left at 12.40 p.m., and anchored at Dundee, Aoba Island, at 5.50 p.m. Aoba, or Lepers Islands (the latter name being probably in consequence of the prevalent skin disease being mistaken for leprosy) is about seventeen miles long, N.-E. by E. and S.-W. by W. Its magnificent mountains, rising to a height of about 4,000 feet, resembles a whale's back in outlines, and from the sea assuming a most imposing appearance. Cocoanut trees are very numerous, and grow at a great height up the mountains as well as round the shores. The yam and taro plantations are more numerous than on the other islands. On the summit of the island there is a lake, and near its centre, a small crater which often emits smoke. The shores are steep, except the north-east point. The east coast is bordered by black rocks. The natives communicate with ships by means of their small canoes, which they manage cleverly. An abundance of yams and cocoanuts are grown on the island, but in consequence of the swell on the beach, it is sometimes difficult to land boats from the ships; but the natives, though apparently energetic, have not yet accustomed themselves to bring off supplies in their canoes, which, though numerous, are small. The natives on the north end are quite friendly; towards the west, they are not black, but brown. They are a manly and intelligent people, and go in their canoes as far as Santo.

July 10th.—At 5.50 a.m., weighed, and proceeded to Walurigi, Aoba, anchoring at 6.45 a.m. Sent whaler to visit Loloboiboi, returning at 9.30 a.m. Ship proceeded to Bice Roads, and whaler to Loowbala to visit settlers. Exercised general quarters, etc. Stopped off Bice Roads and sent gig ashore to communicate. Ship proceeded to pick up whaler and gig, and anchored at Laka Rere, Aurora Island, distance run 13 miles. Aurora de Maewo Island, the north-eastern island of the New Hebrides group, is about 30 miles long, north and south, and about 2,000 feet high, with a neck of low land between the northern and southern ranges, and is separated from Aragh Island by a passage about 4 miles wide. Like Amhrym, it is rich and fertile, abounding with cocoanut trees. The north face of the island is nearly 2 miles wide east and west, with a light in the centre. Lake Rere is about 8 miles from the north-west point; and about mile inland can be seen a beautiful double waterfall. Natives from the inland villages assemble at the streams of the waterfall to barter. They are friendly and look a superior class of people compared to those of the other islands, but being armed with bows and poisoned arrows, great care was taken not to cause any unpleasantness amongst them, as we are told local quarrels appear to be the normal state of things in these islands. Taro, cocoanuts, and yams are plentiful.

July 11th.—Weighed, and proceeded at 5.45 a.m. Stopped off Narovorovoko to inspect the island. At 7.40 a.m., weighed and proceeded, anchoring at Steep Cliff Bay, Aragh-Aragh, Pentecost or Whit-Sunday Island, distance run, 37 miles. Weighed, and proceeded to Truchy Point, Aragh Island, where we anchored at4.5 p.m.

Aragh-Aragh, Pentecost or Whit-Sunday Island, is 34 miles long, and 6 miles wide. Pentecost is everywhere very densely wooded, and has no distinctive features, except near the south end of the island, which is very irregular in outline, and where numerous mountains 2,000 and 3,000 feet high, and the hills, are much broken up by ravines. Otherwise, it appears to consist of a series of parallel straight ridges, running north and south. The island is fairly populated. At Tan-mara-mara point, the natives have a bad reputation according to the traders' talk. According to all accounts, cannibalism is still very prevalent. Bananas, yams, native cabbage, and pine apples can be had in small quantities. Truchy point is a rounded point of sand beach. An English trader is here. Steep Cliff Bay extends from Grotto Point. A French trader is here.

July 12th.—Weighed, and proceeded at 6.45 p.m., and anchored at Rodds anchorage, Amblyn, at 8.55 p.m. At 11.30 a.m., we weighed and proceeded, and anchored at Dip Point anchorage, Amblym, a distance run of 16 miles.

During our stay here we had a good bit of sport with a shark about 16 feet in length. But all means to attract him to take the four-pound piece of pork, which was suspended over the bows, was of no use. Before getting under weigh, one of the officers had a shot at him, but if he was hit or not, I cannot tell. At 4.15 p.m., weighed and proceeded.

July 13th.—We anchored at Havannah Harbour, Egati, at 5.25 p.m. Ships too close, so we shifted berth —distance run, 97 miles. Exercised collision stations, etc. Weighed, and proceeded at 11.30 a.m., and anchored at Villa Egati at 2.56 p.m.—distance run, 23 miles. French man-of-war " Meurthe" was in port.

July 14th.—At 8 a.m., dressed ship in honour of French Anniversary Day, and fired a royal salute of twenty-one guns. At 1.30 p.m., boats away competing in pulling and sailing races, which resulted as follows:

Sailing Race.—" Archer's" 2nd cutter, 1st; 1st cutter, 2nd; " Meurthe's" pinnace, 3rd.

Pulling Race.— " Archer's" galley, 1st; French galley, 2nd; French whaler with " Archer's" men, 3rd; " Archer's" whaler with Frenchmen, 4th.

This was a very exciting race, as the Frenchmen kept fouling themselves, and " Archer's" galley had a very easy win. Sports were indulged in on shore among the natives. At 5.40 p.m., undressed ship, and fired a salute of twenty-one guns.

July 15th.—Painting boats, etc. At 1.20 p.m., French man-of-war " Meurthe" sailed. At 4 p.m., exercised boats under oars.

July 16th.—At 8.45 a.m., landed seamen for route marching' without arms, returning at 11.45 a.m. At one p.m., exercised stokers, marines, and seamen at boat exercise.

July 20th.—Weighed and proceeded to Port Noumea, reaching there on the 22nd, and discharged one man to hospital.

July 27th.—Coaled ship, taking in 200 tons, and then commenced to have a good clean up.

July 28th.—Left Noumea and carried out quarterly target practice with heavy guns, and, after a pleasant trip, reached Tangon Island on the 31st, where we anchored.

August 1st.—Got under weigh and ran to Hog Harbour—a distance of 45 miles—where we picked up Captain Rason and staff, and proceeded to Avreas Bay, Vanua Lava, Banks Group.

Vanua Lava, the largest island of the Banks Group, is 15 miles north and south and 10 miles broad. A volcanic mountain range, attaining a height of upwards of 3,000 feet, runs nearly throughout its whole length. The summit of the range (Mount Suretamati) is a crater frequently emitting volumes of steam. On the northeast side, near the coast, there are two remarkable conical peaks, the northern being 2,620 feet and the southern 2,530 feet high. The south-east extreme of the mountain range terminates in a conspicuous peak 3,120 feet high, and is the highest point of the range, from which spurs descent to form a coast ridge along the south-east shore, a lofty promontory rising to a peak 2,650 feet high from the southern extremity of the island, to which it is joined by a low and narrow neck of land. The eastern side of this mountain range slopes steeply with deep ravines, leaving a considerable area of low, swampy land between the coast and the foot of the hills. On the north and west sides the slopes are more gradual, with a plateau 700 or 800 feet high, falling steeply to the shore. It is everywhere thickly wooded. The coast is throughout rocky, with small bays; black volcanic sand at the mouth of the large ravines, or else beaches of coralline debris. On the sides of Suretamati there are several hot springs, from which arise constant jets of steam. A stream of water impregnated with sulphur discharges on the north-east coast, while a similar stream falls into Port Patterson on the east coast. There are also two cascades on the west coast—one single, one double. Vanua Lava is thickly populated; the principal villages are on the north-west side. There are mission stations at Pak and at Avreas Bay.

At 11.30 a.m. we weighed and proceeded to South Bay, where we disembarked Captain Rason and staff.

Port Patterson, discovered by Bishop Patterson in 1857, on the east side of the island, is over two miles wide, between two promontories, whose salient points, Grange and Musa, partially enclose and protect two small bays. South Bay is the southern portion of Port Patterson, and is comprised between Spout Point on the west side and the Grange point on the east. The south side of the Bay is formed by a peninsula, which is a spur from a chain of mountains, and presents three peaks, of which point Grange is the least elevated. Surlava, three-quarters of a mile to the southward, is 331 feet high; the third, Tawen-Kwat, is a mile and a quarter further west. The natives are considered more intelligent and finer-looking people than those at New Hebrides. There is a school belonging to the English mission. Yams, tagos, and bananas are plentiful.

August 4th.—At 9.25 a.m., stood into Vi Paki and communicated with shore; proceeded to Hayter Bay, Middle Island, Torres Group, and anchored.

Torres Group, also known as Dava, are five in number; they are of a coral formation, some being flattopped, ethers rising in terrace to peaked hill; the north island of the latter description is 1,251 feet above the sea, while the south island is 901 feet.

Hui, or North Island, is the largest and highest of the group, about six-and-a-half miles long by three broad, the southern end being the highest, where the land rise to an elevation of 1,251 feet, sloping in terraces towards the northern point.

BANKS ISLANDS.

Ureparapara, or Bligh Island, is situated 11 miles north-west from the north point of Vanua Lava; it is nearly circular in shape, 12 miles In circumference, and is the unsurmerged portion of a large crater, with the north-east lip blown away. The summit of the island, 2,440 feet in height, is on its western side, but is not a prominent peak from all sides. On the slope of the ridge the volcanic heat still finds a vent. The outline of the hills are somewhat serrated, and slopes gradually to the eastward, the northern side of the crater walls being higher than the southern. The sides are thickly wooded and fall steeply down to the water's edge, except at the top of the bay, where they recede from the shore, leaving a margin of bare land. The inhabitants are friendly, and about 270 in number at Ureparapara.

The total population of the Banks Islands are about 5,000, but diminishing year by year.

August 5th.—At 1.30 p.m. weighed and proceeded to Lakona Bay, Gava Island, arriving there on August 8th at 12.5 p.m. and anchoring.

August 9th (Sunday).—Proceeded to Port Olroy and communicated with shore, leaving again for Hog Harbour, Santo Island, where we anchored. Captain mustered ship's company by the ledger. In the afternoon the ship's company were granted leave, and a good few took the opportunity of visiting Santo. At 6 p.m., when the men returned off leave, it was found that one man was absent; of course this caused some little excitement in the ship; some surmised he had lost his way in the thick bush, others surmised an accident, others, in a joke, said that a pot mess had been made of him. At all events, the man had not turned up at 8 p.m., and a search party of 14 men and six of the western Papuans (Fijaus, Captain Rason's boat's crew) armed, and under the direction of the missionary, Dr. Mackenzie and G.I, went in search, two men being detailed with each Figiau, all setting out in different directions. The Figius, who were delighted at landing with the bluejackets, caused considerable sport, cutting down trees which were in the way, etc. During this time we had the searchlight burning to attract the man's attention, but all to no good. At 11 p.m. the recall was made by firing a blank charge from the 6in. quick-firing gun. At noon the search party returned, but no strayed hand.

August 10th—Proceeded to Walaka, from thence to Asbe Island, and again off to Longana, and so on daily, flitting from one inlet to another, staying sometimes a day, sometimes only a few hours, or just long enough for Captain Rason to pay his visit.

RUGBY FOOTBALL TEAM.

August 21st.—Entered Port Noumea and anchored, and, after a few days employed in evolutions, on the 28th went alongside coaling wharf and took in 215 tons of coal.

August 31 st.—Got under weigh and carried out torpedo practice and 3-pounder firing.

September 2nd.—Arrived at Vela Egate and picked up Captain Rason and staff, and proceeded on our tour of inspection and surveying, Captain Rason landing daily at our various places of call, investigating native trouble, &c., until Septemher 20th, when we returned to Noumea, went alongside wharf next day and coaled, taking in 223 tons.

September 26th.—Held a regatta, both sailing and pulling, the following being the result:—

Sailing.—Pilot boat, 1st; " Archer," 2nd; " Meurthe" (French), 3rd.

Pulling.—" Meurthe" and " Archer," dead-heat.

October 1st.—Left for Senakel, Tanua Island, reaching there on the 8th, leaving again next day, and called at Content Point, proceeding from there to White Sand, where we anchored for the night, and from there to William Bay, Gromouga Island. This, like many other islands visited, is thickly wooded, and shows signs of volcanic origin.

October 22nd.—Anchored at Luva, Fiji, and next morning commenced coaling, taking in 235 tons. Here the rifle team challenged the Fiji volunteers (conditions, seven on each side), which resulted in a win for the " Archer's" team by 18 points.

October 26th.—Embarked Captain Rason and proceeded to sea, the weather being anything but pleasant. After a run of 612 miles we anchored at Vila Egate, and Captain Rason and party disembarked.

October 30th.—At 9.45 we had general quarters, boarders, etc., doing it with a light heart, for to-day we leave the islands for good. We got ready for sea, preparing boats, etc., and at 6.30 p.m., weighed, and proceeded to Noumea.

November 1st (Sunday).—At 3.30 p.m. we sighted New Caledonia, and entered Port Noumea and made fast to a buoy at 11 a.m. From that time till 12 o'clock, everyone was looking eagerly for the mail, especially the orders to pay off, which we received, and the payingoff pennant was hoisted at the masthead. Distance run from Vila, 318 miles. French man-of-war " Meurthe" in port.

Before proceeding any further, I must give you a few outlines of the New Hebrides in general.

On December 21st, 1605, two Spanish ships set out from Lima (Callao) in quest of the great Southern Continent, which the intrepid, exploring and ambitious conquerors of the Americans imagined to lie hidden away somewhere in the vast expanse of the Pacific. One ship was in charge of Dom Pedro Hernandez de Quiros, a native of Portugal, and the other was captained by Luiz Vaez de Torres.

On April 30th, 1606, land was sighted. Misled by its dimensions, imagination associated it with the muchsought for continent. De Quiros endowed the territory with the somewhat verbose name of " Tierra Australis del Espiritu Santo." This land was no other than the northernmost and largest of the islands now known as the Hebrides Group. Don Ouiros made a bold attempt at settlement, but through sickness and the hostility of the natives, was compelled to return to South America, where he died in 1616.

Torres, however, continued his voyage westward, sighted the real Terra Australis, and passed through the straits to the north of Cape York, which subsequently received his illustrious name.

For 150 years thereafter, until 1767, the New Hebrides appeared to have remained unvisited, when Phillip Carteret, in the " Swallow," touched at several of the islands. De Bougainville followed a year later. But it was left to Captain Cook to give them their present name, and to thoroughly explore the whole ground on his second expedition in 1774, when he charted and named most of the islands, headlands, and straights.

The New Hebrides lie in a N.W. and S.W. direction, stretching over about 760 miles of sea, their history and proximity to Australia seems alike to mark them out as future British territory. Though the Spaniards discovered the New Hebrides, and even settled there, they never became claimants of the group. As regards any claim of possession, a friendly rivalry exists between France and Great Britain, the group being under a mutual dual control of the two powers. Had these two great nations taken any heed of the outcries during the past two decades of their subjects located in the now much discussed archipelago, a casus belli would have frequently been furnished them, but wiser counsels have prevailed. Great Britain and France are not likely to be drawn over so small a matter as the question of dominance in a chain of islands of such unimportance as the New Hebrides, certainly of relatively little moment to a nation like France, which, even though wishful to emulate her compeers in the acquisition of territory in the Pacific, cannot really hope for the expansion of her realm in that direction, seeing that she already possesses the valuable island of New Caledonia, the Society, Marquesas, and many other islands in these seas, and that beyond the New Hebrides, there is virtually nothing left. England, Germany, Holland, and the United States having already absorbed all the plums to be acquired. Also, the results so far achieved by French enterprise in the New Hebrides are not calculated to fan the flames of desire for possession.

The attempt at colonisation by the late French New Hebrides Company (now in liquidation), ended in a pronounced failure, notwithstanding the sinking of vast capital, and the acquirement of considerable areas, which it was unable to develop. Several minor French enterprises have proved equally unfortunate. It is certainly not through lack of effort and persistancy that failure resulted, but throughan evident unaptness at colonizing, and in all fairness it must be admitted that a better fate was deserved. Neither did their efforts to subjugate the natives succeed, so that, under the circumstances it is not surprising that the Kamaka prefers the Britisher to deal with. It is an historical fact that the British were in the New Hebrides long before the French, consequently if, as most authorities contend, primary occupation justifies annexation, the British certainly possess prior rights.

The New Hebrides question has recently entered the sphere of practical politics, mainly due to Australia explaining with some emphasis to the Motherland its wishes in regard to the neighbouring archipelago, with the result that the Colonial Office sent out a Resident Commissioner and Consul, in the person of Captain Ernest Rason, R.N., as a preliminary to the more important issues that will no doubt follow.

The principal product of the group is copra, made with the flesh of the cocoanut, most of the islands being mostly covered with cocoanut trees. Maize and coffee are also largely grown, and with the steady influx of Australian colonists, the New Hebrides should, in a few years, vie with the West Indies in all their tropical products, possessing the richest of soils and an almost similar climate.

November 2nd.—To-day we have been getting ready for the trip back to Sydney. Cleaning ship in general.

November 3rd.—Same as yesterday, with the exception of cleaning down aloft. To-day, we are painting masts and yards, etc.

November 5th.—In the forenoon, the Captain of the French man-of-war, " Meurthe," came on board to wish the officers good-bye. At 10 a.m., the " Meurthe" weighed anchor, and steamed down the entrance. Up to the masthead fluttered a few pieces of bunting, wishing the " Archer" a pleasant voyage, which was responded by hoisting " Thank you, good-bye." At this time the men of the " Meurthe" were seen to be on the forecastle and in the rigging, and three hearty cheers were given for the welfare of the " Archer." In less time than it takes to write, the men of the " Archer" were up aloft, and responded with another three hearty cheers. This is our first cheer—how eagerly we are looking forward for the last, especially after being away from civilisation for seven months.

November 6th.—Again we find ourselves painting in general, before our return to Sidney.

November 8th (Sunday).—Captain mustered the ship's company by the ledger, etc., which was followed by divine service.

November 9th.—At 8 a.m. the ship was dressed rainbow fashion in honour of H.M. King Edward VII.'s birthday. The crafts in harbour, signal station, and also the houses ashore flew bunting. At noon, we fired a royal salute of twenty-one guns, the shore battery also firing a salute of twenty-one guns (French artillery).

November 10th.—Painting and general work occupied our time to-day.

November 11th.—At 6 a.m. we slipped the buoy and warped alongside the jetty, arriving alongside at 7.10 a.m., and at 8 a.m. commenced coaling, finishing at 9.50 a.m. Till pipe dinner, hands were employed cleaning ship. At 2.30 p.m. we let go from jetty, weighed anchor by hand, and warped to MM. buoy, securing at 4 p.m.

November 13th.—We slipped buoy and proceeded, and carried out heavy gun practice and cannon tube, and then proceeded for Sydney, to the delight of everyone. With the exception of some dirty weather and strong winds, nothing of importance occurred.

November 19th.—We entered Sydney Heads at 4.30 p.m., obtained pratique, and proceeded into harbour, where we met the " Katoomba," " Ringarooma," " Wallaroo," Mildura," and " Karrakatta," and all getting ready to pay off. At 5.30 p.m. we were secured to No. 2 buoy.

November 20th.—To-day finds us returning stores, etc. At 11.45 a.m., H.M.S. " Pylades" arrived from South Pacific Islands.

Saturday 21st.—H.M.S. " Katoomba," after being tied up to Garden Island, went out for steam trial, and returned to Sydney and made fast south side of Garden Island.

November 22nd (Sunday).—H.M.S. " Royal Arthur," with Commander-in-Chief on board, arrived and made fast to No. 1 buoy.

November 23rd.—At 7.30 a.m., we slipped buoy in tow of tugs, and proceeded to dock, where we arrived at 8.50 a.m. H.M.S. " Karrakatta" arrived in dock at 10 a.m. I cannot detail anything of importance, except dock life, cleaning ship's side, etc., until Monday, November 30th, when, at 10 a.m., we proceeded out of dock, arriving and anchoring at Neutral Bay at 10.50 a.m. Since our arrival from dock, where we received a good overhaul, things have been pretty lively preparing for the Admiral's inspection.

December 3rd.—We coaled, taking in 225 tons at a very good rate. At 5 p.m. the " Diadem" and " Scylla" arrived at Sydney with the crews of " Ringarooma," " Katoomba," " Wallaroo," and " Tauranga," the " Diadem" berthing at Garden Island and the " Scylla" making fast to a buoy. It was a fine sight for the people of Sydney, and, in fact, everyone else, to see the " Diadem" steaming up the harbour. It was nearly three years since a British man-o'-war of her size had entered Sydney Harbour, H.M.S. " Europa" being the last visitor of this class. Being so used to the " Royal Arthur," and thinking her a large ship, she looked quite a midget when her junior came in.

December 4th.—At 2.30 p.m., Vice-Admiral Fanshawe came on board to inspect the ship, being received by the Captain and officers and the usual salutes. He passed forward, inspecting the men after mustering everyone by the ledger. Two or three minor details were gone into, not worth mentioning, and at 4 o'clock the Admiral left the ship. At 5 p.m. the ship was prepared for action, prior to her firing being inspected the following day.

December 5th.—At 9.15 a.m., Vice-Admiral Fanshawe came on board, and in company with H.M.S. " Karrakatta" we weighed and proceeded to sea. On account of the sea running heavy, the full programme (made out by the Admiral) was not carried out, only three rounds being fired by each gun (" Karrakatta" firing at a separate target), the Admiral remarking that the firing was very good considering the weather. During the firing the ship was steered from the conning tower and signalmen at war stations. At 12.30 p.m., everything being finished, we made for Sydney, where we arrived at 1.5 p.m., anchoring near Garden Island, the " Karrakatta" following close after us. At 530 p.m., " Archer" and " Karrakatta" asked permission to proceed in execution of previous orders, but owing to some slight error on the " Royal Arthur's" part, it was refused, and we all thought we should have another night in Sydney, but at 6 p.m. the signal was made: " ' Archer' and ' Karrakatta' proceed in execution of previous orders." Up came the anchor, and at last we were on our way to England. Being anchored at a remote part of the bay, we could not see the other ships, hence no cheering; but nevertheless we had one from a party of excursionists as we were passing Watson's Bay. About 6.30 p.m. we parted company with the " Karrakatta," she heading north while we steered south, and so began our journey to England.

Fine weather favoured us until the 10th, when we experienced some heavy rollers, ship lurching from 20° to 31°, this weather lasting till next day, when the wind and sea shifted to the beam. About 12.30 p.m. a large sea struck us on the port beam, doing considerable damage to boats, stanchions, and gear inboard, and lifting a large ventilator weighting about 12 cwt., and laying it in the waterways as though it had been a feather. Fortunately no serious damage was done nor anyone hurt, although the helmsman, quartermaster, and signalman had a narrow escape from falling gear. The weather remained squally, and it was considered advisable, after signalling Break Sea Island, West Australia, to put into Albany, where we anchored at 7 p.m. on the 14th.

After having spent a well-earned " all night in," we prepared ship for coaling, and hardly had we finished when the lighters were alongside, and we were busy with " black diamonds." Well, they have earned their name, as I believe this is about the dirtiest and worst coaling we have had during this commission, although the Western Australians are well before the Sydney people in the way of getting coal into a ship. Once they start, they will get a few hundred tons in before they want their " smoke O," whereas the Sydney colliers are practically all " smoke O."

At 2.15 p.m. we had taken our 200 tons in; we had taken rather long, on account of not being able to stow the stuff away. Now came the time for our usual " water carnival," and no matter where you went, on deck or down below, could be found the dust of the precious stuff.

Having nothing further to do at Albany we weighed, and proceeded to sea at 4 p.m.

During the short trip from Albany to Freemantle, the weather was a bit bad, and the ship rolled very heavily, compelling us to stop and batten down, and causing the ship's company much unpleasantness.

On December 17th we sighted Western Australia again and were outside Freemantle at 12 o'clock, when a pilot came alongside and we proceeded, arriving at the buoy in Swan River at 1.27 p.m. At 3.30 p.m. we had another small dash of coaling, but only 55 tons this time; at 5.30 we were finished. Here we stopped until the 19th, when at 6 p.m. we slipped the buoy and proceeded to sea.

Nothing interesting occurred until Christmas Day, the 25th, which was a splendid day, and one which would have been appreciated in harbour.

In the forenoon divine service was held, and after everything was finished, sport commenced. A young able seaman, well-known in two or three ships of the Australian station as " Kroojer," dressed up and caused considerable amusement, both to the officers and ship's company. Afternoon, " nappers." A concert was arranged and carried out in the evening, and some of our well-known singers gave items, including Townley, E.R.A.; Corporal Ashforth, R.M.L.I., and others, being accompanied by the late Minstrel parties, bones, and Littlejohn on the mandoline. Everything passed off lovely, and we enjoyed a very good night. At 7 p.m. sighted Christmas Island. So ended our fourth Christmas on board this ship.

On December 27th, we came in sight of Batavia, Java, where at 12.5 p.m. we saluted the Netherland colours with twenty-one guns, and the Commodore of the Dutch Fleet with nine guns. Fort returned the salute with twenty-one, and the Dutch man-of-war " Noningin Regentes" returning nine.

Here we made fast to a buoy at 12.10. The following Dutch men-of-war were in harbour:—" Noningin Regentes" (flag), " Holland," " Keoter," " Gelderland," and " Noordbrabant." The Dutch Commodore visited the ship on the 28th, and was saluted with eleven guns on leaving.

On the 29th we received 175 tons of coal. At 9.45 a. m. we had a visit from the Dutch Vice-Admiral, and he received a salute of fifteen guns on leaving.

Nothing of importance can be said of Batavia, only as the headquarters of the Dutch East Indies Station.

At 6.30 a.m., on December 30th, we weighed and proceeded to sea; the Dutch man-of-war " Gelderland" following close behind, but she turned, and proceeded back in harbour as soon as we were clear.

Drills, etc., were the order of the day, until Thursday, January 7th, at 9 a.m., found us snug at the buoy at Colombo, Ceylon.

On the 8th we took in 178 tons of coal, followed by the usual " water carnival."

At one o'clock, on January 9th, we sighted H.M.S. " Scylla" homeward bound, with the crew of H.M.S. " Mildura" from Australia.

Of course, here, everyone is anxious to hear of the war scare, as it would affect the ships homeward bound.

The Dutch man-of-war " Friesland" arrived, and saluted the British Flag with twenty-one guns on the 12th, port returning same. This is the ship that took President Kruger from Capetown.

At 9.40 a.m., on the 13th, H.M.S. " Scylla" weighed and proceeded, " Archer" cheering her out, which was well rendered and replied to.

At 6.15 p.m., on the 14th, we weighed and proceeded, the " Friesland" following us out of harbour, but bound for Batavia.

Nothing of importance occurred until Saturday (23rd), when we arrived at Aden. Here we found H.M. ships " Perseus," " Pomone," and " Mohawk," the American gunboat " Don Juan de Austria" (one of the vessels captured from the Spaniards), and the Italian cruiser " Colombo." At 2.30 p.m. we made fast to the buoys and broke the Seniors officers " burgee." At 8 p.m. H.M.S. " Mohawk" proceeded to sea.

On the 24th, at 11 a.m., the United States transport " Kilpatrick" arrived bound for Manila.

On the 25th we coaled ship, taking in 200 tons. At 5 p.m. H.M.S. " Perseus" weighed and proceeded.

On Tuesday (26th), at 5.50 a.m., the Italian cruiser " Galilie" arrived and made fast to a buoy. At 5.30 p.m. we weighed and proceeded, being cheered out of harbour by the " Don Juan de Austria," " Pomone," and " Galilie."

Up to the present this is the best send off we have had. No sooner had our anchor left the ground, than Brother Jonathan's boys gave three fine ringing cheers, and were well-responded to, followed by the " Pomone" and " Galilie," each ship at the same time hoisting signals which when read meant, " Wish you a pleasant voyage," which was replied to by " Thank you." Here were two ships from two of the finest nations represented, cheering, not a low groan, but a fine ringing cheer. When one sees and hears these things, one can well realise how amity is increasing between England and other great powers.

In the early hours of the morning of the 27th, a battleship and two torpedo-boat destroyers were observed, about two miles on our port beam, and although they showed no colours, there was no mistaking them—one could easily see that they were Russians proceeding to the Far East.

About eight o'clock, on the 27th, another torpedo-boat destroyer was seen off our starboard bow, in company with one of the Russian Volunteer Fleet steamers, which passed quite close.

On Sunday afternoon, January 31st, met and communicated with H.M.S. " Diana," which was bound for the Far East.

Heavy gun practice was the evolution for Monday, February 1st, in the Gulf of Suez. After completing, we proceeded for Suez, where we arrived at 12.50 a.m. on February 2nd, and anchored. Lying at anchor here is a large Russian cruiser, " Oslabya," four destroyers, and a Volunteer Fleet steamer.

At 2 a.m. the American man-of-war " Machias" arrived and anchored. At 8 a.m. saluted the Egyptian Ensign with twenty-one guns, fort returning salute of twenty-one guns. At 8.10 a.m. we saluted Russian Rear-Admiral with thirteen guns; Russian man-of-war returning thirteen guns. At 9 a.m. we weighed and proceeded through the Canal, anchoring at Ismailia at 4.30 p.m.

At 6 a.m., on the 3rd, we got under weigh for Port Said; went through the painful necessity of " gearing up" about eight times, but arrived at Port Said all correct at 2 p.m. Here we found the French man-ofwar " Sully," and the American " Machias."

On Thursday, February 4th, at 7 a.m., the French cruiser " Sully" weighed and proceeded through the canal. At 8 a.m. the American gunboat " Machais" sailed for Alexandria. We coaled ship, taking in 156 tons.

At 7 a.m. on the 5th our old friend, " Don Juan de Austria" (American), arrived and made fast next berth to us.

At 8 a.m. on the 6th we weighed and proceeded for Gibraltar, the " Don Juan" and the British Consulate making the signal, " Wish you a pleasant voyage." Arriving outside the breakwater, we stopped engines and saluted the Egyptian flag with twenty-one guns, the shore battery returning the salute.

Nothing of interest occurred until, at 3.50 a.m. on Thursday, 11th, we sighted and reported ourselves to the Castella at Malta. Here we expected to be detained, but no signal being made in reply to our name, we proceeded for Gibraltar.

On we went with a contented mind until Monday, February 15th, we sighted a Danish steamer, and we signalled to her, asking if war was declared, and to the surprise of all she answered, " Yes," and also told us that a battle had been fought between Russia and Japan off Port Arthur on the 9th. We thanked her for the news, and once more went on our way to Gibraltar, where we arrived on the 6th and made fast to the New Mole at 11 a.m. Coaled ship the same day, taking in 140 tons. Here we found the " Renown" (awaiting her relief from England—the " Cornwallis"), the " Isis," and the training ship " Calliope."

At 4.40 p.m. on the 17th, H.M.S. " Leander" arrived from England en route to Malta, and made fast to Mole. In the afternoon " Calliope" and " Leander" left, and at 4 p.m. we cast off from the Mole and proceeded for Plymouth.

At 4.30 a.m. on the 21st (Sunday) we sighted the Channel Fleet en route to Gibraltar.

At 7.45 a.m. on Tuesday, the 23rd, we were at anchor in Plymouth Sound. We saluted the Commander-inChief with fifteen guns, which was responded to by seven guns on shore. We were not detained long at Plymouth, leaving at 3 p.m. for Sheerness, where we arrived on the 24th.

After arriving at Sheerness we were detailed to carry out steam trial previous to paying off. Having carried this out satisfactorily, we were busy getting our ammunition out, as we were ordered to arrive at Chatham by 2.30 p.m., and as we had plenty of shell and powder cases to get out, we had no time to spare. Anyhow, we arrived at Chatham punctual to time.

March 25th.—And now I must bid adieu to all as we go on our respective leaves in batches (new system); and to all who are interested in the Navy, and in this ship in particular, and have read this log, I must say farewell.

R. G. BRYN,

2nd Yeo. of Sigs.

RECORD OF FOOTBALL TEAM.

During the season the " Archer" was practically the best team on the station, having won 14, lost 4 and drawn 1.

RECORD OF CRICKET MATCHES.

DISTANCES FROM SYDNEY TO CHATHAM.

Distance travelled during commission, 67,000 miles.